Macrow
-
Posts
144 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Macrow
-
-
Pic of the other solenoid as you can see in the photo's as well the difference in the size of each of them as well as depth on each of the brackets.
-
Here yo can see where it looks like it isn't attached properly & this is one out of my pathfinder tried to get the markings on this photo & of the next photo which is of the other solenoid.
-
-
One on the right is the one that came out of my pathfinder which I noticed to that looks like the little clip part of the metal bracket is not positioned in right spot to stay in it's slot on solenoid which will show in a different picture.
-
Importperformancetrans.com
Thanks will check them out!
Getting my picks uploaded into photobucket now so I can load here let me know what your thoughts are if you would please? Thanks!
-
I think I have pictures of the solenoids in my re4r01a rebuild thread.
Unless there is a better or cheaper route for ordering this I am all ears on that as well. Will get my pics taken & uploaded shortly for the comparison on the other Solenoid shortly. Thanks again.
-
I think I have pictures of the solenoids in my re4r01a rebuild thread.
Ok, thanks I will have a look & see & I haven't ordered the Power Torque Automatic Transmission Control Solenoid yet & the other one came out of a 1995 XE AT 3.0 4x4 Pathfinder I will take some pics shortly & post to give an idea on that one. For what I need to purchase still just was wanting to check & see which ones I should get I was actually just looking at the local part stores in my town here are the links for them.
-
May as well change it if you have the parts. I have had a few wd21's and never had the knock sensor fail. If it were me I would give it a good cleaning down there and replace all the rubber like you're planning. Maybe the bypass hose if you can reach it from there.
As far as knock sensor goes I noticed on my 1995 XE when fixing some things yesterday on it that it appeared to have the plug unattached to anything just hanging there which was also the case on my other 1995 XE that ended up being the case with it as well. Is the only way to access this to remove the intake or is there another way to locate it? I know with the 1995 XE that was parted out I was unable to even locate where it was on it unless they had relocated it somewhere else which either way it was still not plugged in anyway just as my current one is not either.
-
FINAL THOUGHTS...
Finally, another successful thread.
My problem was, in fact, one of the injectors.
The injectors were too expensive to purchase new and 5 of my 6 injectors failed the "inductance Test" so they could not been cleaned/fixed and re-installed.
So, I found a junk yard on ebay that were pulling, cleaning & selling injectors sets and with a bit of discounting got the entire set for around $150.
The Pathfinder is now running better than ever and the irony is that I purchased an Xterra, thinking that I would not find the problem on the Pathfinder.
Ive gone from NO truck to TWO and I have not only enjoyed researching the Xterra but have come to appreciate my Pathfinder even more.
Is it just me or on Youtube does it seem difficult to find a 1st gen Pathfinder getting stuck in the mud, yet in almost every Xterra video someone is getting stuck. Is the Pathfinder that superior or are the people driving the Xterras that inferior. haha
Heres a good one...
I know with my 1995 XE Pathfinder She has impressed me like no other before getting my first 1995 XE Pathfinder I was steering away from getting one. I am glad something made me change my mind & now on my second 1995 XE Pathfinder. Which both have gone places & through some pretty extreme conditions that a lot of people having only stock with the exception of tires would probably not have attempted to go yet I did without any problems at all. They both proved to be climbing machines & looking forward to being able to Mod my current one once all other areas have been addressed & see what else she can do!
-
Old Maid
-
SO was going to replace my Power Torque Solenoid on my 1995 XE AT 3.0 4x4 Pathfinder yesterday. Once I was getting ready to swap it out with one that came out of another 1995 XE AT 3.0 Pathfinder I noticed a slight bit of difference between the 2 of them which was the one that came out of mine appeared to be a bit wider then the other one as well as the brackets attached to each of them were slightly off from each other as far as depth looked like it would set them into place.
Has anyone else come across this issue or know anything about it as to why they could be different from each other if they are both out of the same year make & model as one another? Just not wanting to move forward on this without looking into it further.
With that being said it also looks like the Power Torque Automatic Transmission Control Solenoid has 2 different options for those. Is there a certain one that I need to use for my 1995 XE or are they both compatible with it? Just not sure if it will be the same type of thing as the Power Torque Solenoid where there is slight bit of difference between the 2?
Any help any members here can give on this would be greatly appreciated to help put me in the right direction on this. I know it may be something that I am just looking to far into & they may all work for it but being that there was a difference in size & depth on the brackets each had it threw up a flag for me to look into it a little bit more before moving along. Thanks.
