SquadCarPathfinder

I think i found the problem, during class i disconnected the ignition coil before conducting a test. Found that it was very chalky, white, and the connector was broken and corroded. I am gonna be replacing the ignition coil and coil plug wire.

So I was in class the other day conducting a manual load test on our battery, and when It came time for my turn, my starting sounded like it wanted to start as if fuel was in the system. In short it sounded very erratic and didnt crank as the other cars did. Could the starter be weak or be causing the problem stated above?

I actually had a similar problem with one of my own accessories. I bought a belt online from Amazon and it said it would fit the A/C pulley, but after i put it on it sounded like I had installed a supercharger. Turns out that the belt was so tight the tensioner pulley in the middle was so tight i couldn't adjust it.

So my illumination rheostat has been lighting up intermittently and the rest of the switches, (Hazard switch, Defogger), dont illuminate when i turn the lights on. I am actually not sure about if the defogger switch has a functioning light as well as an indicator light, but i know the rheostat and hazard switch have lights. A couple weeks ago I installed an OEM ash tray light and after that, the lights never tried coming back on. The ash tray light works, but the illumination rheostat and hazard dont turn on with the rest of the dash lights. Any ideas on why?

Yeah it had a recent tuneup, (as well as intake gaskets replaced, all fuel injectors replaced). Would a missing knock sensor cause something else with things like this? I found a cable behind the intake and it looks like it could have gone to a knock sensor. I am not sure if was missing from factory because i didnt put the intake manifold back my father did.

I think it might be the cracked exhaust stud as sometimes when I start it up I get a ticking noise from the driver side. But how would that cause a rough idle?

Not sure if anyone was having a mysterious coolant leak but I thought I would bring this to attention to anyone else who had it. So a couple months back i was having cooling problems and near overheating problems. I popped the hood to see what was going on but I couldn't find where the leak was from since there was dried coolant residue and no apparent leak. Upon further inspection, me and my father found that there was a crack in the small elbow hose connected to the intake manifold above the thermostat. It was cracked and dried and caused coolant to splash all over the engine bay. we couldn't find anywhere else to acquire a fitting hose other than the dealer. But it you wanted to, you would have to find an elbow that fits onto the fittings.

So I have a small problem. On occasion ill start up my pathy and itll take maybe an extra couple seconds of crank time. Battery and Alternator are new. And on other times, she will start up and have a rough idle, then set off the MIL. If i rev it up a little bit the idle will smooth out and turn of the MIL. Any thoughts?

Thought this thread was dead but i guess I was wrong . I was thinking about it but I think I'll leave my rear end as it is. And I think I am fine for the time being since my dad and I got brembo rotors for the front along with new pads. Thanks for the responses, I'll probably be posting more of these threads if i think of anything interesting for restomodding our vintage rust buckets .

I saw that there was a couple connectors under the dash and the widest connector looks like it can connect to a computer or OBD Scanner. Is there any adapter or some sort which I can connect to an OBD2 scanner or such? And my pathfinder is the 95 so it has that "onboard diagnostics" with mode settings.

I fixed my engine. What it needed was to have the TPS (throttle position sensor) set to the proper idle speed. Set the TPS using a voltmeter set to millivolts. I dont know exactly how to word it but I think there is a thread somewhere here on how to set it. Once you are able to adjust it, move the sensor so that at warmed up idle, the RPMS will be around 750. I can't say for sure it will fix the problem but if your situation is similar to mine it may help.

Yeah you were right. The reason it blinked was because it was set to the Code reader. I set it to mode 4, turned it off. And then put the key in the ignition and i guess the CEL IS supposed to be on. So I guess im worrying for nothing and all is Good! Amazing this car has lasted this long.

I cleared the ECU again to see what the light would do. I turned it to ON another time and it blinked 5 times. I turned it off and then back on and the CEL was solid. Maybe I am just getting finicky.

So I tried to adjust the TPS by voltage resistance. During idle I set it to 0.36V and it sounded better than the high idle it used to have. The idle after warmup and in park is about 750rpm. I know that the later VG33Es from the frontier and xterra are set to around .45V but when I set my pathy to that it sounds high and sends the RPM to around 1300. I also have the question about a CEL when i set the car to ON? There is no stored codes, and when I clear it with the ECU, after I start it, it comes back on. I know that other cars show the check engine light when you turn the key to ON. But when I had nothing wrong with the car all that would show is the ABS light and battery light.

Okay so I eliminated the EGR valve as a problem. I have diagnosed the symptoms of a TPS sensor issue. I know that the sensor works but I need to readjust it. I just don't know the recommended resistance it should be set to. The Service manual I have says for Automatic transmission the "Engine speed (at idle in "N" position) +250+-150rpm"

Can you explain more what the pintle is? And regarding the TPS adjustment my pathy is the 95 model so i have the 3.0 and the TPS sensor looks completely different. How would I go about checking if the EGR is properly seated? It is supposed to have a gasket that connects to the intake plenum if i remember correctly.

The idle didn't change at all so we went to tighten the screws and I snapped the head off the top adjusting screw. Luckily my father is taking next week off to work on it. I've been thinking maybe the EGR isn't functioning properly but it shouldn't be causing the hesitation on the highway right?

I checked the TPS and it didnt have corrosion. I installed another new one just to check. It felt fine at first, but the problem came back again after driving several miles. I've cleared the ECU just to check it wasn't just that, but every time I start the car and turn it off, the check engine light comes back when in the ON position. Is there anything at all that could cause the engine to run so badly? Horrible mileage, high idle....still no codes stored...

Might be, I popped the hood and wiggled the throttle where the cable connects and the rpms dropped. Though when i tried to push it down a little bit, it didnt go further. Do I need to reposition the sensor so that it reads properly? Or just disconnect and reconnect the sensor?

So recently my dad and I just replaced a bunch of vacuum hoses and coolant lines after replacing injectors, driver side rocker cover gasket, and to do that we had to remove the intake plenum and the distributor cap. Cold start idle is at 1200, after warmed up it settles to about 850-700rpm, but after driving around a little bit I come back home, and set it to park and the idle jumps up to 1500rpm. The actual timing done by the timing belt is fine, we just set the distributor timing indicator to 15 degrees as the FSM says, but it still jumps up to 1500rpm after a little drive and then a park. The A/C isn't on and I am thinking it could be the Idle Air Control Valve (the valve near the firewall on the intake and a small screw for a adjustment). Hoping to know if anyone has any experience with this after a similar repair. Any help is appreciated.

Im planning to replace some hoses and clamps in the engine bay. I am going to amazon and buying some adjustable hose clamp sets. But I am not totally sure where would be a reliable place to get hose replacements. I am right now looking to get some hose replacements for the valve cover breathers, maybe others.

Im new around here and just been kinda lurking. And I've understood that the 300zx turbo from the 80s has pretty much the same setup as a pathy's engine but with a turbo. Just curious if anyone has converted a pathy into a turbo build by swapping the ECU, installing a ZX turbo manifold and running it just from the ZX ecu stock? What would be the pros and cons? I have just so many ideas just from theory.

After seeing how filthy my engine bay has been, I've been wanting to spray degreaser and power wash it. I have been hesitant though because there are plenty electronics exposed. I looked at our 1999 Maxima engine bay in comparison and it has a couple boxes and covers for the relays. I know its an older car and maybe it was something they thought of after, but has anyone made any DIY relay and fuse covers or boxes similar to ones on other newer models? If so I would like to try something of that nature.

Would I also have to replace the outter grease seals before I put the new axles in? I dont think they would be broken

It has the orange label that says to only use LSD oil. Would i have an issue with the conversion with it?