RainGoat
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Posts posted by RainGoat
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On the Toyota & Overland Forums there is alot of discussion about AGM batteries often requiring higher output than stick Toyota alternators put out & that this can lead to premature battery failure in AGMs. I ran an old school Optima Red Top for over a decade with bo problem. My Yellow top did not last as long but still a handful of years (& consistent with the decline of Optima - my 2nd Yellow Top in another vehicle lasted only 3 years). What research I did on this seemed to indicate that the OEM Pathfinder alternator had a higher output than our ‘18 4Runner’s alternator & consequently shouldn’t be a problem. When I queried this in NPORA, general feedback was that it was mostly BS. All that said, the concept of it would support that higher output might, in fact, be beneficial to an AGM battery.
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Whatever you did worked - it’s visible in red lettering now.
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FYI, For some reason this loads on TapaTalk like it’s behind a deeply tinted window - VERY hard to read. I’m in dark mode on an iPhone but that doesn’t effect other postings.
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I would echo[mention=41900]PathyDude17[/mention] , just get out & use it first. Almost all the modding is really entertainment, the truck is quite capable stock. Tires are probably your smartest first investment though it does start to push the size question which pushes the lift question. I’d also recommend a set of X-Bull recovery boards, a hitch shackle & a basic recovery strap. Get your basics down & see where you find limitations that you want to address. There’s no need to be in a hurry.
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So if I got manual hubs and locked them then I could still switch between 2H 4H and 4L without getting out of the car?
Yes, locked it will behave as it does now. The real concern is what happens if you engage AWD unlocked. Lots & lots of theories from just some warning lights due to an unhappy computer to grenadine the transmission. The bulk of reasonable people doubt it causes harm - no one is inclined to test it. Personally, I find the benefits would be minimal versus the potential risk. -
Manual hubs give some functionality but are not necessary. Their value is particularly limited if you have the ATX14A transmission. I’ve driven my truck 18 years without them. I have a set in the garage that I’ll probably install this year, but I’m in no hurry. I use the AWD probably more than the 2WD since I live in the PNW & I prefer it’s driving characteristics off-road unless I’m in something truly challenging (it eliminates understeer you get with a locked center & therefore has slightly better grip). They may decrease wear but OEM CVs rarely fail except in spacer lifted trucks or maybe with hard wheeling - though I don’t recall an actual report of it. They reportedly improve mileage by 1-2mpg but that’s negligible to me. The only reason I’m going to put them on is to facilitate on-trail CV replacement (something I hope I never have to do - and probably won’t since I have an extra CV but never bring it along), they make it possible to switch out CVs without removing the wheel.
There are many claims regarding improvement with the missing link but I would concur that I’m personally dubious. After 100K & 17 years I put one on & I can’t say that I can tell the difference. It’s worth noting that one of the reasons those points aren’t attached is very possibly (I’d say likely) that it’s part of the safety design to eject the engine down instead of through the cab in a significant head-on impact. I still did it - in part for a skid plate mounting point (& skids undoubtedly effect crash dynamics negatively anyway).
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Ditto on everything above. Not applicable to your situation but I have top out occasionally on my current rears which are the Britpart LR9448s. I’m temporarily running old Bilstein 5100s while I figure out which 5165s to upgrade to. I basically only feel it under the conditions[mention=41155]R50JR[/mention] describes.
Since I was adding weight up front, I put on my 97# bumper before switching to the ARB OME2928 to avoid this problem; however, the truck was dangerously front heavy on the old OEM set-up for the brief time I had it like that - so much so, I essentially drove it home & then only drove it to go back to [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] where he helped me change out the front set up. After that, I couldn’t even feel the bumper anymore.
I positively love my front OME setup. It’s so nice that my wife spontaneously commented on it the first time she rode in it, just to the hardware store. It sounds like medium duty will fit your needs best.
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Personally I'd stick to stock or very light tint on any window you want to see through at night. Tinted windows are like sunglasses, you don't want them at night (unless you're Corey Hart).
The PO of mine tinted everything but the windshield and the sunroof. I don't know what percentage it was, but it was way too dark. It felt like I was driving a cave. I don't normally get claustrophobic, but, yeah, that crap had to go. I left the rear doors and the cargo area windows dark (can't see through those anyway), but swapped in a stock-tint rear window so I could see out the back, and stripped the front windows bare. I like the result a whole lot better.
I don't know what the factory percentage is, but I would expect a place that installs window tints to have a meter they'd let you use, probably the same type the cops use. And yes, I would expect the % blocked to add up like that, assuming the films aren't polarized.
I’d echo this 100%. I’m a bug fan of tinting my street cars but I would think twice on an off-road vehicle, especially if you ever drive offroad at night. It’s even more questionable for those of us that live in the Western PNW because our days are generally grey most of the year as well.
It should be noted that the dust can eat through that tint if you like to drive with your windows down. I generally explored as a solo vehicle my first couple decades & my truck has lines permanently etched in the rear row windows from the extremely sharp volcanic SW dust. I had this easily by 30-40K but my truck has been a trip truck for all but a handful of years. Aftermarket tint is less robust so keep that in mind if it’s dusty & you drive with the front windows partially down.
Now that my truck is largely a toy & in the PNW exclusively, I did tint my driver’s side windows to match. In most places this should be all you have to ask for. There are hand held devices which can measure your tint percentage - these are what some law enforcement officers carry in their patrol car for field checks.
Tinting your front windshield is essentially illegal in every state - but much harder, if not impossible, to field check.