-
At least you didn't have a stranger break yours.
Lol! Yes, or in my situation it was the tire shop that ripped mine off while I was there which they offered to fix for me. However being the reason I was there in the first place was to give them a good taste of what I thought of them. I told them no thanks considering they were the cause of what happened to me since they seemed to be not paying attention or caring about there job which I soon heard many other stories about them as well. In my case it was me driving through Montana 60+ mph dead of winter in December during a blizzard the weekend of them being put on when what I thought was a simple flat tire. Boy was I wrong get out to change it only to see to tire on my Pathy & only a couple of the studs left while tire & all were back down the road laying in median. Seems to be they over torqued my tire when put the new ones on lets just say I was not happy nothing like throwing on a spare in that weather amazingly enough managed to keep control of her when it all happened. So yeah I settled for them paying for the repairs on tire & new studs at another shop & stayed cleared of them attempting to fix door handle Lmao!
But as everyone else here has said yes pretty easy fix & a couple of bolts to get the job done & I would say the same thing as PathyAndTheJets better grab a couple of them cus in my case not long after tire shop broke mine off the other one was not to much later when it broke off.
-
Sounds like it could maybe be the starter if you are hearing a clicking sound coming from it or maybe bad ground connection on the starter or bad connection coming from the starter where it connects to the battery. If not that possibly a a bad ignition switch & may have a bad connection from one of the wires on the backside of the ignition switch. Other then that I'm not sure without hearing more details on what it is doing let us know if you get it fixed good luck.
-
@PathyAndTheJets The shocks were just cheaper ones which I would have to agree is the problem on that as well since at the time was all I could do for it. However, next replacement will certainly be spending the extra money into a much better set for sure. I guess that goes right along with the saying you get what you pay for.
I have heard of quite a few other swap outs as well on these transmissions & haven't heard of anything like that before until I was at a couple different Bone yards looking for a few parts for in the cab & had brought up transmissions & if they had any there that would work with my 1995 XE. Each of these said the same thing when looking up to see compatible years for it & that depending on the month they were built made the difference as to what I could use. Along with saying that it was only like that just on the 1995 Pathfinders & wasn't like that for the other years.
I am wondering if that may be the case since today when I went to switch out Solenoids in the transmission pan they were different from each other mine seemed to be a bit wider on part of it & didn't have a ground connected to it while the other one was narrower on part of it & had the extra ground wire with the eyelid coming off of it. The one I was looking to put in mine also came out of a 1995 XE AT 3.0 4x4 just like mine just not sure of the build date of the one I was hoping to replace mine with.
-
Welcome!
-
I would have to agree with Cuong Nguyen on this one as well. Certainly sounds like someone had to rig up something to try & make it work for the time being probably was lost on them. I am not seeing it showing anything like that in the Manual either so would say yes, It is a job done by someone in an attempt to make what they had work for the job.
-
I have gotten to know & understand a good deal about working on both of the 1995 Pathfinders which I am down to just one of now. I have done all of the work myself with a little help as needed from a couple mechanic friends of mine if needed. With that being said I know there are things out there which I have yet to tackle & don't have the experience with working on certain problems that may come up on the Pathy. I have been dealing with multiple issues going on with my 95XE AT 3.0L 4x4 Pathfinder which was built in July of 1994 according to the VIN Tag & this is my daily driver. The VG30E motor in it Came out of a my 1995XE AT 4x4 built in September of a 1994 which I no longer have. I do have most part off of the Pathy built in July as well on hand if need be which brings me to my first question
I have been going back & forth on this question lately. As far as the Diagnostic box under the passenger seat goes would it have any affect on anything with reading the codes properly as to which box I should be using with it? I know that each of them Have different Model numbers on them & was curious if this could possibly have an affect on it read the codes differently with the motor from the other 95 being in my current 95?
One reason for my first question which is leading to my next question here is while looking around for a transmission replacement I have been told that this only applies to the 1995's & have been told this from multiple places as well. With my current one being built in July of 1994 I was told I could only use one built from Jan.1994-end of July 1994 & If pathfinder built in September 1994 could only pull from one built from August 1994-December 31, 1994. Seemed rather odd to me so I wanted to see if anyone here has heard this before or has a piece of mind to shed some light on this for me. The transmission is about the only thing that I haven't done myself yet on my current 1995. I know that these can be a pain in the butt to repair from what I have been reading about lately & also don't want to get into the replacement project only to find out I have gone with wrong one.
