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JackFletcher

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Posts posted by JackFletcher

    Engine dies on hot start

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    Sounds like exactly my issue. The electronic throttle bodies are weird since the idle air control valve is built in and not a separate unit. Now that I think about it, there was a time when it had improved a bit which was after I had changed the spark plugs and also did a half assed throttle body cleaning at the same time. I think I’m going to try a legit throttle body cleaning tonight and see what happens. 

    I did a throttle body clean a few months ago. tripped codes cuz the computer doesn’t understand that you are getting more air than you were after cleaning it. Simply just do a idle relearn and the code cleared itself. P0507


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    Engine dies on hot start

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    Okay so I’ve been living with this for a couple years..and am finally deciding to try again to figure it out. This is on a 2003 R50 with the electronic throttle body (drive by wire), auto trans. It will always start flawlessly when cold, but when hot it has a stumble for the first 2-3 seconds. If I just start it normally, it will start but then the idle will immediately dip way down to around 100-200 rpm. This only lasts about 2 seconds. If it doesn’t stall out, then the idle will pick up to normal range (about 750-850) and everything will be fine after that. Or, if I give it a little gas for the first couple of seconds after starting it to keep the idle from dipping down, then I can release the throttle and it will idle fine after that. Basically, I just have to get it through the first 2-3 seconds when the idle tries to drop, and after that all is good. It has absolutely zero drive-ability problems after that. I’ve performed the throttle position and idle air relearn procedures several times, and that doesn’t help. There are no trouble codes. Again this only happens on a hot start. I’ve gotten used to just blipping the throttle a little every time I start it, but I’d like to finally figure out what’s actually going on. If anyone else with the drive by wire system has experienced this I welcome the input.
     
    thanks!

    Have you tried cleaning the throttle body? It could also be the CPS


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    Necessary to re gear?

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    I went with the 9447 from land rover direct and I am super happy. My truck rides 10 times better and hitting bumps doesn't thrown my truck all over the place. I can also load it down without bottoming out anymore. Rear the post that pathydude linked on the spring install, i was just gonna link it as well. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/43810-land-rover-rear-lift-spring-install/page/8/

    I can’t decide on 9447 or 9449 lol I have till June to decide. I finally get some time off to work on this thing then


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    Necessary to re gear?

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    The landrover 2" lift springs are great, finally put mine in last weekend. Easiest way is to unbolt the cross arm that bolts to the panhard bracket, remove lower rear sway link bolts, pull the clips for the rear brake line and unbolt the brake line from the rear axel and get a big jack and wood block and jack the hell out of the rear on the spare tire or hitch it you have one. I was able to put my springs in by hand, no spring compressor.

    What is the stock number for the 2” lift springs you are referring to?


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    Necessary to re gear?

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    9 hours ago, Bax03SE said:

    I have no complaints running 33” mud tires with the stock gears. The truck still has plenty of power for daily driving and can still cruise 75-80 mph on the highway no problem. My speedometer is off about 3 mph but that doesn’t bother me. As long as you have a newer R50 with the vq35 then gears are not a necessity at all. Nice to have sure, but not necessary. The older rigs with the vg33 may be a different story. 

    Alright great to know. My vehicle is going to be daily driven and used on the highway so im glad to hear that you havent had issues with even bigger tires than what  I was going with. Btw awesome build!! I have been following your thread and I am amazed at how fast you get stuff done lol

    Necessary to re gear?

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    Hello NPORA, in the coming month or so I plan to go ahead and lift my pathy. Yall have given me lots of information over the past 6 months and I have learned a lot. Today I was just going over some threads and reading about Lokka and LSD swaps while bored in class and i was getting confused about gear ratios and stuff like that. Then I watched a video on youtube about gear ratios and they explained it well. Also how they all connect with your engine, trans, tires and diff. Most people haven't mentioned it in any of their mild to mid builds so i figured that as long as you werent doing a sfd and trying to fit 33´+ tires that a regear wouldnt be necessary. Just to make sure I wanted to ask yall if i need to regear and what I can expect in performance changes. I plan on running 32s maybe something like them falken wild peak a/ts. Talked to some guys on instagram and they both said great things about the lr9449 and ac springs so that is what i will go with. 

