Cory74700

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Cory74700" data-cid="648522" data-time="1356544252"><p> Need a list of all the front suspension bushing names, ie. lower control arm bushing, strut/ panhard rod bushing etc... Any help is much appreciated and thanked for in advance. I'd prefer if it was in a 1,2,3,4 list but I'm not picky, thanks from all y'all ahead of time.</p></blockquote> Btw this is for an '88 pathfinder xe model V6 don't know if it matters but it's a 5-speed

Need a list of all the front suspension bushing names, ie. lower control arm bushing, strut/ panhard rod bushing etc... Any help is much appreciated and thanked for in advance. I'd prefer if it was in a 1,2,3,4 list but I'm not picky, thanks from all y'all ahead of time.

I never said money for fuel was an issue, I want a clean burning motor that stays clean, with 450,000+miles my cylinders still look as they did from the factory, no scouring whatsoever no up and down ring lines that are common, my valves have no sludge period no carbon build up anywhere on the motor, you wouldn't believe it from the look of the outside of the motor but the inside looks, sounds, and performs as it did in 1988 if not a little better with all my grounded wires to the block, and 108 octane is $4.76 usd per gallon, and I get ether free from the shop lead he's an NHRA and NHRDA racer and his sponsors want him running ether for a cleaner burn which in turn results in a longer lasting motor. Btw this whole build isn't permanent, I have a pal who duplicates the vg30 block out of aluminum and makes diesel motors rated at 1,900 lb-ft of torque and 700 hp and he's going to hook me up with a killer deal. Yes that's right a v-6 diesel nearing 2k of torque.

well as 5523Pathfinder said to do the same, ill give it a shot once the rain lets up here in a few days hopefully, i dont think it would make too much of an issue, but i think my torsion bars are a bit saggy too as my front end is substantially lower than the rear, maybe 2-3" lower, but its also my DD so i cant be stuck with one problem for more than a day or so, i mean the bushings and upper ball joints i can bust out in a day along with replacing the torsion bars, but that would then mean i need an allignment which i can roughly do in my driveway on another day, but other plans such as my carburetor issue i posted in another forum will take the majority of a weekend to fabricate the intake to accept a 2bbl carb. but it gives me some ideas, as i said, as soon as i can ill go out and take some pics of the undercarriage on the front end and post them. and yes Precise1, im in grass valley, its very peaceful up here and lots of places to go wheeling from rocky terrain, to the toughest of mud and sand pits i actually sunk the whole passenger side up to where that indent in the body is halfway up the door in quicksand a few weeks back that was also the day that my fully welded rear posy broke too. but upcoming ill jack her up and see if it does that when not under a load and then ill snap some high def pics for y'all and see if y'all can see something wrong that i don't other than my badly worn and cracked bushings.

ok ill take a look at that as well, thanks projekz, i mean it doesnt have to last long just long enough to get me through springtime when im doing my SAS then i wont have the issue again hopefully.

Ok I'll try that in the upcoming week or so, if the weather cooperates, its raining like hell here in California, if all else fails, I'll upload some high-def pictures to photobucket or something and post links here of most all of my front end, but I do believe the CV boots are torn slightly, I may have to pull those one at a time and thoroughly check them out, their balance, straightness, etc... once again thanks for the snappy responses, and Merry Christmas to you