Next question is while driving anywhere I have been hearing almost like a rattle sound of some sort & which sounds to be as if it is coming from under the dash somewhere. It only seems to do this when pushing down on the gas pedal & accelerating & once I let off of the pedal it begins to go away & won't come back until I accelerate again. Has anyone had to deal with anything like this or know what could be the cause of it? I just can't seem to pin point it & it does only seem to do this when physically driving down the road & not while in Park or Neutral I was thinking possibly something to do with the blower for the heater but I don't know how this could cause that to react to the problem.
Next is that I have still been having issues with my idle fluctuating on it after it warms up it goes down to about .850 but then every so often it will jump up to about 1500 & bounces back up & down eventually going back down to .850. It also has been starting to Rev fairly high before kicking in to shift gear which shifts hard & mostly does this while going from 1st to 2nd & occasionally from 2nd to 3rd. Once driven for awhile it will slowly begin to shift better with much smoother shifting & doesn't seem to rev as high before each shift. I have also noticed that If I drive it for a short or long distance that after I shut it off the next time I get in to drive it these problems will go away on it but them sometimes come back again after the next shut down & start up that takes place.
It has been running a bit sluggish as well from time to time with not a lot of power when going up hills with higher rev while going up hill which I haven't had this problem before & used to climb hills no problem with good power doing so & not having a high rev either.
Exhaust issues which have been giving me a lot of problems & need to see what I might be able to do to fix for short term on this Girl to make her happier while being driven until I can get new one bought. The biggest issue with it right now is that almost all of the supports for exhaust are rusted away & broken leaving me not many options for where to add support on it leaving it putting a lot of tension on the motor I would say. Is there anything I can do or get to help with the support on exhaust until I am able to afford the new exhaust for her Right now it appears that the tailpipe has support still in tact & just recently the support bracket attached to top of muffler has rusted off the muffler leaving just the top bracket attached to underneath the body where the top bolt of the doughnut would bolt into. All the rest of the supports for exhaust up to the front all are rusted off with rubber not connected to anything anymore. This is leaving me not wanting to drive it much with all that tension being put on motor which leaves me to think that is the cause of a few other minor leaks in exhaust throughout.
I have been also having issues with the front shocks going out on it in a very rapid pace & they have all had the same thing go wrong with them when they go bad. I have switched & tried various manufactures for the shocks & so far they all end up being stuck fully compressed not wanting to release even the slightest bit. After going through this issue on few different shocks they all end up going out in 3 months time or less on me which is just insane if you ask me along with what the cause of this could be allowing them to be permanently compressed?
I know that with these AT Transmissions is overheating is one of the biggest problems with them going out & I have posted with some previous transmission issues on here before & have gotten a lot of great feedback as well from members. I have a couple questions on this one of which what are good external coolers that are compatible to use & where are best places to mount & install them at along with how to bypass the factory one since I have not ever had to do this before any help would be great. Also I know that it calls for ATF for the transfer case & had someone tell me that with the ATF being in there that it allows it to get much hotter then opposed to having gear oil. They said that with just the ATF it is much thinner & could be the cause of it not shifting properly I have never hear this before & was curious on it because they also said that even though it calls for ATF I should be able to add 80W90 Gear oil in it with no problem which they said they do in there Jeep that calls for ATF & they have not had any issues. Still seems rather sketchy to me & want to get some feed back & do some research on this one before even thinking of doing this.
As mentioned before I have been having the problems with hard shifting & on top of that my reverse has gone out it this 95 too like in the other 95 I had but this one just quit working unlike the other one where you could sometimes rev it up high & it would catch sometimes then reverse would engage. In this one I am driving now it just seems to have gone out & wondering if it could just be a solenoid that went bad in the transmission pan? Was also thinking is there some sort of pump for the transmission that may have gone bad on it that can easily be replaced? I know that to get into reverse there is a certain amount of pressure that it needs to have which allows it to reverse so was just curious on this? As I said earlier transmission is the one thing I have yet to tackle on her & don't have all of the knowledge when it comes to finding the source of this issue. Which is why earlier was also curious about which transmission is compatible with this one if it does boil down to needing a whole replacement but if there may be something that could be causing this that can be fixed without transmission replacement I am all ears. Could it be possibly too that maybe the transmission box inside the passenger side panel in the rear I think it is the gold box. If that goes bad would it allow just reverse to go out or would it cause it to not have it shift into any gears at all just curious on how that box functions too?
