95PsychoPathfinder

To allow the suspension trawl, the cv axle does have a slight adjustment in length. The tri ball at the end sits in a cup that gives it roughly 1.75 to 3.5 inches of movement. Allowing the axle to become slightly longer and shorter. Anywhosier, pull the axle nut, free it up inside the hub so it will slide back and forth, and use a pickle fork to pry on the CV while getting at the bolt head with a shallow socket. I have a super shallow set of 3/8 and 1/2 drives that come with super shallow sockets. They get right in there no problem I'm sure. Got right in behind the brake shoes on a 2003 Subaru Impreza WRX 2.0T to break the hub assembly bolts loose and then I just fingered them out, and back in. I also have a set of offset box end wrenches that I used an angle grinder to cut off two of the 6 sides. Kind of like a flare nut wrench for hard-lines but with an additional side removed. You're in Australia tho right? Unfortunately I don't think AutoZone is in Australia otherwise I'd say buy the size duralast box end you need and take an angle grinder to them, duralast wrenches are guaranteed for life and I have literally used the battery of my pathy, and a set of jumper cables to weld two spanner wrenches together. So I could reach a bell housing bolt without any kind of jack, and only a couple spanners and random sockets. Enough ranting, use a pickle fork to pry that axle out of the hub as much as possible and get on that head, break it loose, be liberal with your penetrating fluid, and use a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. I call it AceTeF and its way better than PB blaster, kroil, liquid wrench, all of the penetrating fluids you could possibly think of.

I am currently trying to bypass the master switch for the ASCD on the dash to the left of the steering wheel, I already tried jumping just the black and brown wires, no go. I accidentally crossed two that I'm not sure which ones they were and killed my dash lights and tail lamps ? new tail lamp fuse (10A)and got them back! My question here is what else should I jump? Will I hurt something if I jump the computer's pins? I don't think the lighting pinouts make a difference but I also didn't think the dash lights, tail lights, and cruise control switch would be on the same friggin circuit! Any help would be AWESOME! I have FSM wiring diagram but screenshots are too large to attach, can send them upon request, I get email notifications about replies and I am on here frequently!

Just killed my dash lights fracking around with my cruise control on switch (trying to bypass so cruise is always on) and nuked the dash lamps. Checked all the lamp fuses except tail kuz I figured that'd be a dumb fuse to use.... Gahhhh! It's 4am so I figured I'd go in the house and get on the interwebs and npora is always the first place I go... Hopefully I've found the solution here! FYI the fuse marked Meter kills the tach, and the alternator voltage output and kicks the battery light on. I think fuel and temp gauge also died but it's 4am, goodnight!

If you have the 15mm sway in the rear the part number is FA7497 and they're in stock at my neighborhood AutoZone $11.99.

yea, definitely getting rid of the wrong Pathy... And nothing crosses over. It's all different. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

yea, definitely getting rid of the wrong Pathy... And nothing crosses over. It's all different. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

My 95 XE V6 4x4 does 3,250rpm in 4th gear @ 40 mph. That's 5th gear at almost 55 and That's 4th gear at 60... I'm running 235/75r15, same H46 rear axle... I'm redlining when I get on the interstate?? can't imagine my mpg likes it

https://www.4x4parts.com/c-1046828-suspension-lifts-lift-packages-pathfinder-1987-1995-pathfinder-suspension-packages.html Found this right here thanks to another forum. Website navigation isn't the easiest and they max out at 3, but I found some! ? Yea I'm pretty sure that after the 30-40 times I had jumped it on the dunes out here in Oregon with the torsion bars already being over tightened to raise the ride height, I probably didn't do it any favors. But man I had it over 2.5 meters off the ground at least 10 times.

