BlueKrogan

So tonight I just discovered that a running engine isn't the only cause of making the radio's reception eat @!*%. Yes. When I turn on my headlights, the radio's reception suffers. I wish I would've noticed and tested this sooner instead of just jumping to conclusions by solely blaming the running engine.

Cool, thanks for the quick reply! I assume the warning lights (battery, check engine, etc) has a film over them, so I should stick with the white ones for those. The redline on the tach I guess is also colored via film, so if I put a different color like blue for example, it shouldn't conflict with the redline too much, if not at all.

Some of my bulbs are burnt out, like my hazard light button, so while I have it cracked open, I might as well upgrade all the bulbs. Everything is still legible, but it's still somewhat dingy looking, especially compared to modern cars. Yes, I know it's unfair to compare it to modern cars, but if I can modernize these lights, it would be totally cool lol. Anyways... 1) Obligatory "How hard is it?" question. 2) What bulbs would I need for whole thing? I assume the instrument cluster, HVAC controls, and everything else like the defrost/hazard light buttons etc. and gear shifter uses different bulbs from one another. 3) I notice there is a very slight green tint, more so with the instrument cluster. Is this due to the bulbs themselves, or is there like a green film overlay? I might go green just to be different, but if I put white bulbs for example, will there still be a greenish tint? 4) I've heard of hotspots due to LEDs having a narrow spread of light. Do LEDs with a wider light spread like a traditional bulb exist? I have the curvy dash if it matters. I saw someone here with a square dash put blue LEDs and it looked really clean.

Is the part that breaks a detachable part at least?

So I saw numerous topics on this, and since I was inspired and an avid coffee drinker while driving, I grabbed an R50 center console from the junkyard; I lucked out on the color too since it matches great with the grey interior. I somewhat know what lies ahead of me (such as moving the handbrake 2" or so towards the driver side) so I have a few questions that I didn't see any answers to, so here it goes: 1) Unfortunately, I don't have a manual transmission, (it would've been soooooo easy to just slip the R50's manual shift boot over the shifter) so I grabbed the R50's automatic gear shifter as well, since the WD21's won't sit flush with the trim piece. How hard is it to swap automatic gear shifters? I'm not really comfortable about the idea: if I screw something up, the car will pretty much be immobile. I take it that I'll have to drill new holes to accommodate the new bolt down pattern? I also hear that the wiring is different too, so on the electronic side of things, it isn't plug and play? 2) Does the WD21 drivetrain selector shifter handle twist off? I took the R50's because why not lol, but when I tried to take mine off (in order to take the boot off) it wouldn't budge. It is just stuck and caked on due to its age? I'm really afraid that I'll break something if I keep applying pressure. 3) I got this weird idea to bolt the rear portion down: since we have to remove the seat belt buckles to make it flush with the floor as possible, what if I drill holes on the bottom of the console which will line up with the holes where the buckles bolt down, and bolt the seat belt buckles through the console itself to the floor? Smart or stupid? I hear people cutting pseudo slits so it sits flush with the buckles' mounts, but I'm really trash at measuring and cutting 4) The mounting bracket where the front of the WD21 console screws in, do I need to drill holes in the R50 console to mount to that bracket? I take it that the mounting bracket should be covered to give me an idea of how far foward the R50 console should be placed. 5) I see that the R50 has a 2nd power outlet at the rear of the console where the 2nd set of cup holders are. It's not really a priority for me and I can live without it, but out of curiosity, has anyone actually got it powered up and ready to use? I'm sorry for all the questions and nitpicks, I love this SUV so much and I want everything to look factory/flush as possible, instead of a hack job. Also, if it matters, mine is the curvy dash.

It's the curvy dash; the pins on the bottom hinges look pretty difficult to mess with. Would removing the corner edge piece of the dash next to the glove box (where the passenger window defrost vent is) do me any favors?

So upon further inspection, the climate controls side of the cable is still hooked, so it's from the firewall side I'm going to have to fix my glovebox latch first so I can even open it to have better access lol

So clearly a mechanism has broke, so when I'm pulling the latch, it won't open regardless if it is locked or not. So I know something needs to be replaced, probably the whole latch assembly. Anyways, any suggestions on how to approach this? Do I just get a screwdriver and pry it open? What's the worst case scenario if I go this route? Would the latch itself just break? Also, in some cases manufacturers often reuse certain parts across multiple models, are there any other Nissan models that share the Pathfinder's glove box latch? Seeing if I can making tracking one down a lot easier, and hopefully cheaper.

So the cable on my temperature control needs to be replaced, as once you set it to hot, you gotta go through the glove box to change it back to manually move the cable I think. The guy explained it to me, but I digress. Anyways, so this is what mine looks like: https://i.etsystatic.com/21086180/r/il/18ee0a/3225733434/il_794xN.3225733434_c0o3.jpg I was thinking it might be easier to just buy a new one as looking for the specific cable and replacing it might be tedious and difficult. (correct me if I'm wrong) After looking for HVAC controls, I come across this one: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/RWkAAOSwoclizAji/s-l1600.jpg Can anyone explain this one to me? It says it fits the 90-95 gen, but it's obviously different from the one I have as the climate zones seem to be electronically controlled via buttons instead of a slider. Is this off a higher trim model? Could I put this in mine? Is it just plug and play, or is there additional work required to make it operable?

Nope, when I rev the engine the static is pretty much the same.

Toronto. It's been regularly rust proofed , so I've been lucky. I'm going to take it to get rust proofed, but I don't know if I should go Krown or Rust Check. The previous owner told me where he got it done they used something that was thicker, and wasn't the thin runny oil. Anyways, so far the general consensus has been the alternator.

So I just swapped out the Pioneer single din that it came with my Pathfinder for my Pioneer double din touch screen; it looks really nice with the dash, but I digress. When the engine is off, the reception is crystal clear, however once the engine is running it is a totally different story. This also happened with the single din head unit that it came with it as well, although the one I installed isn't as bad. I checked the head unit's ground wire, and regardless if it's grounded or not, it literally doesn't make a difference: I still get crystal clear reception with the engine off and static/white noise with the engine running. Certain stations are unaffected as they are pretty well known to transmit powerful signals, but the ones that are affected still work pretty good on any other car and even worked fine when I had this head unit on my previous vehicle; it's like the affected stations don't transmit a signal powerful enough to combat this issue. I don't know what else to do, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Oh hi! My first car was a manual '05 Altima, but that met an unfortunate end this past April. I pretty much started working on that car during COVID and learned a lot of DIY along the way. I'm nowhere near an expert, but it did help me gain confidence on working on cars. Anyways, that car could be a major pain in the ass to work on (looking at you, door handle that needed to be replaced) and told myself that the next car will be an American. ...Well here I am yet again with a Nissan for my 2nd and current car. I had buyers remorse when I bought my '94 Pathfinder SE a few weeks ago, but that quickly disappeared as I already love this little tank! Everyone else loves it too: my mom wanted to trade; while driving, one guy in the next lane gave me a thumbs up, and someone already asked if I'm interested in selling it lol I do wish it was a manual transmission, but the 1st Gens are pretty rare, and I'd be remiss if I didn't jump at the opportunity to buy it while I can! The auto transmission shifts pretty smooth and it's been regularly serviced, so I'm satisfied anyways lol Anyways I digress; I hope to fit in here and have some fun learning from all of you!