TutorN1

Ok, finally had a chance to look at it today Is getting spark, even tried to crank and run for a second or two, but once all the fuel was got in quit. Checked the fuel pump fuse it good, also changed the filter. The old one was BAD stopped up! So leaves me two other options that I can think of now, the pump itself, or the ignition coil. They're both factory parts so that puts them at 14-15 yrs old. I know where the pump is, and I think that's the problem, but where is the ignition coil? Thanks in advance ?

Thanks for the input guys! Hey Kyle, how things going for ya? Sorry for the miss leading statement, didn't think about it. It would try to crank. Had good power, and spark. I asked the same thing, I wasn't there when this was going on so I can't say how it sounded. Went by this morning before work to see, but someone had left the key on, so no spark for now. Plugs are good I just did them last week. My farther-in-law, I do trust on cars, said it was acting like it wasn't getting gas. Hadn't thought on the fuss for the pump. I'll check that first. As for the tow worries I've got to keep it civil, the company is family. Can't complain about a free pick-up every now and then. My transfure is the manual version. What's the series number, T10? Again thanks for the input!

Well due to have car trouble with my wife's car I've been driving it to work to get the shop to look at it (Chevy recalls). Yesterday my wife was driving my Pathy around homes and it just died. She cranked it back up, & after about 10mins it did it again. Cranked it back up again, kept her foot on the gas some and it went on. Drove it about 4-5 miles and it quit again. This time it didn't crank. So had to get it towed, and went by this morning to look at it. Got there the key had been left on, so it was dead as dead could be. Plus I'm afraid when they towed it they did on a pull behind, belt was wrapped around wheel. So yesterday wasn't that great!! Now to the problems at hand, first thing to check will be the fuel filter, then if it doesn't work the fuel pump. What would be next up stream from there? Also what do I need to keep an eye out for on the transfer case after being towed?

I'm already familiar with the AC hose, change out my thermostat first of the year after my radiator blew. For y'all that have change the TB already would it be easier to pull grill and radiator out to? I know it can be done with it on, but just to make it easier? I didn't change my coolant lines when that happened before, planning on doing this time around. I've also got an oil leak somewhere, I've got to find it. May try to fix it while I'm in it too. Thanks for the input

Well it's getting on past time to change mine, and seeing as how is not one of those things you can just wait till I brakes, I've got a few questions. First who has the best over all kits? Everything that I've replaced so far has been factory parts, says a lot for Nissan, that the waterpump, & belts need changing too. What kind of time frame am I looking at on changing everything, down time? Anything else that I need to change while it's tore down ie: seals, gaskets? This is still going to be a project that's going to be done later, but I can start getting this lined out. Thanks in advance!

Glad to know I'm not the only one having this problem. Mine just started about a week ago, it's a pain when your hands are full. Try leaning your shoulder against the tire, & then pull the latch. I'm going to make mine go as long as I can. Cable? The carrier latch design must've changed for the R50. It did, they went from the pull handle latch on the bottom on the WDs to a cable pull at the top behind the wheel. I've had both, & prefer the pull handle.

I've got a loose wire somewhere, I got in just now and the lights came on like normal. Weird!

If the dimmer switch goes out will it go out? The switch is still set the same as always.

Cool, I'll check both this afternoon. Can that make the radio quit showing to? You can see a faint light on the head unit when it changes from CD, to FM. Other than that all the light in the head unit are gone to. I've got the Bose system in mine. It on its last leg anyways if it's fried.

Like the title says my dash lights just quit over the weekend. I got out to open a gate, and were fine. When I got back in EVERYTHING was out, even my head unit. Radio still works, & will play CDs, but doesn't show anything. I've checked fuses, & all show good. I'm open to suggestions. Thanks in advance.

