Macrow

Click on the green banner with the link in it & should take you there glad I saw this post as well need to get for my 95 as well!

So I went ahead & changed out a few more things on her beings I already had everything tore back down so I could get the timing readjusted back to where it should be at. Figured I had 1-2 back up parts on a lot of different parts for whenever I go wheeling in case anything were to break or die out on me this way I can fix on spot. Since I was already going to be setting the timing back right again decided to put new belt on there as well even though this one still has over half it's life left on it still. When doing this I did find that the tension pulley for timing belt was no longer good & had a rattle sound coming from it so changed that out as well. Along with water pump again all new seals & gaskets, Cap & Rotor, Distributor, new belts, MAF & MAF connector, TPS & TPS connector, Inhibitor Switch. Certainly didn't need to do all this I am sure but like I said was already all tore down & I have the extra parts so adding more time to having to get back in there again to do any of it. Hoping to get it all squared back up after work today but for sure this weekend & see if the rest of my issues have been resolved on her will update once I get to that point this weekend with conclusion on if she back up & running again for me.

I would have to agree with what Slartibartfast said above & would look into getting those tires to all be the same size.

Yes, certainly is a very common issue with these doing this. On both of my 1995 XE's my door locks would unlock & lock at any random time by themselves also seemed to happen the most in cold weather more then hot weather. Changing out the front driver side control switch panel in the door arm rest fixed the issue in one of my 95's. This fix did not solve it for me in my other 95 though & the door locks still have a mind of their own & lock & unlock by themselves when they feel the need. May be something to look into on yours as well plus very inexpensive to change that out with a different one I believe I have an extra one or 2 of them for a 95 XE still here at the house now that I think about it.if you wanted to see if that solves the issue on your 95 XE.

So update on some things with my 95 as I was going through my wiring I did find another wire melted so that is fixed also my connectors for tps, maf & engine coolant temp sensor were looking rather rough so bought new connectors for them as well just need to install them. The one major thing I noticed was I decided to check on timing belt & everything again so did tear down the truck a good amount. Which is when I noticed my timing had jumped by a large amount which isn't good & I am not sure how it even jumped that much to be honest my tooth count was at 32 from cam to cam & appeared to be off on the passanger side cam but drivers side was in its right location. I have heard of therm jumping a tooth before but never this much at all. Which has me a bit worried how that could have happened. Also I am trying to find out if anyone knows what the gauge sizes are for the fusible links coming off of the positive side of the battery as well as the other fusible link on passanger side right near the battery. Mine were not looking so hot & looks like the PO tried to change them before & did a horrible job of doing so. Which I am thinking could also be a cause of some of what is going on as well.

Ok, cool I was thinking along the same lines too with bad dizzy & how that could affect engine & tranny if it was bad which I overlooked when it all started going bad on me. Thanks for the help with this as well I appreciate any input I can get.

My fluid still looks just like new & smells normal as well

I am not able to do this yet because it currently won't even stay running for more then 15-20 seconds if I am lucky if it even starts at all for me thinking it may be my CMPS causing some of the issues at least that is what I am thinking currently but still looking further into this though.

Update: Going to switch out the VSS just to narrow things down on possible causes of my issue & because when I went to look at this as you can see the one circled where the 10mm bolt goes through was cracked completely off so needs replaced no matter what. So I am a bit confused on which VSS need for my 95 XE auto 3.0 4x4 Pathfinder in the picture the one circled is the one that came out of my current 95 which has 20 teeth the other cam out of my other 95 XE auto 3.0 4x4 Pathfinder which was built 2 months after my current one I am driving & has 18 teeth on it. What I am confused on is they both have 235 / 75 15's on them so why would they have different VSS & which one is right or are they both wrong & which one would I need to order because the part store couldn't figure this out either. Also looking like it could also be my CMPS that has gone out on me as well which could be what is causing it to now only fire up for a real brief moment then dies & then doesn't want to fire up anymore after that unless it sits for a bit before trying to start again. If it is my CMPS I would need to replace the distibutor as a whole but wanting to make sure that I am correct on this?

Yes, the clock on the dash is out it lights up still but does not show the numbers anymore I have tried changing the bulbs out from my back up cluster that I have out of my old 95 pathfinder but still just lights up with no numbers showing.

I did try wiggling the MAF connector on it when it was running before & didn't notice a difference at all. However now it doesn't even stay at Idle long enough for me to try again to see. It now just does what it shows in the video & that's the longest that it has stayed running for lately before it dies again which doesn't allow anytime for me to be able to check again unfortunately.

I do have another speed sensor as well not exactly sure how to get the other one out though? I know it is back by the transfer case & has the connector that plugs in & then the 1 or 2 I believe 10 mm bolts on it which which mount it ny transfer case. When I tried to remove it to switch out I was unable to last time. Do you know is there something I must do to remove it like if I need the rear end of the ground or something? Since it has what looks like a gear on it not sure if there is a trick or something that needs to be done to get it to pull out & be removed?

