bigmatt

Hey guys, I've been experiencing the same issue's as the above post and have seen some of the same complaints about the coil packs ins the VQ35 pathfinders. I figured I'd do some experimenting and start a write-up as the what the codes are and what the fix is. Current symptoms: Vehicle runs rough when the SES light is blinking Once warmed up the SES light turns on solid and the vehicle runs fine. SES code p1320 (ignition signal primary) SES code p0302 (misfire 2cyl) Diagnosis: Engine is not firing on 1 or more cylinders due to either a bad coil pack or spark plug. Fix: I am starting with new plugs. From what I read, NGK irridiums are the recommended plug. If this does not fix the issue I will replace the coil packs and report back. I replaced the plugs last night and all 6 were gapped between .070 and .080 (spec is .044). I also swapped coil pack 2 (suspect coil) with coil pack 6 to see if the problem follows the coil pack. The engine didn't miss when I started it up. A trip around the block showed no significant power increase and it didn't run any smoother than prior th the misfire issue's. Of course it never ran poorly except when it threw the misfire code so I wasn't expecting a huge improvement here. One question on the coil packs. From what I read, the dealer sells them for about $100 each. NAPA sells them for $72 for P/N ECHIC460 (cylinder 1) and $79 for P/N ECHIC457 (cylinder 2-6). An ebay vendor sells the full set for $220 under P/N 22448-8J115 which is manufactured by Karyln/STI. Now for some questions: Has anyone used any of the parts listed above? The set for sale on EBAY says it's compatible with Any VQ35DE engine, however NAPA has a different part # for the coil packs for the 02 maxima and the 02 pathfinder (the only two I checked on the NAPA website. Others may also be different). Are the coil packs from any VQ35DE engine compatible? Is there a reason that coil 1 is different than coils 2-6? Coil packs 1 through 6 all have the same part number (22448 4W000) and have NISSAN stamped on the side. The one difference is the connector location. The connector for coils 2-6 is on the side of the coil pack, while the connector for coil 1 is on the top. At this point I am going to order the set of 6 off EBAY and worst case I will have to order the #1 coil through NAPA. Then I will always have a spare. Any confirmed information is appreciated. I'll also include a write-up on the replacement once all the information is figured out. Bigmatt

During my past oil change all bot 1 of the bolts holding the plastic splash guard on broke off at the head leaving the threaded portion flush with the surface of the subframe. I'd like to replace the plastic guard with a front skid plate, but I need to know if any of the skid plates on the market use the 10mm bolts to durring installation? I see that Black Panther is still out of order and from what I hear AC skids are not very durable. Are there any other options? If not I may just fab them myself. Thanks, Bigmatt

I'm not interested in the spacers, but for material, check this out http://www.yarde.com/cgi-bin/dropzone.pl You can pick up drops for pretty cheap, even with the cost of shipping. Bigmatt

I have Kuhmo AT KL78's on my 01 Pathfinder in size 255-70-16. Only very slight rubbing in reverse when on a side hill. The tires haver performed well for me, At 12 PSI they have made it up every sand dune I have thrown it at and on the trail (mostly sand and gravel) they also perform well. Never had it in deep mud so I can't comment. They do perform great on the road, decent ride even at 40 PSI and very quiet. Bigmatt

Xterra is body on frame, much easier to work with. If I were to do this, I would build a subframe into a set of rock sliders and attach this subframe to the stock running board mounts with braces going to the front subframe mounts. Ditch the front subframe and build a support for the engine mount. Use this "frame" to support a wristed radius arm front suspension. You'd have to run a fair amount of lift to clear the oil pan, but it looks like you want more lift so that would not be a problem. Use the strut towers to mount your springs/coilovers. Steering would be the hardest part. Full hydraulic would be the easiest solution, but it's not street legal. Anyway, That is what I would do. Bigmatt

Pics of the bumper, mount and skid plates? I'm assuming you're looking for a stock bumper to trade for these? Bigmatt