herm

<<That is one wicked link in your sig! You write all that?>> Yup. i haven't updated it in a looong time... but a few years ago it was a lot harder to get quality info the the R50 pathfinders, and I found Dean Thayer's webpage (XPLORx4) most helpful, so I tried to reciprocate. there is alot of info on the Emu and AC coils available when you search this or ACs msg board. New coils will make a larger difference than shocks alone, and doing both at once will make a huge difference. You may not like the way it looks if you do just the rear - it'll have a jacked-up appearance. The Emu's coils ride without weight is firm, but I don't consider it too firm. I don't know what it would be like with shocks alone, but it is the coils that affect weight load, not shocks. Shocks serve as dampening devices, not structural payload devices. If you go with Emu or AC coils in the rear alone, you will have that jacked-up issue - it's best to do front suspension (coils/struts) at the same time, but then again that takes more cash... but you could try new Nissan coils with no other mods and see how that treats you. From the sounds of it, you'll be loaded often and headed into the outback, so the Emu coils/shocks F+R would be a good option, albeit a pricey one. I don't know anything about Emu front struts - I went with less expensive KYBs - the Emu's weren't on the market when I did mine. m.

consider swapping in new coils in the rear - either Nissan or Old man emu, and see what happens. You'll increase the ability to carry weight with less sag either way. If the previous owner used it for heavy roadtrips the rear coils may be beat, but even if it had a reasonably low weight life, they fatigue easily. Take a look at the condition of the bumpstops - if they are missing, then the coils have been bottomed out many times before. Really easy to replace the coils. You could consider rear shocks as well if they are original - Old Man Emu shocks are about twice the diameter of Nissan. Even if you trailer the load, rear coils/shocks will greatly affect handling. m.

I ran the K&N for a yaer, and went back to paper filters, for the reasons vengeful mentioned. i didn't like seeing oil and fine dirt in the MAF, after oiling it made the throttle sticky, just took more maintenence than I was willing to do. I can't say I ever felt a difference in power or throttle response, and from what the manufacturer claims I didn't expect to. I have more dirt roads than paved, so the dust is a major factor, and swapping in new paper filters as needed was simple. I like simple. m. PS - I'm really skeptical anyone can 'feel' a difference with an air filter. I have K&Ns in my KZ1000 and even there I can't 'feel' a difference. Your vehicle is what it is - and pathys are not fast (or slow), they are reliable and solid. Paper filters are easy.

well, I can't sell it. Not because no-one wants to buy it (in fact my mechanic wanted it, which says a lot) but because I'm just too attached to it! It was like taking a dog to the vet for the "last walk" - I just couldn't go through with advertising it. after I detailed it, and then we did a few more trail rides, I just can't replace it... so you'll be happy to know I'll be looking into a M8000 for the TJM and locking the rear... m.

