Dma251

Anyone have any ideas or experience with fabricating a mount for a single adult mountainbike? I'm considering a 2" squaretube coming out from the center of the spare with a rubber-lined clamp at the end that will grip the centertube of the bike. I would like to make it narrow enough for the tire to slide off over it, need be. I think I'm gonna break out the welder tomorrow.....

Here's a comparison of the 90-92 style vs. the 93 illuminated at night with led white bulbs.

You can do it cheap if you have some mechanical skills. Like what was said above - front coil springs from a V8 Jeep grand Cherokee ZJ (1993-1998) will fit nicely in the rear of your pathfinder and give you the 2" lift you're looking for. The catch is you will need to cut off the pigtails (where the spring reduces in diameter at the end). Hacksaw is the slow way, cutoff disc is the easy way. The front you can crank the tension on your torsion bars for 2" of lift for free, you need basic hand tools for that. Remember to jack the front of the truck up and adjust the bars without load on them when you raise it. Good luck!

If you could get it to seat up (gonna definitely require a bead-blaster), it's just a broke-bead waiting to happen. If you understand what I'm saying. The tire is going to be constantly ready for the situation when the air pressure is low enough for it to slip the bead back inside and collapse the tire. This is just plain wrong, and most reputable tire shops wouldn't mount it for you. Get some Legos!

I like that. It makes sense. The bumper polished up very nicely with some cleaner/wax. The seller threw in a set of 55w KC LX2 wide driving lights, and after rewiring them with 16/2 SO cord, mounted them up front. I'll wire them to a relay tomorrow.

The fairlead mounts from the front with same bolts?

I'm surprised that it doesn't have a mounting plate for the winch, unless the previous modifier removed it. Was the winchmount a separate piece?

I know, it seems like everybody does a body-lift on these, but I just can't bring myself to do it. I use my pathfinder to explore and boondock on forest roads. It does this pretty well on 31" and just a little lift. I used to have a HB, and I did a BL on that. I like sitting close to the frame! I'm gonna get this guy to sell me his superlift UCAs and then I'll level it out. It's a great rig. Next is arb lockers.

Here's what I did today. Cut out the raised section and re-weld it back where it was originally. I am gonna have some seriously black boogers tonight...

One last thing - Don't worry if you find an auto or manual 93 cluster. buy the best priced. I have a manual, but I carefully removed the plastic panel that shows the gear-postions. I wiped it down with alcohol and hit it with Rustoleum chalk-board spraypaint. It perfectly matches the matte finish of the other side. You can't see the markings at all. Problem solved!

I'm gonna miss the voltmeter, as well. I think I am going to install on of these in the location of the cigarette-lighter, though. http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Volt-Car-Boat-Red-LED-Digital-Display-Panel-Voltmeter-Waterproof-Gauge-Meter-/251773254931?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a9edafd13&vxp=mtr I have a 10w USB powersupply under the dash, and that gives me all the USB power I need, and I definitely don't need the cig-lighter. Someday I may make a switch-panel that fits where the ashtray is, too.

It was a blue 93 auto, and the owner said he bought it from original owner (who had installed the ARB w/o winch), and then he had a friend cut and weld it 3" higher. The son put a 3" BL, and superlift UCA's on it. In a former life I worked in LE, and nothing during my time around the owner aroused my suspicion. Seemed like a dad trying to help his son get the most from a bad-automatic-pathfinder.... Definitely not a unique situation!

The way I found it was by watching my local craigslist until I saw one on a $1200 bad-tranny pathfinder. I wrote the guy the first day and told him I'd give him $300 for and bring him a stock bumper he could put back on. After a couple weeks of no interest in the pathfinder, he took me up on my offer. We settled at $325 and I did the removal. It worked out good for both of us. I'm going back to score the UCA's for $100 in a week or two. I was really specificly trying to find an ARB bumper. I want my pathfinder to look era-appropriate, and back in the 90's, the ARB was one of very few choices and really looked good on the rather plain snout of the WD21. It's a good compromise of lightweight, but sturdy design. I gonna have to beef it up when I put a winch in it, though. That's a few months away. If you want to find one of these cheap, start watching CL and throw some lines in the water...

