Macrow
-
Posts
144 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Macrow
-
-
Yes, certainly is a very common issue with these doing this. On both of my 1995 XE's my door locks would unlock & lock at any random time by themselves also seemed to happen the most in cold weather more then hot weather. Changing out the front driver side control switch panel in the door arm rest fixed the issue in one of my 95's. This fix did not solve it for me in my other 95 though & the door locks still have a mind of their own & lock & unlock by themselves when they feel the need. May be something to look into on yours as well plus very inexpensive to change that out with a different one I believe I have an extra one or 2 of them for a 95 XE still here at the house now that I think about it.if you wanted to see if that solves the issue on your 95 XE.
-
So update on some things with my 95 as I was going through my wiring I did find another wire melted so that is fixed also my connectors for tps, maf & engine coolant temp sensor were looking rather rough so bought new connectors for them as well just need to install them. The one major thing I noticed was I decided to check on timing belt & everything again so did tear down the truck a good amount. Which is when I noticed my timing had jumped by a large amount which isn't good & I am not sure how it even jumped that much to be honest my tooth count was at 32 from cam to cam & appeared to be off on the passanger side cam but drivers side was in its right location. I have heard of therm jumping a tooth before but never this much at all. Which has me a bit worried how that could have happened.
Also I am trying to find out if anyone knows what the gauge sizes are for the fusible links coming off of the positive side of the battery as well as the other fusible link on passanger side right near the battery. Mine were not looking so hot & looks like the PO tried to change them before & did a horrible job of doing so. Which I am thinking could also be a cause of some of what is going on as well.
-
Gearing would throw off the speed sensor reading the same as tire size would--it's all changing the final drive ratio. And for all we know, somebody might've replaced the sensor in one truck or the other with the wrong one. Again, if your speedo was accurate before, I'd replace with the same as what you took out.
That makes sense for sure & I ended up changing the VSS out with the extra one I had once I realized that the gears were interchangeable on them which I didn't know since this was first time I have had to do one. They are quite the pain to get back in though or at least mine was anyway.
If you plug in your spare cluster, and that clock doesn't work either, there may be a power feed to the cluster that's gone out. I haven't looked at the cluster wiring in the manual, but AFAIK the clock is the only thing in the cluster that receives power with the key off, so I would expect it to have its own power feed. Unless you hit a dead end with diagnosing the other issues, or have the dash torn open anyway, I'd ignore it until the major issues are cleared up.
I haven't checked the spare cluster yet to see but will get to that today or tomorrow.
Hopefully it's just the dizzy. My only reservation there is that this isn't how they usually go--from what I've read they usually work when they're cold, then crap out as they warm up. It doesn't explain the bogging, either.
-
I am genuinely happy for you. Trans problems suck..
Now it sounds like you are on the right track. I'll just go ahead and tell you.. that sensor is a huge pain to get to. I had to go buy a tiny stubby 10mm wrench. Before that I struggled and screamed for hours..
Which sensor is a pain to get to if it is the one I have pics of on here that one is actuall quite easy to get to on my 95 but not sure if the ones I have pics of on here is the one you are referring to or not?
I might even go buy like 3 assortments of extensions and 4 or 5 ujoints. I don't really know if it's even possible but if you can slink a socket down there from the engine bay and have someone place the socket on the bolt while you break it loose from up top... wow that'd be awesome.
See what it looks like and if you can't reach it from the top then go find a short stubby 10mm ratcheting wrench. You'll be so glad you went for the ratcheting action!!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Different tooth count is likely due to different final drive ratios (HG46/43). If the speedo was correct with the sensor that was in there, I would replace it with the same. I haven't had to remove one so I'm no help there.
Was looking on a thread here in the forums on vss & it sounded like tooth count depended on what the tire size was. I know the parts guy said in the computers there it was asking what the tire size was as well but he still couldn't find info on which one i needed. I haven't ever had to change one of these out either so I am lost on it too but if the tooth count does go off of tire size like the thread from here said it makes me think one of the two I have isn't right then beings both 95's have same size tires on them.
Fluid leaking out of the res probably indicates that your res is shot but that's about it. The one on my '95 leaked from the side where there's a little ball driven in to seal a passage. My test for the booster would be to remove the line going to it, block it off, and see if the engine runs better. If it does, then you can reasonably assume that the booster's shot and you have a massive vacuum leak. Again, though, I'd be surprised if it was just that given all your other issues.
