PrecisionX
-
Posts
154 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by PrecisionX
-
-
Fired it up and drove. 55 degrees. It’s happened before but didn’t seem to hang on this long. Oversized since I bought it 75,000 miles ago.
-
I actually do have oversized tires but not huge. 245/75/16s which is a 31.5 I believe.
-
Hi guys, kind of a freak out today. My 01 SE has 192,xxx on it and is very well maintained. On the highway at about 70mph my RPMs just kept climbing as I pressed the gas. I was accelerating as well but it seemed like the truck didn’t want to get into the next gear and it was holding at 4K and if I floored it to try and get it to change into the next gear the RPMs would climb as well as my speed. I’d take my foot off the gas and the RPMs would drop while maintaining speed. I turned around, drove home and shut it down. I started it back up and drove to my shop. The issue did NOT happen again. Any ideas? Really hoping my Tranny isn’t on its way out. If it was what would I be looking at for replacement cost? Or rebuild cost?
-
I drive my 2001 a lot. I have done a lot to it as well though. It’s a Texas truck that’s been in New England for about 7 years now. I’m wondering what I should expect to crap out next and what I should plan for or do for maintenance next.
Bought at 124,000
Currently at 189,000
Done:
New Tires
Drive belts
Rear drums cleaned and put back together
Front Pads/Rotors
Front and Rear Dif Serviced
Shocks/Struts at 135k?
Alternator
Sway bar links and bushings front and rear
Wheel bearings repacked
Ball Joints
Radiator Fan
Issues:
Passenger Rear door is stuck shut. The electronic lock works (lock and unlock) but the exterior door handle is a dead fish and the interior handle doesn’t work either. Not sure what to do here beyond taking the interior panel off which my mechanic said I’d have to destroy since the door can’t be opened to safely remove it
Muffler connection rusted so the muffler is hanging by the hangers and not connected to the rest of the exhaust. Might be a simple exhaust shop fix
CEL for P1104 I believe. Sensor replaced but the code came back.
Valve cover gasket leak *Minor*
Thats about it but I’d like to get 250k out of this thing. No significant rust other than minor surface on rear 3rd of the rocker on one side. Frame is CLEAN
-
I have a 2001 R50 Auto with 189,000 on it. I bought it with 124,000 on it. If I am running the vehicle and the AC is blasting I will park and turn it off only to find that it doesn’t want to start (but does) if I am not gone for very long. This happens also in the cold. I believe the starter is original, battery might be tired and alternator is new. Not really sure what the deal is.
-
Just got into a fender bender with my 2001 and the bumper cover is cracked all to hell and bumper is pushed in a bit. Wondering if I have any easy clean simple off road front bumper options.
-
I just replaced my idler pulley on the alternator/steering pump side and it eliminated a bad case of whine, big improvement. I thought it was the pump due to some play with the belt off, but figured I'd take off and test the pulley first since it was original and the cheapest path at $30. I tested it by spinning it with compressed air and it was loud. Very easy to change out too so I'd say try that.
I just noticed that it's coming from the engine bay. It's a dull constant whine that gets higher in pitch on acceleration and you can't hear it anymore. It's at idle or low rolling/mph speeds that you hear it but mostly at idle. Just hoping it's not anything major.
-
Also this is an 01 VQ35DE so no timing belt.
-
The drive belts were replaced, radiator fan was replaced. That's it. Starter and alternator are original I believe.
-
If it happens at idle then it probably isn't the LSD.
Take off your belts and check for bad bearings, my alternator bearing started to get really bad around 225K as well as the idler pulley bearings.
Does it get better as it warms up?
I listen more closely and it's coming from the engine bay.
-
I have a 2001 4x4 w LSD option. I just rolled 160k and would like some help with what to do next. I am hoping to keep this for a while and don't want to miss anything important. Here's what's been done lately since I bought I with 125k
-New tires
-Brakes are still feeling good but I do get a hiss in cold weather from the brake booster.
-Wheel bearings repacked
-Ball joints
-Shocks and struts (springs seem tired though)
-fuel pump
-drive belts
-radiator fan (cracking around the housing)
-LSD fluid (done at 130 or so)
Known problems:
Dash lights are quirky at night, sometimes the tach won't light up and sometimes the speedo.
Whining sound at idle? Drivetrain?
Check engine light P1140 code
Rear trailing arm bushings clunky
Small valve cover gasket leak
That's it off the top of my head. I want this thing to stay with me forever and rust hasn't been a problem. Texas truck from 01-11 and now it's in NH. Strut towers were inspected with a spray down and level 2 fix on the opposite side as precaution.
Thanks for the help!
-
I have a well maintained 01 with LSD and 160k on the clock. The diff fluid was swapped out at about 125k at a dealer and there is a tiny bit of leak fluid on the diff cover but no drips. Lately I've either noticed a whine from the truck, constant and dull but irritating enough that I noticed it and wondered if it was always there. Not sure what it's coming from and it doesn't get louder or more quiet at any particular speed. Road noise seems to drown it out but at idle I notice it. Is this normal? Serious or just an annoying thing that happens with time?
-
They can do a pressure test on the radiator cap or run it and do an air bubble check. Either way the leak has to be fixed for them to work.