     

    Thanks 

    Fletch

    2003 LE Drivers window always comes part way down

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    The driver side window on my 2003 pathfinder  won't stay closed. Everytime, It goes up then comes part way down, so I have to turn the ignition off while holding the switch in closing position in  in order to fully close the window ANNOYING!!. Anybody know a fix for this  like relearning or is this a case of messed up hardware?
    Thanks 

    I have noticed that after disconnecting the negative battery terminal to do service my sunroof creeps open and doesn’t open in one press. I’m sure it’s a similar problem for you. I looked up Nissan sunroof relearn but before I attempted it, the problem stopped after a week so I never tried it. Weird Nissan @!*% lol


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    R50 Rain Guard Warning

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    That really sucks, sorry you have to deal with it! Although technically the 3m tape did exactly what it’s supposed to, it stuck to the paint but for some reason the paint is failing and didn’t stick to the truck. From your pics it even looks like the duct tape is pulling paint up with it? Do you have any idea if those areas have had paint work done or if the paint is original? Wondering if it’s a failure from poor prep work or if the oem paint is peeling up. 
     
    Fwiw, Maaco tends to get a bad rep but I’ve had great experiences with them. They’re all franchises so it all comes down to how each local owner runs their business. If you find a good one run by people who care, then they can put out some nice quality work. I actually just had my 94 Vette repainted at my local Maaco about 2 weeks ago (the paint job was a bday present from my wife). It looks great! I don’t have much money invested in this Vette so I couldn’t see taking it somewhere that wanted more to paint it than what I spent on the car. 

    All appeared to be oem paint to me. I was very particular when I bought it to go through and make sure the vehicle hadn’t been in a accident. You are correct about the damn 3M tape it did hold on to the paint lol. The second picture is the worse one because under the duct tape it pulled all the paint when It flew up on the highway.

    Nice to hear that you had a good experience with Maaco, funny how it works but they just opened one a little drive a way from me. I will be interested in seeing how they operate. I have been impressed by their “$399” paint jobs I have seen on YouTube.

    I will report back when It’s all said in done. I’m hoping to expedite the repair. Thanks


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    R50 Rain Guard Warning

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    c1ce034c77d04905b352644109e123e2.jpg5f1cbd9a48915984a70b79de3c905480.jpg

     

    Buyer beware Nissan Pathfinder Rain/Window Guards

    My mom bought these for me on Christmas and riding down the highway they flew off and took the paint with them. She says she got them off eBay. I would advise not buying them entirely but I wanted to put them on cause she got them for me. Guess I’ll be calling Maaco now

     

     

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    • Like 2

    Rear main seal dilemma

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

     
    My thoughts as well. Took it to my mechanic and he also said its the rear main. No signs of a leaky cover gasket.
     

    I would say the oil is not worth going out of your way for. If it’s easy for you to get go ahead , but don’t expect to notice a big difference compared to other full synthetics. Just my two sense but if you did do the research and it does help with leaks might as well try!


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    Rear main seal dilemma

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    Hi Fam!
     
    I've got a minor rear main seal leak - yet noticeable (mostly just bubbles on bell housing). I'm planning on replacing the seal in the future and I know its the best way and the right way to go ahead with it.
     
    On that note, has anybody used Valvoline Maxlife engine oil? apparently it reduces, if not completely stop rear main seal leaks? 
     
    There are also 'rear main seal repair' additives. Definitely not a fan of adding additives with engine oil. but has anybody gone down this path? 
     
    How bad does a rear main seal leak need to be to be taken seriously?
     
    While we are on the topic of engine oil. Anybody using 20w-50 grade oil?

    I currently have in Valvoline maxlife full synthetic high mileage 5w 30 . It was the first thing put in the truck when I got it because I heard it was tough on sludge. I didn’t have any way of knowing how often the previous owner changed oil and if there was sludge or not. So far it hasn’t wowed me but it’s a decent oil. My rear main seal area has a slight damp look to it which makes me think it will go in a few years but for now I am fine. I do not plan on continuing to run Valvoline simply because I’m a sucker for premium oils but go ahead and try it out see if it works!


