Jump to content

Phantom01Pathfinder

Members
  • Posts

    398
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Posts posted by Phantom01Pathfinder

  1. :omg: more pics please!!!

     

    so you put a 12.5 wide tire on stock wheels...thats interesting :scratchhead: who did the install for you?

     

    i am assuming your running stock gears correct? should you re-gear since you running a tire thats so much bigger then stock? when im cruizing at 70mph i think i am at 2250-2500rpm. havent gone 70mph in a while tho :lol:

     

    Even tho your speedo says 70mph...if my calculations are correct...your actually going 84mph.

     

    New tire diameter (35")/Old tire diameter (29") x speed (70mph) = corrected speed (84mph) But i cant see going 84mph at 2k.

     

    Please correct me if i am wrong...

  2. And its when I want the bigger tires I need a rim with a negitive backspace so it can clear, right?

    that is correct...negative backspacing pushed the wheel out future from the strut

     

    there are countless lift questions all over this forum, so you shouldnt have a problem getting an answer!

     

    and :welcome: to the family

  3.  

    And Phantom01, what modification did you have to do to the ES3000's?

     

    Thanks.

     

    The eyelets on the tops and bottoms were too big so i bought i believe 5/8in diameter copper tubing to press into the shock mounts. Those worked for the tops, but on the bottoms i used garden hose type material because the 5/8 copper tubing didnt fit over the studs on the bottoms. The garden hose type material i used on the bottom, i have no idea what the size was, just found it laying around the garage and it ended up working...

  4. i run with mine unlocked the majority of the time. lock them every once in a while and when on the trail. my factory boots ripped within weeks of installing the lift. I upgraded to Rockford Constant Velocity boots and they've held up so far...(fingers crossed!) :)

  5. My last set of tires I had was the Geolanders AT/S. Actually still have them on the factory rims. This is definately the way to go. Good all around tires for all seasons, and doesnt affect mpgs. Ill be the 5th to agree to this brand. Currently i have the Goodyear Duratracs and i love them, but i dont drive my pathy everyday...Id get an AT if it was my daily driver

  6. i got 16x8 from 4wheelparts.com with -3.75bs and i only rub slightly in reverse full-lock right and left...even tho they took 7 weeks to get...it was worth it. and only cost me $300. I personally like how they stick out a little more then stock...it looks more :angry: .... :tongue:

     

    i agree with xplorx4...get 16x8

  7. So the other day while i was at the fair grounds, I saw this lifted TJ. The owner told me about how he bought it and that it was a theft recovery and he got it for $8500. I do believe it was an '05. He said he has $14k in upgrades on it including suspension, wheels, tires, fenders, skids, tire carrier etc. He told me he takes it out to MOAB every so often. This guy had to be in his early 60's too. Some of this seemed far fetched but i just listened. He then asked what i got and i told him an '01 Nissan Pathfinder with a 2in lift, wheels, tires, magnaflow exhaust, k&n, missing link, and a front skid. He then proceeded to tell me i need to buy a Jeep :rofl: so that i can go to the Badlands in Attica to go offroad...I politely laughed (in my head) and said I was just there this July and my Pathfinder got me where i needed to go. :itsallgood:

     

    Just thought i would share this story with everybody.

    • Like 2
  8. Then SAVE for a little longer. I'm not telling you to spend the extra couple hundred $ for the hell of it. I've been building trucks for years and I'm telling you from personal experience- "You WILL hate life when your @!*% fails b/c you couldn't afford to do it all at once". If you think the couple hundred is too expensive now, think about what it's going to be like when the new springs work, but you find out one of the other parts you should've done at the same time goes out a month later.... only at that point it's not just the couple hundred $$$ anymore! It's the cost of the labor to take off and put on what you already paid for (probably 4 hours at $50/hr)... oh, and then hopefully it didn't cause something else extra to break. So now a couple hundred turns into EASILY a few hundred.

     

    -JUST SAYING!

    I second what mr07 is saying also. Save until you can get it all done at once. I piece mealed mine together and it cost me an extra $100-150 labor. I put new struts on my pathy 3 months before i got the lift...I should have just did it all at once.

     

    If anything use the money you are setting aside for wheels and/or tires and get all the necessary hardware for the lift...struts, OEM hardware, coils, camber bolts etc. You can always drive around on your stock wheels/tires for a while before buying new ones...I drove on mine for 2 months before i could afford wheels and tires :lol:

  9. Hi everyone! just joined looking to try some repairs/maintenance myself on my '01. Went and looked at the GSP brand from Advance, looked pretty solid as mentioned. Is there a difference between AWd and 4X4 axles? The counter guy kept saying these were AWD, not sure what the difference is, if any. Would like to try them for the online price and earlier endorsement, does anyone have a link on how to change these out? Was wondering if there are some other maintenance items I might as well do while in there.

    Dont by the GSP one if you have a lift, ill pretty much gurantee that the boot will tear :lol: There is no difference between the AWD and 4x4 axle. What you need to do to change it out is jake it up, use jack stands please!...Then take the wheel off, if you have auto hubs you need to take the dust cap off, then take off the snap ring. The snap ring is not that hard to take out, but difficult to see. After that, unbolt the lower A-arm, 1 bolt in front and 2 in back. Carefully lower the A-arm down as not to ruin the balljoint. I set mine on blocks of wood so that its just not hanging there. Unbolt the 6 bolts that connect the CV shaft to the front diff, they are grouped in pairs. Then bang the hell out of it with a hammer. If youve never taken a CV out before, its going to be rusted/stuck on pretty good even with all bolts removed. PB bolt blaster works well for this. Make sure to hold onto the shaft when banging on it with a hammer. The shaft should then fall down, then just slide it out of the hub, pushing towards the passanger side. Then install new shaft opposite of removal. Torque everything to spec.

     

    Hope this helps.

×
×
  • Create New...