Jump to content

Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST

93pathyfiend

Members
  • Posts

    35
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 93pathyfiend

  1. Thanks Slartibartfast, I've been chasing current every which way... As far as I can tell there's power every where but the starter won't engage. Even when I tried using a screwdriver to connect the points. Maybe I'm just testing the wrong things. I'll look into the key switch. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  2. Does anybody know where to locate the diode that is in the neutral safety circuit of the 4x4 wd21? My pathy still won't start and I have replaced all the relays and tested the starter 3 times. I'm not getting anything other than a click when I switch the key to start. I'm losing it Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  3. I have a the exact same problem, ran and started fine then it stopped. I have replaced almost every relay on the ignition circuit ( starter, clutch neutral, check relay) still no power to the solenoid wire. Any body have a clue on why this might happen? 93 pathfinder se M/T Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. 93 xe 2816xx on the body, 175.0 on the engine!! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  5. Looks like the bottom of your oil pump that the lower timing cover bolts to. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  6. I am talking about the red cord... It sounds like the belt is rubbing on something but only periodically. I'm contemplating leaving it in because it might just need to break in... I just don't want to compromise the belt and bend a valve. This is my first rebuild so I may just be being over cautious... And again by the twist method my belt will not go 90 degrees between the cam gears, this means it's too tight correct? Could this have caused the belt to walk forward? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  7. I hate iPad sometimes..., anyway, by your method of checking the tension it's too tight. I am going to pull the bottom cover this weekend and replace the belt, should I replace the tensioner also? The one I put in is brand new, could it have been damaged by the belt being too tight? And thanks Nefarious, you've been a great help answering a few of my questions... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  8. By yor Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. Also if the crank pulley bolt is OVER torqued could that be pushing in on the timing cover? And it's both sides of the belt, maybe worse on the block side... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. I just installed all new timing (square tooth) belt and tensioner while rebuilding my vg30e. I've only put 20 miles on this motor and my timing belt looks like this: Could this be from being too tight (or too loose)? I know I'm going to have to replace the belt already... But I don't want to do it more than once. Also it looks like on the drivers side cam sprocket the belt has moved forward... Could this cause the washers beside the crank gear to contact the belt? Could I push it back and try it? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  11. My a/c is currently not installed( no belt or tensioner) I'm thinking it's either the lower timing gear, or the oil pump. I am going to pull the timing cover and check the belt, it sounds like it may be coming into contact with something... Also there are two ground straps( one on each side of the motor) that were originally attached to the exhaust manifolds but now that I have headers are just sitting there. Could this be causing an arc somewhere. It's not quite the same sound but similar. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  12. I rebuilt the motor in my 93 ex and after finishing the exhaust (was open headers) realized that there is a ticking/scraping at the crank pulley and it could be the water pump... I'm just wondering are you supposed to fill the coolant a special way to ensure your water pump works properly? I just got this truck together again and need to make sure it is sound. Is it possible for the thin metal plates behind the lower timing cover to be making noise? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  13. I installed obx headers and have a magnaflow cat all lined up, for now I am just going to have y-pipe made so I can attach my old exhaust and drive the pathy again ( it's been parked for 5 months). I will be ordering new cat and muffler and finishing the rest soon, thanks for all of your advice guys... I didn't know enough about what the cat does( besides absorbing carbon emissions somehow) to make a good decision. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  14. New exhaust wondering if I don't have to pass emissions should I put a new catalytic back on? If I don't put one on what, if anything, do I need to change? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  15. Thanks for the links, I ordered from summit and had to send it back. They sent me a kit for Chevy v8, had to send it back for the right one. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  16. Searched for several times in different manners, ie oil filter relocation and remote filter and even the burnt starter threads... Still can't find what I was reading earlier. As for the wrap, I just rebuilt it and would've hated to watch it burn... So for 35 bucks why not. In retrospect I could've asked first! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  17. Sweet I hate that wrap crap! I'll pull that off and drive it like mad! Thanks for the reassurance guys, and the oil relocation kit is next on my list... Any recommendations or specs to share would be appreciated! Thanks again Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  18. It stopped raining for a sec so here are some pics Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  19. Just reinstalled my rebuilt vg30 with a set of obx headers. I heat wrapped the headers but am still worried about the fuel feed and return lines on the passenger side. My question is should I just go ahead and relocate these lines and possibly the filter or am I just being paranoid? My poor pathy has been sitting for months and is so close to rallying again... I just don't want it to burn to the ground. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  20. Thanks that's what I figured, I'd just hate to screw this up after rebuilding the motor Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  21. Sorry, the motor is a vg30e out of a 93 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  22. Ok so pretty self explainatory... Doing rebuild and so far so good, of course I'm reassembling and notice that I'm an idiot and unbolted my pulleys from the crank damper without marking them. So my question is when the motor is at TDC, based on crank and cams, which of the 7 marks on the pulley should line up with the timing cover? The only reference I have is the Haynes and it only shows the ka24 marks in detail, are they the same? Any help would be great,I miss my pathy something fierce Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  23. Zcar.com will have a wealth of info, big Phil has all the specs for rb26det/tt and rb30det specs... Worth looking at Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  24. I'm not sure about your area but I know that there are downloadable patches for showing forest service roads on digital maps ( at least for gps) also I tend to use the unreliable google earth... But hey if you're lost anything is better than nothing... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  25. There is also a load sensing valve in the brakes that keeps your back tires locking up during high speed braking( like we are locking up at 80 in our trucks) it's a weird valve that if you replaced with a T would probably trash your braking power... I believe the repair manuals have a brake bleeding order that you use ie: rear, load sending valve, front... Or something similar

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×
×
  • Create New...