daczone

I actually mounted the actuator to the original hardware exactly where the strut was on the drivers side.

Okay after a recent ride in my pathfinder I wanted to be able to pop the back window open just a bit for my dog. Then I thought why not just replace one of the gas struts with a linear actuator. So that is what I set out to do this morning. This is my proof of concept video... I have painted everything black and running wires to the front. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/755737/pathfinder/IMG_0271.MOV I measured my strut and decided a 6" unit would work perfectly. Remember I want to be able to drive down the road with my glass open so anything longer would have required some sort of electronic stop. So from fully closed to fully open it works perfectly. I used the original strut mounts. Specs on the actuator: Maximun Load: 225 lbs Speed: 12 mm/Second 16 1/16'' Extended Length & 10 1/16'' Compressed Length

The issue with LED's the they all use a FAN to keep them from burning up. Loose the fan and you loose your lights. And we all know how reliable small fans are. I bought some HID's and got the Bi-Xenon with hi-beams. I hate to just through them in and blind other drives... am in need of some plastic lens to retro some lens into. Heck with the Pathfinders lights, you could do separate hi-beams.

Mine seems to shift okay... Just whines louder than I would like. Tranny fluid condition is unknown but I'm thinking it might be fresh. When I bought it a few months back the previous owner seems to have changed everything. I did the rear diff 2 weeks ago and brand new fluid came out. The oil filter had a date written on it. I think she did this for the sale... Too bad all the other items weren't taken care of. $25 is nothing, a few cups of coffee and a couple of bucks on a lottery ticket. Good to hear that it make things quieter. I looked into rebuilding it myself and that looks like a CRAZY process.

Thank You... $50 is reasonable... But begs the question, would you spend $25 more and get the Redline MT Synthetic? I can find that locally and wouldn't have to pay for shipping.

Does anyone make a plastic light for the Pathfinder? Thinking I could retro a set of HID's into it.

Decided it was cheaper to replace the entire that than by bulbs and replace my cracked lens. These are the 15 watt models (5 LEDs 3 Watts each). The mounted right up in the same location, but do stick out slightly. I may modify the mount and make them flush.

Yeah I have looked everywhere and the only GL-4 is Redline in my area. I even looked online and couldn't find anything under $15 a quart. I was talking about just adding 1 quart to push the level up.

So if my transmission whines (285k on it)... Am I good to add 1 quart of GL-5 oil on it to bring it past the FILL point? I'd really hate to waste $100 on GL-4 oil in an old transmission that may need to be replaced in the near future.

Yeah I guess it says Touring (Not sport)... but the switch doesn't seem to do anything. There is an LED on it that never comes on. I'm guessing it's unplugged or a fuse issue. I know I do have the electric shocks for sure. We'll see if that makes a difference in ride.

So I bought a HOMELINK mirror for my pathfinder and am thinking of adding heated seats, but wanted to discuss ride quality.. Does the pathfinder ride rough or do I need to grease fittings and replace the shocks? I have the orginal shocks with the electric SPORT setting (or whatever the button says... Sorry don't recal) and it doesn't feel bouncy which is what I think shocks control, but feels like a stiff ride. Certainly no Toyota Tacoma which is what I am comparing it to.

I'm no stranger to motor swaps... I did a RX7 Turbo into a Suzuki Sidekick a few years back. But after replacing my VG30 with a VG33 I must say I'm not sure much else would fit without changing to a SAS setup. The Nissan oil pan drops between the axle and transmission. I'm sure lots of motors would physically fit. But the oil sump would create issues. I did a VG33 swap in mine on the cheap and couldn't be more pleased.

What's it take to rebuild it? Not a do it yourself project?

I'm really surprised that Nissan... Or anyone else for that matter couldn't make a fill tube extension. They know there was an issue, why not fix it? Oh wait don't get my started on Nissan doing the right thing (Frontier Timing Tensioner issues), not to mention the poor guy that owns this site: http://nissan.com/ Anyway... My transmission whines, am I doomed or should I just overfill it and keep on driving.

Bought this on Ebay... Hopefully it will fit... I do realize I will need to cut some pipe.

Thank You... I plan on doing that this weekend... Didn't make it last weekend.

Every fog light I have seen as the lens cracked. (Mine do)... I was going to replace mine with some LED units. I do like the white lens, I didn't notice if those are still on it.

I thought higher numerical gearing = lower gear.. IE: 1st - 4th gears are all more than 1:1 So higher numerical = higher RPM. 1:4.63 is higher than the 1:4.3 so more RPM's If you went with real big tires you'd want an even lower gear (higher number) 1:5.x to compenstate for the tire size. I'm Confused

They'd probably cost $30 each side. but still a bargain... I paid $180 for my set. Near Portland? http://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/JN8HD17Y4SW006218 On this Red Nissan... Row 30

Ah yes... On the right track. I went to the wrecking yard today and replaced those 3 hoses, but I had them on wrong. I had vacuum going to the EGR valve 100% of the time. So after a quick replacement and test drive it is working perfectly. So hopefully this helps someone else. (Found a set of Warn Hubs on a Pathfinder at U-Pull-It, Too bad I just bought brand new ones).

So I get this check engine code... It comes on after driving for a bit. If I hammer the gas pedal for 10-15 seconds it will go away or if I lift off for 10-15 seconds it will go away. I have checked my wiring and everything appears to be connected. I don't think I have a bad sensor because it didn't do this with my old motor, but I may try to change it out. I've also read it's a PITA to replace. Any ideas?

Okay so I have the HG46 code. It's an SE that came with the 31" tires. My RPM's don't seem too back at 55. So I have the lower gearing? Higher RPM?

Ahh... Maybe, Although the default is Passive Arming. FEATURE DEFAULT LED ON SETTINGS LED OFF SETTINGS NUMBER (PRESS TRANSMITTER BUTTON I) (PRESS TRANSMITTER BUTTON II) 1 Active Arming Passive Arming 2 Confirmation Chirps ON Confirmation Chirps OFF 3 Ignition-Controlled Ignition-controlled Door Lock/Unlock ON Door Lock/Unlock OFF 4 Active Locking Passive Locking 5 0.8-second Door Lock Pulse Duration 3.5-second Door Lock Pulse Duration 6 Double Pulse Unlock OFF Double Pulse Unlock ON 7 Code Hopping Technology ON Code HoppingTechnology OFF NOTE: Factory defaults are indicated in bold type. 1 ACTIVE/PASSIVE ARMING: When active arming is selected, the system will only arm when the transmitter is used. When set to passive, the system will arm automatically 30 seconds after the last door is closed. Passive arming is indicated by the rapid flashing of the LED when the last protected entry point is closed. 4 ACTIVE/PASSIVE LOCKING: If passive arming is selected in Feature 1, then the system can be programmed to either lock the doors when passive arming occurs, or only lock the doors when the system is armed with the transmitter. Active locking means the system will not lock the doors when it passively arms. Passive locking means that the system will lock the doors when it passively arms.

Yeah I couldn't find anything in the manual about these weird locks. So I have a bad timer? Are my doors ever suppose to autolock? The factory alarm has been removed. Hmmm maybe my aftermarket alarm is doing it.

Well it's no surprise I did not get a call back. The dealer kept telling me it wasn't a valid VIN. So I pulled a CARFAX. Argh... I'm going down there tomorrow. More tomorrow...