TutorN1

I'm new to wrenching on these, but I've got the same type of shake in the front. Starts at 60 quits when you get close to 70. If you hit a bump at any speed you can feel it. (First time it happened thought there was going to be a quarter size hole in the seat when I got home!) Since then have packet bearing, replaced cv shafts, & had it rotated & balanced a few times. So far nothing has helped it, but it was all things needing to be done anyway to get it back up shape. Just bought a set of shocks & struts. Getting them put on today, and will see if it makes a difference. The ones that were on it were the factory set from 14yrs ago, with 165k on them. It's just my two cents, but check your struts. Can't hurt.

I've started reading over it, & so far what they built it for is basically the same as me. They were hauling a race car, I'll be pulling horses, boats, & a few other things along those lines. So far I've got one question, did they put a rear axle that had disk brakes, or is that OEM on WD21s? I've got an R50 & it's drum, did they change?

Never mind, I went back with tools, & post bust. Redone the battery posts, & it was fine. Tried it before, just never could get the terminals clean I guess.

Well title still fits so I'll just keep this thread going... I had just gone maybe a quarter of a mile from the house to go fishing. After about an hour/hour and a half went to head back and I got nothing! No lights, no click of the starter, even my outside lights nothing? I tried to crank it a couple of times and one all my lights came on, good and bright, tried it and went back to squat. If it's a quick fix great, it's sitting on a pond bank, & I've got work tomorrow!

Thanks for the info, learn something new everyday. I'm not wanting a race motor, just more umf on the hwy, & pulling. 200 -250hp would me perfect for me. I'll try looking Mike Kojima up, & ask some questions.

So if it's a 3.3 the motor will work, is there anybody who has tried building one on here? Just wondering how much more power you can get out of these motors.

Ok, found a R50 in one of my local jy the other day. It had server front damage and was a total. I wasn't able to get the hood up to check the motor in it, but is a post face lift. I have a 99pre. My question is what parts from it won't work on mine? I've thought about, if it was salvageable,to pull the motor and get it built so I could drop it in later. Maybe the same with the tranny, but it a 2wd, mine is 4x4. Any info on it would be of help thanks.

I have an R50, 99, the struts are bad on it, and it's doing the same thing. I can't remember if the WD21 have them or not, but worth checking.

http://northmiss.craigslist.org/cto/4313500654.html This is the link for the 85 Contact info is on the window. These aren't mine, just passing it along.

For anyone who would want one, I've found 2 in my area. One is an 82 280Z, other is an 85 350Z. I'll post the link & pics later.

I got one for ya When you get in your wife's minivan, & you feel like it's the size of a tank!

Don't mean to thread jack, bt I'm in the same boat as cdjflyslow. My struts are SHOT! I'm looking at around &180 - $200 at Advanced Auto, life time replacement, to replace everything all the way around. Will the OEM replacement parts hold up to a 2" HD coil lift later? I will want to put a bumper on too.

Don't mean to thread jack, bt I'm in the same boat as cdjflyslow. My struts are SHOT! I'm looking at around &180 - $200 at Advanced Auto, life time replacement, to replace everything all the way around. Will the OEM replacement parts hold up to a 2" HD coil lift later? I will want to put a bumper on too.

I like that quote too! Learned that the hard way about Fram being junk. What I ment to about the Warns blowing is, that if your putting that much stress all the time, on any of them, something has the give! It's better your hubs than a TC. Like I said it's mine, & my wallets, personal choice to go with MM. If they hold up great, if not lesson learned.

This is just me, but not overly impressed with the Warns. They are good hubs, just want to much for them. They can blow out the same as the other, but when they do you run more chance of getting stuck on the trail. The MM are good quality hub from what I've seen, & read. I was surprised how many on here run them on their trucks. LOL! I'm doing good to come up with the money for the MM right now, the $166 I'm sad to say would be a stretch for me right now. ?

Works for me

When you here "trip" & "LSD" in the same sentence, & think they're talking about off-roading!

http://www.xloffroad.com/index.php/Mile-Marker-435-MileMarker-Supreme-Manual-Hub.html?gclid=CIuloPaftbwCFWwV7AodVxMAmQ#.UvKKtXi9Kc1 The numbers to me work, but would y'all double check me? These have been the best price I've found on any for the R50. FYI Amazon has a set of use Rugged Ridge for the WD21 right now for $55 and change. Free shipping, too. About bought those last night till I got to checking on the spline count. If they're right going to try to order them this afternoon. Thanks, NT

Ok, wanting to make sure I'm looking at the right part. Found a set of MM 435, 28 spline Will these fit my truck, & are these crap?

I run some fuel treatment through in the first couple of weeks of having it. I was getting worse, like theexbrit. Trying to get everybit of MPGs out of mine before adding extra weight on add-ons. The hubs would be a good start in mods, bc they would pay for themselves, eventually. ? I know I need to do a full tune up, had it in mind once taxes came in. That will cover rearend to the wheel bearings in the front. So I know there will be more questions to come. Thanks for all the info on where to start.

On the O2 sensors, where are they located? Better yet, when I put new manifolds on, & pipes can I by pass some of the O2 sensors?

Most of my driving is on hwy, usually around 60-65mph. I'm running it with No extra weight, that's where I hit the 15mpg this last time. Goin to start goin through the fluids. Goin to start with rearend first & move up the line. While fluid is in the topic, does anybody run the Royal Purple motor oil? I've got a few folks here that swear by it. One run it In his 80's model 626, I think. The model that can out in the states with all wheel drive & al wheel steer. Other guy runs it in his drag car. Both say it's a highly detergent, & cleans the inside of the block. The down side is that you have to start replacing seals, bc it make the old one leak. Put new ones on your good. Both of these guys had rebuild there motors fresh when they put it in, so they didn't run into that. NT

Ok, those are all things I need to check then. Air filter is good I know, just change it. The hubs I would like to do any way, but it's hard to make the math add up for just the little mpg it would get me. I hate to say this but I do drive like grandpa on Sunday afternoons. Ever more so now with trying to get the best mpgs I can. Beside we all know these are not Zs, but it can get me in and out where a Z could never go.

Would the manual tranny in the R50 help? Reason this is starting to be an issue is because I'm driving 50-60 miles everyday. This combined with some other unfortunate events with the truck is taking out my funds to do any extra mods.