Terranovation
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Posts posted by Terranovation
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My guess is they are loose and not connected to the + terminal properly. That was the issue with mine, the wires were just jammed in there so I crimped sone ring connectors on the ends of the wire then attached them to the through bolt on the + terminal.
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Is the switch for the transmission switched to the 'hold' position? If so, the transmission will be taking off in 2nd gear, not 1st. Make sure the switch is in the middle 'automatic' position. If so, then the switch is bad and needs investigation. You can pop it out from the dash using a flathead screwdriver with a bit of electrical tape on the end so you don't gouge your plastic.
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Replaced blown stereo fuse which involved pulling the whole thing out because the tiny 10a fuse is on the back of the stereo and it's impossible to get my fat hand in there. Screwed everything back in then wondered why I wasn't getting any stations. Ohh, forgot to connect the aerial plug lol
*unscrews everything again*
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Toilet paper. Lots and lots of toilet paper.
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Maybe the connection inside that module were dirty and need a clean, especially being under a car seat where sand, dust etc can collect.
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Oh well, time to go to your local auto store and get a new battery hold down clamp. The kit comes with the clamp and two metal rods with the screw connectors on the ends. The other end of the rod has a hook where it should loop into a hole down either side of the battery stand. They are only like $10.
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No worries and remember to disconnect negative terminal before playing with wires.
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After becoming stranded on a freeway on ramp with a blown fusible link, I rewired it by installing some metal loop connectors and attached it via the tightening nut on the + terminal. Cleaned everything up with CLR and taped up any exposed wiring. Reverse safety switch fuse had blown to so new 10a fuse and she's working again.
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Sounds like you need to check the internals of that indicator/light assembly switch. Inside there are brass contacts that when you turn the lights on, the brass 'finger' will close making contact with the small magnet underneath.
So undo your plastic steering wheel column again, remove the two screws holding the switch assembly and unplug from the ignition.
Take off the plastic cover of the switch by prying off with a small screwdriver. From memory there are tiny plastic clips which hold it on and they have a tendency to go flying into the great unknown. Don't panic if you lose the cover though. Mine has been running quite comfortably without it.
Inspect the ignition connector pins for any damage. Inspect the brass fingers for any damage. Get some fine grade sandpaper and clean the contacts underneath each brass finger.
From the sounds of it, the indicator brass finger is coming into contact with one headlight brass finger, so you are getting a power crossover. I'd fix this soon before it melts your ignition switch or something.
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You should watch this, in the video he talks about how his tacho was dodgy and bouncing and found it relates to the fusible link. My guess is your connection isn't good.
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All fixed, it was just a blown fuse. Found in the fuse compartment next to drivers seat, bottom row 2nd from the right, 10a red fuse. Phew lucky I didn't have a burnt control module! I've seen it's happened to a few other owners. Reverse is working again!
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Aha yes when you press the brake pedal, there should be a click noise as the P is disengaged, I will look into that. So the switch should be somewhere near the brake pedal.
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where abouts is the fusable link?
Should be right next to your + battery terminal connected to there.
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Went to reverse and gear stick wouldn't budge. Had to push safety switch next to the gear lever down to get it to reverse, which it does. This is an auto trans and fluid is clean, is there a way of resetting the safety switch?
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I placed tweeters up above rear windows, the roof molding you can pull down to hide wiring through and I just wired them to the rear boot speakers. I also have a couple of small box speakers mounted down in front of the rear seats I just wired everything to rear speakers. I pulled out the ugly rear speakers and bolted in a couple of home theatre floor stand jobs. It's pretty awesome if I may say so lol.
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Check fusible link connector mine was doing the same thing and I found the connector was full of road grime. Don't ask me how road grime gets into a connection but it was in there. Spray it out with electrics cleaner and maybe tape it up to stop it happening again.
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I have a TD27 and in Australia we have quite a warm climate so I use Semi synthetic 15w50. It's a thicker oil but it's needed especially in summer.
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Wouldn't start this morning, totally dead! 13 volts at the battery. Checked fusible link connector, was full of road grime. Cleaned it out and she starts right up! Thinking about cutting out the whole fusible link section and using some heavy gauge wire with an 80a fuse so if it happens again it's just a matter of replacing the fuse instead of fiddling with wires.
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Could be fusible link connector, my tach was bouncing from 800 rpm down to 0 and the connections to fusible link were found full of grimey stuff.
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Replaced my alternator today with the old one I got back from the electrician that had a refurbish. No more grinding noise and the charging isn't the best so now I'm suspecting it's the battery. If it's not one thing it's another.
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Amazing what a bit of love and care can do for these Pathys. Nice work man!
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To do a proper trans fluid level check, drive for 20 minutes so trans is fully warmed up, check the fluid level with the vehicle on flat surface, gear in 'P' and engine is running. Check the fluid is within the HOT mark on the dipstick. You can use Dexron III ATF although in the service manual it says II but III is fine. Do not use DEXRON IV or anything else. I would start by giving the bottom of the trans pan a good decrease and wipe off with an old rag, go for a drive for 10 or so minutes then see where it's coming from. Maybe like you said the previous owner put the gasket on the wrong way or didn't use sealant? Maybe they overtighten it?
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Discovered a good method for removing side mirror glass out of it's plastic housing - feeler gauge tool or spark plug gap measuring tool. It's a good sliver of metal to wedge in and run it around the edge of the glass to pop it out. My mirror had an annoying rattle and would you believe there was a coin behind it. Only 5 cents though. Beats me how it got in there. I think the PO had a rattle from there and tried gluing a coin in it but when the coin got loose it became a new rattle lol.
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If the water pump is leaking then yeah replace it. I thought most water pumps came with the fan clutch ad part of the whole assembly or maybe you can buy them separate?
Is this fixable?
in General Forums
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I'm concerned that you are using flamey stuff around wood logs lol. Anyway, good job looks like it will survive.