Sad but true, I'm putting the 97 XE up for sale. Figured I'd post to the list since some of you know the truck almost as well as I do. Maybe your friends or nieghbors like your pathy's so much they need one too? I really haven't put a solid price on it yet - still figuring that out. NADA puts it between $5200 and 7400, with $6500 as Average in Good Condition. But you know how it is with our trucks... "Tires should be in good condition" Hmmm, well, how about new 31 x 10.5 Goodyear MT/Rs with 2000 miles? That's a pretty damn Good Condition tire! But then we have more than a hint of a "naturally" pin striped paint job with a few dents.. but zero rust! Anyway, before anyone asks - NO, I am not parting it out or pulling aftermarket stuff. I don't have the original parts anymore to bring it back to stock: 1997 Nissan Pathfinder XE 4x4: $7000 ?? Bangor, Maine 3.3 liter V6 5-speed 112,000 miles Power package (locks, windows, heated power mirrors), Air conditioning, factory AM/FM/CD with 6 speakers. 4-door hatchback, rear window glass opens as a hatch, or full liftgate. Rear wiper. Clear windows, no factory or aftermarket tint. Factory luggage shade thing, which has been in my basement since day one. Exterior: Forest Green, with forest scratches. A few dents and the usual rock chips - but not rusted anywhere. Interior: grey cloth, black dash (no wood) in perfect condition. I always had seat covers front and rear, no kids, adult owned, we used it as a two-seater. The back seats were folded down longer than they have been up! Always had floor mats in it: both the Nissan carpet mats and/or Husky Liners, so the base carpet is mint. I'm so anal the rear had the same set up with a custom rubber mat over the 'hump', and did I mention the seats were folded down anyway? The carpet hasn't seen sun, much less dirt. Consumer Reports has always listed this year/model as a Best Buy! But this isn't a normal used Pathfinder...... Built but not abused: we love to find remote boat launches and camping spots, so it's been down it's share of narrow trails. But it has never been mudded or been in deep water crossings, and it's been totally detailed after every major roadtrip.This isn't a mall crawler, it's built to get you in deep and back home safe, in full comfort, no matter how far that roadtrip may be. The list of mods is: Tires and Suspension: Brand new Goodyear MT/R 31 x 10.5 x 15 (less than 2000 miles, and they are awesome!) American Racing black steel wheels Old Man Emu suspension: Heavy Duty front coils, Medium rears, Emu shocks. Emu doesn't really refer to thier suspensions as a lift, but siffice to say you pick up an inch up front and a good 2 inches in the rear. And the best ride quality possible. KYB Gas struts, KYB strut bearings, AC strut boots. Factory full size spare underneath Additional trail spare with almost new31 x 10.5 BFG MT on Nissan rim Armor and Goodies: TJM-17 bumper with winch mount (never put in a winch, it's made for a Warn M8000) Hella 4000 driving lights up front (the brightest lights made) Optima Red Top battery Hidden Hitch 2" Class III reciever (never towed - used to hold a bike rack) Black Panther Front skid plate Black Panther secondary skid plate (protects oil pan) Nissan Xterra Transfer case skid plate Full Sliderz (side skids strong enuf to support the weight of the truck) Warn manual locking hubs (upgraded from the Nissan auto-lock hubs) Currently has flexible rubber fender flares, and I have the plastic EGR flares as well. Usually I run without flares in summer, but always use them in winter. WeatherTech VentVisors all around. These are the good ones, not the adhesive mounts. Roofrack: Factory Nissan roof rails with four Yakima crossbars and one basketcase. I have two more basketcases if you're interested. And the 3-bike Yakima carrier for the reciever hitch... deals can be made if you need to carry bikes. Routine Maintenance: Oil every 3000 (regular dino - no synthetics) Diffs and transfer at 80,000, Coolant flush annually Front end alignment Feb 2006 with new tires. Timing belt done at 98,000 miles by Nissan dealer New clutch at 90,000 miles (old clutch was OK but throw-out bearing was whining) Transmission bearings replaced at 98,000 miles (whining - work done by Harolds Transmissions in Holden, Maine, and the gears were fine) Aligned in Feb 2006 when the new MT/R tires went on. All brakes, belts and hoses in excellent shape - age can be traced in service records. More little things tweaked, cleaned or otherwise 'done' than I could possibly list... it is pretty darn perfect. FULL DOCUMENTATION! Every reciept in a three-ring binder since we bought it in 2000 w/ 30k miles. Plus a CD with the PDF Nissan Service manual, and assorted parts lists from the web and groups like this. Bonus Gift: I have an extra rear window, when we fisrt bought it the defroster wires fritzed out, so we got a new window under warranty. Of course, I kept the bad one. So, the bad stuff: Cruise control doesn't work, bad wire in the steering column is suspect, and not worth my time to find that one. Rear bumper on passenger side is bent in (or up?) from coming off a ledge. You know exactly how that works. The not-so-Hidden Hitch has protected the rest of the bumper system. Cracked windshield, but I'll get a new one this week, and a new inspection sticker, just so the buyer is ready to go. I'm also planning on having my local detail shop do a wax and buff, which will make most of the scratches go away... but not all. There is no point suggesting it never played on the trails. So, you won't find a better built or perfectly maintained Pathfinder (unless someone else on this list is selling theirs) We used it for trips to Canada: Newfoundland, Labrador and Quebec, and down to South Carolina every summer, and wouldn't hesitate to drive it across the country on a moments notice. It's an awesome vehicle for dirt roads, cruises all day long in full comfort (and control) as well as 75+ mph on the interstate. Perfectly maintained, and well travelled. We really love this truck and would prefer to keep it, but can't justify a third vehicle. I'd feel better, of course, if the next owner would take care of it equally as well, and take it out to play on the trails regularly - I'd hate to see it become a soccer-mom grocery getter. But with the build list I doubt that type will have any interest. So, the question you are asking, is why the F*#@ are you selling? I must admit I love the pathy, but I've had to turn back on too many trails that I really want to explore.. so I've decided I do need to buy a solid axle, wagon-style truck that can run 33s or larger and be locked F/R. Most likely this puts me in the market for a Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60/62 or 80. But I'm deeply attached to the pathy, and it truley pains me to move on.... e-mail me for pics if interested! cyberherm@verizon.net