Where you said your 95 was leaking at is the same area that mine is actually leaking at as well. I will have to do the check on the booster when I get everything else back together & see what the results are one I test it.
No idea what to make of the clock, though it does make me wonder about other wiring issues. Did that quit around the same time as the issues started or has that been out for a while? Could very well be unrelated.
Clock went out months before any of this started going on so could certainly be some wiring issues which as I have been tracing lots of the wiring to see if I notice anything bad & have found a few things & fixed the wiring that had anything wrong that was found. I am not the original owner of this 95 either but I do know the PO didn't take to good of care of it & I have done a lot to get it running good again. That & it was just sitting for 2+ years outside at a shop next to the one I worked at which is more then likely why I have been coming across some wiring issues.
A bad dizzy could explain why engine and trans are both acting up--I'm pretty sure the TCU gets its tachometer signal from the dizzy.
Ok, cool I was thinking along the same lines too with bad dizzy & how that could affect engine & tranny if it was bad which I overlooked when it all started going bad on me. Thanks for the help with this as well I appreciate any input I can get.
-
Smell your transmission dip stick.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My fluid still looks just like new & smells normal as well
-
Try unplugging the maf sensor and then starting it. You won't be able to rev it past 2 or 3k rpm but it should still run.
I am not able to do this yet because it currently won't even stay running for more then 15-20 seconds if I am lucky if it even starts at all for me thinking it may be my CMPS causing some of the issues at least that is what I am thinking currently but still looking further into this though.
-
Update:
Going to switch out the VSS just to narrow things down on possible causes of my issue & because when I went to look at this as you can see the one circled where the 10mm bolt goes through was cracked completely off so needs replaced no matter what.
So I am a bit confused on which VSS need for my 95 XE auto 3.0 4x4 Pathfinder in the picture the one circled is the one that came out of my current 95 which has 20 teeth the other cam out of my other 95 XE auto 3.0 4x4 Pathfinder which was built 2 months after my current one I am driving & has 18 teeth on it. What I am confused on is they both have 235 / 75 15's on them so why would they have different VSS & which one is right or are they both wrong & which one would I need to order because the part store couldn't figure this out either.
Also looking like it could also be my CMPS that has gone out on me as well which could be what is causing it to now only fire up for a real brief moment then dies & then doesn't want to fire up anymore after that unless it sits for a bit before trying to start again.
If it is my CMPS I would need to replace the distibutor as a whole but wanting to make sure that I am correct on this?
-
There's a limp mode for the engine and a limp mode for the trans. Sounds like yours was in the trans limp mode.
If the idle bounces whenever you hit the brakes, that makes me think your brake booster might be borked and making a massive vac leak, though for that to crop up at the same time as everything else seems unlikely.
The last bit with the speedo bouncing around is odd, makes me wonder if the speed sensor might have an issue (which could be what put the TCU into limp mode). The speed sensor in a '95 is electronic, but it's just a reed switch, so I'm not sure what would make it fail like that. From the video, it looks like your dash clock is out too.
Yes, the clock on the dash is out it lights up still but does not show the numbers anymore I have tried changing the bulbs out from my back up cluster that I have out of my old 95 pathfinder but still just lights up with no numbers showing.
-
did you try wiggling the connector on the top of your MAF?
I did try wiggling the MAF connector on it when it was running before & didn't notice a difference at all. However now it doesn't even stay at Idle long enough for me to try again to see. It now just does what it shows in the video & that's the longest that it has stayed running for lately before it dies again which doesn't allow anytime for me to be able to check again unfortunately.
-
There's a limp mode for the engine and a limp mode for the trans. Sounds like yours was in the trans limp mode.
If the idle bounces whenever you hit the brakes, that makes me think your brake booster might be borked and making a massive vac leak, though for that to crop up at the same time as everything else seems unlikely.
I did notice this morning that a little bit of my brake fluid has been leaking out of the reservoir would that in turn be due to the brake booster going bad maybe?
The last bit with the speedo bouncing around is odd, makes me wonder if the speed sensor might have an issue (which could be what put the TCU into limp mode). The speed sensor in a '95 is electronic, but it's just a reed switch, so I'm not sure what would make it fail like that. From the video, it looks like your dash clock is out too.
