JackFletcher
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Posts posted by JackFletcher
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Thanks to all I didn’t think about the heat method. I was planning on using the flex seal family of products to seal the holes lol
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within the past 3 months of me having taillights guards I have just started to notice that water must be getting in through these two small holes that are supposedly sealed off but obviously not. The holes have began to drip rust onto my rear bumper. My plan is to seal them myself but first I need to find away to get the water out. Do you guys know any tricks to dry up the water inside? I was thinking putting sea salt down the small holes but then I remembered that can be a cause of rust. I think? Please let me know any suggestions thanks.
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BTW, you have an awesome name! Kind of sounds like Jack Reacher.
And just to be clear-@hawairish advice totally trumps mine. He has an incredible amount of hands on experience.
Lol. Thanks to all for the help.
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Think of the SFD as a means to correct lift amounts beyond 2”, and for the front of the truck only. It’s literally to “drop” the suspension, driveline, and suspension to correct the effects of too much lift. You can do any amount of lift (by means of strut spacers or coils; struts by themselves don’t provide any lift) you’d like, but you just need an SFD to correct everything.
That said, you’re looking at needing at least 4” of lift to reasonably clear 32” tires. To get 4” you can do stock springs on a 4” strut spacer, or 2” lift springs and 2” spacers. You’d then want a 4” SFD to “correct” the OE geometries. You can put 6” of lift on a 4” SFD...the truck will then have the geometries of a 2” lift, which is acceptable.
Ok thanks to all for the explanation. I have got some time to decide still waiting on the money to pay for this lol. I will let you know what I go with!
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Well...there's one caveat: no one's making SFDs. But, perhaps that'll change soon...
The problem is that 2"-3" is that no-man's land. You can do 3" of lift without an SFD, but shouldn't. The issue is that after around the 2.5" mark, your suspension articulation can cause the CVs to bind due to higher angles, which will eventually lead to breakage. You could buy lifetime-replacement CVs if you enjoy the work, but the purpose of the SFD is to restore those CVs angles to acceptable specs. Same is true for the steering/alignment and suspension.
So I’m a bit overwhelmed here. I see all of these options like spacers, lift springs, struts and the sfd. What would you guys do if you were in my position? I’m looking to fit 32s or 33s. Thank you.
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To elaborate on what mjotrainbrain said...
to lift with springs changes all of the suspension geometry angles which affects all of the suspension attributes (bump steer and alignment for instance). And the limitation with this vehicle is the CV joint angles, which limit you to about 2.5" maximum. This also results in a suspension that has more compression than extension which causes another set of problems.
When lifting by SFD, none of that is affected and the suspension can retain all of the stock characteristics while getting a lift. It's great. The only thing it doesn't improve is the ground clearance at the differentials, but that's the nature of the thing....
All in all, it's the better way to lift IMO.
Very interesting. I have been in the process of deciding which form of lift I am gonna do and I haven’t considered this one until now. Due to the fact that I am only interested in a 2-3 in lift would you still recommend the sfd?
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2 minutes ago, mjotrainbrain said:
Basically it's the only way to lift over ~2.5". The CV's in the front end only have so much angle they can handle, so to lift higher you need to lower the diff. On other 4x4's with full frames diff drops are common (for example, look at a 6" or 8" lift kit for a fullsize IFS truck). With the R50 platform you can't simply drop just the diff, so the entire front subframe gets spaced down to give lift. This actually works really well because in addition to moving the diff, it moves the steering and control arms down as well do maintain all of the stock suspension geometry. Hopefully that description is helpful and not confusing!
Perfect explanation. Thanks for your help!
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I saw a bunch of people doing these on the forum. I couldn’t find a reason why people do it on here or on the google. Hoping you guys could help explain it to me.
Thanks
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Nice clean truck! interior looks beautiful.
ps is that a police ram bar lol
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29 minutes ago, RainGoat said:
So I take this comment in the genuine spirit of a helpful warning with which I’m sure it was intended, however, I’m curious to hear some input from the forum. I’ve heard this theory several times but no one seems to have seen an actual failure. We have a handful of people with full length racks mounted to their rails & I myself ran a small Yakima Basketcase mounted to my rails for 14 years. Has anyone out there actually seen this problem occur? I’m wondering if it is more of a theoretical problem become urban legend.
