Phantom01Pathfinder
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Posts posted by Phantom01Pathfinder
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Is there anyway to lock the rear hatch manually when the battery is removed??
And i am not talking about the battery in the key fob, im mean the actual battery in the engine compartment?
You may be asking why not just install the battery and lock it...its a long story haha
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i recently got this code too about 3 wks ago. I bought a new vacuum control valve bypass valve...at least i hope i got the right part. part number 14920+A. I havent changed it out yet but ill post back with results if it works...
if that doesnt work then ill probably look into the charcoal canister
Ive been getting terrible mpg's because of this code...about 12mpg
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ok just thought i'd ask
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Wow you guys really run your tires at 40psi?...or there abouts...if you run pressure that high wont it wear out the center tread blocks faster???
Ive got mine about 28-30psi. It has a nice solid footprint...about 1/8" from the edge of the tread blocks
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On the upside....
The rumor we will get the Patrol here in the US might become reality to fill the hole from the loss of the Pathy.
That would be so great if the Patrol got here!!
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Here are some available from Summit racing, both single and dual filters:
this is going to be a dumb question, but what is the benefit of having dual filters?? better filtration? and every oil change you have to buy 2 filters...
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Dang man i can't wait to see the final product!!!
I hope you do a very detailed step by step, eventually i would like to do a SAS
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Very true, I think my rubber issue was due to no crush tubes being fitted when lift kit was installed by local garage.
And Phantom your not crazy or seeing illusions, The actual frame for the mount is bent, the bolt(pin) is perfectly ok.
Nissan saved two ounces of weight to cause this.
You would probably have to remove the brake drum backing plate to get a photo.
Hope this helps.
thanks davo...its been a while since ive looked under my truck to figure this out, but good to know others are designed the same way. got to deal with a EVAP leak...hmmm
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BTW, according to the CARB site, it looks like 96-97's have just two cats (attached to the exhaust manifolds) and 98 and later have 4 cats.
I knew i wasnt when i counted 4 underneath...
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Pathfinder has 2 of them, your mechanic is a moron.
OEM ones are $560-ish each; aftermarket ones are significantly cheaper.
I do believe the R50 have 4 cats...a pre-cat and post-cat on each bank...
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Actually he does ! I yell at the dogs all the time for letting him on the table and counters. I will have to try and catch it on video for you.
So i happened to be watching tv last night, and saw your video of your son on Inside Edition. When i saw it, i thought to myself, "I saw this on NPORA first!!!"
I instantly thought about if you gave tv/news shows permission to use it...
Just thought id let you know...
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i know this is off subject...but dang youve got 250,000 miles on your '01? You must drive everywhere!!
ive considered getting OEM bushing, but others here can probably tell you that poly will be better...im sure you'll pay more up front but might last longer...
i havent decided yet either...
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glad to see someone try a new lift supplier
keep us posted with updates...and maybe an offroad pic or two
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I think XPLORx4 means that because the R50 has engine mounts that are on the body, when you add another inch to the body lift you're adding more angle to the drive shaft/CV joint relationship. The CV joint stays where it is but the engine goes up with the body lift & therefore increases the angle that the axle has to take to reach the CV joint. You can only go so far with drive shaft angle before you WILL wreck the CV joint. Don't forget, if the wheel drops into say a deep hole, the angle on the axle in relation to the CV joint will be even more severe the higher the engine is moved up away from the CV joint. Also the camber will go to @!*% as well the higher you raise the body, although this can be fixed. as XPLOx4 said, this is why people usually do a sub frame drop for anything higher than a 2" lift on the R50.
@devonianwalk, just out of interest why did you remove the spacer?
Its not actually a body lift since the R50 is a unibody... (i think you understand how it works, just didnt explain it correctly) the spacer just increasing the angle on the CV, in turn giving more lift
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That right there, thats embarrassing.
-Kyle
dont worry about it
sometimes i search for a topic for 10-15min and end up changing words around and looking through 20 pages or so before i find my answer...
and i understand that sometimes you just want an immediate answer instead of wasting time looking, but more then likely you'll find more useful information (in addition to what you were originally looking for) when searching.
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just do a little searching and you will find the answer...
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18663
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Dang you have a 2000 with only 65k???? Thats awesome!!!
This is the best source for information on Pathfinders!!! Check out members rides to see mods and stories...
Welcome to the family
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Im not a Michigander"er" haha, but i am close enough!
Where abouts in the north do you plan on wheeling?
Welcome to the Family
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Yah this is definitely my favorite pathfinder pic for TOTM.......EVER!
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You shouldn't have any problems with 15" rims clearing the calipers. I replaced my tri-spoke 16" wheels with some 15" Pro Comp rims. Plus, 15" tires tend to be a little cheaper (which is why I went down a size).
did you grind down your calipers?
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got to vote for stalker
nothing beats a pic of a pathfinder pulling a jeep
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Just go down to your local Discount Tire and buy 'em. They have the best prices, at least in my area they do.
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My drive use to be 12 miles, now its only 8.
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Wix filter and mobile1 full syn
a Wix filter??? ive never heard of that
Door locks...
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted · Edited by Phantom01Pathfinder
I wasnt sure if that function still worked even with the battery disconnected...ok thanks
And i cant believe i didnt think of that...haha