Mattmill91

Rear wheels bearings went out 2 years ago at 202k currently at 213k. Aprox 11k miles later. Wheels are fine but wondering what bearings starting to fail. Prolly the input bearings? New to the gears. Interested in learning so those with knowledge please jump in

Drained and checked found a lot of metal fine particle and some larger chunks... I never learn. If the trucks talking try an listen... Decent whine at speed.. How long every one betting. Have a 500 mile drive tomorrow... should I just send it. [emoji848]

Hit all the vacume lines. Blow out caroal line from rear. charcoal in box breaks up goes down the tube.. but I think that’s a different code. I had vacuum codes I’ll I replaced all of em. There was a tiny pin hole in one on the octopus near the MAP sensor

This was a very unhappy engine.. with only 3lbs.. [emoji2357] but I got her figured out now she’s a happy sewing machine... Time for fun...

For anyone reference... this is a happy engine with 10 lbs of vac vs the very unhappy 6lbs

Thanks for the suggestions! I confirmed the other day it was an intake leak at lower intake and upper plenum. I had managed to push the paper gasket a side and pushed the bolts through it and lined up the front one. Creating a significant leak.

Here’s a video I just uploaded. Any help would be great. Thanks.

Ok so new problem. Got her back together. 6 months later and she’s running real rough... [emoji2357]. Feels like a vac leak maybe... not sure.. it revs out smooth but isles like complete dog @!*%

Thanks........... [emoji3525] I really do appreciate the info.... guess I should of done better diagnostics.

Doesn’t appear to be the head. [emoji21]

So I am just messing @!*% up

Can’t imagine it’s too different

Hmm. It’s a 97 Manuel so take it lightly.

Appears in the duct hosing before the MAF.. but I am not sure.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2002,pathfinder,3.5l+v6,1431960,fuel+&+air,air+intake+/+charge+temperature+sensor,5072

Wouldn’t a new intake temp sensor fix that? Bench test the other if possible. Check all the wires connections?

Checking under cover. “Loose” rocked could be interpreted as a bent valve?

Thinking to compression test a few cylinders to confirm my suspected error of bending the valves on the left bank (1,3,5) not too sure what else to do. Also checked the plug wires pretty sure they are right... Sure timing is right since it’s running. [emoji2369]. Not sure if it would or how it would run if the cam was a tooth off. I am also pretty sure the tooth count on time belt was correct

Haven’t really dove back in. Washed her up and fired her up again. Yesterday Still a blinking CEL and a get rough idle low engine speeds. Can race it 2k and it’s smoother. But somethings wrong. All ready have the new head gasket set head bolts ect plus 2/3 of the left heads valve set

But due to all your guys optimism I’ll double check all my work. Make sure my plugs are plug in the right holes order vacuume lines ect... And I’ll pull the code... I know y’all are hoping for me to get lucky but I don’t think so. Thank god I am in ca with lows in the 50s. Cause I am pedaling to work. Side note. Pedaling gets great gas mileage..

Can’t fire right in the number 1 hole! I have a blinking CEL and I am sure it’s the number one cylinder.. Unfortunately I wasn’t that lucky... took it apart in a improper stroke and the cam lobe pressure due to springs.. forced the number 1 cyclinder valves to meet the piston. I knew the moment I heard the audible ting is bad. She’s running super roughy and won’t idle belove 1000rpm Now I am scared to run it. Don’t need that valve to break off and start pounding the pistons... New engine wasn’t in the plan for this old girl. She’s done so well