thorpe991
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Posts posted by thorpe991
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on my battery the terminals are slightly bigger at the bottom and if its not down on the bottom it wont make a good connection resulting in it not starting
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I guess that's my fault. I'll try not to make anymore posts.
your fine haha
Yeah, we get side tracked sometimes. I can delete that part if you wish...
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its fine haha well this morning i went to start it and it didnt start pulled the plug on the dizzy and sprayed that put it back in and it fired up so i guessing that was it for now im still going to spray the rest just to make sure
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even though it stinks terrible iv always been a fan of axe
well i didnt have this problem before i did the belt so not sure if i would have this problem if this fixes it
i like how we go from techie stuff to homemade flamethowers
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cool i always wondered what the wd stands for right now its almost white out so i will be spraying it tomarro if it stops snowing now which ones control spark? obviously the one that hooks to the dizzy and what else or should i just do all the ones i took off? and do i have to wait any amount of time before reconnecting the connections? if no do i have to wait to start it?
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did not know that haha looks like im going to autozone after work
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Sorry if I missed it, but just be careful of the backspacing of the rims to make sure they push the wheel out far enough from the strut to clear the 32" tire. 31's typically fit without issue (from my experience), but if you are planning on 32" equivalent tires I was afraid not to mention it.
i have 32s on mine with stock chevy rims im not sure of the backspacing but i had to ge t 1.5"spacers to put on to clear the struts
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well i took it to different shop than the first one i took it to and they ran a diagnostics and found that my knock sensor was bad (already knew that) i have good compression and i have spark and fuel i was telling them how it hesitates to start when its anywhere from 10-15 deg but will fire up right away when its above 15 and wont start at all below 10 deg they are thinking when i did the timing belt (did it under a makeshift tent type thing i might have got snow or water in one of the connectors and its freezing and that's all they can think of as if my timing was off it would hesitate no matter the temp or just not start at all so im getting a hair dryer and going threw the connections i unhooked to do the change
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ok so today it got down to -15 with the wind bringing it down to about -25 -30 ish and i went to start the pathfinder and didnt get anything but cranking of the starter and the motor anybody have any idea whats going on yesterday and Monday it started fine ran great and but those days it was any wheres between -5 to +10 when i went to start it
before my belt broke the coldest it was out and i started it was -10 and it kinda hesitated to start then so
i had the timing checked with a timing light and it was dead on i have not had the compression checked yet
what should i start checking when i get home from work?
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if you want to take this down your welcome to thanks for the help guys
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Cool, that is really good news! You shouldn't have needed to adjust the dizzy though, how much did you move it?
i didnt move it at all the shop that i was talking to before i did it said if i was off a tooth or half a tooth the distributor would adjust its self so when it smoothed out i figured it was that
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well i have to get a fan shroud tomorrow as i broke mine trying to get it around the steering
so i will be driving it tomarro and it will start the babying of the pathfinder 
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Not true, quite a few people have gotten lucky but more have had some damage.
I would just replace the belt and do a compression check. If you have damage, I would put the other motor in as Kingman suggested and part out the rest, then fix the damaged motor and sell it. You could come out of the whole thing not costing you anything but time.
To everyone else, learn this lesson the easy way. If you do not know if/when the TB has been changed on your vehicle, change it right away. It is not worth the gamble!
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wish i new this haha would of saved me some worry
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well around me for a motor not from a jy im looking at a grand with out wiring or ecu and im looking at a complete pathfinder for a grand so the complete pathy makes more sense i would get money back from it as junk or part out buttttt i finished my tb change about 30-45 mins ago and it fired up and ran ...... good no lights on in the dash no knocking it ran ruff for about 1min then smoothed im guessing my timing was off by a tooth or half a tooth but the distributor adjusted and fixed that
i let it run for about 10-15 mins and nothing changed no new lights nothing so im guessing i got extremely lucky
before for i had the pathfinder i had a 93 gmc truck and when we would work on that my dad would call it jap crap (cause none of the bolts were the same size or stupid stuff like that) well i actually get a Japanese vehicle and its super easy to work on 
so where would i go to get the compression checked?
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so I just got the pathy to my house and am tarring down the front end Im hoping that I got lucky as the day fter I posted that pathfinder disappeared of CL the interior and exterior where ruff so I wasent looking to part it out
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so Wednesday my timing belt broke as i was on my way to work so heres some ?s and some specifics on the pathy
Mileage: 171xxx bought with 169xxx
transmission: auto
speed when broke: 45mph
temp outside: around 30f
?s
1. i was told that i most likely put a rod threw the head when the belt broke is that possible?
2. is there a safety switch or something that would put the pathy in neutral ?
