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Phantom01Pathfinder

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Posts posted by Phantom01Pathfinder

  1. When you turn the key to open the window on the hatch it locks the hatch its self. So just open the window then close it.

    I wasnt sure if that function still worked even with the battery disconnected...ok thanks :)

     

    And i cant believe i didnt think of that...haha

  2. Is there anyway to lock the rear hatch manually when the battery is removed??

     

    And i am not talking about the battery in the key fob, im mean the actual battery in the engine compartment?

     

    You may be asking why not just install the battery and lock it...its a long story haha

  3. i recently got this code too about 3 wks ago. I bought a new vacuum control valve bypass valve...at least i hope i got the right part. part number 14920+A. I havent changed it out yet but ill post back with results if it works...

     

    if that doesnt work then ill probably look into the charcoal canister :/

     

    Ive been getting terrible mpg's because of this code...about 12mpg

  4. On the upside....

    The rumor we will get the Patrol here in the US might become reality to fill the hole from the loss of the Pathy.

    That would be so great if the Patrol got here!! :aok:

  5. Very true, I think my rubber issue was due to no crush tubes being fitted when lift kit was installed by local garage. :angry:

    And Phantom your not crazy or seeing illusions, The actual frame for the mount is bent, the bolt(pin) is perfectly ok.

    :deadhorse: Nissan saved two ounces of weight to cause this.

    You would probably have to remove the brake drum backing plate to get a photo.

     

     

    Hope this helps.

     

    thanks davo...its been a while since ive looked under my truck to figure this out, but good to know others are designed the same way. got to deal with a EVAP leak...hmmm

  6. Actually he does ! I yell at the dogs all the time for letting him on the table and counters. I will have to try and catch it on video for you.

     

    So i happened to be watching tv last night, and saw your video of your son on Inside Edition. When i saw it, i thought to myself, "I saw this on NPORA first!!!"

     

    I instantly thought about if you gave tv/news shows permission to use it...

     

    Just thought id let you know...

  7. I think XPLORx4 means that because the R50 has engine mounts that are on the body, when you add another inch to the body lift you're adding more angle to the drive shaft/CV joint relationship. The CV joint stays where it is but the engine goes up with the body lift & therefore increases the angle that the axle has to take to reach the CV joint. You can only go so far with drive shaft angle before you WILL wreck the CV joint. Don't forget, if the wheel drops into say a deep hole, the angle on the axle in relation to the CV joint will be even more severe the higher the engine is moved up away from the CV joint. Also the camber will go to @!*% as well the higher you raise the body, although this can be fixed. as XPLOx4 said, this is why people usually do a sub frame drop for anything higher than a 2" lift on the R50.

     

    @devonianwalk, just out of interest why did you remove the spacer?

    Its not actually a body lift since the R50 is a unibody... (i think you understand how it works, just didnt explain it correctly) the spacer just increasing the angle on the CV, in turn giving more lift

  8. That right there, thats embarrassing.

     

    -Kyle

     

    dont worry about it B)

     

    sometimes i search for a topic for 10-15min and end up changing words around and looking through 20 pages or so before i find my answer...

     

    and i understand that sometimes you just want an immediate answer instead of wasting time looking, but more then likely you'll find more useful information (in addition to what you were originally looking for) when searching.

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