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Everything posted by SquadCarPathfinder

  1. As the title states, I am looking for a good replacement for the upper spring seats for the rear suspension. For the lower seat (coil to axle), I plan to just look for a spring sleeve. The Diameter of the springs is about 2.75-2.80" so I hope its not hard to find one. The upper however is just super cracked and coming apart. If anyone has any replacement ideas, (including using newer Nissan spring seats), let me know what you have run. If you have ARB coils also let me know how they feel. I currently have Cheap Monroe Blue Body Shocks but plan to buy Bilstein 5100s or 4600s in the future.
  2. So as title states, I am having an intermittent issue with my turn signal. My right side stalk will work. But will not return to a neutral state once the turn is completed. It doesn't happen on right turns only. Doesn't matter how little or how big the turn is, it doesn't return to neutral. I removed the stalk to check for damage but I didn't find anything wrong with the tabs that actually trigger the switch off. Any thoughts or ideas? Thanks!
  3. Hey everyone! So I replaced just about everything in my front suspension over the last couple months. Sway bar, tie rods, center link, shocks, idler arm re-greased and torqued. I am going to need an alignment for sure but I just don't know 100% about what I can do or what can be adjusted. I tried searching up on the forums the basics on WD21 Suspension Alignment but couldn't find an all inclusive guide. I cranked up the torsion bars a bit because it was sagging. Sagged a little bit more on the left so i cranked it a little. From the top of the tire (235/75R15) to the bottom of the fender flare I measured about 3in each side. I have 1mm spacers on each UCA which I may have to remove with the added height. I can see quite a bit of positive camber and I am going for neutral. I have new all season touring tires on each corner because I only daily this rig. From my understanding, we have the toe in toe out on the tie rods. Front ride height is controlled by the torsion bars, with consideration to the camber effect on the UCAs. (Lift will result in added negative camber while lowering will result in added positive camber. The UCAs can add or subtract camber angle based on the amount of shims added or subtracted. (Adding shims will add positive camber while removing will result in less camber. Let me know what is wrong, what is correct, and what you all do maybe at home in the garage or driveway. Dealership is asking more than I am willing to give them for something like this. Looking to learn basically. Thanks!
  4. Thanks to everyone who replied to the topic! The center link I had purchased from eBay was the problem. Replaced the no name with a Moog DS80594 center link. Now everything works and I was able to line up the studs, torque, and actually insert the cotter pins in. Next is to send it to the alignment bay!
  5. This is error from the seller cause the tie rods are confirmed good and correct. I looked up the part number for my tie rod end assemblies and it is meant for the 93 and up pickups and pathfinders. Center Link is just not the quality it needs to be I guess? I'm sure it would be cheaper to buy a set of inner links, but if this center link really is just crap (no brand name) quality, then I'm gonna try ordering a new center link :\. Any complaints about the Moog DS80594? Looking to snatch that from amazon and if it doesn't fit then I have no problem sending it back.
  6. So as the title says I'm having an issue connecting the inner tie rod to a new center link I purchased. I tighten down the inner stud 65ft-lbs like the service manual I have says. But only like 1 thread is exposed above the nut and i am about 2-3 complete turns away from being able to put the cotter pin into the hole. The service manual claims 40-72ft-lbs but I don't want to try and tighten the nut more. I am using OEM tie rod ends but an eBay center link. I don't want to have to buy a new center link if I can make this one work. Anyone else come across this issue? Thanks! Edit: The seller on eBay says this is intended for the post 92 Hardbodies and Pathfinders of the W/D21 chassis. So the fitment should be correct.
  7. To be honest I did that to myself with a rear door and forgot to reattach the lock rod. My guess is that for your front door, you'd need to take out the seat, and remove the door panel while the door is closed. Its not fun when you don't have much room to work with.
  8. I have been to NissanPartsDeal before and ordered something which was not listed as discontinued. There are prices and you can add items to the cart but it doesn't guarantee they will have it.
  9. Like the title says, I am looking for a discontinued part. Specifically PN 54613-41G00. I know I can get some poly bushings to replace the rear sway bar bushing, but I would rather have factory-ish bushings. Would R50 rear sway bar bushings be able to fit? Any help appreciated.