I would say the overheating probably put you into some kind of limp mode and that was the revving issue.
It is probably not engine damage but overheating can do a lot of damage. I don't remember where the H is on my temp gauge I will look in morning.
The H is the top of the gauge. I was at a light on a hill and I turned green, when I went to go it didn't let me accelerate just like I would explain is a limp mode. Confused I tried to accelerate a couple more times and I looked at the gauge to see it on hot. I looked for the nearest place to pull over safe and a minute or so later I was parked, shut her off. No check engine light was on. The truck is getting towed to a shop for collision repair once the adjuster gives me an estimate and they will tear it down and see if they recommend it be repaired. I love this thing I just want it fixed and I'm praying it was not seriously damaged due to the accident causing the coolant loss.
-
Not much you can do until you find the leak and fix it. Then your going to have to refill and drive it to see if you have a blown head gasket.
The adjuster is coming in the next couple of days. It wasn't driven very far or long at that temp. No check engine lights popped, I'm hoping I'm safe but the collision center is going to need to check it out to make sure, not sure how they do that or if they even test for it?
-
I was in a fender bender that pushed my bumper in a solid inch and a half, what didn't seem to be a big deal turned into an unnoticed loss of coolant until I was driving and pressed the gas only for it to not go past 2500 or 3000 RPMs I think, unsure of what was going on I tried to accelerate a couple more times only to notice the temp gauge on H. I panicked pulled over into a parking lot as soon as I could put it in park and shut it down. I popped the hood and there wasn't any smoke or steam with coolant spilling out of the bottom of the truck. No doubt this was from the accident, no check engine lights popped and it hasn't been started since, just towed until the insurance appraiser can come out and assess the damage. What should I do?
-
I have a 2001 and have ordered the following, what else do I need to finish this thing? I will be doing the rear my self but driving over to a shop for the front.
KYB GR2 Shocks (rear)
KYB GR2 Struts (front)
Old Man Emu HD Springs up front
Old Man Emu Springs rear (didn't specify on MD)
(OME Leveling kit) which was "required" for 1.75 lift.
-
And today. No more license plate bracket and no more clear fogs.
-
I called pep boys and they gave me a ridiculous figure of $540 something to do struts/springs. Another shop said they'd put struts and springs on with alignment for $340.00.
-
Do I just order 2 of that part number or are the part numbers different for each side like the struts?
-
I just ordered two KYB GR2 struts for my 01 as I'm getting OME springs but I need shocks and figured I'd get Gr2 for the rear as well but I can't find the part number
-
I decided to do a little cosmetic work today. I have yellow Lamin-X fog light covers on the way and got my paint on today. Yay or nay?
-
That $650 figure was not counting the parts I would be supplying. So I'd be roughly paying $700 ish in parts and $650 for labor in this guys shop. I have all of those tools. I can't imagine the back being done first will be weird to drive to a shop to have the front done. Seems like that's what everyone else is doing. My truck is a Texas truck that only spent the last 4 years or so garaged in New England, my running boards came off super easy, the bolts were silver in color still.
-
Rear end is easy. I did the shocks, springs, and Fleury's 1.5 spacers in the rear in my gravel driveway (no cover). Drive up ramps, floor jack, jack stands and a craftsman socket set were used. I did the rear springs first - the shocks are simple. Later I did the spacers.
Front is a different story. If you are replacing the struts, do the springs at the same time. If you are like me, you use a shop as they have the tools and space. I provided the OME springs, and actually the KYB struts as Amazon was cheaper than his Napa source. Having them done at the same time saves labor if you plan to replace the springs down the line. Maybe all you need are the rear springs - your call. Make sure with the strut install you have the strut bearings also done, I had to go back for those. Also, camber bolts should be stocked by your mechanic, and he can do an alignment if necessary.
I was able to put small spacers in the front struts in my driveway, but for anything longer than 3/8, you will need longer strut bolts installed - so have it done at the shop with the strut install.
TLDR: have all the front stuff done at once, in the shop. You can do the rear stuff on your own.
So this is the set up I was thinking of running, let me know if I'm missing parts.
RockyRoad has an OME 1.75 HD kit for Feb 1999+ Models with OUT struts for $529 or WITH GR2 for $900 ish. I can get the KYB GR2 off amazon for $150 shipped (both) and get the kit bringing it to $700 ish.
I was quoted $650 for a shop to do the install front and rear OR I could tackle the rear myself and take it to the shop for the front? What random bits would I need other than a 100 piece socket/wrench set with a breaker bar, Jack stands and ramps? Should I even bother doing the rear myself only to drive 45 minutes to have the front done?
-
So I'm curious about the lift options I have. I'm running 245/75s that only have 3,000 miles on them and now I can't do OME lift because it's not available. That leaves me with AC 2 in I guess?
My concern is that I am still on OEM shocks/struts at 128k. Everyone is telling me that I need to replace those while the truck is getting the lift done to avoid spending double having them done at the same time.
So that leaves me with needing the lift kit, shocks and struts and to have it installed because I can't compress on my own, don't have a garage and or the space. I don't really even know where to buy this kit whichever one I decide on
2001 Transmission issue?
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Flushes are the devil. They can actually cause a good one to go bad but new fluid isn’t a bad thing so I might go that route.