BlueKrogan

It was bad, both girls in the Accord were in rough shape, especially the one who was in the backseat who took the brunt of the impact. She was practically laying still but still breathing; it's why I counted my lucky stars. Her and I think one other from the CRV were taken to the hospital

Long story short, I was stopped at a red light, heading southbound. The Accord that was heading eastbound was making a left at the intersection, while the CRV was heading westbound. The Accord thought he could make it but ended up cutting off the CRV, which caused him to be t-boned. After they made contact, the 2 cars pretty much spun out, and due to the momentum the Accord spun backwards right into me I believe both parties were trying to make the yellow light. It was one of those things where you see it happening in slow motion but in real time at simultaneously. I was pretty conflicted on how I felt because I just got this truck last summer, and not even a year went by and this happened; I was just simply at the wrong place at the wrong time. Rotten luck. I could've been in a much worse situation, since I'm the only one that was lucky enough to drive home; my truck still drives perfectly fine as if nothing happened, so I'm proud of it lol The girl who was in the back of the Accord...yeah, Godspeed, I hope she's doing alright, which is why I can't complain. I'm not even mad because it won't solve anything, and I really felt bad for both Honda drivers. Right now, my main concern is getting this fixed, and I'm afraid the insurance might write it off because they might say it will cost more than what it's worth to fix, it's too old, parts are a bitch to find, etc. Regardless, I do plan on keeping this because it would be such a waste to just let it go; plus I had so much stuff that I wanted to do to it. The push bar was both a blessing and a curse: it saved the whole front end and stuff under the hood from crumpling like paper, but it made a deep dent in the hood and misaligned it; the part that wraps around the right headlight is pushed inward as you can see, and scratched the @!*% out a small part of the 1/4 panel above the light. I don't know if the headlight needs realignment, or if that's just the grill or 1/4 panel pushed back, but it still works like a charm The grill is probably done for as well, and obviously the bumper as well. At this point, I won't shed any tears if I lose the push bar. Wish me luck

Alright everyone, super late reply and I hate flooding the board, but instead of making a new topic I'll just post it here. I finally found the culprit of my problem (not that it took me this long to diagnose it; it literally took me a few seconds to figure it out, it's just I didn't have time until now lol) and it is indeed the headlights! Basically I had the handbrake applied and started the truck, and the reception was as clear as day. As soon as I released the headbrake and the headlights switched on, the reception instantly went to the gutter. The only reason I thought it was due to the engine was because of the daytime running lights. So the question I have for everyone is now what do I do? Lol Could aftermarket headlight bulbs be the culprit? I noticed they are pretty bright and look high beams are on, and I'm wondering if they are LEDS and could be contributing to this issue, or if it will persist regardless if incandescent bulbs are installed or not.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/neox-led-bulb-high-power-instrument-panel-led Would these work in the AC switch and Hazard buttons? Would these just swap right in?

Nope, looked everywhere and it's nowhere to be found on the switch. The hardbody was still being made until somewhere around the late 90's/early 00's? I'm wondering if the one I saw is from a '98 or something lol

Man, that sounds like a lot for just a few switches; when you say marker lights, you mean the corner lights next to the headlights? Had my Pathfinder for a year and keep forgetting the signal lights are actually on the bumper lmao The AC switch has those twist off sockets that have the bulb wire that wraps around the socket base: Anyways, I also noticed that some hazard switches from the later model years of the hardbody actually has an easy access to the neo light like the AC switch here instead of being inacessable; I wonder if it's easier to just swap that in and put an LED inside that.

So you have to solder in a resistor as well? What would happen if you don't, would the LED be dimly lit if you turn off the dashlights? On an unrelated note, which bulb does the A/C toggle switch use if I would want to throw in an LED there? 3mm?

So the main lights that illuminate the guage cluster use 194 LEDs, and the rest of them use the smaller 74s: I believe the HVAC controls also uses a 74 bulb. Mine is a 1994 curvy dash, so it uses 5 194 bulbs to illuminate, and uses 194 for the low gas light and the battery light; I'm not sure how many the square dash uses. I just want to do the button switches because of consistency, and they look terrible in comparison to the guage cluster lol. I can't find any info on these switches.

