FriedEGs

The lugs on this ebay would work well. They are Nissan shank style and are shorter than the one's that I bought. I wanted way cool black and couldn't find them in this shorter length. http://www.ebay.com/itm/24-Chrome-Mag-Seat-Lug-Nuts-For-Nissan-Factory-OEM-Aluminum-Wheels-M12x1-25-/141715239777?fits=Make%3ANissan&hash=item20fee2f361:g:eK8AAOSwPcVV0-ld&vxp=mtr

No spacers. I forget the offset of these Toyota rims... they are the same specs as the 5 spoke style that came on the 98 4Runners and T100's. If you get spacers, you'll def need to make sure it is hubcentric from hub to wheel and all gaps in between. Without centering the wheel onto the Nissan hub you'll never be able to center the wheel using the lug nuts, since they are not beveled. For lugs, don't forget that Toyota lugs use a different thread pitch than Nissan. You'll need to find Nissan thread with the shank style lug. Or, replace all 24 studs on the Pathfinder with Toyota thread pitch. You could get them slightly longer which would help make the longer Shank lugs fit better.

This is where I bought the spacers: If I remember correctly, Nissan's are 100mm and Toyota is 106mm. (You'll want to double check that) http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/KMCW106-100.htm

Here is my experience: The big difference between Nissan and Toyota is that Nissan wheels are lug centric while Toyota's are hub centric. So, like you mentioned you'll need to get the shank style lugs to be able to mount the wheel. For center bore, I found a hub centric ring from a specialty shop online, which matched the Toyota wheel for the OD and the Nissan hub for the ID. I'll figure out where I bought those and let you know. For the lugs that I bought online they turned out to be too long. So, on short notice I got lucky and found 24 quarter inch lug washers at my local O'Reilly's to make up the difference. For back spacing, I have had no issues with any rubbing. (With 2" lift) Hope this helps, I'll try to get some more pics together.

Hi guys, reviving this topic again: Here is an update: Left side is still sagging by one full inch compared to right/passenger side. (1") Replaced recently: Upper mounts, bearings, struts and springs. Everything north of the spindle/knuckle is new and/or known to be good parts. The body is rust free, no visible tweak to frame, etc. At this point, I'm wondering if the drivers spindle/knuckle assembly was replaced at some point. If so, does anyone know if the later generation R50 spindles are different than the early gen R50? I tried looking up the parts, but most diagrams don't show the spindle part# for some reason.

No modifications, other than replacing a lower ball joint, tie rod ends, CV axle and both lower control arms. I didn't torque any of the bolts after the vehicle was lowered back to the ground. No rust, this was a southern vehicle. Since everything below the springs/struts is good, i can only narrow down to the strut mounts, up top. (That where the popping sound comes from, going over bumps.) The shocks seem fine, since they pass the 'push down and no bounce on rebound' test.

So, trying to figure out why my '97 with 200k miles has a snag, only on one side. Drivers side front and rear both measure 1" lower compared to their respective Passenger side measurements. What are the causes of this uneven balance? I'm assuming worn out springs? Why only one side? Also, I am fairly certain that the noise coming from my driver's front is from a bad strut mount. (All suspension underneath is in great condition) Would a bad strut mount cause the suspension to sag?

Definitely keep that remaining Beck and Arnley as a spare. I love the 350Z motor, def a noticeable difference in power. Feels like a true 4 door version of the Z!

Just to confirm that is a sealed cartridge bearing inside? I'm assuming ball bearing? (not rollers)

Sounds like you have a 3.5? I have a G35 sedan and I had to use an Autozone unit, in a pinch. (Duralast unit) I have had bad luck with Autozone electrical components in the past and I had heard of some issues using Duralast cam sensors with some VQ35 owners. Needless to say, I was not thrilled to pay $65+ for that part but had no choice. However, that was over 80k miles ago and the car still runs perfectly, with this unit. Actually, I blew up the stock motor due to spun bearing and tossed in a 350Z motor (has a few more HP). I used both of the cam sensors from my blown motor, including that Duralast unit and so far the engine has run flawlessly for the last 50k miles. Hope this helps!

Thanks guys, I figured it out. I took out the original shaft and went down to my local Advance Auto and compared to a new one. Immediately, I noticed that the original was missing the metal bracket/collar, at the large end of the race. (Gold collar on the bottom of the pic, below) Advance had a nice quality unit and I got it for a nice price for it an no core charge. Installed, no more issues!

So, in diagnosing my front end rattle, I discovered that the front drivers axle has a bunch of up and down movement inside the hub. It's as if the diameter of the through axle part is much smaller than the diameter of the hub opening. (This is not a new problem, I just bought the truck with this issue, about 3 months ago.) The spline or axle shaft does not show any signs of wear. The inside of the hub appears to be fine, as well. The only thing I can think of is that the previous owner may have replaced this axle with a similar but incorrect replacement part#. I might swap this driver's side axle onto the passenger side, to figure out if it is the hub or that particular axle. Any ideas?!