TowndawgR50
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Posts posted by TowndawgR50
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7 hours ago, TroyButler said:
I ordered a new axle should be in within a week or 2
Probably the easiest, hassle free choice. While it may be repairable a new axle assembly will pop in fairly easily and quickly solving your problem all together. Afterwards by all means take apart the damaged axle and diagnose the problem, fix and keep it as a spare since both driver and passenger sides use the same part. Ive never seen an axle cleanly come apart at the joint like that. They tend to fail at the joint itself and have significant damage as a result so it would be beneficial for everyone to see what happened here.
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On 6/30/2019 at 9:32 PM, TroyButler said:
Based on the image you provided the splined portion of the axle shaft has completely come apart from the flexible joint, which also has a splined portion that remains in the hub, presumably with the outer snap ring in tact. You need open the hub, remove the outer snap ring then remove the flexible joint of the CV axle thats still attached to the back side of the hub. At that point you can assess if the inner snap ring has broken or there is any other damage which resulted in the CV axle coming apart.
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I love my O'Reilly lifetime warranty new axles (not remanufactured from old cores). They come fully greased and assembled with the outersnap ring.
Before I installed my SFD, I was running 2" spacers and went through 3 CV axles for the price of 1 thanks to the warranty.
Two of them due to CV bind and 1 to a ripped boot. They have worked great since fixing the suspension geometry and have seen lots of HD abuse with my 6" setup, a combination of towing and off road use. The lifetime warranty guarantees the axle for as long as you own the vehicle and its as simple as bringing in the old unit and swapping for the replacement. No hassle, no fuss and no shipping. The lifetime warranty from local parts stores on high wear parts is a great investment in my opinion.
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5 hours ago, colinnwn said:
Are the LR springs really that much of a load carrying improvement over AC 2" springs?
I can't comment on AC springs but I tow an 18ft toy hauler and the LR's have proven themselves to be great for that as well as having fantastic performance off road. The tounge weight is pretty high and the trailer itself is 3750lbs unloaded. I have had no need for airlifts since switching over.
The ride quality is obviously not entirely dependent on the springs but with my current setup the truck is a great dual purpose vehicle
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Currently Running 2" spacers with my LR9448's and no longer need the airlift helper units. They worked well for my rig as a tow vehicle but off roading with them in caused the bags to fail. They don't have a way to re-seat properly when articulating the rear axle so the fragile neck of the bag that goes through the spring perch gets pinched. The rear OME MD's give around 1.75" of lift and the bags worked great with that setup. When the load was enough to cause the OME MD springs to droop the bags brought the truck back up and improved handling.
If you need load handling the cost of a set of LR springs around the same as Airlift load helpers ( the airlifts cost around $80 bucks and the springs were about the same to my door from the UK) and will never fail you. The ride is not harsh and they are one of the best upgrades for the R50 for the cost, hands down.
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Looks great. Nice work!
When did you install a tire carrier? Dont think I've noticed it on your rig until now
Edit: just noticed it in the earlier shots. Its factory?
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3.4L mod. Not a small job. Good power gain. Check out @deltaR50 build thread.
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Keep the strap intact, place the top side on the truck, cut the strap and as the shock slowly extends guide the lower bushing over the axle side mount.
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9 hours ago, PATHYNDH said:
or source else where eh
https://www.rocky-road.com/index2.html
https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/arb-old-man-emu-coil-spring-2928/_/R-BHWQ-2928
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Swapped the front ends on @ferrariowner123 1996 and the Pines to Spines 2003 today. He graciously donated the 2003 last year to @hawairish and I with the request that we swap front ends at some point, which he and I knocked out this afternoon.
All body parts and lights bolt on with only the hood latch on the 2003 and wiring for the lights on both rigs needing some modification. The 2003 uses 9003 series headlights and has the corner/turn signals combined where the 1996 has separate signals and corner lights and uses a 9004 series headlight. With both rigs present and @ferrariowner123 's electrical knowledge it was a fairly straight forward job to swap and modify the plugs to get everything sorted out. The fender flares do not swap over and have to travel with the appropriate fender but once paint matched shouldn't be too noticeable.
All in all a neat project with both rigs fooling you at first glance.
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Hey guys- thank you for the questions and comments!
As of right now we have had one installment and during that process found the hardware approach needed improvement and we carefully evaluated the installation process. The next vehicle (The Gambler 500 rig or one of our two personal vehicles)should have version 2.0 installed for road&trail tests soon.
