chrisq

That was exactly what I was talking about. Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Accidentally posted twice due to weird error I got using the app. Sorry! Feel free to delete if anyone has that capability.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quick question, while I keep researching, I am wondering because I thought I read somewhere that if you take your pathfinder somewhere to be balanced, most places will no do it properly. What I am trying to figure out, does the pathfinder (mine or any other) require something special (maybe recommended from manufacturer) for a proper balancing? Thanks for any clarification. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi, I am trying to change my transmission fluid and filter. I inspected the pan before hand and one bolt on the pan (on the side towards the rear) looks like I will have trouble getting to. I think it's a transmission mount in the way that won't let me get anything on it. Curious if anyone has encountered this? My initial thought would be to support the transmission with a jack and temporarily remove the mount but I wanted to get insight before I do anything (well that and order new bolts for the pan since they are pretty old). Also, noteworthy the suspected mount has a large "4" printed on it. If that helps anyone/rings a bell. Any assistance would be appreciated. For the time being I think I'm going to drive it to a car wash and power wash the underside (never been done). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea, it was just funny cause I was definitely letting it get the better of me. Can I get your suggestion, I have the no reverse problem with my tranny. It's automatic, I want to attempt to drop it myself but everyone tells me it's a pain. If I go slow I think I can do it. The real question I guess is should I get a rebuild or a reman tranny? I feel like rebuild is cheaper but I hear remans are reAlly good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Definitely check the timing with and inductive timing light. Seems like you are describing some of the symptoms of off timing. Your FSM will tell you where it should be (probably 15 before top dead center). Easy to reset or adjust. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Disregard my last few comments. I just kept trying and it finally lined up perfect. Tuned it and test drove it seems to be running fine. Boy do I feel foolish. Anyhow, thanks for the original post! Chris

Still troubled, I tried to rotate the crank to be at TDC and try to reset the distributor cap rotor to look at spark plug wire #1, still no turn over. Also tried to find valve #1 at the top of it's compression stroke by placing something over the hole and waiting til it blew out, then set dist. cap rotor to look at plug #1, still no turn over. Couple questions, should I be setting the distributor cap rotor to look at spark plug wire #1 or at the actual direction of the spark plug #1? Second, I noticed my crank varied from my FSM in that the crank on the manual had 4 marks (for 0, 10, 20, 30), where as the crank actually has 7 marks (I assumed it was for 0-30 by 5, but hoping someone could confirm? I have heard some start at ATDC like -5?). Let me know if anyone has any suggestions, for I am starting to lose hope and patience and tempted to put a for sale sign on her. Chris

Good looking out though....by chance would you (or any others) know if I want to turn the crank clockwise or counter clockwise? It's a 94 4WD AT. Also, I imagine I want to put the key in and place the vehicle in Neutral? Chris Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you for giving me my confidence back. I may take a shot at it tonight instead of tomorrow. Chris

I pulled the rotor and shaft that goes down into the engine block with the little gear on the end, which seems to let me insert it back in almost any direction.

Precise1, For someone who simply disrupted the timing by removing the dist. cap rotor and didn't mark it's direction, I need to rotate my crankshaft to get the pulley to line up at TDC. Have you gotten to the bolt from underneath? I am trying to avoid removing the radiator and fan shroud, and whatever else that will probably have to come out, am I just high hoping or can this be done? Chris

Am I dreaming when I think I can get to the crankshaft bolt without removing anything (aka radiator/hoses/etc)???

UPDATE: To anyone interested or following, found someone else had a post of the exact same problem and someone had the steps to properly set it, here http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/22081-distributor-diagram/ Now there is one step of rotating the crank to get the belt to align that I am trying to learn more details on where the 'crank bolt' is or how you do that. Thanks for all the input.

Actually, can you reference where the 'crank bolt' is? I think I am comfortable with everything else but I will looking and I don't know where that is, or how I could rotate it. thanks. Chris

I wish I knew this post existed a week ago. O well. Before I attempt, does anyone whether I want to find TDC first by the old crank with a finger over spark plug hole #1? I was going to do that, then the process described and I am thinking I should be good? Replaced my valve cover gasket and took the distributor out without noting its position just like the original post. Feel confident about it now. May attempt it this weekend or sooner. Chris

5523, Researching that, are you referring to aligning the timing belt and the camshaft sprockets? In your initial response you said to align the pointer on the timing cover to the 2nd to last timing mark on the crank pulley, can you go into detail of this process or reference material that does? I will continue to dig through the FSM. Thanks Chris

