PrecisionX
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Posts posted by PrecisionX
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4x4parts.com automotive customizers lift. It is what I run, the strut top out issue is way overblown.
Is that the AC 2" lift? I only have 245/75/16s though and they're brand new. I've heard this kit is a B to install and requires a lot of "oops my trucks is already in pieces but I need this whatever that isn't included"
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So guess what guys? Apparently Old Man Emu is no longer selling kits for the R50. They are only selling 2005+ what the hell am I supposed to do now for a lift lol
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Whoa... So what's your recommendation for recovery considering I don't have a Reese hitch anymore and don't care to do any major fab work?
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Slight misunderstanding there. Definitely don't use the tow ball as a recovery point, but using the trailer hitch receiver as a recovery point is better than nothing (and there's nothing there without it).
The OP's reason for removing it is a valid one. But I'm with NovaPath about having it vs. not having it.
Unfortunately I've already given away the hitch but I still think I made the right choice on that one considering I live in Massachusetts, the rear end crash capital of the world (that's probably not a fact) but the amounts of dick heads on the road here is a stunning number.
So does this Fleury front skid just bolt in? I checked out some of the slider options including the super slider but it looks like the basic set would work the best if anyone has experience with them. I basically want to toughen up a daily driver R50 without doing anything too wild. I probably won't do lockers but I do want to help keep this thing from getting F'd up if I did get into a mess.
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I'm a DIYer but I'm in the middle of a New England winter with no garage so as far as the OME install is concerned I'd have a shop do it which I'm not sure how much that will run me or if I'd be better off just getting OME springs and separate struts vs the strut/spring package.
The only skids I know of came in a $500 kit. Someone on expedition portal did it but as far as sliders and skids I really don't know where to start. I'm not getting into anything super serious but I also want to cover my tail. I took off my Reese hitch without any problem (didn't want to get rear end fender bendered ending up with a bent frame like my XJ that had a Reese hitch on it) My running boards came off easy too. I'd like lights but there doesn't seem to be many easy options for those without drilling and I don't even know where to begin with electronics, not my forte one bit haha
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I get that, I'm not looking for someone to tell me everything to do I'm just looking for advice. For as many things as there are out there for info there are things that are not. Some people find things necessary and others don't so I'm just looking for opinions
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I've already gotten the tires taken care of and was thinking about mating an OME kit with struts. I know they're not 32s but I needed tires before I could swing the lift. What kind of under protection have people been going with?
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What you should do next is fix the above mentioned problems. Continue reading this forum and other 4x4 sites to find out what YOU think you should have with you. Those requirements will vary from between regions. Are you talking about mechanical stranded or stranded off road (stuck) or what?
Sent from my Pathfinder
Those issues are getting fixed. I'm talking about off road stranded and mechanical stranded. Rescue stuff, straps, hooks, jack recommendations... Those things. What I can do to this that's going to keep me very off road capable without going overboard and making this thing miserable to drive on the street.
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Cliff notes: 2001 Texas Nissan Pathfinder SE w/LSD 127,000 miles.
Know issues:
-stripped wheel stud in front driver side hub
-coolant hose needs to be replaced due to a tiny crack at the end of the hose
-original suspension
-245/75/16 Toyo Open Country AT2
Oil change is up to date and the vehicle is generally in great shape and well taken care of. I intend to lift it and want a daily driver friendly but ready for camping/off roading/bad weather/whatever rig. Does the OME kit with springs/struts come as one unit like a coil over or did you have to pay double labor to have it installed because the springs are separate from the rest of the kit? Should I just get OME springs and Bilsteins? What about useful things to have in my truck at all times so I don't end up stranded?
Here's the Donkey
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I messed around with it a little bit when I got home from work. Initially I started cold and heard the hissing, it wasn't loud, more like the sound if you're blowing on hot food. I would drove around the block about 5 times and during that it went away, and then it'd come back temporarily, it gone entirely for about 2 miles of driving. What I DID notice is that after parked I would tap my brake pedal and get nothing, if parked I'd push my pedal in all the way it would come back as the brake pedal was coming back to its original position. It wasn't aggressive like a balloon or tire with a hole in it but I could hear it. If it is the booster or a vac leak how much time do I have before it's a this NEEDS to be taken care of?
The clicking in park I may have just never noticed before. This thing is a Texas truck, rust free with 126k on it. It looks like it was just detailed except it never has been detailed
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I get in my Pathfinder this morning only to find that when I apply my brakes and its in park I get a very prominent click from the shifter but once it's out of park it goes away and its only when I apply the brakes and its associated with an air hissing sound in the cabin that goes away when I apply the brake. Pulled out of the driveway and the hissing was there even in drive and again it went away once I applied the brake. What's up?