here is a bumper with the hi-lift jack on the angled brace that supports the spare. Would interfere with the CB antennae but just for ideas - since it seems most of the R50 owners are fixated on rear bumpers recently. I like the side guards, for wheeling in trees the rear quarters take a lot of abuse. I think this is by Hanna, who does nice work, and really makes some overbuilt stuff. The Land Cruisers can take a lot more weight hanging off the rear end than R50s, but this pic was just to show the side guards and hi-lift option for ideas.

Very Nice! That has the attributes I prefer: 1. square stock, not tube. 2. No loss of departure angle with the reciever hitch, and fully boxed in and welded. 3. Recovery points for shackles offset just enough so you can leverage the rear if you need to cross-pull it. Thos are about twice as beefy as needed.... 4. Clean side wings. 5. Spare and jerry can, CB antennae, all nicely tucked up and away. Can you add Hi-Lift studs on the angled piece? 6. Overbuilt, but not too much so! The simple triangle for the spare is nice, extra gussetting at the base... looks like you really thought this through. Now how about making another? Or hook up with Marcel for a canadian pathy build fest? This has probably been covered elsewhere - but do we really need the second muffler on our exhausts? Now how about making another? Now how about making another? Now how about making another? Now how about making another? Now how about making another? m.

why would you have to remove the radio antennae (aerial) when it is on the other fender? Or do you mean something else? Pezzy do you live on-line? m.

I have 111,000 miles on the original rear drums and pads. New front pads at 85,000 miles, original rotors. I don't tow, and obviously I'm real easy on brakes. Whenever they go, I'll just replace with Nissan parts.

My spacers from Rocky Road measure 1/4 inch, not the 9/16 they advertised. I don't see why you couldn't stack them. They are cheap to buy, I think mine were $30 shipped. I did a quick measurement (center of hub to fender lip, no flares) and my rear is 21 and front 19.5. I have a TJM up front and about 250 lbs of gear in the cargo area. The front coils have settled down, I think they are getting tired - when I eyeball them they appear pretty darn compressed just sitting still. I've been lurking on some Land Rover and Land Cruiser boards and it seems people do replace the Emu coils every 3 seasons or so due to sag. The other variable is twofold - I measured it parked on an uneven surface, and it's cold here - below freezing. I'll see if I can find level ground, like a car wash bay, and see if it measures the same. I don't know what to make of the relative differences we see in pathy suspension measurements. I see other stock R50s in parking lots that look lifted, but they aren't. I'll do new front coils and the 1/4 inch spacers as part of the winch install. m.

