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Terranovation

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Posts posted by Terranovation

  1. Next to the 4wd symbol might be a light saying A.T.P. The ATP light comes on when the transfer case is in Neutral and the transmission is in Park. It's there to alert the driver that putting the transmission in Park will not prevent the vehicle from rolling since the axles are disconnected from the transmission's park pawl.

    If the transfer case is not actually in Neutral, then it's just a sensor glitch.

     

    This light indicates that the automatic transmission parking function is not engaged. If the transfer control lever is not secured in any drive position while the automatic transmission selector lever is in the P (Park) position, the transmission will disengage and the vehicle may move unexpectedly. Shift the transfer control lever into the 2H, 4H, or 4L position when the warning light comes on

    • Like 1
  2. Vacuumed the whole interior after driving along then a mini sand storm blew up. Unfortunately I had my window down and sand was everywhere! Sand on the seats, in the vents, on the carpet, sand on the dash. Took me about an hour cleaning it all then had a shower and was picking sand out of places I won't mention.

    • Like 1
  3. Got around to installing my small t5 led globes in the dash to match the existing leds. It was a mission having to turn the key after installing each bulb to make sure it worked and if not, pulling the bulb holder, turning it around and reinstalling. Found that a majority of the bulb holders I had to bend in the tiny metal arms on the bulb holder so the leds would slot in without falling out. Installed a total of 17 globes for the P,R,N,D,2,1 tree, the glow plug light, high beam, park brake indicator, battery, oil pressure, O/D light, clock illumination, trans temp overheat indicator, one in the dash at the 0 mark on the tach and rear defog indicator. Interestingly I found there was no globe in the high beam spot and now all red coloured lenses are pinkish, the green lenses are now a light blue, orange lenses are now yellow and the clock is blue. It's different to what I expected but I like the changes. Will post pic.

  4. I'm sticking with my Terrano for as long as possible, it's age is making it look kinda funky! Plus other drivers look at it like "what is that?" because you are lucky if you see one like mine once a week that's how rare they are getting, not even hardly any parts in junk yards. I think in a few more years time the price is going to go up on these old iron trucks.

  5. If you need help getting the speedometer needle straightened I managed to fix it, here's how -

    Remove the cluster first obviously.

    Lower the steering column. It's impossible to remove the cluster without lowering the steering wheel.

    Next, remove the 6 screws holding the steering column cover together and remove the top.

    Next, remove the 4 screws holding the plastic trim around the edges of the cluster. Then grab the edges both sides and pull firmly towards yourself. The bottom part of the trim is secured by metal clips which will pop out. If a metal clip falls out you will be able to easily put it back in place.

    Next, unclip the wiring harness to your rear window defog and any others that are behind that plastic trim.

    The cluster itself is held in by 4 screws, 2 at the top and 2 on the bottom. Pull the cluster forward carefully and unplug the connections behind it. The connectors have easy to remove squeeze and remove connectors.

    Taking the cluster inside to a clean area, take a small screwdriver and unscrew the small screw on the clock adjusting knob. Be careful you don't lose the tiny screw and knob.

    Now you can separate the two halves of the cluster. Do not attempt to remove the plastic screen, it will break or snap easily. You'll be looking for the plastic tabs on thr outer edge holding the shell together. Squeeze them down and push inwards. It's a little tricky but once you get a couple pushed in just keep going until you feel the shell pushing apart until it's finally separated.

    Now you can remove the speedometer needle. Clean hands. Wind the needle up till you feel it make a click. It's a bit hard to explain but you should feel a spot where it kinds stops, then just pull it up and off.

     

    Heat up the kettle and get a coffee mug. You want the water to be hot, but not boiling hot because it will melt the plastic needle more. You just want it very hot. Dunk the needle into the hot water for about 15 seconds then bend it back carefully with your finger. It should be quite pliable. Dunk it again and bend again. Then get a couple of flat heavy surfaces and stick the needle between them and leave overnight if you can. Big heavy book worls with a weight on the top, like some bricks or an old car battery sitting on top of the book would be good. This will ensure the needle gets straightened as possible. While the cluster is out would also be a good opportunity to change all of the cluster bulbs to leds for an easier to read dash.

    • Like 4
  6. I know this might sound ridiculous but I read that atf can clean injectors. I was curious. I took a small bottle of atf to the petrol station, added only a small amount about 100ml to a full tank and I found after a couple of atf treatments I have increased my mileage by 50 kms (31.25 miles) so I am certain that atf works to clean the fuel system. After both refills these tests were done without running the air con to get a consistent result and was a combination of traffic/freeway conditions.

  7. By feeding 1/3 of a can into the vacuum line, Sea Foam will clean the intake valves and pistons, restore power, and remove carbon and varnish residue. The first two uses are relatively easy, you just pour it in and drive. The top-end introduction is a little more tricky. Start by locating a vacuum line. For most vehicles, the power brake boost line will be the easiest. It is vital that the line services all cylinders, so it should be located at or near/under the throttle body or carburetor. Remove the line from the accessory (not the engine side), and start the vehicle.