UPDATEOk, I will search that process in the FSM. I did manage to find the issue of no power in aux/run/start position. Turned out to be a bad connection on the negative terminal (wire to clamp rather than clamp to terminal) so it was hard to narrow down. Now, pathy tries to crank again with very low rpms/sputters. I tried loosening the rotor and adjusting it intermittent each crank to see if I could find a good position. Noteworthy, I had the rotor aimed at spark plug 1 (cylinder 1). No good crank but getting closer. I think I'm going to look into the crankshaft alignment before proceeding. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

5523, I did the second part already, the first part of "align the pointer on the timing cover to the 2nd to last timing mark on the crank pulley" I have not done. But I will research and see if I can do that. Still looking for a short somewhere because I don't think any of the timing would cause a no power affect when turning to aux. position, could be wrong though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the input, I tried digging through the FSM and I'm sure it's in there but haven't found it yet. I reset the rotor to the first cylinder but with the power shorting issue I'm not able to tell whether that fixes it or not. Going to do some testing today. I'll update this with any results in case anyone else has similar problems. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Start: Have valve cover gasket leaks, decided to tackle them. Did one at a time about a week apart. Did the easy one first, no problem. Started my pathy, let it run for a while, did a test drive, did a few test drives, week later decided to tackle the hard one. Started the hard one, removed everything while tagging connections and labeling them with yellow tape. FIRST SUSPICION was one of the last things I had to remove to get the valve cover screw was the distributor cap....or that's what I thought at first, but after you take it off, you have to take the camshaft (i think its called) or the distributor cap rotor shaft thing out, in order to get a clear path to the screw. Just to recap, I removed three screws that held my dist. cap on and then realized the rotor had to come out and removed a bolt-screw (bolt that gives you the option to use screw or rachet to remove). Once that bolt was out, I wiggled it a little (WITHOUT NOTING ITS ORIGINAL POSITION) and to my surprise it came out with the shaft that goes down into the engine and sits in what looks to be oil with a little gear on it...anyways, I set that aside (literally inches) do the valve cover gasket and reinstall the rotor shaft thing...while realizing I didn't note it's position initially so I kinda guessed (which ended up being pointed at like the 3rd cylinder i think). Reinstalled everything else according to my connections (i feel confident about everythign else because of the pictures I took and tape markings I made. I go to try to start it. I started but did not turn over (i think thats how people say it). Note, starter new (2 months old). It wasn't that type of failure that a bad starter or a low battery, it was like it started and the rpms try to build up but don't make it very far and go back to zero. Anyhow, I immediately thought that it was something to do with the rotor shaft thing, so I researched a little and decided to take it out and install it with it pointed at the 1st cylinder. Put the cap back on and now once I turn the key to the aux position (before crank/start) the system acts as if the battery is dead. AKA the stock digital clock goes blank and no power to any accessories etc. Checked the battery again, came back good, cleaned terminal with wire brush (they weren't bad but did it anyways), reinstalled battery, same thing. I am thinking it is a combination of problems with one of them possibly being fixed (the camshaft thing hopefully) and maybe I have a short somewhere? Relevant notes: Car was running smooth before I attempted the work. I have always felt that I had a weak/stock ignition connection with the key turning into aux and on the way to start. Summary: I think I messed up installing distributor cap rotor shaft thing, but I think it should work when aimed at cylinder 1 (spark plug wire 1). And I can't verify because when key turns to aux, it shorts/loses connection to battery. Goal: Is my thought process bring memories to anyone with knowledge? Am I way off with my thinking? Any help is appreciated, sorry for the long post, but wanted to provide details. This is not a daily driver, just my project. Chris

I'm in Pensacola, FL, but I will be keeping my eyes and ears out. Highly unlikely it's over here, but hey. I have this gut feeling that it is going to find it's way back to you again Mr. Jim, the condition will be another story. I can't help but agree that they probably stayed near by your area, and put a quick (probably crappy) paint job. Honestly, unless it strictly is a backwoods vehicle for the thief, I don't think they are enjoying it. It would be more work for the thief to undone/refurb all the work you have done to it in order for them to drive it publicly. Which is what I think they want to do because its a cool ride. Unless of course they are dumb and they drive it publicly without trying to hide the fact that it is yours (which could be the case). Your story hits close to home for many people here. Don't give up, you will find it. Chris

Nice work man. Inspiring.

Between this and Beer Garages walkthrough, I feel pretty confident to tackle my AT.

This will be handy. I am tackling both valve cover gaskets this weekend!