Phantom01Pathfinder
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Posts posted by Phantom01Pathfinder
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Well i got my second recall notice yesterday
Looks like ill be taking it in soon before the snow falls...I pray that i just need the rust proofing done...
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I had my power valves done back in '07 and the dealer charged me $200. I even got to go back and watch the mechanic for a bit, usually they are real sticklers about that...
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sounds like struts topping out to me. It happens to me every once in a while when driving too fast over any type of hill or dip in the road...but i could be wrong...
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Phantom01Pathfinder
Cloudy sunset...if thats possible
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Wow that is a great write up!!!
I wish i had the time and motivation you have!
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looking good!
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dang that looks nice! Im really liking the paint colors and frontier wheels
how difficult was it to rhino line the bottom half...because i considered doing part of my pathy...maybe not half the truck but a little lower
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I still love that I'm driving a PATHFINDER not a Jeep
Amen to that!
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Dowser explained it better then me...the subframe holds your differential, CV shafts, and suspension in place.
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No because our style Pathfinder's are a unibody, so this "lift" drops the front subframe 4in. In the rear you would have to get longer coil springs to get close to equal height with the front.
Its called a subframe drop or SFD. Some members on here have done the 2" lift from AC and combined it with the 4" SFD from krypton fab. to get a total of 6" of lift.
But remember, when you change something like suspension, its a domino effect. One thing effects another, that affects another and so on. (i.e. longer shocks, brakes lines, steering extension, CV boots, panhard rod drop)
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Check this out...
http://www.krfabs.com/product_detail.php?productID=2
And there is loads of info on this site...
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01silvapathy has it right: intake, exhaust, plenum spacer, and cams is about it. Unless you got a bunch of cash you can custom build all of it
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What i was reading i thought was referring to the part that the transfer case is lubricated by a pump that is turned on by the wheels spinning but since you unlock the hub, the transfer case is no longer being lubricated.
What you are saying is true, that is if you have the transfer case that is the knob (which is the All-mode 4x4 on just LE models) and not the lever. I dont know the type of transfer case the All-mode is, but the manual lever one is a TX10 i do believe. Other members have mentioned about the 4x4 light coming on on the dash, but ive never had this happen. if it is a concern just lock the hubs if going on long distance trips. ive had my hubs for a while now and drive with them unlocked most of the time, but WARN says that once a month you should lock them and drive around just to make sure everything mechanically is still working, and lubricated. But now that i say that, i know this week my 4x4 dash light will come on,
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thats great
so are you going to buy both motors? hehehe -
whats the status on your motor swap?
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You are correct in stating that a 245/65/17 is taller.
The first number (245) is the tread width in mm. The second number (65) is the aspect ratio (height of sidewall) , which is % of sidewall height to the width. and the last number is rim diameter as you already know.
Hope that helps.
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yah you should be ok. my Goodyears are 245/75/16 and i think they look great!
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Here is my '01 right after the AC lift...I ran stock wheels and tires i think for 2-3 months
notice how the front is slightly higher then the rear. This was back at the end of February...
This is how she sits currently...new wheels and bigger tires...settled some
And this was with a bunch of tools and equipment in the back...maybe a couple hundred lbs worth
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OH no that perfectly good fender!!
just kidding. I think you did a nice job on cutting them and give you lots of credit for doing something not many would attempt, but i personally dont like the look of how high the front fender is now. I didnt think the front flexed that much...Did you cut all that off for a possible SAS in the future??? 
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Sweet, super clean '02. But it is missing something...hmm...ah ha...A lift and bigger tires!!!
Welcome
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They will all rattle...half of mine are off and some still remain...been rattling for the past 25k miles, only sitting at stop lights in gear, if in neutral the rattle goes away...Always plan on taking them off but...you know how that goes...
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Also, today I noticed the front driver's side combination lamp housing has what seems to me an excessive amount of condensation build up. The passenger side was free of condensation, as were the headlights. Does this look normal?
Mine use to do that too. Same side and everything, but mine was probably caused cuz it had a hairline crack in it. Maybe check for cracks
I just took a blow dryer to dry it out and put some silicone on the crack...no problems so far and that was a year ago... -
Sweet looking rig...reminds me of King
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Gotcha
Ok i have another question. I read somewhere online that when you get bigger tires and dont change gears that the odometer is also off. By that i mean its tacking on miles faster then it should be or slower then it should be...is that correct??? I dont fully understand it...
Low Idle?
in The Garage
Posted
550-600rpm idle doesn't sound like a bad range for idle. My R50 will idle at 1100rpm when first started up...then slowly gets down to 6-700ish rpm.
Are you looking to get the idle higher or???