BlueKrogan

Is the part that breaks a detachable part at least?

So I saw numerous topics on this, and since I was inspired and an avid coffee drinker while driving, I grabbed an R50 center console from the junkyard; I lucked out on the color too since it matches great with the grey interior. I somewhat know what lies ahead of me (such as moving the handbrake 2" or so towards the driver side) so I have a few questions that I didn't see any answers to, so here it goes: 1) Unfortunately, I don't have a manual transmission, (it would've been soooooo easy to just slip the R50's manual shift boot over the shifter) so I grabbed the R50's automatic gear shifter as well, since the WD21's won't sit flush with the trim piece. How hard is it to swap automatic gear shifters? I'm not really comfortable about the idea: if I screw something up, the car will pretty much be immobile. I take it that I'll have to drill new holes to accommodate the new bolt down pattern? I also hear that the wiring is different too, so on the electronic side of things, it isn't plug and play? 2) Does the WD21 drivetrain selector shifter handle twist off? I took the R50's because why not lol, but when I tried to take mine off (in order to take the boot off) it wouldn't budge. It is just stuck and caked on due to its age? I'm really afraid that I'll break something if I keep applying pressure. 3) I got this weird idea to bolt the rear portion down: since we have to remove the seat belt buckles to make it flush with the floor as possible, what if I drill holes on the bottom of the console which will line up with the holes where the buckles bolt down, and bolt the seat belt buckles through the console itself to the floor? Smart or stupid? I hear people cutting pseudo slits so it sits flush with the buckles' mounts, but I'm really trash at measuring and cutting 4) The mounting bracket where the front of the WD21 console screws in, do I need to drill holes in the R50 console to mount to that bracket? I take it that the mounting bracket should be covered to give me an idea of how far foward the R50 console should be placed. 5) I see that the R50 has a 2nd power outlet at the rear of the console where the 2nd set of cup holders are. It's not really a priority for me and I can live without it, but out of curiosity, has anyone actually got it powered up and ready to use? I'm sorry for all the questions and nitpicks, I love this SUV so much and I want everything to look factory/flush as possible, instead of a hack job. Also, if it matters, mine is the curvy dash.

It's the curvy dash; the pins on the bottom hinges look pretty difficult to mess with. Would removing the corner edge piece of the dash next to the glove box (where the passenger window defrost vent is) do me any favors?

So upon further inspection, the climate controls side of the cable is still hooked, so it's from the firewall side I'm going to have to fix my glovebox latch first so I can even open it to have better access lol

So clearly a mechanism has broke, so when I'm pulling the latch, it won't open regardless if it is locked or not. So I know something needs to be replaced, probably the whole latch assembly. Anyways, any suggestions on how to approach this? Do I just get a screwdriver and pry it open? What's the worst case scenario if I go this route? Would the latch itself just break? Also, in some cases manufacturers often reuse certain parts across multiple models, are there any other Nissan models that share the Pathfinder's glove box latch? Seeing if I can making tracking one down a lot easier, and hopefully cheaper.

So the cable on my temperature control needs to be replaced, as once you set it to hot, you gotta go through the glove box to change it back to manually move the cable I think. The guy explained it to me, but I digress. Anyways, so this is what mine looks like: https://i.etsystatic.com/21086180/r/il/18ee0a/3225733434/il_794xN.3225733434_c0o3.jpg I was thinking it might be easier to just buy a new one as looking for the specific cable and replacing it might be tedious and difficult. (correct me if I'm wrong) After looking for HVAC controls, I come across this one: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/RWkAAOSwoclizAji/s-l1600.jpg Can anyone explain this one to me? It says it fits the 90-95 gen, but it's obviously different from the one I have as the climate zones seem to be electronically controlled via buttons instead of a slider. Is this off a higher trim model? Could I put this in mine? Is it just plug and play, or is there additional work required to make it operable?

Nope, when I rev the engine the static is pretty much the same.

Toronto. It's been regularly rust proofed , so I've been lucky. I'm going to take it to get rust proofed, but I don't know if I should go Krown or Rust Check. The previous owner told me where he got it done they used something that was thicker, and wasn't the thin runny oil. Anyways, so far the general consensus has been the alternator.

So I just swapped out the Pioneer single din that it came with my Pathfinder for my Pioneer double din touch screen; it looks really nice with the dash, but I digress. When the engine is off, the reception is crystal clear, however once the engine is running it is a totally different story. This also happened with the single din head unit that it came with it as well, although the one I installed isn't as bad. I checked the head unit's ground wire, and regardless if it's grounded or not, it literally doesn't make a difference: I still get crystal clear reception with the engine off and static/white noise with the engine running. Certain stations are unaffected as they are pretty well known to transmit powerful signals, but the ones that are affected still work pretty good on any other car and even worked fine when I had this head unit on my previous vehicle; it's like the affected stations don't transmit a signal powerful enough to combat this issue. I don't know what else to do, any help would be greatly appreciated.