It seems to me that while the load bars would allow some deformation, they too would be at risk for this problem, though to a lesser degree. I also wonder if the conduit clamps in these applications might even allow for more deformation and flexing than load bars. In any case, I expect that it might take some significant flexing & rock crawling to cause a problem to occur. Having disassembled several R50 racks now, I note the rails are very stiff & likely only flex up & down. They are then crossbraced not only with the load bars, but also with multiple smaller crossbars on some versions. Finally, while I realize the R50 is a different vehicle from most other trucks because it is a unibody, there are ALOT of overlanding trucks out there these days with full length racks (with lots of anchor points) and I don’t really hear about this problem actually occurring.
Yes my intentions were just to warn him of a risk that i learned on mjotrainbrain616's video on YouTube titled "Overview of My Modded 2002 Infiniti QX4" . He talks about the Unibody flexing while he was on trails causing some of the screws to become unhinged. Not trying to debate anything just a friendly warning about something i recently learned. My loadwarrior was always on the crossbars and i dont mind the look.
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7 minutes ago, 02_Pathy said:7 minutes ago, 02_Pathy said:
Alright second post. For the rack I used a Rola Rack with extension as the length almost fits perfectly on the roof of the pathy. For the hardware that I used were electrical conduit clamps that I picked up from Home Depot (they come in a pack of 5), lock washer, locking nut, bolt that threads into the stock sliders in the rails and a washer. Most of the hardware I had were Cerakoted black as I didn’t want a galvanized beacon on top of the truck which wouldn’t look so sharp. I chose Cerakote because it is extremely durable as it is a ceramic coating and they can withstand the abuse of the elements and tree branches. Cerakote also is flexible so when you clamp the conduits to the rack it doesn’t chip off. Cerakote application is a little involved as you have to get the materials for it and bake it but I have a certified Cerakote applicator at my work and he gave me a really good deal so I did that route. I used 10 clamps total and it holds the rack very securely, I can rock the whole vehicle by grabbing onto the rack and it doesn’t move or creak at all. I’ve driven up to 90 mph with it and had about 60 pounds of cargo up there and had no issues with it. I can flex the vehicle just fine without the unibody flexing the mounts off or ripping them out of the rail. The rack sits very low to the roof which could be a plus or minus. I can still open the sunroof but the glass touches the bar ever so slightly. After a couple of deadlifts of bending the bar upwards the glass still touches it. The rubber mouldings along the roof sit maybe a ¼ inch or less between the rack. I’m going to fix this issue by probably getting thicker washers and slightly longer bolts to help sit the rack a little bit higher so I can fit straps underneath the lower bar and the stock roof rack rails
Looks sick bro. I watched a video on youtube by one of the guys on the forum that talks about how bolting your rack directly to the roof can cause the bolts to bend with the unibody when it flexes off road. I know a lot of people do it but just keep that in mind. i keep my yakima load warrior on the 04 LE crossbars.
7 minutes ago, 02_Pathy said:-
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23 hours ago, RainGoat said:
Welcome! You’ll love it & NPORA will be a great resource for you.
I’m the self appointed Power Valve Evangelist so here goes: One notable issue with these trucks that all new owners should know is the power valve issue. It’s only about 2-3* work yourself or at a shop & can save you an engine.
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/?do=embedThank you. That is definelty something that i will look into. It is too complicated for me at the moment. Im still learning a lot about engines and stuff. i will probably have a mechanic look into it over the summer. God bless
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Hi all, new here. Bought a pathy r50a few months ago. im in love. I need to upgrade my shocks and coil springs to give it a lift, plus the stock ones are ragged out. Is there a particular brand yall reccomend. This my first car and i dont really know much. Thanks
Light bar and "Raptor/4Runner" running lights
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Does anybody know if a Mesh SE grille like the one 02_Pathfy put on fit on a 2004 LE? I’m sick of my stock LE grille so I ordered a billet insert and to my dismay I found out that After 2002 Nissan started molding the insert to the frame of the grille instead of bolting it on which makes it impossible for me to install the billet insert. My plan was then to just order a 2001 SE grille and then bolt on my billet insert, but now I am skeptical that Nissan has changed some other dumb thing that will make it impossible for me to fit it in. Have any of you tried putting a older grille in a 03-04? Will it fit?
Lmk if this doesn’t make any sense lol
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