Sorry for such a long posting here but wanted to lay everything out all in one shot for you all to see since I figured was the easiest way to do so. Any help & ideas or links to pages to guide me in the right direction are greatly appreciated. You have all helped guide me in the right direction before & have always given the best pieces of advice you have as well as allowed me to build onto my knowledge with working on these Pathfinders. She has made me think quite differently about Pathfinders as for impressed me with everything I have put in front of her when off road. She has climbed up roads & things I never would have thought possible along with a few friends that I go with that own jeeps & have put a lot of money into them where they struggled to go up & I had no issues at all conquering with only running stock with just better tires put on where even many have said to me on a few roads we have gone on that they have no clue how I even made it to the top & through what we did. The way I see it is I won't say no until the road decides to tell me I can't do it which has yet to happen other then a few dings which can always be fixed & a few breaks but that's why I go fully prepared for a number of possibilities that could go wrong & plenty of spare parts. So would really like to get her up & running awesome as she did before & don't have any problem spending the time it takes to do so either beings it gives me the chance to work on things I haven't had to yet & build up the knowledge as well. Thank in advance as I do really appreciate all that yo give with support, input & answers on this site.
-
Good Post was very help full as my 95 XE Pathfinder seems to have this same problem going on which started on me last night
-
Thanks jj big shoe & no wasn't that bad at all really. I will check out those methods & see what I can come up with on the seeing if there is an exhaust leak or not. I did find one small leak the other day got that taken care of but ticking is still there so I may be in the same boat & might just have to learn to live with it but will still check for any other leaks & anything else that may lead up to that as well before that.
-
Have you checked all your spark plugs to make sure they are fully connected? I had same issue with my 95 & turned out that the spark plug in the back behind the intake wasn't pushed down in there all the way once I fixed that problem it fixed it for me. I would check all of them if you haven't done so already.
-
That is what else I am looking for input on as far as good axle but also not to pricey as well if there is something out there which will work and what might they be looking for any suggestions on this.
-
Awesome thanks for the input & tips guys I do have a stethoscope & got the problem resolved with the knocking sound. Turned out that there was a nut missing off one of the studs in the manifold my guess is just rattled loose from not being tightened all the way. There is still a mild ticking sound coming from under the hood in that same spot which we are thinking is coming from a lifter still but not 100% on that though. Again thanks for the help & hopefully now will be able to take it up to the woods on Sunday to the plane crash up in Lyons, CO.
-
So this is the issue that I am having currently I recently swapped motor's from my 95 Pathfinder with another 95 pathfinder. The 95 XE V6 VG30E 3.0 L 4WD Pathfinder I took the motor from was built in July of 94 & I put it into a 95 XE V6 VG30E 3.0 L 4WD Pathfinder that was built in May of 94. Swap went great other then oil dipstick getting stuck which we have currently removed & have new one in & working properly we have no leaks from any of the fluids at all which is great. The problem however that I am having now is when I start up the Pathfinder you can here a slight ticking sound which turns to a knocking sound which is all coming from the passenger side back towards the Firewall & the down pipe of the exhaust. The sound will stay there for a few minutes or so after first starting the engine up. Once it has run briefly & you begin to drive you can hear the ticking/knocking sound while barely accelerating when you let off the gas the sound goes away. You can also hear the sound very clearly when in park while lightly pushing down on the gas pedal. Now after you drive it for about 10 minutes or so this ticking/knocking sound begins to fluctuate all over from loud to not so loud the longer you drive it which then it almost goes completely away.
So here is my question at times it sounds like it could be a lifter going bad & other times it sounds like could be something coming from the exhaust. Has anybody else had this same problem at all & if so what was the outcome of this.
Also are there any good methods of testing that can be done to find out what is causing this sound. I do know in the FSM it mentions a few tests you can do but just not sure where to begin with them or if there are any other ways to test for what this could be caused by. Any input & help would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance.
-
Yes, that is what I did actually once got that side of the pan bolts out was able to pry the pan open and after some pulling and fishing around was a success in removing the dipstick from the pan.
-
1
-
PowerTorque Solenoid Questions
in The Garage
Posted
the other solenoid as I said came out of another 1995 XE AT 3.0 4x4 Pathfinder also so is why the difference between the two on the size and on the brackets as to depths of where each is formed to everything lines up on them.