mechanic58

I been up there. Dismal place. Really, that whole nw corner of Ohio is a dismal place. One memory I have from driving around in Lima one day was of a ****** old house in town that was painted up like a Richard Petty Race car. The WHOLE house. Trash everywhere in the yard, it was a dissaster. lol I'll never forget it. Went up there with a buddy one time to pick up a Boss Hoss motorcycle.

I guess you're out of luck there. I'd rather take an ass beating than travel to Holland, Ohio for any reason. lol

Sure. I know everything, I just can't remember it all at once.

Guess I should have read all the replies before posting. lol

Vacuum leak. One or some of the o-rings on the injectors on whichever side you had apart got ham-fisted when you put it back together. Now it's sucking air around an injector. Or several of them. Do over.

Disable it so it won't start, then put it on craigslist and play dumb.

Used to you could buy just a new pulley/clutch assembly with a new bearing, but I haven't seen those parts listed separately for a long time now. Usually by the time those parts are worn out the compressor is work out or leaking anyway. You will also require some special tools to remove the clutch if you attempt to go that route.

Meow.

I didn't remove any of those screws but I did put a screwdriver on all of them and tighten them. Each one moved slightly. I may have to re-examine this though, thanks for the tip.

Did a little path-finding today.

Anyone else have this problem? I removed the cluster and re-seated the ribbon cables, didnt seem to help. Whenever it quits working if I rap on the dash itll start working again, lol. Ordinarily its really not a big deal, but if I happen to have the cruise set it disengages when the speedo quits working.

Fixin to put a set on mine also. Pacesetters most likely. Mine sounds like a clapped out old dump truck right now, its bad lol.

I cant figure out how it came off. After I fixed it I operated it numerous times and was not able to make it come back off. Beats me.

Welp, that was an easy fix!

Mine has four levers so I assume its manual. The temp adj. slider has no resistance when I move it - perhaps the cable is broken or disconnected. Thanks for the info, Ill check it out.

Ive successfully jerked one of these engines out without removing the front diff, but Ive never been able to reinstall one without doing it.

Pretty sure Nissan never made a non-interference engine. Any Nissan mill with a belt-driven cam WILL bend valves during a belt or cam failure.

The 95 SE I just recently picked up has no heat. The engine runs the correct temp and the heater core is connected and intact. Appears to be a blend door issue. How are they actuated? Vacuum or electric servo?

I believe the od solenoid is on the lower left part of this pic, might be the tcc solenoid also, not 100% sure. I just overhauled this one a couple weeks ago. My brain is still sore from it lol. This one had lost reverse. Had a worn stator and reverse drum. Had the replace the pump and the reverse drum.

Its probably a wiring issue - mice. The trans harness connectors are in a bundle on the pass side fenderwell. The wires for the od solenoid can be found there. Sometimes that harness can chaff on the trans under the body. Inspect that, if its good then it could be a bad od solenoid. The switch on the shifter might also be bad. Hope youre good at electrical troubleshooting, good luck.

I have avoided having to purchase and install a snorkel on all my vehicles for more than 30 years simply by staying out of deep water.

You could prolly do a little homework and locate this vehicle in a salvage yard eventually...and get that brush guard. lol

Be sure to get the correct gear ratio! There were two I believe - 4.36 and 4.63. Rock Auto also offers a 5.13 for these, but I am not sure if that was a factory optional ratio or not.

The RE4R01A transmission has a built-in temperature sensor. There ought to be a way to intercept that feedback from the wiring harness and connect it to a gauge without too much trouble.

The only way to make any automatic transmission last is to service it regularly. In most applications 50,000 miles is an acceptable serivice interval, however in rough service applications you should consider cutting that in half. Having been a mechanic for more than 30 years I can tell you that I have seen it all. Machinery simply will not wear out if it is kept lubricated with good, clean lubricant. You can never change oil 'too often'. On the flip side, however...if you ever find yourself in possession of a vehicle with high miles that has never had an auto trans service, the very worst thing you can do is change the oil in that transmission. Chances are it won't make it back from the post oil change test drive...lol. I have seen this happen dozens and dozens of times. So much so that I actually make people sign waivers when they want me to service their high mileage auto trans's without any known history.