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So add coolant to the max level on the reservoir tank when cold and THEN burp the system? How can I go about burping the system? Or should I not drive it until I can burp it?
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Update and observation:
The Pathfinder was sitting in the valet garage at work all night. After checking the coolant reservoir and the radiator cap the coolant was an inch below the cap and below the "min" on the reservoir.
-the temp gauge went from cold to just below the middle level so I don't think it's the thermostat.
-the heat was blowing hot and when I adjusted it from all the way to the right to turning it down the temp in the cabin adjusted accordingly to a warm temp, I messed with the heat settings to see if it'd change temp and it did to the setting specs
-the full heat would cool off at idle, it was hottest when I was on the gas and it would retain that level of heat blowing until I was coasting
-temp gauge never got hot, just stayed in the middle the whole ride which was roughly 3 miles home
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Where do I download the FSM?
Also should I add coolant as a temp solution because I do not have the tools to burp the system right away?
Is it safe to drive while I diagnose the situation? I agree you're right about the whole leak situation
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I'm pretty sure that the HVAC I have is electronic. I've been watching the temp gauge and it starts cold and gets to normal temp fine. I have been leaking coolant but when I check under the radiator cap even cold it looks like it's where it needs to be. Maybe I'm low on coolant?
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The engine is getting to temp and the coolant is just little drips when parked but slowed down since it probably lost what was extra. I think the top off was done cold without compensation for when it expands. I can live without heat until it gets fixed but I can't deal with it if I'm causing harm to it by driving it and something catastrophic can happen.
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I have a super clean 01 Pathfinder with 126k on it. About a month ago once it got cold at night I'd wake u and start it with a brief few second belt screech and then it'd go away. I also noticed that when I turned the heat on I'd get a weird chirp sound from the dash but it was blowing hot. Driving today I noticed the heat was gone and it was just blowing cold air.
The coolant was topped off by the previous owner and leaked a little bit but I checked it cold the other day and it seemed to be an inch below the cap, full enough and I assumed it'd leak a bit due to overfill.
Is the heater core toast? Is the vehicle safe to drive until I can stash away the cash to fix it or should I park it when I get home until it's fixed? Really this is the only info I have and I'm mainly concerned with if it's safe to drive or if I'm putting it at risk for serious issues. I can deal with no heat until I get the money to fix it, I don't really know what I'm looking at for repair costs or possible issues.
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I might make a trip the JY this weekend for some other stuff. Want me to see what it costs? I doubt it'd be $800 to buy and ship it across the country. AZ = low/no rust.
May also want to talk to some of the guys in the For Sale section...I think there are some part-outs, though also in the E/NE areas so probably some rust.
Yea that'd be great. Let me know what you come up with
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I got an estimate over the phone from one place "ballpark $1,100.00" and a shop said $1800.00 after looking at it. The part being $800 ish. They said they'd install a used one but it'd have to be rust free so I'm just assuming new.
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It was hidden under the splash guard. No one under it without that removed would see it
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The alignment analysis after my tires showed that the toe was out of line not the camber. Since the alignment it drives fine and straight at any speed but before with the old tires I'd get steering wheel shake at 60 ish and it'd go away at 70. Like I said I couldn't tell at all before I went to change my oil.
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I found this damage when I did my first oil change on my recently purchased rust free Texas Pathfinder. It was hidden under the splash guard. It appears to be a subframe component. I didn't figure the guy who previously owned it would still be driving it if it wasn't safe or if it was serious as he is a recently retired F16 pilot with small kids but who knows. Can anyone give me an assessment of this? He said he slid into a snowbank 2 years ago and had to be winched out. There are no leaks and no other components damaged other than this. The front tires were super worn on the inside and had to be replaced so I got 4 new tires and after alignment I would never have noticed damage unless I saw it hence the post. What kind of parts and labor am I looking at?
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I was just hoping there would be a rack that has something similar to the undercarriage spare holder. The tire sits in the middle and there's a clamp or something that is in middle. Or are people just strapping them down?
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I was wondering if there was a roof rack that had a spare tire mount and or light mounts for my 2001
What should I do next?
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
I was considering getting a Fleury skid. My suspension original and I have 126k on struts/shocks/springs. I haven't tackled a suspension lift diy ever and don't really know what the hell im doing in regard to it or if I have the tools to take it on.