I haven't checked the E-AT and Cruise rocker switches yet, but after inspecting the dimmer, defrost, and hazard light switches, there isn't a light socket that screws out, and it seems like you have to disassemble it to get to the light. Yet for some reason, the A/C label and its button underneath on the HVAC controls has a light that screws out so you could swap in a neox LED. Why didn't they do this for the rest of the buttons lol My hazard button's light is out; what did people actually do back in the day, actually replace the whole thing? Seems kind of wasteful, but I digress lol. Anyways, is it possible to swap/solder in LEDs inside the switches themselves? If so, how would I even begin to disassemble this switch?

Hi, super late reply lol I'm planning on undertaking this console swap, and I'm wondering if you'd figured out the wiring aspect for the automatic shifter. This is the only hurdle that I'm facing.

I just want to comment and say that this is really amazing! The WD21 doesn't look that big, especially on the outside, but damned if that doesn't look comfy with ample room!

I'm thinking of doing my button switches. The HVAC one is easy, but I don't want to spend so much on shipping just for 1 bulb, so I'm wondering are these the ones that usually go in the button switches (hazard lights, defrost, cruise, dimmer, E-AT, etc) and if so, do they use the 3mm, 4mm, or 5mm? https://www.superbrightleds.com/neox-led-bulb-high-power-instrument-panel-led

Mine goes a bit lower than adamzan's photo, but yesterday it was at 1/8. I don't know if it was because it was -25 Celsius, or if the heater is now removing the engine's heat. Holy hell, near 370 km on the clock!

Good news, everyone! So enough was enough, 2 months later I finally decided to do something about this, and I finally got the glove box open! I think I just pulled down on the damned thing, and it just opened up; it all happened so quick that I really didn't have time to process what just happened lmao. My nose got a light tap in the process, but who cares! Anyways, I'm really happy about this because I finally got my heater to work! All that happened was the loop from the end of the cable came off the mechanism that changes the temperature, and all I did was just slip it back on! It actually works perfectly going back and forth, but I'm not even going to touch it again until the warm weather is here, since it's a near 30 year old truck, and I don't trust it to hold lol Anyways, the engine is cold and it's already blowing warm air; I can now finally fully enjoy driving in the winter now! I bought a thermostat thinking that was the problem, but I'm really not too broken up over buying it since the engine temperature only goes a quarter of the way, so it needs to be done regardless.

Yep, that's with the LED. Now another update: the clock and trip screens, I now notice they consistently flicker very slighly every 4-5 seconds, but the main purple dash lights are fine. Any ideas? Alternator? Another update: the clock and trip screen lights were totally fine this morning :s lol

Update: So I just tested the alternator; first I tested the battery in its resting state, and it is showing up as 12V. Good. Now for the moment of truth: after starting the vehicle, I tested the battery, and its output is now 14.5V!! Hallelujah!!

Alright, so stupid question: would the CAN Bus LED lights work for crucial circuits? https://www.superbrightleds.com/194-can-bus-led-rv-light-bulb-5-smd-led-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-85-lumens This one for example says that the power consumption is 3 watts. I was thinking of initially getting these but I made the dumb assumption that an SUV from 1994 didn't have such advanced circuitry, let alone a CAN Bus system lol As you can see, I'm pretty electrically challenged lol

@!*%. It's such a pain in the ass to take everything apart to just replace one bulb, but if it needs to be done, it needs to be done. I'm wondering if I should just revert all the idiot lights back to their original bulbs, except maybe for the cruise (it still works) highbeam (that crisp blue looks nice) and the 4 wheel lock (shouldn't be crucial to its operation) I guess I should change the A/T light back too; I hope the battery won't suffer too much for 2 days as I'm off Wednesday, and I'll have time. Out of curiosity, would those "error free" LEDs help?

So I just realised that you were talking about the alternator light aka the battery light. Now I'm reading that changing that to an LED is a big no no. Should I just change it back to the incandescent bulb?