I do have another speed sensor as well not exactly sure how to get the other one out though? I know it is back by the transfer case & has the connector that plugs in & then the 1 or 2 I believe 10 mm bolts on it which which mount it ny transfer case. When I tried to remove it to switch out I was unable to last time. Do you know is there something I must do to remove it like if I need the rear end of the ground or something? Since it has what looks like a gear on it not sure if there is a trick or something that needs to be done to get it to pull out & be removed?
-
I was thinking possibly the Transmission Control on the passenger side behind the rear paneling. Ido have an extra ECU which came out of another 95 XE & was only built 2 months after mine. I will check that out tomorrow after work & see maybe if that fixes the problem or not. It's late now & I need to get some rest. Will let know tomorrow what I find out.
-
Boy that's weird. I don't think it's any sort of mechanical problem that I can think of. I would think a bad sensor would show a code.
Check and see if there is a TSB on something like this. Sorry I can't offer any ideas.
Yeah it is very strange actually & I have been going through evrything since I got off work earlie in the evening. Which I still have not been sable to find anything wrong or even signs of something. I have checked all the TSB's & have not found anything for this kind of issue. Back to digging for more info & a solution to this so she is able to be back on the road again. No worries on not having any ideas on this I have mentioned it to a few other friends which they all have just scratched there heads on what itt could be as well.
-
Yeah I believe so. I uploaded a video a few weeks ago and I'm pretty sure I did it like a photo.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
cool i got it loaded on here
-
Here is a link for the video of what is going on when try to start her
-
I was going to say sounds like a transmission problem but the last bit makes me think it's not.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's what I had thought from the start of everything that has happened but I had been leaning away from it being the transmission as well. It had been running the best it has run since I bought it from the shop next to where I was working at the time so then for this to happen out of the blue when she has been runnigh so good just has me stumped. I am going to try & get a video as I start it to help with what exactly is doing & then will post it up here. When uploading a video do you do same as if it were a picture being uploaded?
-
So just last week my 1995 XE Pathfinder started driving almost as if it was in Limp Home except for my Rpm's would go up to 4000 - 5000 & it acted as if it was stuck in 3rd gear wouldn't shift into any other gear. The next time I went to start so we could take it over to a friends house & have a good look at it. While sitting at the light once it turned green giving it gas we moved nowhere so pushed it into parking lot to look it over didn't see anything out of the ordinary. We started it back up & wouldn't you know we were able to drive it again still like stuck in 3rd with hight rpm's. got about 2 more miles when it then started losing all power & didn't want to move anymore. So tried shutting it off & turning it back on again which once again was able to drive it got it the next mile to my friends house.
Checked over everything tps checked out ok spark plugs got changed out, mass air flow checked out, had a code for the o2 so put a new one in, vacuum lines seemed to be all in tact, distributor looked ok , Inhibitor switch wiring had an exposed wire looked like it may have gotten melted a bit got that all cleaned up & fixed. checked for any other codes & got 55 so nothing there got it to flash codes on dash from E-at power which flashed 16 times all the same with none flashing with a longer pause then the rest. Which if I read it right says the all the same flashing ran it's test & everything checked out. One thing I did notice while it was sitting at idle if you would apply pressure to the breaks it would bog down so I tried to pump[ the breaks while in park sitting at idle everytime i applied to breaks the idle would bounce around almost to where it just died.
Figured it was then best to trailer it back to my house since I was bout 70 miles from my house started & drove on & off trailer ok once got in the garage at my house began to double check everything again from wire connections, vacuum lines, tested MAF, TPS, checked spark plugs, distributor, Starter. What I found after the look over was on the wire coming off distributor it was showing a tiny bit of the wire & on the starter notices the wires going into connector was broken & exposed fixed these issues. Checked for codes again still 55 & same thing on dash with 16 flashes all identical so checked out there. Timing belt & water pump have been switched out 40000 miles ago.
Decided to call it a night to clear my head then the next morning go to start it up which when started idled for maybe 2 minutes then just died. When I tried to start back up it was as if it didn't have any power & would barely turn over. Let sit for about an hour went to start again same thing idle for 2 min then died at start back up same thing as if no power barelt wanting to turn over. I check the battery & it was sitting at 12.9 let sit for a bit start up same thing again only this time when started & at idle all of a sudded speedometer jumps from 0-100 then down to 0 & it dies. Won't start back up again. Check battery which was showing only at 20% so put on charger once charged start back up same thing again at idle speedometer jumps from 0-100 then down to 0 & it dies won't start back up Same series of tests only watch the battery level at start up when turning key over battery drops to 10.7 then bounces around from 11.4 12.9 up to 13.7.
