Mattmill91

Nice info. But my problems have grown severely. Gates was the water pump that failed me... does have a nice cast iron impeller. But seals where leaking. I bent valves due to my own negligence.... sad day. Pathy as made is 212k miles and 22 years faithfully (9 with me) to be fskced by me.

Love the optimism but I am pretty sure I fskced it. Cam accidentally got moved while the belt was off. I heard a audible tink. I had hoped I got lucky... After many hours of labor later.. Yeah I fskced her good all right... can’t right right in the number 1 hole.. Least how I am feeling it now.

And I screwed the &^%*ing pooch. fskced up when installing time belt... due to previous fskc up of stopping on what must of been the wrong stroke of #1 piston. F f f Just bent the valves .... “Houston we have a problem” fskc Who’s done a valve change? What should. I do now. This is @!*%..... I know pull everything I just did.. and more... @!*%aaaaay day. Time for a beer.

That out at carnagie OHV? Looks like it. Your sorta local to me!!! I am in Stockton

Awesome... great build

Also what’s a good way to get the crank shaft time belt gear off. And same with the camshaft... going in to replace them seals. While I am this deep. fskc might be easier to pull is. Drop a reman black in it. Then reinstall. That I take wasn’t fun. And I cut those lines.

Rear line is about to blow. Worth to pull it. Damn it’s going to be a real pain to reassemble. Any tips. [emoji38]

Going deep today. Intake mani pulled. Thoughts. Worth to pull the runners as well to. De grease. Get to the other valve cover seals.

Just wondering what others think. Idk if it’s just some bs to sell the fan clutch too. I could understand too if I had any heating issues. Never gets over 180/190normally

I did this pump 5 or so years ago less then 25k miles. She started dumping water.. last week. What else should I do this time? I did the time belt kit and pump together.. Few months ago popped a water line on the rear of the engine.. from block to intake line. I see thrrr are 3 or so more lines back there. At first I thought it was the bypass hose (looks rather of a real pain) decided to pop since it’s a old truck and rubber doesn’t last. But after tearing in to it today it’s the water pump. Was a Gates branded water pump... What’s everyone think of brands out there? Also some pages saying the link of the fan clutch could effect the water pump longevity . (Never has a cooling issue longs as there’s water in it) Other possible thought is that when it got hot the first time it popped the rear side water like that over heating caused a compromised water pump shaft seal then was more likely to fail here 2/3 months later and (2k miles).

Part number for a over length bilstine? Are the billstine worth it over the pro comp? Are there a longer kyb options? Haven’t had any trouble with KYB. Have replaced damn near everything on the truck 4 springs 4 wheel bearings Shocks / struts Rear trailing links Front control arms Sway bar links Sway bAr mount bushin

Have Considered the sway bar removal? But wasn’t sure how negatively it could affect on road performance.. I don’t have OME springs all around so longer should could take advantage of the height. Think the stock ones I got are basically always topped out..

After closer inspection of the video it does appear that right rear is spinning... much like every one has described.. evidence being some dirt being tossed back from that tire.. So everything should be ok functionally. But it seems like a pretty lame system... tightening up the lsd.. appears to be some work. Think I have read somthing about adding shins to the clutch pack. So the rear end clutch pack is just allowing the tractionless wheel to spin while the weighted one doesn’t? If I am following correctly.

It is a 97 se. And has a LSD in the rear.. with a manual tranny and manual hubs up front. I didn’t check the other side. LSD has been making some odd engagement sounds when going from stop to hard turns.. I have been stuck on a snow bank before with only the front left and back right spinning.. Thanks everyone y’all rock!!

So couple weeks back was out playing after doing some shooting in the woods of centeral Oregon.. With the girl friend driving I noticed this. When going from stop to slow drive up hill. The fronts wheels spun but the rear didn’t. It appears the torque travels like water and takes the path of least resistance.. I believe it was in 4low.. What’s going on here and is there any way to correct it.. or is it just the nature of the system due to not having any lockers and not really being a hard core 4wd. Thanks just looking some knowledge!

So much yes!

It’s a toy... it’s a ooo fskc moment. Soo DO IT

I did use whitline on this last time I hopefully have todo it. The ones speced on Rockauto are complete crap. Cutting burning is really ****** nasty. Burn out rubber.. Then cut the outter shell with a die grinder peel and pull out

I say. Pull them all and take em to a shop to press them out.. and press in the new ones? Witch ones did you get? I have done this 3 times allready because sub par parts. Are you new ones 2 piece?

Yeah. Press is surely the easiest way todo. Cutting , burning, suck. Press and a variety of large sockets with a few pieces of steel to push the bushing though

I just did the easy side this evening. Luckily that was the only side leaking like crazy. It had a big break in the gasket witch was hard as a rock. Lucky I have had a new sitting on the shelf..

Any ideas on why some are dirtier then others... First time open since factory I would think... changed the gasket.. would any of this benefit cleaning? Or would that make things worse? Def some sludge up there.... but I bet there is a lot worse out their.

So new sway bar link is installed.. With the front control arms and some Manual hubs plus another set of chamber bolts... fun this evening..

Sad I messed up the new cv boot an clamp.. [emoji849] Now I know what it sounds like to snap a sway bar link. It’s didn’t take much. Hard left turn and steep up down parking lot street transition