Terranovation
-
Posts
903 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
10
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Terranovation
-
-
My air con was making a chirp sound when I turned it on. Found the clutch plate on the front of the compressor that makes contact with the metal was rubbing when the switch I activated. I got some ATF and put it in a spray bottle, gave the front of the compressor a few atf squirts, no more noise. I use atf for everything, cleans and lubes, it's great stuff.
-
Shouldn't even need to buy a panel removal tool, I just used an old butter knife to pop out the plastic clips holding the door panel. Just slide in under the clip then turn the knife in a twisting action to get them out. Usually after getting a couple out, there's enough room to get your hand in there and just start removing slowly and the rest pop out. There should be 14 clips IIRC.
-
These are the original side rails on mine.
This first pic shows the mounting bracket bolt circled in red, with a rubber bung circled in green as a reference point. Yours should be identical if you look under there behind your front wheel.
This shows three mounting points. Added up, there's about 16 bolts in total.
There's two mounting bolts at the rear wheel arch.
Final pic shows a view looking towards the front, with the gap between the body and the frame rail where the side rails fit in beautifully. Hope these pics are of some use and good luck
-
I have the factory boards on my Terrano, I'll take some photos and post them later.
-
No worries, glad to help. Don't know about the back up lights issue, it might be fuse so check the cabin fuse panel. Might even be a good idea to pull all the fuses and replace with brand new ones just for peace of mind.
-
How did you go with the headlight removal or did you just swivel them out to change bulbs? Remember to re aim your lights too. Best way to do it is park about 10 ft from a wall, then put tape against the wall with the tape line 3 ft high from the ground. Then screw the adjusters in until the top edge of the beam makes it to the tape line. Screw the adjusters on the sides of the headlight in until the beams are inwards but only slightly. The headlights should appear straight. Best to do in a dark garage.
-
To remove the door panel, start by prying up the round plastic retainer on the inside of your arm rest. You'll see it down in there where the inside door handle is. Unscrew the Phillips head in there. Now you should be able to slide the arm rest back then lift out. Remove the plastic rim that surrounds the interior door latch. Unscrew three bolts behind the arm rest, they are attached to the inside of the door panel, unclip the wiring that connects electric windows then start popping off all your round plastic retainers holding the door card on. They are white round plastic ones. The first one is at the bottom corner of the door. Once you get one off you can just start pulling gently and the rest will just pop out but be careful not to tear the flimsy card board material.
This sounds like a lot of work but once you get into the guts of it it's pretty easy compared to other vehicles. I want to replace my crappy door cards with some stronger material one day, I'm thinking mdf board would be better.
-
1
-
-
Yes they should swivel outwards but you'll have to hold onto the headlight to avoid it dropping, should just rest it on the edge of the bumper once you swivel it out. If you want to you can even remove the entire headlight by pulling up hard to pop the plastic ball joint out of the socket. Just be careful with the age of the plastic but they are quite tough. If your headlights have dirt in them now would be a good time to vacuum them out or even get them apart to clean with lens cleaner. I never took mine apart but it looks like they have metal clips around the edges that can be removed then I guess some sort of glue holds the glass to the plastic surround.
-
1
-
-
I did a write up on how to change a headlight bulb maybe check that out. There is another way of accessing the rear of the headlights but it involves removing the entire front grille, then you can unscrew the headlight adjusters all the way out and remove the bolts (don't lose them) then you can pivot the headlight out by swinging it to one side to have at the rear of the headlight. The headlight is connected to a metal bracket with a plastic ball joint at the base of it.
-
This is why I never let anyone else change the oil. The last time I ever let a mechanic change my oil was in 2006. The guy didn't change the oil filter
and I know that he didn't because it was still covered in grime. I've been doing my own oil changes ever since then and plus if I make a mistake then I
can only blame myself. It's also peace of mind knowing that you've done the job properly and added the correct oil amount.
-
This is a great mod.
Looks just like mine, the WD21... I wonder if it is also possible....
I often wonder the same thing. Every six months it's best to just take the resistor out and vacuum out the box through the hole, then spray some air freshener in there. If you don't park under trees a lot then a simple inspection once a year wouldn't hurt. 15 minutes for peace of mind.
-
I noticed my head rests were really hard to pull up. I had to really pull to get them out then I, ahem, lubricated the shafts on them using atf using an old medicine dropper and wiped the excess off with a tissue. Now they slide up easily.
-
Found the PO had wired the front spotties in a weird way. They seemed to run out of wire going to the positive terminal, so just jammed a bare wire in between the two wires then of course, wrap it in five feet of electrical tape. That should hold it, yeah.
-
I just flushed mine out, it's surprising to see how much sand comes out of there even though they appear clean.
-
Check battery connections are tight? Maybe something bumped loose when you pulled into the driveway?
-
Or when you jump in the passenger seat and marvel at the abundance of leg room compared to new vehicles.
-
1
-
-
When the metal plate behind the glove box resembles part of a WWII ammo box.
-
1
-
-
The dumb thing that the PO did to mine was cut the existing wiring loom for the stereo so when I went to install my new stereo I had to undo each damn wire lock that the guy put in there, also a crap load of sticky electric tape he put like ten windings of the stuff in there.
-
1
-
-
Helped a lady out with her flat battery, her poor old mother was also with her and had mild heat exhaustion. I help jump start their battery and told her to keep the car running for half an hour to recharge it. As I was driving away they were still sitting there. I said to her "you can drive the vehicle." Poor woman didn't know anything.
-
1
-
-
It might be flooded maybe try pressing the gas pedal to the floor while turning it over.
-
Something like this should help you. Obviously you need a relay to power the accessories you want to run with an inline fuse to the positive terminal and your switch will go to that relay in order to turn things on/off.
-
If they're already holding the screwdriver they're about to jam into the lock, I doubt the plastic would do much... unless they got confused and thought you'd converted to push-button start or something.
Yeah that's the idea, it might at least confuse them. I was bored and just mucking around lol
-
Correct. Ok, please check your ground wiring for the starter. Even remove the bolt to the chassis, wire brush the metal until it's clean then reinstall the ground connection. The connection to the starter is good too?
Also, if you can push start it, check the voltage of the battery with the engine running. It should be somewhere from 13.8 - 14.5 volts. If it's around 12.5 or less then alternator isn't charging the battery but you said the alternator was ok.
Wouldn't hurt just to double check it. Also, do your headlights work but nothing else? If that's the case then check the wiring near positive terminal on the battery, check the fusible link isn't busted.
-
Check battery terminal connections- are they good and tight? You might want to also try testing the voltage. It's gotta have at the minimum 11 volts to start the engine. At rest, batteries should have a voltage from 12 - 12.7 volts.
Secondly, check the wires going to the back of the alternator. Is it secured and tight? Try pulling at the wire to see if it's loose.
Third, check the fuses under the dash next to the driver's seat. Nothing blown there? Ok good.
Try taking off the battery terminals and clean everything with a wire brush until it's shined up with no corrosion. Take the negative cable off first, then the positive cable to ensure no sparks. Reinstall positive, then negative. Tighten clamps.
To me it sounds like the battery might be on it's way out. You said it would start after a couple of tries. That is symptomatic of a failing battery. If it's manual have you tried push starting?
Odd electric issues... engine work was easier
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
You go ahead and buy one if you want. I know that I can get plastic ones but I'd rather save my money. Butter knife and a bit of electrical tape wrapped around the metal works for me.