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Posts
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About KLL
- Birthday 08/08/1980
Previous Fields
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Your Pathfinder Info
1999 SE VG33E with LPG
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Mechanical Skill Level
Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
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Your Age
22-29
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What do you consider yourself?
Weekend Warrior
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Model
SE
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Year
1999
Profile Information
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Gender
Male
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Location
Ankara - TURKEY
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Interests
RC Sailplanes, Music, Martial Arts, Photography
Recent Profile Visitors
2,310 profile views
KLL's Achievements
NPORA Regular (2/5)
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if my memory serves me correct, when you pull, there is a socket for overdrive button, it is harder to put it back. so be carefull. i removed it once, to install led bulbs inside gear selector.
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i dont think that transmisison can be worn out this fast. only 2000 miles. i drive smoothly and relaxed. i feel problem is in somewhere else. but i really dont know now. i am really disappointed today. about drive shaft,i think it is ok, no vibration on any speed; and it was ok after overhauling, nobody touched it, same shaft installed and it was still ok until this morning. shuddering/vibration returned back. as it appeared 5 months ago. may be, due to complete flushing of oil and fresh ATF make it better for some time and real reason appeared after 2000 miles once more. Increasing shift quality and better acceleration is only side effects of overhauling procedure. main reasons didnt cured in the end.
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after overhauling, i was happy with my transmisison but... after 2000 miles it returned back. so bad... it seems problem is not directly related to worn out clutch bands or other elements.
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what if i replace stock 7x15" wheels with 8.5x15" ?
KLL replied to KLL's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
here is the result i found that,offset of stock wheels are about +26 ET. my new tires are +10. so car has ~3 cm better track now. no rubbing issues. -
did you check expansion tank? for instance mine is constantly dripping... it is somehow cracked.
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mine is doing exatly same. mine was rebuilt 1month ago. so i think it is related to fluid tremperature.
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my trasnmission was rebuilt. it was shifting hard 1sn to 2nd, there was vibration on overdrive, now no vibration, but it is still @!*%fitng tight, but little smoother than past. may be it is related to selenoids.
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in a machine with a haweka branded adaptor, they rebalanced tires, and they seemed balanced and no up and down movement while turning. so for now lets assume wheels and tires are ok. about being a lugcentric wheel, today i checked stock wheel, stud holes, i found that the countersunk part is same as new wheels(tapered sides?). hole sides are not flat. but ofcourse wheels have a 5.5 inch 98mm center. is there any other indication to understand these are lugcentric or not. may be i need correct type lugs. also if these are hubcentric and if i find correct ring adaptors, can this cure my balancing problem? or should i try to give these rims back. (i do not want to)
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actually holes are countersung . may be i should use original lugs to fit wheel. new lugs seemed not very well designed to me. unccpathfinder: should i understand from your words, i do "not" need hubcentric ring for perfect fitting becaus of having countersung wheel fitting holes? also, i wonder if center hub carries a load or not.
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I bought reasonably priced 15 inch alloy wheels to have more offset and have better handling. Actually i got what i expected but.. After installation and balancing i found that there is still vibration and there were no hubcentric after 50 miles ~09 km/h. During re balancing i found my rear left tire is bouncing a little(its balance ok) So i am confused, is the reason of vibration, bouncy single tire, or improper centering due to bigger bore size(like lug centrig tires) and lack of hubcentric adaptor rings. or both. I machined an adaptor but it is temporary and it fits perfectly well to hubs and rear wheel centers, when tire is fixed with lugs with adaptor on, i remove adaptor and it "seems" wheel is well centered. any comments? help me please. thank you in advance.
