wmj259

Ordered a swirl valve from the dealer for about 100 few bucks. Will get it today.

You can do it yourself if you want. There should be DIY's and if you need fabric hope into Jo-anns fabric.

On the drive status (lights for if I am in 4WD 2WD RWD). It happens on all the drives. I think I may flush the transmission to see if that helps.

I called a locksmith, he came in. I told him that I changed the ECM. He initialized the immobilizer and the car started up soooo smoothly with a purr. The code for a swirl solenoid is coming up, but I read that the code needs to be erased for it to turn the CEL off. I also asked him if he could do the relearning of the TB and idle stuff. He did that. Also he scanned a Honda Element for me and was insisting on the same price as on the phone for $125. If anyone needs a recommendation in MD, I say call Victory Auto Lock. I am having a jerking issue now. When I put my foot on the gas a little bit it jerks. Could be because I didnt reset the CEL? I just reset the CEL. Will test drive again. Any thoughts ?

I scanned the car, and am getting 3 codes P1610-NATS Malfunction P1615-NATS Malfunction P1131-Swirl Control Solenoid Valve. ???? I just tried to perform a P1610 Nissan Lock Mode Escape. (turn on ignition for 5 secs and turn off, repeat 3 times total. I noticed whenever I have the Key to ON the security light is on solid.

I changed up the connector plug, so I started doing the pedal and throttle body relearning. Its not starting up, I think the computer needs programming. Dealer wants $1k+. Anyone ideas?

Went to a junkyard this morning, and pulled myself a connector from another nissan, same exact wire colorings on both mine the donor. Will do that today and get the ECU programmed.

Will the vehicle have to be brought in also or I can just pass them the computer.

Will I be able to pull the wires out from the old connector and shove into a replacement one? Or I gotta cut and splice?

Gonna take a stroll at a pull-yard and make a big wish that I find something for that connector.

Also I may add that the remote works in opening the door locks. Does the key still need initializing? I can do that know if it does. The key does crank the vehicle if that makes a difference. I disconnected the connector that goes to the valve to do the tests shown in this video.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYuRKzsqp-g I am getting the 12 volts from the battery in the middle column, but for resistance I am getting only 20 in the testings as the video has 30. Maybe different model? I noticed when looking at the plug it was burned/melted. Here's some pics. Could this be the issue? http://i.imgur.com/DUyFzqH.jpg http://i.imgur.com/rae5vg4.jpg http://i.imgur.com/67Zebbx.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Kci8yE4.jpg http://i.imgur.com/w4THMkP.jpg

I don't have a Consult2 reader. Am I out of luck?

Has happened to me, but I dont know what fried my ECU.

I am new to this issue, why would the ECU be fried? I am having almost the same problems. Idle was so jumpy, and had my ecu repaired from Module Repair Pro.

Any updates? Was your idles jumpy?

Any update to this issue?

How do I know if the computer even has programming on it?

That could be the case, I just had this same problem with my VW Passat. Will try tomorrow or Monday. But damn, 20 times???? . I tried doing a ECU reset (not sure if thats what its called) I had to turn the key to on position, wait 3 seconds and then within 5 seconds press the gas pedal and release. Then wait 7 seconds, hold the gas pedal for 10 seconds..........................yada yada. Tried to look through my history to find that link. Not sure if that process ^^^^^^(Above) was applicable to me?

Hello, New to the forum, but I have tried googling these things. I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder V6. I sent it off for repair because the computer was "burned" (it was black). (I am asking my dad what had been done so these are his words). So we sent it off for repair had it repaired and coded and it was sent back. So after plugging it back in the RPM wouldn't steady out it would rise and die down repeatedly. Called the repairer for what he did on the computer and we said to change the motherboard and he programmed it. Same issue. I had thought the key would be the problem so i called a locksmith who programmed the key, and I asked him to program the computer since he said he could. He did that and same issue with rpm, I told him about it and he got mad and deleted everything on the computer (I assume since it won't start now.) I have the computer and it looks like Module Repair Pro fixed it. http://www.shop.modulerepairpro.com/. Thinking it needs reprograming now. Any clue?