jjonez

Side note: I pulled off the brand new air induction valve/air cleaner assembly and it already has collected A LOT of water in it after less than 700 miles. I'm already seeing some corrosion on the perforated metal filter backing. Is this just what these things do or am I missing something here? Possibly related to my current issue i.e. water getting sucked into the intake somehow?

Welp, I guess the AIV wasn't the culprit and I'm looking at an intermittent issue. Today as I was creeping up the freeway on ramp in traffic the truck started to sputter then died. It cranked fine but wouldn't turn over. Luckily within a minute some good samaritans helped push it out of the way before my fellow commuters could get really pissed. After a loooong crank the engine finally caught but had the same issues stated earlier in the thread. Slightly higher idle, stumbling and almost stalling when tapping the throttle from idle or giving it heavier throttle while driving. After a bit more driving now of course it starts and runs fine. Which makes this way harder to figure out, but I'm guessing a fuel or air issue. Any suggestions on where to start? Thanks guys!

Like how wheel lugs will say 87-108 lb ft? Yea it's just the torque range. Don't know about the studs, but if they're easy to remove and find new ones I'd say best to go for it.

Dang, penetrating oil? Sorry that's all I got

I have the same leak as towndawg. Sometimes I get drips, sometimes there's just a residue coming down the right side of the bell housing, sometimes it just doesn't leak at all. It's weird how intermittent it is, I think I've only had to top up coolant once. Not worth fixing till I need a new clutch

Group hug!

All sorts of goodies in your oil pan!

He lives! Parts arrived early and I wasted no time installing. I purchased part no. 14812-12G15 here: https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-case-eai-valve-1481212g15 Pricey, but I was pleasantly surprised that it did in fact come with everything pictured, the reed valve, case, and new air filter. Who new a 30 year old part could looks so good? After I got it installed and started it up I was still getting occasional hiccups and it would stumble pretty bad when I opened the throttle. After warming up and driving around a bit, everything was totally fine and this morning it cold-started completely normal. So I'm chalking up yesterday's cold start to not having been run in 3 weeks and the ECU resetting after having the battery disconnected. Hopefully that's the end of it. I'm definitely going to keep an eye on this new one and clean it periodically.

Dang! Just checked NGK website. Rockauto letting me down saying iridium "lasts 4x longer". Guess I'll be changing them again sooner than anticipated

Hahaha from the pictures I thought the X90 was a NB Miata! I really like that LWB samurai too Bummer about your carrier. What's your plan for fixing/reinforcing?

Yuck. I hit the junkyard without much success. Found one 86 v6 hardbody with the part already pulled, and another hardbody with the Z24 that uses the same part. But this one was in even worse shape than mine. I went ahead and ordered a brand new $200 part from courtesyparts, but based off my experience trying to get a new oil sender, I'm more than half expecting to get an email saying they don't actually have the part anymore. Mine is dried out now and doesn't look as nasty, so if the new one doesn't work out I'll look into cleaning this one out.

Only 60k on iridium? I put them in my 02 cuz everything I read said they last longer than platinum. I changed mine at 146k cuz I also suspected they had never been done. The gaps were more than double the spec. Even so, I can't definitively say I noticed a difference with fresh plugs. There is a helpful guide on Nico forums, but the job is pretty straightforward. And I'm a guy that ALWAYS runs into some kind of issue when doing car stuff

I have the bilstein 185552 on my 02. Along with OME MD and 2" spacers. I don't have extended brake line/diff breather and it's just fine. I can get a rear wheel hanging without snapping anything. If you're going to be lifting, new shocks are only a benefit. Extra length helps with wheeling as mentioned, and new damping makes for an overall improved drive. Mine felt pretty stiff at first but got better after breaking in. has excellent handling now too. Of course this was with new bushings and a full overhaul on the front too.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'll start by cleaning up the hole/filter and patching it. Maybe try carbon fiber epoxy since it's handy at work. Unfortunately I won't be able to address it until next weekend but I'll be sure to update when I do. I'm fortunate, the pathy passed well above the margins without me having to fix anything. Hopefully that continues in the future. August59, if the simple patch doesn't work out I might hit you up for those fsm pages. Thanks!

Thank you! Googling the part found this thread from a few years ago: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/37076-air-injection-valve-aiv/ Same rust underneath, but no one mentioned any performance issues from it. I hope this is all it is. It's an expensive part, and probably will be hard to find in a JY. Any idea what the fluid leaking out could be? *Edit* from another thread I found I guess it's just water, maybe condensation build up or something. Explains the rust (duh). Lucky me it passed smog a week before this started happening. But it was such a sudden onset, the engine was running completely fine up until saturday

I just reused mine despite them being beat up and even torn in two. With strut spacers I wasn't sure if they needed to go between the strut and spacer or spacer and body... Can't remember what I ended up doing, but no worse for wear. I bet the HDPE acts as an insulator itself.

More food for thought. The thing is also connected indirectly with a Y to what I just learned is the anti-backfire valve. While I was driving home it backfired a couple more times and louder than usual, and the smell of gas was pretty pronounced after I parked and was idling.

It's crumbling away on the bottom and leaking some kind of fluid. Today after I changed my oil and was driving home the truck started to stumble and was wanting to die. Of course I was freaked out cuz I thought I had screwed something up during the change. After I shut it off it took a long extended crank to get it start again. For the most part it still runs and drives fine, except now it idles slightly higher (1000 now vs 750 before) and if I quickly blip the throttle from idle it'll stumble and almost die before picking itself back up. If I ease onto the throttle it revs like normal. Sometimes when I would get deep on the throttle while driving the same kind of stumbling would occur. Could the leaky thing in the picture be the culprit? There's a vacuum line coming off it going to somewhere on the intake so I figured it's a good place to start. I'll admit I'm kind of embarrassed I have no idea what it is haha. Thanks for your input!

I've got my own question while this thread is alive I have an LSD 4.3 rear and one day want to swap in a 4.6. Does the third member I find have to be LSD as well to be compatible with the rest of my axle? Or can I just swap over everything from the 4.3 third member to the 4.6 and be good? Sorry I should really do my homework on how all this stuff works haha. I'm also interested in beefing up the LSD at the same time since I've read about people doing that.

I know the lower shock mounts on the axle changed orientation at some point in the R50 run, changing the angle of the shocks in relation to the body. I'm not sure if the upper shock mounts changed accordingly or if they stayed compatible with both designs. Hopefully someone can confirm. But depending on the years of the trucks in question that is something to consider. Unless of course you're just swapping out the third member and junking the rest.

Yeah dude all my photos hosted by postimage are gone! Man that sucks, is there any way to edit old posts with new host links? Seems like such a waste

Let us know what the difference is. Also just curious, how did the swap go? Does sticking with the TBI make it a lot more straightforward? 25mpg seems incredible, how fast would you drive to get that?

Thanks guys! (Un?)fortunately I have the 5 speed so no vacant pushrod hole. Do the fog lights get the full voltage from the battery? I'll go for this if I can't find an alternative, but I'd like to keep the bar independent of the fogs if possible.

Hey y'all, I'm trying to wire up a front light bar for my '02 and was wondering if there's any easy spots to send wire from the engine bay to the switch in the cabin. Every harness I've found going in and out seems like a pain to access from one side or the other. Thanks for the help!

Holy cow! This reads like one of those urban legends people throw around when trying to diagnose some unknown issue, but are running out of ideas. But in this case it makes the difference. Nice!