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All sensors lead back to the ECU. I'm surprised you didn't throw a CEL with the CKP sensor unplugged. The third wire you mentioned is the pick-up wire that sends the timing signal back to the ECU. That fact that you are able to start it without the CKP sensor plugged, but fails to start when plugged doesn't make sense unless it was faulty to begin with.

So you didn't do anything to really fix the initial electrical problem. It just some how started working again? If this is the case, then the problem is not likely resolved and is probably an intermittent electrical failure. I'm starting to think that you have an intermittent open circuit probably due to a loose hot or ground wire, bad switch, or relay. Since you mentioned that none of your accessories would work unless the key was placed in the "On" position, that is were I would start troubleshooting. After reviewing the schematic for the power supply routing, it shows that power is provided to all of the listed accessories from the "On" position which explains what you experienced. However, the schematic also shows that there should be a direct connection to those accessories regardless of ignition position. The path of the circuit shows +12VDC > 120A fuse > 40A fuse > two 7.5A fuse. The first 7.5A fuse in the circuit feeds the following accessories: HORN, REMOTE, ASCD, KEYLESS, VEHSEC. The second 7.5A fuse feeds the following accessories: FLS1, FLS2, FLS3, MIL/DL, MAIN, BA/FTS, A/C, H/LAMP, CLOCK WINDOW, D/LOCK KEYLESS VEHSEC, NATS...etc. This sounds like most of the accessories that you were having problems with right? So I would start by checking all wire connections starting from the battery and working your way down to the accessories as well as checking the 40A and both 7.5A fuses. I would double check ALL fuses as well as test the new CS sensor to make sure it is good (could be poor quality or a return).

No codes? You mentioned a previous post - what was the problem to begin with and what did you do to resolve power back to your electronics?

Did this last weekend on a friend's R50. About a quarter of a quart came out.

Timing?

Id like to go, but it's my anniversary. I don't think I could convince my wife to spend our anniversary wheeling. Have fun and take pics.

Really? How's your knuckles healing??

When you own the LE model and Nissan was to cheap to add the door lock/unlock feature with the key ignition.

Get an SE-R. Much more enjoyable to drive.

A Huffy. Wasn't old enough to drive yet.

For my Pathfinder and older cars, whatever is on sale. For my newer cars, Mobile 1.

He must break down a lot in order to have to put lights in the wheel well. But then again, you did mention it was a Jeep

Impressive looking Titan.

As mentioned, all Pathfinders up to 2004 were built in Japan which means all factory parts are JDM. Replacement parts outside of Nissan OEM will likely be USDM, Mexico, or China.

There has been negative reviews regarding the KYB strut bearings. I just replaced mine last weekend with factory Nissan strut bearings. I rented spring compressors from Orielly auto parts as the one's I have didn't look beefy enough to compress the AC lift springs. If you are unsure of your mechanical ability, then as folks here has mentioned, get a shop manual and learn how to remove the strut assembly (not difficult to do). Then take the assembly to a repair/suspension shop to disassemble and reassemble with new parts. This would be your cheapest alternative.

No codes? Maybe a vacuum leak.

Okay... go to the home page of NPORA. Here's the link: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/ Look at the pictures of the Pathfinders on the home page. If your pathfinder looks like the the top two ("Truck of the Month" or "Truck of the Year"), then it is an R50 . If it is looks like the bottom two, then it is a WD21.

As Rebelord said, you'll find them if you search them under 1997 or later. With that said, here are the part# from Rock Auto: Dorman 905804 - right rear lower trailing arm Dorman 905803 - left rear lower trailing arm Dorman 905802 - upper trailing arm (fits both left or right side)

Are you sure its leaking from the head? There is a coolant crossover pipe in the back that connects between both heads. Mine leaked from the passenger side and caused coolant to leak down the back of the block and bell housing. Replacing the gasket fixed the leak, but it was difficult to get to the crossover pipe because of the limited access and close proximity to the firewall. Your back will not like you in the morning.

If you're not lifted, replace the axle. Changing the boots isn't difficult. You will need a jaw puller (I rented one from Auto zone) and c-clip pliers.

Not the passenger side. He stated it has -1 degree.

Changing the camber helped with the passenger side axle, but I did not want the additional outer tire wear while waiting for the axle to break-in/settle. So I ended up rebuilding the original axle and returning the new axle. The driver side has no issues with the new axle.

I had the same leak. It was running down the back of the motor and dripping from the bell housing. Turns out the passenger side gasket of the crossover pipe was the culprit. It was a PAIN IN THE A$$ to replace, but it is doable. You have to remove the intake plenum to gain access, but the location is so close to the firewall that it leaves little room to work with. I replaced both gaskets on the crossover pipe as well as the second thermostat that connects in the middle of the crossover pipe. Your back will not like you afterwards.

My guess is strut bearing.

I just installed two new CV axles today and had the same issue with binding on the passenger side. I ended up having to adjust my camber kit so that I have 1 degree of positive camber to resolve the binding issue. I think the new axles have tight tolerances and the lift is causing too much angle for the axles to handle. I'm hoping after a few thousand miles, they should break-in enough for me to adjust the camber back.