Dark94XE

I welded some 1/4" thick tabs to the floor bars and bolted it to the factory roof rack. There are some little adjustable doodads in the cross bars on the factory rack, they look like nut-serts, I just bolted into them. I made sure to use lock washers and loctite. I'll get some pics posted when I get my camera back from the little lady.

Sorry, not selling them. If you saw my welds, you wouldn't want one. I'm still getting the hang of it. Thin wall tubing is a PITA to weld. I'm welding everything in site, trying to get some practice before I build my bull bar.

The wheels are factory Chevy Suburban alloys. They came off an '88- 1/2 ton Suburban. I had the centers machined out to 100mm and painted them bronze.

That's a good idea. Maybe I'll taper the next one. It's a little taller than 6". The verticals are 6" and the main tubes are 3/4", so overall height is 7-1/2". It'll look a lot better when I get some lights and a high lift jack on it.

Thanks, I need to get a better handle on my welding skills though

Here's a couple of pics of my new rack

Looks great. I'd pay attention to those casting marks in the combustion chambers though. The little high spots could cause hot spots and thus detonation. I'd just smooth them out. Just my 2 cents. Great work.

Just a teaser... I'm in the process of building a Safari Rack tonight. I've actually been working on it for a couple of nights now. It's dimensions are 44x60x6" deep. I'll get some pictures up as soon as it's done. Wish me luck

Mine was bogging pretty badly... I replaced the fuel filter and it went away. Hope that helps.

I use permatex Ultra Copper on all sorts of exhaust applications and it works fine. Why did you have your headers machined flat? Did you buy them used? Were the mounting flanges warped? What looks like ridges at the collector tubes are there for a reason, they are designed that way to seal better. I have never actualy seen the Thorleys for a Nissan, I'm speaking from SBC and Datsun L6 experience. I hope you have not created a problem from having the flanges machined.

Thank you. That's the info I was looking for. The breakaway force is pretty high for a OEM LSD. Good to know.

If the tranny is in neutral, you can spin both rear wheels in the same direction. In park, if you spin one wheel, the other is forced to spin in the opposite direction. My question is, how much resistance is normal in a stock Nissan LSD? I find it strange that I just can't get them to spin in opposite directions. I'm starting to wonder if the previous owner welded the spiders. I'm used to working on high horsepower vehicles (750hp Procharged Nova) that is using a clutch type LSD, and as you could imagine is pretty tight, but you can still force the wheels to spin opposite.

Exactly how tight should the factory LSD be? I had mine on jack stands, in park, and with a 2' breaker bar, I couldn't get the wheels to spin opposite directions. I mean, I was picking myself up off the ground, and no movement at all! I'm wondering if somebody welded the spiders. It doesn't bark around corners or in parking lots. Any insight?

Sorry, I'm an idiot. I found it in the "How To" section. DeeDeeDee!!!

Does anyone have a picture of can anyone describe where the factory steering dampener is mounted. I just got my OME shocks and dampener (springs are on back order), and the dampener is supposed to use the factory hardware. Problem is, my pathy didn't come with one from the factory. Could somebody please help?

Yeah, mine did that the other day. The lights went out when I hit a bump!! Alternator crapped out shortly after

Be careful, I had to repair my crankshaft from some knothead who actually took a chunk out of the keyway. We actually welded the key into the keyway and machined it so the timing gear would fit. It's not the right way to do it, but I wasn't about to spend a bunch of money on a $300 truck

Okay, my bad.

Without the snap ring in place the hub is probably moving around on the spindle and the brake rotor is attatched to the hub. That should have a definate effect on the brakes, no?

Thanks for the link. I read it a little late though. I ordered my OME kit from 4x4 Connection in VA. Really nice guys. The springs are back ordered, of course, and the shocks and steering dampener are being drop shipped from ARB in Seattle. I'll have the shocks and dampened in a week and a half...I won't have the springs for 3 to 3-1/2 weeks...they have to come from Australia, I suppose. Bummer. I checked around and everyone had the same story.

Thank you. I was going to order from Rocky Road. You just saved me a headache. Much appreciated.

Thank you, but I was wondering if anyone had any personal exprience with OME.

Please don't flame me on this, but I've been searching for info on the OME lift, and the search option doesn't come up with anything. My '94 is used 90% on the road, but sometimes goes where the pavement ends. Does anyone have any useful info on this lift? Thanks.