txpath4x4
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Posts posted by txpath4x4
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Ride through the country, cause this is where i live LOL 6 acres and nothing around me!!
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Bro this game looks sick!! once i get my PC upgraded a little i am definitely getting this
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no checking the timing with a light is to determine that you are firing at the correct time, and on the right cylinder. i had this same problem on my '84 GMC small block... had to replace the distributor on that one. im with Alkorahil definitely sounds distributor related.
an easy way to tell on the crank if you are firing at the right time (at least how i do it) paint the slash that you need only and point the light on the crank
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Happy fathers day to all the Dads out there in Pathfinder Land
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well i lowered my T bars a little bit and evened them out, driver side was maxed out. now i have some travel before the CA bump stop. but i don't know what the PO originally had on the truck. cause i have no rubbing when turning the wheel.. oh well. i just know i want to go a little higher to get some clearance under me. either BJ spacers and coil spacers from Fleurys when they are available... or if Beastpath gets back to me on his for sale stuff...either way i am on a mission
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hey my peeps, this is my first instructional so forgive me in advance
like it says i lowered my rear axle on the 94 today and don't remember an illustrated version so for all to see my shade tree mechanics at work!!
step 1
jack up the truck at the rear chunk as this will lift the rear somewhat even and support with jacks. Here is the best location i found:
it is just past the Lower Trailing Arms frame mount
Step 2
Take off wheels, then undo Shocks and track bar ( it is the bar that goes diagonal across the back) the shocks use a 17 MM and the track bar uses a 20 MM.
Step 3
as the picture shows lower the rear axle till the Trailing arms bottom out but watch your rubber brake line as not to damage it
from this point the springs can be removed with ease with a little prying, when i did it i was able to push up and pull out, no compressors needed
here is picture from the driver side without the axle bump
step 4
use a wire wheel or brush to clean the area or dirt and grime
ok for us SAE people i used a 17/32 drill bit and a 5/8-11 tap set
step 5 install axle stops, there is an F with a directional arrow for front
ok if you are installing new shocks and spring this is where you would install them. and just reverse the process. IMPORTANT NOTE. Install the bottom shock mounts first for 2 reasons A) the track bar blocks them B ) it helps locate the axle for the track bar.
jack up the axle install wheels and make sure everything is tight
Have Fun!!
Jason
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yeah it is a shame there isn't that many of us in Texas hell i think we are the only 2 that are active on the coast... Yep unless its a big truck on 44's or a jeep lifted to the sky...no Love for the Pathy
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So I have had a Nissan in the family since I was like 8: 89 stanza wagon, 94 sentra, 2 early 90's quest etc. I always new you could lock all doors from driver side but just now I figured out how to unlock all doors... Holy crap just turn the key twice
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Yeah the only thing better I could say is if it happened in the parking lot as he was getting into it
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That would be great nunya, yeah I have a local machine ago that is gonna take care of the heads and to relieve to problem they Are purchasing the headers. They didn't even blink when I told them how much parts are... I have a policy, do it right or not at all... No piece-mealing or cutting corners. I like repeat customers but not when it's the same problem
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You know you drive a pathfinder when you have to disassemble the front of the motor to just change a coolant bypass hose
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Country and metal and rock. Fav bands are Metallica and Rise Against. But I was raised on classics like James Brown and temptations
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So I'm a decent wrench monkey, I do it on the side for play money, but I digress
My masonic brother has a 93 HILUX 4x4 that supposedly needs a new head gasket and I may post some photos on this thread just so us Nissan people can see what the tonka toys look like inside. Here is one to start a side x side of motors ... Definitely similar
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They were insured and it just messed up the little chrome piece on the bumper and she is just a little sore from tensing up
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In our area we really don't air down, crawling/ mountain trails don't exist lol. we have Gumbo for mud... Which for people who don't live here means ancient seabed.
yes the Pictures were pre-torsion bar tightening. i had to re index 3 notches and tighten the heck out of the bolts to get what i have now. the PO drove this thing to the ground... every steering part has been replaced except the IA. the only thing i haven't touched on the Chassis/suspension as far as replacement is the TA's and the strut rod bushings, and CA bushings... those are next once Summer Cruise is over. (The boss lady said if it drives leave it alone till afterwards)...
i would like to be as economic as possible on my lift. I would ideally like Aftermarket CA's, but considering i need a new clutch, and UJ's plus i want headers, exhaust, filter relocation. etc... Ball joint spacers seemed the next thing in line
on that note, you guys n' gals have some serious rigs on here, and i love seeing them... and it seems there are a lot more available donors out there in yall's area. here in Texas unless i feel like driving for 8 hours 1 way i cant even find one that would be donor applicable. (meaning cheap)
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Just as the title says... Bought the thing Saturday, Tuesday it caught a rock from a dump truck on the windshield , and she just called me, someone Rear ended her; mother f.....
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I found a few pics
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Oh and mine came wth the smaller tires on chromies
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I have 31x10.5r 15... And they don't stick out really, the rims were the right price $free90free. And the only rubbing they do is on the rear when I go at an angle, but I also don't have bump stops. I'll make a video this weekend and let me know what y'all think, as for the ball joint spacer question, any remarks?
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Ah ok yeah my rims are 15x12 the back spacing is perfect I guess just the outer is what is causing it to rub, guess once I lift the rear a little bit more I won't have that issue, also regarding Ball joint spacers, 1/2" would be fine for a poor mans lift right? Or should I go bigger, I know there is a thread on here all about spacers but I couldn't find it
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Hey all you Pathy lovin' fools out there,
Me and Greg were talking one day about factory suspensions. Biggest question was there a difference between the models that came with 31's and the smaller tires as far as the suspensions went. Cause when I put the 31's on my XE they rubbed everywhere and I had to crank my tbars up and get the JGC springs... ( also waiting for a certain coil spring spacer to become available). Even after I did all that they still rub when I flex and I had to take my factory mudflaps off...
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I had the same issue, I cut the bottoms out of the spacers and just used some 6.5" round speakers, cause the 5x7's would not fit no matter what. On the rear they "fit" but I had to put new screw holes in it and of course the covers wouldn't fit over them but they all workAll four of my factory 5x7 speakers were toast due to age. I purchased new 5x7s, but so far, they won't fit in the front spacers without some router work on the spacers. Haven't had time to try to fit the rear ones yet.
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Thanks!!
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It's got the 3.5, and this is off 290 and beltway. Thanks yeah it is a far cry from the '94 as far as room goes
Pathy or Pathfinder?
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
When I was introduced to cars at the ripe age of 4 I was told all cars are girls and to name them appropriately. My 04 Ram is Bonnie cause she will rob you blind( 12 mpg) and she's a killer. Juliet is the pathfinder cause our story is one of constant tragedy, and there are few others
That's JP
And I have my 84 GMC which is Blue, cause she is light blue