We have already acquired a domain and hosting for a website but the site is low priority for now. Our main focus is on refining the design of the SFD components and proving they're road & trail worthy-
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@ferrariowner123I wasnt sure but figured if anyone would know you would. Good work man
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@ferrariowner123 might know. He is pretty knowledgeable when it comes to rare factory options. Might be region specific to Brazil.
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11 hours ago, micahfelker said:
Nice photos! Looks like a blast! Im really digging the geology you guys have over there. Kind of reminiscent of the High Sierras. I gotta get up there soon!
In this one pic it looks like you might be bottoming out on your driver side shock. Hard to tell but you might want to get extended bumpstops to save your shocks from damage due to over-compression.
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Finished 1 complete 3" prototype kit as well as a partial 3" prototype kit and sent them off to AZ today. In the process of making this initial batch we've invested a lot of time into fabricating fixtures for the assembly and welding processes. This ensures our kits are consistent and allows us to be much more efficient. Looking forward to the coming weeks as this has been a lot of work and time but the passion for this project only grows daily, doubly so with good weather finally creeping in here and camping season on the horizon!
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11 minutes ago, hawairish said:
Bax’s response is my reason. 4” SFD means moving the subframe down 1” lower to the ground than a 3”, neither affecting my total lift, just the amount of correction. That’s to say that that my setup would have the same angles as a non-SFD truck running just 1.5” of lift. If wanted to completely correct my lift, I’d need a 4.5” SFD.
Same reason I went with a 4" SFD with 6" of total lift. Ground clearance.
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One of my two keys did that. I tried a new programmable key from Ace harware and it was problematic. Would intermittently work so I returned it immediately.
Is it the only one you have? I have the original two keys and relegated the broken one to spare status.
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Did you ever do the power valve screw service? A worsening of the condition sounds like it could be a fastener coming loose.
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I had the same wheels on my silver 01 rig when I first got it but I didn't like them much. Your particular setup is the only I've seen with them that looks really good. The paint color and wheel/tire combo you have is sharp and your truck is in great shape to boot. Really dig it. Im not sure I would black out the wheels though. The combo of silver wheels with black trim and the gold body could look really clean. Maybe do the black trim first and see how it looks adding the wheels after if it needs it?
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LED resistors? If you have those for your bulbs they might be shorting out
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On 3/30/2019 at 7:39 AM, spicyheckboi said:
so i got hurt today working on the truck! hit my finger with the grinder while taking paint off the fenders to paint it black. getting stitches. again. ugh
Gloves, glasses and sturdy work clothes. Always. Especially around any rotary equipment like a grinder. It may be inconvenient, dorky, annoying etc... but receiving a serious injury or loosing your limbs from something that can be easily prevented or minimized with P.P.E. is much worse. Glad you are OK. Would suck to loose a digit over something so trivial.
On 3/30/2019 at 2:42 PM, spicyheckboi said:i know it needs 28 spline and i’ve also heard some hubs need the studs changed while others don’t? is this true?
I have the warn hubs. Both the factory and Warn supplied studs broke. Not the best hardware. Id recommend switching to some quality socket head cap screws.
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Thats the one. Just need a set of feeler guages to confirm some specs. I want to say the gap on the unit shouldn't be more than 0.014" but its been a while since I installed mine.
Do you already have manual hubs?
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Great photos! You should get some of these printed
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Check my lift plans? 1997 Pathfinder
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Sounds like a solid plan.
Polyurethane bushings are a great upgrade for the R50 platform and provide a lot of bang for your buck. I have changed all rubber bushings on my truck with SuperPro front poly bushings and Chasis Unlimited rear control arm poly bushings with fantastic results. Id reccomend the upgrade to anyone with the budget and time.
Thay said- Id argue that the Nolathane products Ive used recently arent the best quality available, but OK if your on a tight budget. The bushings available from AC(SuperPro) and Energy suspension are great quality and worth the additional cost. Energy suspension runs slightly higher on hardness scale(70-80 on the durometer scale) than the Superpro units(50-60, slightly harder than OEM rubber of 40-50).
For street driving this may be desirable but translates more vibration and road noise and will increase harshness off road. I feel the SuperPro units have a great balance of polyurethane performance without inducing the standard issues that come with polyurethane since they are only slightly harder than the OEM rubber units. I use my vehicle for towing and off road recreation and the entire suspension package (see my signature) has made for a great dual purpose vehicle.