Just picked this up today. Unfortunately it has been modified for a 3" BL, so tomorrow I'm going to de-modify and hopefully get it mounted up. I'll take some pics.

here's a picture of the harness after cutting and splicing the 93 connectors on. Also a couple pics after I put it back together. I took these in my driveway with a bright sunlight outside. They are easy to read in daylight, but in my garage they dimmed down to a nice level at night. Total cost was about $25.

I used to feel that way too, but it's not gonna be easy to make the female side of your adapter harness. The connectors on the clusters are formed in the plastic, not standalone connectors, obviously. Every connector (there are three on the 93) will have wires that need to be going to different places. The color codes are all correct, just in the wrong places. If you use insulated spade connectors, you could do it, and still be able to reconnect your old cluster if you wanted. Ultimately, some splicing has to occur. I also took the opportunity to change the mileage on the new cluster to reflect my pathfinders actual mileage. That is no simple job, but can be done if you have the tools and skills. Here are some pics, but there really is no write-up to be done. step 1. cut off the connectors from old harness. Step 2. splice wires onto connectors that you hopefully clipped off the 93 donor-harness. Step 3. Plug it in and cross your fingers!

It is done, and I'll post pics soon. It can be done pretty simply, but you do have to cut off the connectors and splice the wires. Not hard at all for anyone with any electrical experience. Xterra, you are 100% correct about the differences and extra lights. I don't see that as a problem. You get to choose if you would like to keep your cruise control and defroster lights down in the cluster Bezel where they are on the 1991-92, OR you can have them up on the left warning light panel of the cluster. I just left mine where they were and disregarded those wires. I will finish it up and post some pics later today. FWIW - if you are into upgrading to LED light bulbs, for a brighter night lighting, this is a great swap!

93 is still the square dash, but it has no voltmeter, but has red needles and simplified design. 94-95 was the round dash. I have a 5-speed, so I have to try to find one without the indicators... The local yard gets $21 for a cluster, so it's a cheap project.

I'm wondering if anyone has swapped out their 91-92 cluster with the 93 cluster, which for purely aesthetic purposes, I like better. I Have played around with different LED lighting in the older model cluster, but have not gotten the exact result I want. I am going to pick up one of the 93 clusters this week at my local JY, but I am thinking I may need to do some splicing if the connectors are different. I thought I saw a post on here a while back about another member looking for info on this, but my searches couldn't find it. Anyone done this or know about it?

Anyone have any experience with how close to stock height you can go with a SAS? I like the 1.5 " height of my JGC rear spring swap, and for COG reasons wouldn't want to go much higher. I have new 31" tires, and like the size. I prefer the low&locked method in my tippy terrain.

I am still asking why not just build or buy a relay harness for your stock headlights? Either you are going for form followed by function, or function followed by form. With the relay mod, 14awg wire bulb connectors, and a decent set of halogen bulbs you will have a great amount of useful illumination. The stock lenses are glass, and although plain looking, they actually work pretty well. If its just the look you're after, then I guess glue those projectors on somehow and commence irritating other motorists. How about fixing up your headlights the right way, and then turn that hid kit and projectors into offroad lights? All due respect.

What kind of bumper are you putting on it?

I've used it successfully (and unsuccessfully) before. As long as you can fit it without it kinking it should work fine. If you have kinks, you need to use the wire spring around the outside to keep it open. Some have a spring inside, some outside. Use some good quality hose clamps, and if you're lucky it will never give you any trouble at all.

I'd try to pickup one of numerous pathfinders on Seattle Craigslist with a good motor and bad auto. There is one in Monroe right now for $400. Several more for $500. You'll have a much great chance of success getting back on the road by just swapping out a stock motor, plus you will have a great parts rig left over to pick from in the future or collect scrap value from ($200-$300). There's no telling what kind of damage you are going to find once you're inside your motor, and you may still need to machine work done. Just too much headache.... Thats my .02 cents, anyhow. Been there, done that, and still have the knuckle scars to prove it. Good luck!

Thanks for the ideas. I will work on it later tonight or tomorrow and report back the results. I really appreciate it.