Terranovation
-
Posts
903 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
10
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Terranovation
-
-
Yes, you have to take the cover off. As for cleaning the contacts, I know how to do the headlight switch, not so sure on the cruise control one as I don't have cruise. I'd assume it's the same principle though of opening it up and finding the cause. The other thing I would check is the fuse for it, if it has one?
-
My temp gauge takes about 5-6 minutes to start moving from the C mark in the morning. I've been using Tectaloy 90 which is a strong coolant mix with increased protection from heat. There's another one which is Tectaloy 60 and not as concentrated. Then I was thinking should I use 50/50 distilled water and Tectaloy 60. What would be the best way to get it warming up quicker?
-
Be cautious if you are doing the electric fan conversion. I've read that if you don't upgrade to a beefier alternator then your stock 70 amp alternator won't be able to handle running the electric fan, which can lead to flat battery, damaged alternator and even worse if the fan doesn't come on because of insufficient voltage then you get overheating radiator and stuffed water pump.
-
1
-
-
Contacts inside the switch might need cleaning.
-
Sounds like that's all good, is the problem fixed? Looking at your battery, those terminals could do with a good wire brushing.
-
Another thing to add, don't slap too much filler on in one go. Apply it and build it up in layers ie apply one layer and allow it to dry awhile, then apply the next layer. Keep going in that fashion until the filler is level with or just slightly higher than the existing bodywork. Use a nice clean plastic trowel for a sharp finish. Usually they include the plastic trowel with the filler kits but you can buy bigger ones for bigger jobs.
-
If it's a fairly big size hole there's a couple of options. Weld in sheet metal then zap off the metal dags with grinder if you have one, light bog over that to smooth it then primer. Then there's the cheaper option, get some fly wire, and tape it inside the hole so the filler has something to grab onto. I prefer to use fibreglass than bog though. It's just easier to use but that's my opinion.
-
Definitely put the wires back where they belong? Ok, if so and everything is on correctly, I assume while you have been using another alternator the charge has depleted a bit with your battery. You can go for a 45 min drive during the day (lights off, radio off, basically have all accessories off) to recharge the battery, or other option is recharge the battery with an external charger. That should get you back up to 14 volts. Remember - alternators do not recharge a nearly dead battery! If you try to rely on the alternator charging a nearly dead battery, this accelerates wear and tear on your alternator, because it has to work harder to provide an electrical charge. The alternator provides an extra 2 volts in theory (battery at 12 volts with engine off, 14 volts with engine on) it provides a charge to your battery to run accessories such as lights, radio, phone chargers etc. Driving all day with accessories off can put an overload on a car battery, causing it to be overcharged due to the alternator amps which is why you see taxi drivers and buses leave their lights on all day so the battery stays at a safe level.
-
You can poke the test light into the wires themselves if your test light has a sharp enough point on it. Just pierce through the plastic housing on the wire if you can.
-
When the RACV won't insure it because it's too old but will provide 24 hr roadside assistance.
-
When you call a wreckers for parts and you say it's for a Terrano. Silence on the other end... then they say "What's the VIN number??!??"
-
1
-
-
Ok, looking at the transmission repair guide for the RE4R01A (assuming that is your trans)
You should have a power shift switch on your dash. Set it to the 'auto' position. The following steps will diagnose what the problem may be.
1. Start engine and warm up to normal operating temp.
2. Turn ignition to 'OFF' position.
3. Set power shift switch to AUTO position.
4. Set overdrive switch 'ON'
5. Select lever to P
6. Turn ignition to 'ON' do not start engine
7. Does power shift indicator lamp light up for about 2 seconds?
If yes, continue on.
1. Turn ignition to 'ACC' position.
2. Move lever to D position.
3. Set overdrive switch 'OFF'
4. Turn ignition to 'ON' do not start engine.
5. Wait two seconds after switching to 'ON' position.
6. Move lever to '2' position.
7. Set overdrive switch 'ON'
8. Move lever to '1' position.
9. Set overdrive switch 'OFF'
10. Depress accelerator fully and release.
11. Count the flashes on the power shift lamp.
It's a sequence of ten steady flashes. The one you are looking for is a long pause between flashes. So if you get four flashes then a pause before the rest of the sequence, then no.5 is the problem.