Decided to take battery in to test it along with alternator both checked out come back hook everything up try to start same thing speedo jumps all over then dies heavy smell of gas this time around. Try to start again it tries to start but just won't start comes close but nothing. I am lost on where to look now any ideas would be greatly appreciated thanks.
-
Macrow,
I'd check out your clutch plates. I don't really have much experience on the topic, but from what I've heard doing an ATF flush can cause any loose clutch plate material that's suspended around the plates to flush out with the fluid resulting in poor shifting performance after. That's my main concern about doing flushes. At the same time though, it could entirely be due to the Synthetic fluid. Just as an FYI I think this thread may be targeted specifically towards R50 Pathfinders.
I'm glad I saw this thread as I'm going to be doing a fuel and filter change soon. I have no idea if it is necessary but considering the 30 bucks I paid for the Filter, seal and pan gasket, I don't mind it. My 2001 Pathfinder SE is having the issue where it has troubles shifiting from 1st to 2nd and seems to hover around in neutral for a while before switching gears. Giving it more gas seems to help, especially on startup. I'm sure my neighbors hate me cause I drive down our street at a good 30+km/h or my Pathfinder just doesn't want to shift, it definitely is more prone to happening in the first five minutes of driving but it has happened on a highway turnoff once. ...Wasn't fun at all. Has switching to synthetic solved this problem for anyone here? I'm hoping it's the fluid otherwise I'm thinking it's the solenoids that need fixing.
yes you are right just noticed i clicked on the wrong link so isn't meant for the pathfinder sorry to have posted here.
-
I am going to have to dis agree with most on the Synthetic being the better way to go. I had switched to the Mobil 1 Synthetic a little under 2 months ago now maybe it has to do with being a Mobil 1 Synthetic instead of a different Brand but ever since I have done the switch My 95 XE Pathfinder has gotten worse off each day that goes by. Did not have any issues with shifting on her up until after switched to Synthetic which now the shifting is nowhere near as smooth as it was from before the switch. I think I am going to get rid of the Synthetic & go back to using the ATF as I was before which she always ran great running that it her. Now as I said could it maybe be just the brand of the Synthetic I tried to use? I guess for now back to the original ATF which should make her run the way I am used to her running & will make her much happier as well.
-
This is just to get a feel for how many miles these rigs have on them. And to further give evidence of Nissan's quality.
well i would have 2 entries but don't know if it will let me vote twice both 95 XE's Automatic 4x4 first one with 356,754 & 2nd one with 265,235
-
1
-
-
Why do youi want to sell it if I were you I would be wanting it to have & do some Mods to & with under 30,000 miles on it that thing has some life left in her too. You just don't find ones like that anymore with that little bit of miles on it. The WD21's are beasts mine both have gone in places most wouldn't think even possible. Just my thoughts though I would love to find one like that which hasn't even had much travel in it.
-
I would also agree with Citron would always be a good project for your son to help with fixing it up. That's what my Daughter has been doing with me on my 95 XE. Since I am looking to get another WD21 for myself as well & they do tend to appeciate it much more when the have all that time into working on them. I figure why not keep it in the family then you don't have to scrap it & you always know where it is & that it will be taken care of & can always lend a hand if needed if something needs to be worked on down the road.
-
Avoid the BFGs anyways, as people have been reporting a bunch of sidewall blowouts recently at highway speeds
Yeah I have the Bfg's & had the sidewalls on two different tires blow out on me at different times actually I take that back it was 3 times the last time was in the middle of nowhere in Montana during a nice blizzard in freezing tempatures fun stuff. Besides from the blowouts though they have been great tires but the blowouts certainly have me steering away from buying them again when time comes for new ones.
Sorry off the topic for a quick second but wanted to say I will be hitting you & MaaaKaaa up I am just figuring out my plan of action with everything which may be changing & might buy another wd21 & continue to work on my 95 as well so I still have one to drive & then I can put the full attention to getting my 95 running like she should. Also thank you both for offering up your help as well I do rally appreciate that..
-
1
-
-
Ah your the one who bought it I had hit up that same ad but was to late sweet buy for sure.
help please pathy swap no drive in 2wd
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
I would have to agree with what Slartibartfast said above & would look into getting those tires to all be the same size.