Sorry Mr. FirstGenFreak, I must apologize for my ignorant fellow American, I apologize for the first bit of his post, and while it does suck to have restrictions in sure you'll appreciate the mathematics I'm about to lay down and I know you appreciate not having a lunatic running your country. The United States has 13 times the number of people as Australia, so you'd expect the US to have 13 times the number of cases and deaths. Mr. Reverse I speak to you now, All of these numbers are current as of 09/26/2020 US. Covid cases 7,078,798 New cases 45,752 US. Covid deaths 204,497 Australia Covid cases 27,040 New cases 24 Australia Covid death 872 So if we take Australias figures and multiply by 13 because the United States has 13 times the number of people we get 27040 x 13 = 351,520 total cases 24 x 13 = 312 new cases 872 x 13 = 11,336 deaths That's friggin insane! The US has 262 times more cases, 1,906 times more of which were new cases reported yesterday, and 235 times more deaths... So Mr. Reverse I gotta say, your username is either a true representation of your thought processes. Yea being on lockdown sucks. Having a 3 mile radius around your house that you couldn't travel outside of would suck! Only being able to leave your property to go to your permitted job, get groceries, or your 1 hour of daily exercise, yea that would suck too, and a curfew at night from 8pm -5am also bites! But the US should have cases around 350,000 And a death toll of 11,336. And we would if we didn't think we were the only free country on earth, but we don't because we're too loud and obnoxious and are giant babies who cry about wearing a mask. But when you've got 9 family members dead 3 in icu who honestly aren't gonna make it and 35 who've tested positive like I do, you'd be wishing you took this @!*% seriously. It's not political, It's life or death. I pray for all those who haven't been infected, those who have, and those who are sick and in hospital. If you were a country loving, God loving, American Patriot. You'd wear a mask outdoors, not socialize in person with those you don't live with, wouldn't go on camping trips and go wheelin with your buddies, and you definitely wouldn't be calling it political virus showing off your maga lovin, trump supportin, conspiracy theorizing brainwashing. I'm a gun totin, country lovin, God loving, American Patriot in Oregon. I am ashamed to say that I almost voted for trump 4 years ago, @!*% I had his name filled in on my ballot and everything but I was out on a snow wheelin trip and forgot to drop it off at the elections office on the way up to the mountains. My sincerest apologizes FirstGenFreak, and to you as well Mr. Reverse, I just hope made it this far. Gun totin, Country lovin, God loving, Oregonian Patriot 95PsychoPathfinder God bless us all.

I just replaced my ignition switch, with the key turned to the start position I'd have to rock it from 1 o'clock to 7 o'clock. As it got worse it became 2 and 8. Had the new switch for about a year and now I'm having starting issues. Guy I bought the truck from had it since 2001 and never replaced starter so I presume it's the starter. Considering the placement of the oil filter (V6 idk about 4 banger) I would encourage the use of electronic parts cleaner, not brake or carb clean, every time the oil is changed. But I've read that those ignition switches are a very poor design and commonly have this problem. Also can't get the switch separately, at least not from AutoZone, O'Reilly or Napa...

1st pic is after tightening the torsion bars as much as I could.

If the 87 uses torsion suspension, good luck finding any kind of a lift kit. I have scoured every off roading nook and cranny. Nothing. It seems like it's just impossible. I was only looking to go up 3-5 inches but there's absolutely nothing, so I cranked the torsion bars and gained about 3/4 to an inch. Sorry for my American measurements. I wanted 8-13cm and tightening up the torsion bars got me 1.9-2.5cm

I had this issue with a Mazda engine, BP01, it's only a 4 banger but the fastest and easiest way to determine if you have bad rings or a bad head gasket is to run the compression test and record result, then add a few milliliters of fresh clean engine oil (displacement will determine how much you need, keep in mind cylinder bore is more important than stroke here). If your compression improves significantly after adding a small amount of oil to the cylinder, the piston rings are shot. My little BP01 is supposed to have an 8.9:1 compression ratio, atmospheric pressure @ sea level is 14.7psi, 14.7x8.9=130.83 so a perfect cylinder should show 130psi I had >123psi in cyls 1&2, 97psi in cyl 3, and 63psi in cyl 4. 2.5ml of oil in cyl 4 brought compression up from 63psi to 108psi (head gasket was also bleeding pressure out the end of the block, however I did not have exhaust gasses in my coolant or in my oil but you could see where it was blowing thru the side) cyl 3 I added 2.5ml of oil, compression came up from 97psi to 121psi. While doing the head gasket I popped the pistons out, had them cleaned. Had the head pressure tested, surfaced and cleaned, block was surfaced, cleaned and honed, and of course new rod end bearings and rolled in new mains. I'm bumpin out 130 psi in all 4 cyls now, perfect!