     

    Copy pasted direct from the Seafoam website.

  8. Keep in mind while you are wiring up your new alty to put the positive cable onto the battery first, then the negative cable last. I accidentally did it the wrong way when reconnecting my battery and fried my fusible link.

    After firing up the engine, check the voltage with a multimeter and if it's at 14 - 14.5 volts then the alternator is charging properly. Another good idea is to charge up the battery before reconnecting the battery cables, so your new alternator isn't going to struggle for trying to charge up a half dead battery.

  9. That is your condensor unit, it is there so that when the alternator is running, you won't get a vibration noise effect coming through the speakers. The wire connects under that bolt on the back. Tbh I threw mine away because I found I wasn't getting any vibrating noise in the speakers so yeah. It's a bit of an antiquated system these vehicles had. Many new speakers on the market have noise cancelling systems in place to prevent engine noises and verberations that would otherwise spoil your tunes and that is most important at 65 mph.

    • Like 1
  10. Switched and constant hot will be your cig socket - on the back of the plug there should be a positive and negative wire which only become active when ignition is on.

    Good tip to remember if you want to keep your new antenna in good shape is to push it down retracted when you park in a shopping car park. These things have a tendency to catch on people's clothing because of the angle they have, people try to squeeze between vehicles and inadvertently snap them.

  11. We'll here's the deal, 2nd gear and Overdrive are non existent. 1st gear works fine and reverse too. I put lucus in the granny, still no change. Where/what's the cooler lines? I should also mentioned that the gear shifter console feels like it's about to burst into flames because it gets so hott..

     

    Sent from my LG-D852 using Tapatalk

    Lol at the 'granny' yes, these auto trans are like old grannies.

  12. Well yeah you could always install a digital gauge near the dash where you can see it easily and connect the sensor probe slotted into the top rad hose. You don't necessarily need those temp sensor attachments that you plumb into the rad hose. Just take the hose off, put your sensor inside the pipe then screw your clamp back on. The sensor has to be waterproof though. There's some dodgy ones that aren't floating around on the internet. By having a proper digital gauge then you'll know exactly when to switch the low speed fan on and in summer or four wheeling up inclines you'll be using the high speed switch. Plus switches are cool! I don't think you really need the fans on over 55 mph as the airflow cools the radiator but I would keep an eye on the temp anyway. If the thermostat is ok it should maintain a correct temperature and warm the engine up quite quickly after morning startup.

  13. Oh the rear panels? You have to pop the original speaker grilles off, then unscrew the speakers and wiring then inside there are 4 bolts that you remove to get that whole plastic speaker mount off. I think that's what you were talking about. I removed mine and bolted in Sony home theatre floor speakers. Slimmer design for more room in the back and sounds better too.

  14. You mentioned that you wired together the ground wires so maybe that is affecting the fan to only run on low speed. Try grounding each negative wire individually and see if that works. If you decide cutting off the connector to make it easier to wire up, you can hide all off your wiring with one of those split convoluted tubes to neaten it all up. Then secure with electrical tape to make it more water tight.

    I'm wondering why the relay would be using the ecu though, as the relay would only be controlling the switch and the fan wiring.

    As for the fan running on low speed all the time, this is why I say ditch the ecu controlled idea and use switches to turn them on or off when required. Or if you want to get tricky, you could try and find a switch that has an auto setting that uses an internal temp control so the fan activates at a certain coolant temp. For this, you could possibly tap into the temp sensor wire.

  15. Yeah so what you can do is cut off that connector then spilt the wiring harness to two relays so your positive wires go to each relay, one for high and the other for low speed. Two switches, wire positive to each individual relay so you can turn them on manually when you need to. Preferably get switches that have an led light so then you know when they are active.

    The one thing you will have to do is get some longer wire happening so you can connect it all up, some male/female crimp connectors and some shrink tubing to fit over and seal your connections from water, dust etc. Another good idea is to label your relays 'H' and 'L' so you know which is high speed and the low speed, just in case of emergencies.

  16. Why not get two relays and run low speed off one and the high speed off the other? Then you need two switches and label one High and the other Low.

    The switch will have a ground wire which you can secure under any bolt on the body that has metal to metal contact.

    The positive wire of the switch runs to pin 86 on the relay.

    Pin 30 is wired with an inline fuse to the positive terminal on battery.

    Pin 87 is for the positive wire of each individual fan setting. So the low fan speed goes to one relay on pin 87 and the high speed fan positive wire goes to pin 87 on the other relay.

    Pin 85 is for a ground so again just wire this to a bolt on the body with metal to metal contact.

    So to summarize -

    Pin 87 - Accessory wire (Fan speed positive wire)

    Pin 86 - Positive wire of switch connect here

    Pin 85 - Ground wire (The ground wire connects to here then the bolt of body)

    Pin 30 - Positive wire connect here with an inline fuse to positive terminal on battery

     

    I hope this helps and good luck!

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