Dma251

I can promise you that as soon as I do that, I will leave the lights on in a parking lot and return to a dead battery.... I'm old enough to know me. I'm modifying my environment to suit. (It's a strategy that has been working for me.)

I want them to only come on with the key AND the headlight switch on, so I can leave them on most of the time, and I can disable that pathetic sounding sad-chime... Mr Hardbody, I have the FSM schematics, but they are a real pain to decipher... If you know a technique, I would love to hear it. I have the two 15 amp fuses under the hood for the headlights. Should I power those relays with the switched ignition power?

I want to have my headlights switched with the ignition. I have already done the relay mod to the headlights, and it works great. Anyone done this and know the wiring? I'm also thinking of energizing my power windows all the time, instead of switched. Kinda the reverse of the headlights. Any thoughts from the brain-trust? (I have good reasons for wanting both of these modifications... )

cool. I'll pick one up and if the bulbs are all dim and uneven, like a few I've seen, I can resolder brighter modern leds. Thanks

I am wanting to put a high-mount brake light on my 91. Does anyone know offhand if it is a single led board, or individual replaceable bulbs? I will grab the light and entire hatch-harness in a few days at my local junkyard, but I am about to make an order from superbriteled.com, and they show that it takes 168 bulbs. Anyone know how many?

I put bilstein 4600 shocks on my 91 se, and the difference is amazing! I also did the jgc rear springs at the same time, and can happily report that the bilsteins are perfectly okay with 1.5-2" extra lift. I've had rancho rs9000 in the past, and they are good, but they can be a pain to adjust and most people just set them and leave them alone. The bilsteins were perfect right out of the box. I think any monotube shock will perform better than a twin-tube design.

I drained and refilled the rear fluid with fresh lsd-safe gl5. I have driven it about 100 miles now, and noticed it was much harder to break the rear end loose on my nearby test-area, (the sharp-righthand, uphill turn onto a 10 degree grade). We haven't had much frost yet, though. It is definitely behaving better, though. Here's what I think happened. I added too much lsd additive, causing the diff to lock much firmer then it should. When I am off the throttle or just maintaining speed, it seems to be locked. I'm serious. I also drive a 98 toyota sienna van that has 10 year old tires on it, and it never drifts like this. Anyway, it should frost up soon again, and I will update.

I have a 1991 SE that I swapped in a MT, and have been bring it back to life. I have changed all the fluids, and put new bilsteins and 31" Toyo open country AT tires within the last month. This morning I was driving on very lightly frosted roads, and the back-end was coming around on every gentle turn. Pretty spooky. I did put in a tube of LSD additive to the gearlube. I wish I had an ARB.... THe best of both world. Maybe later this year.

I am thinking of fabricating rear disconnects for the swaybar. I am mounting a rooftop tent, and want to keep the swaybar for the highway, but want to be able to disconnect it when I need more axle articulation. I've had disconnects on a Jeep XJ I used to have, and they were really helpful. A bit of a pain to connect the bar again, but often I only had to disconnect one side to work. I'm thinking of cutting the link in half, and fabbing up some sort of clevis and pin arrangement that locks it together. Anyone got any suggestions?

I recently did a 75 mile forest-road trip to a local lookout tower. I noticed a significant amount of feedback in the steeringwheel on the potholes. Average speed was about 30 mph. When I got home I realized that my 91 SE didn't have a steering stabilizer. It's probably due for some front end parts refreshing, like the tie-rod ends and balljoints, with 200K on it. What are you expert's thoughts on the subject? I'm thinking of replacing all the front end parts, and running it to decide if a stabilizer is necessary....

This is a great question! I wish I knew the answer, too. You could re-gear it to 4.56, which would be close. Of course, by the time you do a nice wiring job, you might have just been better off to save for the ARB.... That's what I'm doing. It's a good idea though. What a luxury to be able to just push a button and be locked up... Someday.

Without a doubt, the best cleaner I have found for pretty much anything is a mr clean magic eraser. If something CAN be removed, they can do it. Even sharpie permanent marker will come off with them. Brake dust is noprob.

I found copies of the fsm online with schematics. I'm sure you can find them too. Might help. If you can't find them I can email you the pages you need.

That's one of the things I like about these old wd21's. Total interchangeability. Everything seems to fit everything. They are the ugly-duckling, but rock-solid, none the less.

...and the answer is yes. Maybe someday, somebody with this same question can find some comfort in this self-answered post.

I'm trying like crazy to get one of my pathfinders on the road for my son before the weekend is up, and just found that the ECM in it (1995 XE auto) is fried from mice chewing through the injector wires. Can I use the ECM out of my 1991 SE auto temporarily until the junkyards open after Thanksgiving?

Thanks, guys. I ordered the bilsteins for all corners and airlift 1000 kit. Now its on to tires. Thinking of getting 5 31" BFG AT's, but Im tempted by those goodyear MTRs, too.

I'm getting ready to replace the shocks on my 91 SE with Bilstein 4600 monotubes. I want to add some adjustable load-levelling system since I sometimes use a rtt, or carry heavy gear, and other times I'm running light. his leads me to two basic options: Airbags that ride inside the coils like the airlift 1000, or monroe or ACdelco rear airshocks. The advantage to the airbags is that I can run the bilsteins in the back, too. The disadvantage is it is more complicated and I worry that the bags might bind in the coils under high degrees of articulation. Does anyone have any experience with either of these on a pathfinder?

They call those "Cutting Brakes", I believe. I've heard it works well.

I am currently garage-deep in a trans swap into my wife's 1991 SE auto. Can anyone tell me what you do with the old speed sensor that came out of the auto trans?

Swapping a 92 manual trans into a 91 blown-auto. Anyone know if its necessary to remove the upper-dashboard to install the clutch pedal bracket? I just removed the clutch and brake pedal assemblies from my doner-vehicle, and I removed the entire dash to make it quick and easy to get out. I notcied that the clutch pedal bracket has two upper bolts that are pretty high-up behind the dashboard... How big of a headache am I in for tomorrow?