The AC vs Emu decision... definately a tough one! Incidently that poll is misleading because I haven't heard of anyone running the Emu struts yet, most have KYB w/ Emu coils. The question is: how much difference does an inch make? If you have skids/sliderz I think you can get through the same trails with either coils, but you may be driving on the sliderz more. It would be fun to follow an AC pathy with an Emu pathy and see just what situations the extra inch actually allowed passage. I went with Emu coils because the difference wasn't enough to overcome the topping out issue, and at the time my pathy was seeing more hwy miles. I felt the Emu suspension was easier to deal with since my state has been proposing inspection laws that prohibit lifts on ABS vehicles (still in discussion). And it seemed even with the AC lift I was still limited to 31 inch tires. Ground clearance at the axles is what ultimately limits you off road, and since that measurement stays the same, I went with Emu's and full skids/sliderz. Now that I have Goodyear MT/Rs I notice better performance because that is one fantastic tire. The AC lift will increase the approach/departure angles slightly, which is always helpful. And you'll get the extra inch at the rocker panels, which is helpful in deep water or snow, but your A-arms and pumpkin hieght will remain unchanged. The whole lifting thing - always chasing bigger tires - there is a saying 'Locked not Lifted' which suggests a locker will go alot farther than a lift in actual off-road performance. That is the reason the 1960s Land Rover Classics traversed most of the continents roadless terrain on 29 inch tires. I've gone wheelng with jeepers who simply said there was no way I would be able to make it up the trail, since they all had 33-38 tires. Well, I did make it, and they were surprised. It took more time to pick a line, and few tries at some obstacles, but I enjoy the challenge. It makes you a better driver, and you learn how to work within the limits of your vehicle. Incidently, that day ended with me towing the biggest jeep out for 20 miles on dirt roads when he broke it. The camber adj bolts - it aligned fine for 2 years with the Emu suspension, but this winter the shop installed camber bolts to align it. I don't really understand why that is, perhaps the coil fatigue, but it still puzzles me what would wear to make that needed on the 3rd season. I do have the spacers from Rocky Road - called 'trim packers' and they are only about 1/4 inch tall. I haven't installed them yet - I'm putting a winch on this season and will do new Emu coils and the spacers at that time, to help offset the weight of the TJM and M8000. Whatever coils you get, they will probably be due for replacement in 2 or 3 seasons of trail use, so you can revisit it in the future. Maybe by then we can jump to a 4 inch and 33's. m.

That Xterra is really nice, but is it the truck you want to get through the first few seasons of true wheeling with? I think the question you need to ask yourself is what sort of trails, and learning curve, are you looking at in your area? If your trails are in the woods, you are going to scratch your truck from end to end with branches, and if you wheel on twisty wooded trails you will start to accumulate fist sized dents from tree trunks. There is a constant risk of knocking out a rear side window. Add in rocks and ledges and you'll begin to destroy the plastic bumpers, and rockers if you don't have sliderz. If you wheel through mud and water then you have another set of issues, often just increased maintenence but that terrain also takes a toll on the interior. If you wheel in the snow, who knows what you'll eventually slide into. As soon as you start to 'go wheelin' as as recreational activity the truck gets beat up, and you may need a budget to pay for broken stuff, in addition to the fun upgrades. If you build the R50 you have, and spend two or three seasons finding it's limits, and developing your skills as a driver, you'll be in a better position to define what the next vehicle will be. X's and R50s remain really close in performance, even when built. But trail driving can just beat the hell out of your truck, so older, paid for, and proven is a better choice - the R50 is good platform. But if you can get both, like Pezzy asked - that may be ideal. Build and break the R50 while the X is being paid off, then continue with the X?

That's odd that you say Monroe build the Emu's, since Emu is owned by ARB, and ARB does almost all of it's manufacturing in-house. But all things are possible. I can tell you that the quality of the Emu shocks are impressive, they are considerably larger than stock Nissan (or anything in the Monroe line) and seem to be holding up well for me. As far as the Emu strut, which is way more expensive than anything else, I haven't heard feedback from anyone running them yet. I have the KYB struts, with no complaints.

I think we all think those same thoughts! I don't think it would be worth the effort to trade up to a newer pathy just for the bigger motor. Every other aspect pretty much remains the same - and depending on mileage, you'll end up doing the exact maintenance repairs again. The bigger motor would be nice, but if you want better off-road performance, dropping in lower T-case gears would serve you better than the larger motor. You have a solid vehicle that you know the recent history of to lift now, so I'd look at how much $$ it is to do a suspension overhaul, sliderz and full skids. Then look for bumpers (harder to get), M/T tires and a winch - and you're pretty well equipped to play. If you finished it off with the T-gears and a rear locker, you'd put the proverbial icing on the pathy cake. Eventually, to build a capable trail truck, you'll sink $3,000 - 7,000 into whatever you start with. A stock 2003 Xterra isn't any more trail capable than a stock 96 Pathy, but as a build platform there are a lot more aftermarket choices for the X. If you put an initial build budget of $5000 into either one, I'd say at the end of it all the Xterra may be the more capable trail truck, but you may not need that extra percentage of off-road ability. And you'll blow the $5000 as part of the initial trade up process anyway. So, there is no doubt you'll pay less coin overall to build your current truck, and you could do it in 30 days if you wanted to just lay out the cash in one massive upgrade-rebuild. That's the reasoning I revert to in justifying more 'build options' for my 97. It's got so many scratches and dents, and is so trail worn that it would be a tough sell, and it works great so I plan on driving it into the ground..literally. I have documentation on almost all of it's service history, and it continues to get me out of the situations I need getting out of... m.