3.should i try and replace the belt or should i get a new motor?
so when it happen i just stalled i had no noise or anything when i went to put it in neutral wile i was rolling to restart it with out stopping it was already in neutral and i started to hit reverse(i should of been in drive) and i could here the gears grind or what ever it is in a auto
i found a 1998 pathfinder that has a good motor with 145xxx miles on it but the body is shot and the ad said that the frame is rough for $1000 i was thinking i could get him down to $700 and just use the motor then junk the rest and get $200-$300 bucks back so it would end up costing me $500-$400 bucks is this a good plan?
i know the main things to look for ie. burring/leaking oil, burring antifreeze, and stuff like that
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Yeah I am. Reason I said 2" is because from what I read that's the max of what the CV can take and still work right.
Really what I'm looking for right now is enough lift to put 31s maybe 32s on without it looking funny, & no serious rub.
The back right now I think would look alright with them right now, so might try the 1-1/2" first.
i have 32" tires and 1.5 in the front and only rub at full crank but with a little molding with a heat gun
i wouldent rub when i had my 31"tires with the 1.5 i didnt rub at alll
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What I was suggesting is to Frankenstein a q45's hid housing in, the part of the headlight with the projector beam only. Certain generations had them I believe, or a j30 could be a good candidate too. You'd have to buy an hid conversion kit, but it would be a hell of a lot brighter than just a bulb upgrade.
so like take the glass lens off the pathfinder housing and put a projector in it?
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i put 1.5 spacers in the front of mine and im sitting about level my front is about 1/4" higher than the rear so u might need 1/2" maybe i would do the front lift then measure before you go making things up if you search on here for front spacers i think one of the people said 1.5 is the most you can space the front because of the cv shaft angle (im guessing your talking about strut spacers) hope this helps
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i was just looking at the 1999 ford f150 and they might work to so im going to try those to here are some aftermarket ones from summit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/grm-09-1134-1lb/overview/year/1999/make/ford/model/f-150
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/grm-09-1155/overview/year/1999/make/ford/model/f-150
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/grm-09-1149/overview/year/1999/make/ford/model/f-150
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I think you'd have better luck retrofitting a projector housing out of something else, and hopefully get hids along with it. I'm thinking a q45 or BMW. May need a clear lens, but the cutoff should be appropriate.
is this what you mean by a q45? and i think the lenses wouldn't be tall enuff to fit
a 9004 and 9007 are slightly differently. The way the filaments are set and the lock tabs are placed in the opposite position. Basically you can't easily make a 9007 fit in a 9004 housing. And the beam would be all jacked up from oppositely set filaments.
What I recommend, and it's only slightly less ugly than Exploder lights, is to swap out your headlight buckets for the similar body style pickup headlight buckets. This allows you to run any type of H4 replacement housing that fits in the american standard sealed beam. Which I believe there are some after market projector lights in the 7x6 size.
Here is a picture of my truck with ebay hardbody grill and aftermarket H4 headlights, not projectors.
What you need is the grill and headlight buckets from a Hardbody pickup, you can see the Pathfinder corner markers, but Hardbody ones "fit" the grill better as it's of a slightly different design.
im not talking about putting 9007 bulbs in my housing im talking about taking a explorer housing and putting that in my pathfinder the explorer housing uses a 9007 bulb
so tomarro i head to the jy to tray and Frankenstein a pathfinder in the yard with a explorer headlight ill take pics as i go haha so ill be spending like 2-3 hrs in the yrd
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The same could be said for any dual filament headlight bulb.
well i was just getting at that the way they hook to the lens and how they plug in is the same so
Could work if you don't mind the fugly factor.
well there are other ones on there those are just the ones i liked and if it does work its alot cheaper than getting jdms imported and having to put the updated front end on
this weekend its suposed to warm up to 37-40 deg here in ny so i plan on going to the local jy and tearing one out of a explorer and seeing if it will fit in one of the pathfinders that is in there
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If you look up the 9007 and the 9004 they have the same end : http://betterautomotivelighting.com/2012/08/13/difference-between-9004-and-9007-bulbs/ but in that it shoes the prongs mean different things so by switching pins it would be easy
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so i want to put in hid lightsbut want the projector head lights lens and nobody sells them and jdm ones are impossible to find i was looking at a 96 or something ford explorer that i was parked net to at Walmart and they look the same but the explored is plastic and is split into different sections and the corner lamp is hooked to the headlight instead of separate.
has anybody tried to fit them into the pathfinder ?
summitracing.com has projectors for the explorer for $312.97 ( http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ann-111132/overview/year/1997/make/ford/model/explorer) or just after market ones for $149.97( http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ann-111039/overview/year/1997/make/ford/model/explorer )
i will be more than willing to go to my local jy and pic one up of the stock ones to try it if no hasn't yet
maybe you could just remove the lens from the mount and hook it to the pathfinder mount (just brainstorming if the mounts are different) i know that the wiring would have to be spliced into to fit the ford lights but they use a 9007 and the pathfinder uses 9004 and they have the same plug so mabey not
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if your still in ny i would look at pa if you close to the boarder as most of the pathfinders in ny are ether over priced or rotted out i got mine from pa and is has no rust other than in the chrome and i paid 2800
whats the final word on new headlights?
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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im running the zxe Sylvania's and they are much brighter than any I have tried but over priced if you got them off ebay for like 30- 40 bucks it would be a good deal