daczone

I'm sure this has been talked about a million times... But I am thinking of replacing my stock 31" tires with 235/75-15's which are around 29" Am I crazy? I'm striving for 20 MPG and using this rig to pull a small trailer with my Quads on it. I think big tires look great on a pathfinder that is lifted, but the factory 31's look like they are stuffed in there. The tires I am looking at have an aggressive tread, just not the 31" size.

Suppose to pull 2500 CFM. Testimonies said it works with V8 engines, so I think it will be fine. The reason I swapped it is I'm shooting for 20 MPG plus hated the fan noise with the mechanical fan.

Got it installed. Before: After: Lots of room now Fan + mounting kit + Thermostat w/relay about $80 shipped to my door (Amazon)

Ah yes the fluids... I need to do that for sure including my transmission. Good tip on the disassembly. I will definitely attempt that. I didn't really want to do manual locking hubs, but will if I need to.

When I drive the doors sound like the unlock and lock.. I don't think it's random, but I was worried it's going to lock my keys inside. I wired everything but the parking lights and rear trunk. I needed 2 solenoids to wires those 2 items. As I said I didn't get key fobs with my rig and the factory alarm was questionable at best. So I just bought a 3 channel alarm off e-bay and replaced it. Simple enough, actually having all the factory wiring harness made it a pretty quick and simple job.

It runs real good. Haven't put many miles on it, busy with the Holidays and family. Here are some more pics: I've replaced the carpet and the front speakers and added EL glow gauges which are a huge improvement over the stock display. Wonder why these sounded so bad

Are there any rebuild kits for these? It appears that mine are wore out, stuck or simply not working. Also my RD has a Limited Slip sticker on it, but with 285K on the it, I'm doubtful that still works. Any test I can there short of dropping the clutch? I think I've damn near wrenched on or replace every part of this Pathfinder.

I ordered a 16" electric fan with Thermostat for about $80. We'll see how it does. Suppose to push 2500 CFM.

A few things that I hate... Is there a way to remove that mechanical thingy that makes you push the button to remove the key. My other car is a Prius and I love the keyless entry, At first I would have the keys in my hand and then leave them in the car because I would get in and throw them into the console. Then I learned I just leave them in my pocket. I owned lots of cars but never had to deal with pushing a button to remove the key, not sure the purpose of that. Maybe the earlier Pathfinders didn't have that? And I could swap something? Thanks All!

I was able to find everything I needed under the seat on the factory alarm connection except the rear hatch trigger. I really just wanted it for the electric door locks. And I did have a bad lock timer, took that apart and resoldered the connections and that all works, though I'm not crazy about it locking the doors on me. That is one of things I would like to eliminate.

Yes I put the engine in complete, It was a pain... but I was able to get to all of the bolts. A few swivel joints and such to get to a few of them. My motor had everything on it including the exhaust manifolds. Only thing that wasn't on was the upper intake manifold which was easy enough other than the 2 rear water hoses to the upper manifold wear leaking (because I didn't slip on the clamps)... but after that I was good. Just took some patience to get those connected as there isn't a whole lot of space there. I'm wanting to do a body lift, I wish I would have done that first.

I just did a swap and used parts from Mr 510. The swap was very straightforward and included a Xtera Oil pickup, modified alternator bracket and the crank pulley all bought from Mr 510. The water pump needs to be modified with a cutoff wheel or hacksaw as you use a VG30 water pump and cut a notch on one side to fit. My 2000 pathfinder motor appeared to have the exact same oil pan, but it was slightly damaged from the motor sitting on it, so I swapped it with my vg30 pan. My motor was sourced off Craigslist for $400 and it was a JDM motor with about 110K on it. It was pretty clean inside, but I went ahead and did a full rebuild on it.

You've just got to swap the oil pickups. I used one from an Xtera in my vg33 swap with my vg30 oil pan.