Listed below is the numbers and what problem they refer to.
1.Revolution sensor circuit is short circuited/disconnected.
2.VSS circuit is short circuited/disconnected
3.Throttle position sensor circuit.
4.Shift solenoid valve A circuit.
5.Shift solenoid valve B circuit.
6.Overrun clutch solenoid valve circuit.
7.Torque converter clutch solenoid valve circuit.
8.Fluid temp sensor is disconnected/AT control unit damaged.
9.Engine speed signal circuit.
10.Line pressure solenoid valve circuit.
Finally, if the light is on continuously from the power shift switch, it means the inhibitor switch, overdrive switch, kickdown switch or idle switch circuit is disconnected or A/T control unit is damaged.
-
2
-
-
Basically be in an area where you know a good radio signal is ie near the city, have the condenser screwed to the alternator and the ground wire connected, usually on one of the through bolts on the alternator. Just unscrew one of those bolts and slip the connector in then tighten it up. If you are still getting static, check the fuse. It might be something else.
-
When you say you had a trans leak and you fixed it, where was it leaking from? The pan gasket?
-
I think the best thing would be in an open area with good visibility all around. So if the walkers are coming you have lots of open area to run to. The worst place to be is a cramped area like an alleyway, where they would be coming from both sides, or barricading yourself into a room with no other way of escape. At least find a factory with multiple rooms, so if they make their way in, you can at least lock one or multiple doors, trapping them inside then escape via other rooms.
-
Did you replace the fluid that came out? Check with car running and lever in P. Fluid temp has to at or above 80 centigrade. Level on dipstick show be in the crosshatched 'H' region.
-
Car radios are designed largely with a built-in shield against alternator-generated static. When a condenser is used, one of the leads connects to the alternator and one connects to ground. When a difference in voltage exists between the leads, a field is generated. Excess energy stores in the insulator, shielding the radio from the interference that would otherwise be discharged.
So yes, use the condenser on your Maxima alternator, if it doesn't already have one. I wouldn't operate the alternator without one, otherwise you'll pick up that static on your radio.
-
1978 Datsun 200b raugh raugh raugh (Tim tool time man grunts)
-
Double check the wiring on the back of the alternator. Might have something blocking the electrical connections so spray clean them out with electrics cleaner, then check the battery charge with it running. If the battery is at 13.6v or above then it's all good. If the battery is still at 12v or under then it's the alternator.
-
Fixed the highbeam issue by adjusting the headlight switch. It was a 15 min job cleaning up the contacts with a bit of sandpaper.
-
1
-
-
So weird that there has been a spate of electrical problems with Pathys lately. Must be that time of the month.
-
Nice find! I really want that Terrano 4wd Sports wheel cover..I also am intrigued with that console box that fits behind between the rear seats. Looks like its made out of wood.
-
1
-
-
Aha, I think I know where that green/yellow wire goes. It's part of one of your coolant sensors. Looking at mine I can see a green/yellow wire going to the thermostat housing. There should be three sensors going into the side of your thermostat housing, at least on my TD27 there are. It's the one closest to the radiator. I'd say looking at yours the PO was having problems with the coolant overheating or something so it been pulled out. But if it's removed it might be a cause of hard starting, because the computer thinks "hmm something is amiss so I'm not going to start up."
-
Nissan Navara D21 bar might fit. Try ringing around, ARB might have something.
Quick coolant question
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
Ok, so I guess Il drain out two litres (about half a gallon) and put distilled water in to dilute with the Tectaloy 90 and Il see how that goes. I don't think it's the thermostat. The water pump doesn't leak and I haven't had any problems with leaks in this since 2005. It's tight as a drum and I change the coolant once a year to stay on the safe side. I know it says something like 3 years/100,000k on the bottle but I don't trust that. Lol