Also, while annoying I’ve been ticketed in my old Z for having windows that didn’t meet California requirements despite the fact that I lived in & the car was registered in another state. Doesn’t seem like that should be possible or legal but when I went to court to politely demonstrate that I met KS law, the judge in LA ruled against me & I then had legal fees on top of my fine. Bull@!*% but it would have required an even more expensive lawyer to have tried to fight it, even my protest at the ruling had the judge threatening to increase my fine or add contempt & I was genuinely being polite & simply presenting KS legal requirements & proof of my residence. That said, I’ve driven without a front plate on 2 of my 3 cars for years now without a problem - probably the result of now being an old white guy in the suburbs.
Like alot of things, it’s all in the enforcement. -
Found this posted by Dan Otto on an Oregon Offroad FB group.
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check out toughdogcanada on IG.
Those numbers just don’t seem right. I paid $84.49 USD TOTAL ($32.92 part +$51.57 shipping) from LR Direct in England to Seattle, WA, USA less than a year ago.
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Which is which?
H190 Left; H233 Right?
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Ha ha, who would have ever thought that you’d need to go to an Isuzu Rodeo for parts (I believe the whole Honda Passport line was simply rebadged until Honda replaced it with their own homegrown Pilot in ‘02).
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Who’s Admin these days - this thread should get retitled ABS in order for people to find it later.
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[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] & @02_Pathy have both done it to switch to poly & their experience would echo the above post.
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My info:
OEM Replacement Parts
Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2
Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2
Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2
Did NOT use: Upper Seat Rubber Bumper (NOT rubber) [54057-0W000] $22.50=$11.25x2
$173.17 ($155.32+$17.85s) infinitipartsdeal.com
ARB OME Heavy Load Spring (110-220#) [2928] $167@Desert Rat/4WP
Rear Brake Line [bHH BH381108]
$19.79($17.99+$1.80t)@O’Reilly
You don’t need to extend the rear diff breather to lift. I have the following & the stock line still works fine. If you are going to extend it, use 1/4” fuel line ~20-25’ & run it to the engine bay firewall while you’re at it.
Britpart NRC9448 +4", 225# Spring Rate, Blue/Red; from LR 90 Defender-RearRH, 110 & 130 Heavy Duty-Front RH $84.49($32.92+$51.57) from LR Direct-
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Completely agree that rear LR springs have really made all other options obsolete. Mine were $84.49($32.92+$51.57) from LR Direct - ordered on a Friday afternoon & on my porch in Seattle before noon on Monday.
ARB OME HD in front will support the weight of a bumper, no problem. I have 97# up there - it was dangerous with my old OEM springs, installed ARB OME HD & struts & I can’t even feel it. Soon I’ll have another 70# with winch & lights & I expect it will take it fine. The OME rides better than stock - very nice!
@02_Pathy had just about the best optimized 2” lift rig I’ve seen (he now has an SFD). Honestly, unless you’re a rock crawler, you really don’t need more than 2” lift.
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Those are good looking steelies for sure!
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Those are good looking steelies for sure!
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Very nice!! Good job.
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Also, I believe those useless plastic hooks pass through as well. You could feed it through one of them or pull the plastic & put a grommet in.
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Hid lights in the oem headlight housings are a bit reflective but aiming the lamp a bit lower helps mitigate and almost eliminates scatter. Hid lights in the oem fog housings work perfectly with no problems.
I’m talking about OEM HIDs in my other vehicles - the excellent light output, but at 5-6,000K, is just a world different than the old 2700K halogens when it comes to reflectivity. Usually a good thing but not in heavy snow. I’ve come to the conclusion they’re nearly undrivable in a whiteout where you could have made it work with the old halogens. As a result, I’m putting an amber alternative on our family MDX after that experience.
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I installed a backup cam in my Mom’s old Jeep Grand Cherokee. I ended up drilling a hole in the tailgate behind the license plate, painting the edges & putting a grommet in the hole to mostly seal it up. It worked pretty well for the couple years until it dropped its #4 valve seat & the hemi was no more.
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The reason I haven't replaced my fog lights with LEDs is because I did replace my headlights with LEDs and although they are great, they do reflect in the fog, so I wasn't about to chance it with the fog lights. Perhaps you are right though, the fog lights are much smaller and might not reflect so much, especially if the LED is a warm white.
Or try an amber.@TowndawgR50 replaced his bumper auxiliary lights & his roof LED bar with amber & it’s great. He loves it as a driver & I prefer it both following & being followed by him. It should definitely reflect less. My experiences last year in a white out have convinced me that all my cars that might see snow need an amber option as HID are just too reflective - of course, with LEDs they won’t burn off the snow so it’s nit a perfect solution. -
@hawairish 4 Way Cams? Awesome! I’ve only wanted a reverse & forward undercarriage cam for about 18 years. I finally have a head unit that will accommodated 2 camera inputs & have just been waiting until the final rear setup is settled to mount them. After seeing[mention=41155]R50JR[/mention] Spoiler mount, I think I’ll go that direction & get it done this spring. How are you going to get the ability to have 4 camera inputs. As I’m often just with my kids these days, that sounds super attractive!
Excited New r50 owner
in New People Start Here!
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Welcome - curious as to why you relocated the air temp sensor & where you put it. Also, not sure what the air diffuser is that you mention. Do you mean the spoiler above the rear hatch glass?
You might be surprised how well it does with sway bars intact & it can get dangerously squirrelly without them. While it’s kind of a knee-jerk reaction to pull them, there are alot of us old timers who run with them. Some who’ve even removed & then reinstalled them.
You’ll find the ATX14A transmission extremely handy but it may effect your decisions regarding lockers.