Which light on the dash is connected to the alternator? For the tire carrier light, wouldn't it still stay on if the contact points are dirty, since in order for the light to turn off the contact points have to form a complete circuit to shut off that light? Anyways, for future reference the curvy dash cluster uses 5 of the 194 sized LED bulbs. These were the ones I used as it has a 360 beam spread: https://www.superbrightleds.com/194-led-boat-and-rv-light-bulb-5-smd-led-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-95-lumens As a bonus, they aren't polarity sensitive, so you don't have to worry about making sure which side should plug in the negative or positive side of the socket. As for the idiot lights, and the trip counter and clock on the corners, they use the 74 sized LED bulbs. For the corner trip and clock screens, I used the 360 beam angle as well since I figured that the light has more surface to cover as opposed to a small warning light graphic. I used these for the clock and trip, and plan on using it for the HVAC controls as well down the road: https://www.superbrightleds.com/74-led-boat-and-rv-light-bulb-3-smd-led-miniature-wedge-retrofit And yes, you are absolutely correct, you MUST match the correct LED color to its respective warning light color, if you want the original warning light color. I put an amber light in the battery light socket as a small experiment, and it came out amber lol. Oh, speaking of which, the battery and low gas warning lights DO NOT use 74's like the rest of the warning lights, they actually use 194's. Again, I used a narrow beam for those (the battery anyways) since it's unnecessary to have a wide spread of light for a warning light.

Alright everyone, I finally did it, and I am pleased with the results, so here it is: In this photo, I had the lights dimmed at the lowest setting to reduce light glare for viewing purposes, so it's pretty vibrant in person. I opted for green for the clock and trip odometer because those bulbs didn't come in purple. I think green and purple look good together, and I matched my double din color scheme (green background screen and purple buttons) to match. HVAC controls and gear shifter are next, and will go green with those. I can't believe how clear the cluster clock is! LOL I did the idiot lights, but I had to switch some of them back to their original bulbs. The low gas light, OD Off light, brake light, and one other (ABS I think) would stay on after starting the engine, although some would either be dim, or flicker a bit. The low gas would be really dim, and would flicker a bit, yet with the stock bulb it wouldn't light at all. (I really don't care that much since there's a fuel gauge to begin with anyways) My Tire Carrier light doesn't work at all, with either bulb when it is ajar. I'm not too broken up over some of the idiot lights not working with LEDs as that was more of a bonus objective for me anyways, but I'm dumbfounded. Maybe because the cluster is nearly 30 years old, and it's not working like it used to? Maybe not enough power is being used up due to the low drawing power of LEDs? I don't know. My only gripe is I wish Nissan would've put 1 or 2 more illumination light bulbs on the bottom or sides, since the temp and gas needles are noticeably dimmer. Seems really odd that all of the illumination lights just run along near the top of the cluster.

1 more question: If I decide to do all the idiot lights, are these all the possible lights my cluster has? This is from a hardbody since I can't find a Pathfinder one, but it's pretty much the same cluster I have. Are there any lights missing from this diagram? It looks like there's room for 1 more indicator beside the 4WD and cruise control lights; I've also seen a tire carrier light before (I assume that's between the ABS and low washer fluid lights) and mine is equipped with one. I just want to get a total inventory count of bulbs (and their respective colors) to order if I decide to go ahead with it. I've seen photos of the back of the cluster, and it seems like not all the circuit board paths are labeled. I'm definitely leaving the turn signal lights alone as I heard that you have to do something extra to not make them blink like mad since it will think you have a light out due to LEDs drawing much less power.

I feel you; I drive a curvy dash and I like it, but yeah the square dash matches the WD21 square body perfectly IMO As for your question, I've seen a video on youtube where a guy updated his square dash to the '94-'95 curvy dash, so I think they should be interchangeable. As far as I know, the hardbody shares the exact same dash (both square and curvy) as the pathfinders, so you should be fine to pull parts from a hardbody. I haven't done this myself, so I'd wait for more replies before taking my word for it lol

1 more question: I assume the tach and speedometer needles will remain orange regardless of light color? Not a deal breaker, but I guess the needles are a pain to swap out, and aren't worth touching?

So I did another test, when I flick the high beams on with the engine off, the reception takes a hit, so I'm wondering if its strictly due to the headlights since they're on when the engine is running, and when I turn on the night time headlights, it compounds the issue since it draws more power. I wrapped the aftermarket harness ground wire around what I assumed to be a good grounding point; it seems like whether I ground it or not, it doesn't make a difference :s Maybe I'll find another ground point; where did you ground your wire? I'm starting to think that I'll never find a solution to my problem