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    Risks Of lift

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    just something to add! the “missing link” also helps those cvs with the spacers. i feel like as it stiffens the front it adds little more resistance to over flexing the front since you’re connecting independent suspensions?? feel free to tell me i’m wrong here though


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    That would make sense. Thanks


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    • Like 1

    Risks Of lift

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    I've had the AC heavy duty 2 inch spring lift for the past 10 years. At the same time I changed the shocks and struts and put in manual hubs. I've had larger tires the whole time, right now 265/70R16s.  

    I've had zero extra problems related to it. It rides really rough, but the handling is much better than stock.

     

    Just in the last 6 months I have a minor clunking in the front suspension when turning hard over a bump at slow speed. But at 260k miles and as hard as I drive it in the city, I think it is due to be a little tired.

     

    At this point with the youngest R50 being 15 years old, the last thing I would be worried about is resale value. I'd be more worried about spending a bunch of money on it and it not lasting long.

     

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    I don’t want to know my resale value lol. I’m driving this thing till the wheels fall off. But I completely agree with you the last thing I want is to pour all this money in with the lift and tires and then watch the truck fall apart. Thank you for the reassurance!

     

     

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    • Like 1

    Risks Of lift

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    Here's my 2 cents. Find a new mechanic or ditch 'em altogether. Lifting your rig is not going to devalue it at all, and any true car guy doesn't give a darn about value anyway, it's about what the car means to you. Lifting it is not gonna just make all your parts stop working all of a sudden or lead them to break more often than just driving the car is. As long as you do everything right you will have no problems. Increasing control arm angle theoretically wears it out faster but I've never had any problems with mine. As long as the angle is still within operating limits (in other words, as long as you don't use spacers) your cv's will still be within the limit they were designed to work at. I've said the same thing in another thread somewhere but basically you can put however much lift you want in the front as long as the spring still fits in the original strut. The cv axles were designed to work within the full range of suspension travel all the way up to full extension, so even if you could theoretically fit a spring in that held the strut all the way topped out all the time the axles would still work in 4wd fine. Of course you'd have other problems then but that's purely for example. You don't experience any problems until you add a spacer into the mix. Since a spacer goes on top of the strut it allows the suspension to drop to full extension PLUS however much the spacer adds, which allows the control arm and axles and whatnot to drop past the range in which they were meant to operate within. For example, if you have a 2" spacer on top of your strut, at full droop your wheel will be able to extend the full length of the topped out strut plus another 2 inches past, which is 2 inches lower than the axles were made to operate at. For the rear you can basically do whatever you want until you reach around 6" which is where you start running into driveshaft issues. 
     
    Lifting your car isn't really gonna affect it negatively at all, it'll only benefit. You'll have more suspension travel, better handling and a better ride, better articulation, and have a way cooler car in general that can get places it couldn't before. When it comes down to it, lifting your car is making it way better, not worse. 

    I completely agree with you. That darn mechanic had me worried.


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    Risks Of lift

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    And beyond personal testimonies, if you start reading through this forum a lot, you’ll have a tough time finding people complaining about their lifts.And besides, if your like most people who want a lifted 4x4, the small nuances won’t matter in conparison to how much you enjoy being lifted.

    Very true!


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    Risks Of lift

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    The setup you mentioned being set on is the exact setup I have(OME/AC heavy duty springs up front, LR 9449 rear springs) with 275/55 20's(32"). To date I have not had any issues. As the other posters have mentioned, it drives a little different and the ride is more stiff. But I'll say I have been very impressed with the road ride quality.
    When I go off road is when I feel the rigidness in the suspension.
    I changed out my CV axles, but only beacause of the post concerns when doing my initial research about lifting it. They didn't really need to be changed.
    I also put manual hubs on which has been a big benefit as well.
    The setup you are thinking of going with should be just fine. Yes some things will be out of their normal range which could cause more potential strain on them.
    If you go in knowing this and are o.k. with changing a FE suspension part every now and then, just lift it!

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    Exactly what I needed to hear thank you for the advice!


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    Risks Of lift

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    Awesome thank you so much. I was getting big sad until I talked to y’all. Lol. I will be perfectly content with 2in and I will be mindful when on the trails. Thanks for the info and the trail tips I didn’t know that stuff about the cvs.
    Have a good night!


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