  10. Thanks to everyone who replied. Actually was able to get a spare cover from the junkyard. But as I replaced the original spare tire with a new 235/75/r15, cover no longer fits. If anyone wants it, I have one available with the zipper mostly intact. Has a popped seam or two, but not in the worst condition
  11. Yes that is what I am looking to get a replacement for. I plan to powdercoat my tire carrier and put a new label. And the 4x4 Instructions in my XE was just a sticker fixed to the sunvisor. But I cannot find my original one for the life of me.
  12. Anyone have any original labels for the wd21? Two I am looking for is the caution label for the spare tire carrier and the label for the 4x4 Instructions. I am looking to see if maybe we could compile photocopys of the original labels for everyone to have access to? I wanna have a new label for the tire carrier after I powder coat it black.
  13. Hey everyone! My center console has some shimmy in it at the slightest lean. I found that the retainers that the console screws into are loose and the metal is a little bet outta shape. Anybody have a part number for those pieces that keep the console tight? They go just underneath the center console box with the lid. I'm sure many other experience this.
  14. As the ad states. Want to buy a Spare Tire Cover with the original logo in good shape. Someone locally has it in a part out in pretty good condition. Wants 100 bucks. Maybe someone else could provide? Mine is coming apart and I miss the look of the black vinyl. Its become more of a gray due to california sun. Thanks!
  15. Id also like to know what is possible faults to check for. I got a misfire and i have occasional rough starts with a shaky idle for a couple seconds. the ECU gave me a code 51 for injector circuit. injectors were replaced, fuel filter replaced. it did help a little bit. im planning spark plugs next
  16. So as the title says, I am trying to remove outer weatherstrip. I have new parts from Thailand ready to install. How do I remove the old ones though? Just ask the Matco Guy for a tool? Or is there a way to git'er done at home? Thanks!
  17. I know the knock sensor is used for advancing or retarding the ignition, but would it not being connected cause bad fuel economy and perhaps light power loss?
  18. So a while back I had replaced the injectors of my pathy. And upon removal of the lower plenum, we learned that the knock sensor had been removed and the wire had been folded back and taped to the rest of the harness. my dad told me that it had apparently been there since we had owned it. We have owned it since my parents bought it used from the mazda dealer. would it cause any kind of reduced fuel economy to not have it? would it also explain why if i had any knocking problems that the knocking wouldnt reduce or stop?
  19. I wouldn't plan on doing anything TOO crazy but maybe something closer to the 300zx tune or just switch the computer entirely if i ever feel like it. Would it be cheaper and easier to just change the injectors and pulleys to the ones from the vg33e and supercharge it? I honestly would just love a good throttle response and pep from a daily driver. Not looking for insane horsepower, looking to have those couple seconds of bliss when pulling onto the freeway ramp.
  20. Like I know that I obviously would sacrifice how long of a life i could get out of my pathy, but I've always been curious as to what would be the minimum requirements for a somewhat reliable/boosted daily pathfinder. I have confidence in the block but was never sure about much else. IF i wanted to turbo my pathy using the 300zx manifolds, turbo, and injectors...
  21. You havent had any problem with the Moog joints leaking grease? I read some reviews on amazon about them on their d21 claiming at full lock it exposed the grease pocket inside.
  22. Just wanted to ask up to what horsepower are the stock internals are rated for? I've heard of some nuts being able to get z31s up to 600hp on stock internals. I don't know about reliably though. While on the topic, how different are the pathfinder engines in comparison to z31s? Head difference, timing, etc. Any and all details appreciated.
  23. So changing the ignition coil plug wire fixed the initial startup issue and weak response. Should I put that conductive gel on each end of that wire so it doesn't corrode easily? Or does it not matter?
  24. I think i found the problem, during class i disconnected the ignition coil before conducting a test. Found that it was very chalky, white, and the connector was broken and corroded. I am gonna be replacing the ignition coil and coil plug wire.
  25. So I was in class the other day conducting a manual load test on our battery, and when It came time for my turn, my starting sounded like it wanted to start as if fuel was in the system. In short it sounded very erratic and didnt crank as the other cars did. Could the starter be weak or be causing the problem stated above?

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