To start off I did some more calculating and I actually get right now 38mpg, but don't know if your familiar with California or not, but I live 50 miles north from Sacramento, and to Petaluma down along the coast is an additional 83 miles, and I can go from my house to Petaluma and back on 1/4 tank of fuel thats roughly 133 miles each way so 266 round trip, my fuel tank is 20 us gal. The first quarter is 7 us gal. the remaining is 3.25 us gal, don't ask how that works thats just what the capacity test showed, but I started off when I first got the Pathfinder by replacing all the spark plugs except the furthest back on the driver side, (if you've tried to replace the plugs on a vg30i you'll know why I didn't replace that one), then I got a K&N free flowing air filter, then replaced the fuel filter with two filters piggybacked to ensure my 108 octane mixed with ether was as pure as possible, replaced the injectors with Bosch low flow injectors, (which was a bad idea since 108 mixed with ether is on the thicker side requiring me to clean them thoroughly) but the mixture I run burns hotter and slower meaning I don't require as much fuel in the chambers to ignite and send the piston the opposite direction. Because of that I then had to modify the ECU to tell the fuel pump not to flow so much through the lines. Also to accommodate for the hotter slower burn, which makes a better explosion, (I'm at 2,700ft elevation) I use 25W-50 Royal Purple Synthetic Motor oil. Also I'm not sure if it made a difference to fuel economy, it sure as hell made a power difference, but I ran almost all my ground wires to my engine block. That pretty much sums up my fuel efficiency tactics. If you don't want to believe that any of its true, then don't, but when you top 470,000+ original build miles and want more fuel efficiency you'll start to tinker too, I come from a family of mechanics that go all the way back to working on the 1908 Ford model T and model S cars through to this day. Merry Christmas to you as well.

All bearings looked new, no excessive wheel play while driving, nor does it have anymore than 0.02 of play, upper, lower or side to side, but I did notice that my cv shaft boots were about due to be replaced along with all the other bushings on the front, I just replaced the lower ball joints and noticed that my wheels sit a little out as if you were to look at the front the camber is noticeably off so the tires are like this...\-/ but obviously not that excessive I believe negative camber, maybe I'm due for upper ball joints as well.. Thank you for such a quick response oh by the way I just changed my diff fluid front and rear along with the t-case and transmission with some fresh 75w-90 gear oil so I doubt that's the issue, ill wait for some more responses from others before I start throwing a bunch of money into random parts that Id be taking a guess as to whether its gonna fix it or not...

Well mine is an '88 I'm the second owner of it I've had it for just over a year, traded a '92 ford ranger for it In that year believe it or not I've put about 230,000 miles on it, I got her with 220,324 miles on. Now she sits at 450,702, fires right up, and no rust whatsoever on the frame, or under the rear seat, only at its three handles. Miraculously I got it tested for fuel efficiency and cruising at 3,100rpms doing 70 in 5th, or overdrive gear, it's a 5-speed, I get 28-31 mpg it still has the original build only had to do minor repairs, and it still has the original furthest back driver side spark plug, gonna pull those all and replace someday when I'm free, but the BEST DAMN VEHICLE I'VE EVER HAD!!

Everytime I lock in my front hubs on my 88 pathfinder, wether 4H or 4L or neutral, I hear this weird humming noise tied to some strong vibrations from my front end it's only when the hubs are locked, I mean I do some serious offroad ing and can't tell when I'm crawling or jumping and whatnot but it's still there and especially noticeable when I go from one trail, jump on the asphalt for a couple hundred yards to the next trail that I notice it. Anyone have a clue what my issue may be?? I removed the Hun assembly all the way down to the cv shafts and nothing was out of the ordinary except the lack of any sort of grease so I lubed them up and reassembled and still have the same issue, any help is much appreciated and thanked for in advance

Ok thank you both for such a quick response, ill get right on with emailing them and furthering my research, my whole intent for this is that I only see two forms of an intake, efi or a carb, tbi is just an effed up carb. efi guarantees no power increase but a carb is proven to even if it lowers my current 30mpg+ by 5-7mpg that's no big deal, I have an outstanding ability to be able to tune engines for better than optimal mpg.

I love the idea of a 350 but for mine I was leaning towards maybe a 290 ford or a 324 Chevy, a bit smaller but both have the potential to pump just as much power without compensating for fuel loss, btw I love the monster can in the right of the picture there =p

I am looking to swap out my TBI for a Carburetor, anyone have any advice as to which 2bbl carb from Redline Weber would work, but especially I need info on intake manifold modifications, wiring, rerouting lines/ hoses etc... Any help is much appreciated and thanked for in advance.