I was thinking possibly the Transmission Control on the passenger side behind the rear paneling. Ido have an extra ECU which came out of another 95 XE & was only built 2 months after mine. I will check that out tomorrow after work & see maybe if that fixes the problem or not. It's late now & I need to get some rest. Will let know tomorrow what I find out.

Yeah it is very strange actually & I have been going through evrything since I got off work earlie in the evening. Which I still have not been sable to find anything wrong or even signs of something. I have checked all the TSB's & have not found anything for this kind of issue. Back to digging for more info & a solution to this so she is able to be back on the road again. No worries on not having any ideas on this I have mentioned it to a few other friends which they all have just scratched there heads on what itt could be as well.

cool i got it loaded on here

Here is a link for the video of what is going on when try to start her

That's what I had thought from the start of everything that has happened but I had been leaning away from it being the transmission as well. It had been running the best it has run since I bought it from the shop next to where I was working at the time so then for this to happen out of the blue when she has been runnigh so good just has me stumped. I am going to try & get a video as I start it to help with what exactly is doing & then will post it up here. When uploading a video do you do same as if it were a picture being uploaded?

So just last week my 1995 XE Pathfinder started driving almost as if it was in Limp Home except for my Rpm's would go up to 4000 - 5000 & it acted as if it was stuck in 3rd gear wouldn't shift into any other gear. The next time I went to start so we could take it over to a friends house & have a good look at it. While sitting at the light once it turned green giving it gas we moved nowhere so pushed it into parking lot to look it over didn't see anything out of the ordinary. We started it back up & wouldn't you know we were able to drive it again still like stuck in 3rd with hight rpm's. got about 2 more miles when it then started losing all power & didn't want to move anymore. So tried shutting it off & turning it back on again which once again was able to drive it got it the next mile to my friends house. Checked over everything tps checked out ok spark plugs got changed out, mass air flow checked out, had a code for the o2 so put a new one in, vacuum lines seemed to be all in tact, distributor looked ok , Inhibitor switch wiring had an exposed wire looked like it may have gotten melted a bit got that all cleaned up & fixed. checked for any other codes & got 55 so nothing there got it to flash codes on dash from E-at power which flashed 16 times all the same with none flashing with a longer pause then the rest. Which if I read it right says the all the same flashing ran it's test & everything checked out. One thing I did notice while it was sitting at idle if you would apply pressure to the breaks it would bog down so I tried to pump[ the breaks while in park sitting at idle everytime i applied to breaks the idle would bounce around almost to where it just died. Figured it was then best to trailer it back to my house since I was bout 70 miles from my house started & drove on & off trailer ok once got in the garage at my house began to double check everything again from wire connections, vacuum lines, tested MAF, TPS, checked spark plugs, distributor, Starter. What I found after the look over was on the wire coming off distributor it was showing a tiny bit of the wire & on the starter notices the wires going into connector was broken & exposed fixed these issues. Checked for codes again still 55 & same thing on dash with 16 flashes all identical so checked out there. Timing belt & water pump have been switched out 40000 miles ago. Decided to call it a night to clear my head then the next morning go to start it up which when started idled for maybe 2 minutes then just died. When I tried to start back up it was as if it didn't have any power & would barely turn over. Let sit for about an hour went to start again same thing idle for 2 min then died at start back up same thing as if no power barelt wanting to turn over. I check the battery & it was sitting at 12.9 let sit for a bit start up same thing again only this time when started & at idle all of a sudded speedometer jumps from 0-100 then down to 0 & it dies. Won't start back up again. Check battery which was showing only at 20% so put on charger once charged start back up same thing again at idle speedometer jumps from 0-100 then down to 0 & it dies won't start back up Same series of tests only watch the battery level at start up when turning key over battery drops to 10.7 then bounces around from 11.4 12.9 up to 13.7. Decided to take battery in to test it along with alternator both checked out come back hook everything up try to start same thing speedo jumps all over then dies heavy smell of gas this time around. Try to start again it tries to start but just won't start comes close but nothing. I am lost on where to look now any ideas would be greatly appreciated thanks.

yes you are right just noticed i clicked on the wrong link so isn't meant for the pathfinder sorry to have posted here.

I am going to have to dis agree with most on the Synthetic being the better way to go. I had switched to the Mobil 1 Synthetic a little under 2 months ago now maybe it has to do with being a Mobil 1 Synthetic instead of a different Brand but ever since I have done the switch My 95 XE Pathfinder has gotten worse off each day that goes by. Did not have any issues with shifting on her up until after switched to Synthetic which now the shifting is nowhere near as smooth as it was from before the switch. I think I am going to get rid of the Synthetic & go back to using the ATF as I was before which she always ran great running that it her. Now as I said could it maybe be just the brand of the Synthetic I tried to use? I guess for now back to the original ATF which should make her run the way I am used to her running & will make her much happier as well.