Keep in mind tho, in words of Holmes himself "Eliminate all other fact, and the one which remains must be the truth." All I mean is don't just assume they're good because of the miles on them. There's another newer thread of someone having a similar problem with struts on even two weeks old. I'm with B tho tightening our bearings, and wouldn't hurt to grease them. I'm from the old school of doing it at least every year.

Still sounds like something in the struts, wheel bearing have a constant roar/ popping sound going down the road. Told you mine was doing the same thing till I got the front struts done. It started making knocking noises, thought it was bushing wearing out. Turns out the shop put the wrong struts on. Having to go back and do them again, plus top hats. Reason for my rant, did the guy you had so much trouble with do anything to the front? I thought the shop I went to knew what they were doing. You know the one you went to didn't.

How long has it been since you had them put on? Is it vibrations or does it sound more like a knock going down the road?

Took a look at that thread, there was good info there too. I had wondered about the lateral force on the threads. Didn't think it would have that much, but... Was a post about some struts for an early model Camry that would be longer to keep from topping out. Goin to check the numbers.

Don't mean to get off subject, but could you make some extension for your struts to take out the top out? I've got my old set of struts, & have thought about making a set that would just screw on to the top to add the extra hight. Has anyone ever tried it?

I've been doing some maintenance on my truck, & have found something interesting, I think. Mine has all matching numbers, and was built in 12/98. What I've run into is that the front struts are the ones needed for the post facelift, BUT the rears are the pre facelift. KYB techs sent me this today This has been an ongoing issue for the Pathfinder (& Infiniti equivalent) for many years. At one time it was a 3 month window. Nissan has gotten a better handle on it now so the data we purchase is better, but there still are some issues between November and December production. It appears you own one of the truck that must have been built during the first day or so of December. The shock in your hand probably looks like it would install upside down, but you cannot as the shock would not work. The November production part number has the opposite mounting positions. 343388 should solve the problem. All this has got me wondering have I got the only one like this, or are there more?

Got my front struts on yesterday, & the wobble in my front is gone.

Well checked the simple thing first, & it made my feel stupider than normal. Got to checking my fusses, & the one for the mirrors was gone. So took the one for the heated seats, which mine never came with, out & it's working fine now. Anyways thanks for the input, learn from this if nothing else.

No, every time I look in one there's always a big goof guy looking back,.... Creepy! But I'll give that a try too. Hoping to be able to get it to it this next weekend. Thanks for the pointers. ?

It's not in the middle, made sure of that. I checked the FSM, it says it's a 10amp fuse. I can't make heads or tails after that, electrical isn't my strong point. Any idea on what position it would be on the board? Also what would the switch part number be, wouldn't hurt to change it out for its age while I'm at it.

Done a quick search, and the only thing I came up with was on a wd21. They don't do anything, on up, down, or side to side. By what I got of that the fuses are good that runs the mirrors. That is if the r50 has it's rear wiper and mirrors run through the same fuss. I haven't had time to check the back of the switch yet. Was going to see if any of the r50 guys have had the same problem, and if it's maybe a quick fix. For drive ring there fine but for pulling a trailer they're way off. Thanks for the help in advance, Nathan

Mines a 99.5 se with the swing away tire carrier.

I priced the Gabriels, just couldn't find a lot of feedback on 'em. Found a full set front and back of KYBs on Amazon for $190 with free shipping. Everything around here is running $100 +/- each for the 99-01. Then still have a day to two day wait.

Looks like I'm going to be going with KYB myself. I went to pick mine up, & turns out I either ordered the wrong set, or they gave me the wrong set. I've got a full set for 96-99 of 11/98. I needed 99 of 12/98. So it will be awhile before I can say if they helped or not. Thanks for the info on the Monroe shocks & struts. Truth be said they were my second choice anyways. Just was little cheaper, but had good reviews.

Keep in mind the struts that are offered for our truck are not totally ment for off roading, unless you go will ranchero or others that are built for it. That's why I went with Monroe's, they have lifetime replacement warrenty. I should pick mine up this afternoon & I'll let ya know.