yes - do the strurt bearings while you're in there. And find a different mechanic! Most chain stores will do struts/bearings etc at a fair price.

You may want to ask this on the AC board as well?

The tire carrier work - is this part of the bumper, or is this an upgrading of the Nissan carrier? I'm interested in the bumper alone, unpainted. I'd want to do some mods to it before I installed it.

Nice stuff! Did you replace the AC coils with a new set of AC coils? How long were the first set on there before they sagged? Pezzy will be all over that rear bumper!! Damn I wish you made two of those! m.

Pathfinder_Rookie, I can email you the PDF of the service manual chapter on this if you want it. send me an address. m.

Dealer will be highest $$ - local shops can do it for less with a less expensive part, and you may be able to provide the part: http://oxygensensors.com I imagine some sensors are too cheap, but a bosch sensor is still top shelf in my book. Compare these prices to dealer and see if it helps. It is basically plug-and-play, but they don't always come out happily. They sell a special socket which may be helpful. Sometimes, when it's all said and done, using a shop makes sense when something does go WRONG on the install, and all you have to do is say "Well, you guys broke it, so you guys make it right." O2 sensors can be really easy, or else way too difficult. m.

there is another way: http://www.overlandexperts.com/ Off road driving schools are getting more common, as are independent instructors. Spending a few hundred bucks on quality instruction is way better than a few hundred $$ repair bill for a 1-second judgement error... you don't have to learn what NOT to do by actually doing it yourself. Most schools give a group discount if you have a club that wants to be trained, but ultimately the closer you can get to 1 on 1 with an instructor is best. m.

I don't think you can get a wider stance without the tires sticking out past the body... 31 x 10.5s on chrome (steel) factory wheels should just squeak in at the width of the steel body panels. If you get aftermarket wheels, you'll probably end up with tires sticking out - I think all of them will change the backspacing and cause that.

The 10 gauge isn't that thin - it is the first gen. that Black Panther produced, and I haven't heard of anyone busting them. My 2 plates (superskid) are 10 gauge from his first batch, and they have done fine on the rocks, and I've dragged and scraped quite a bit. Even if I managed to hit hard enuf to severely dent the 10 gauge steel, I suspect the skid would bend but still successfully protect the goods behind it. The 3/16 are heavier duty, but if you're not building a trail truck you won't need the extra weight. I didn't realize you could still buy the 10 gauge. The powder coating on mine has come off in a lot places, they look good new but they are skid plates and will end up as rusted skids sooner or later. A can of black spray paint each spring fixes the cosmetics. The xterra transfer skid plate bolts on, it's the same transfer case - and I have one, but it's light duty. Better than nothing, but it is more holes than steel, and thin steel at that. m.

Well this post took a wierd twist... but my website has pix of my 97 with Sliderz. Your kids can still use these as steps, I put grip tape on the top surface for that reason. If you have stock rails and they are rusty, I would strongly recommend these as replacements. If you play off-road sooner or later you will be in a situation where these will pay for themselves. And if you don't go off-road these just may help if you ever get hit on the side by another vehicle. They bolt on to the same holes the factory (cosmetic) rails use, and cost about $400. shipped to your door. The black paint is pretty basic and they will start to show surface rust - I spray them with flat black each season - these are pure utility rails, so if you're concerned about the looks you could have them painted to match the body. I think you can order them unpainted for a few bucks less. m.

the switch panel on the drivers door is more temperamental because that is the door that is opened and closed every time the truck is used. You may just have loose/bad connections in there - the switch connections are inverted, so gravity is working against them as well as vibration.