A couple of things to share with others: Probably a VG thing, but wasn't clear to me. After putting on my timing belt as I rotated the motor by hand, I noticed the timing belt marks and the cam pulleys were off. Don't panic as I did and redo the whole thing. This is by design. It walks 1 cog to the right with each stroke of the engine. The important thing is the relationship between the bottom pulley and the cam pulleys. I kept the VG30 cams, I can't tell you if that makes a difference as I bought this thing, drove it once (home) with a nasty oil leak and 285K on it. I was happy it made it home. It actually ran pretty good, but the smell of the exhaust was horrid. Valve cover screws though tight where not tight enough causing my first test drive to have an oil leak. Easy fix, I ended up putting a stainless washer on top of the screw as to not eat the rubber washer. No more leaks. My coolant sensor wasn't pushed on all the way, giving me a nice little check engine light, easy fix. It now runs like a top! I couldn't be happier, $700 for the Pathfinder + $400 for a VG33 + $250 crank pulley, brackets, belts + $100 clutch + $250 valve job + $150 gasket set + $70 timing belt and new water pump + $40 front and rear pads + $40 alarm to get my keyless entry back (Previous owner couldn't find the key fobs) + $20 white face gauges which really give it a newer look inside. So in total right around $2K which was my goal. I fixed a few gremlins, Power door locks required removing the lock timer in the hatch and resoldering the main relay. Door switches all replaced. My hatch light doesn't yet work, still tracking that one down. I did use the VG33 fan, which is a little different than the VG30 (less blades but wider). I plan to go electric as I hate hearing the fan when I start it.

Bought a fender and a can of Automotive spray paint (I think I paid $40 with a can of clear coat)... I am truly impressed. The color was SPOT ON. Before After

Did my brakes yesterday and by far the EASIEST brake job I have ever done! Rear disc's didn't require any turning the pistons to get them to retract they just went right back in with a C-Clamp. Dual piston front calipers was a nice surprise.

I would plug your plugs one at a time to identify the bad injector. Should be able to find it. I thought I'd read somewhere that the VG30 fires from group mode and switches to batch mode past a certain RPM. I think there was a TSB on it where Nissan was reflashing cars. Seems odd yours is a certain RPM. Perhaps when it switches modes. I suspect you have a shorted injector that is bring the whole system down when it switches to batch mode. (Just a thought)

Okay I've got the new alarm in and to answer peoples questions about the alarm having a starter disable, my 93 factory alarm does. It is the 2 black wires seperate from the alarm harness. I have identified the following wires going to the alarm under the drivers seat: Key in Power Acc switched Power always on Gnd Parking Lights Interior light Door lock Door unlock What I am looking for now is the hatch unlock. Anyone know where that wire is (other than the switch on the dash?)

My Pathfinder has the factory alarm, I have a Valet switch in the console and the brain appears to be under the drivers seat. I need to replace it. I bought a aftermarket system. Any hits or tips, wiring info in doing this? (I never had the factory key fobs) and for the price of key fobs I bought a whole new system. I plan to just use it mainly for a door opener and hatch remote.

Just don't forget those amps come at a cost... More drag on your motor... Back when I did Stereo comp stuff I put a 120 amp alternation to replace my stock one and you could honestly feel to power zapped from my 4 cylinder. When I broke the alternator case I put the stock one back in and the power was back. Quite noticeable.

sounds like fade, drilled vented rotors would probably help. I put a some on my Ford at all 4 corners when I did a lift and bigger tires and it seemed to help. I also went with the ceramic pads. (my ford had 4 wheel disc brakes).

I've just installed a VG33 into my 93 and used the VG33 fan (slightly different). I hate the fan noise from the motor... and am thinking of going electric. Question is where can I run the thermo switch to? Anyone done this? What size fan did you use, I'm thinking a 3500 CFM 16" but that might be overkill.

It's alive! It fired right up, but I had a water leak at one of those small hoses at the back of the manifold, so I pulled the manifold, Should be on the road soon!

Does match the manual... Which is what was throwing me off. Or even the VG33: