Cory74700

I don't trust the tire companies too well so I burn a bit of rubber and then go get them balanced, kinda just a personal issue and yes I've burnt up tires on the trail before too but never a front tire, only right before I got my welded posy, nice rig man is that an 89??

Actron 9135

Ok ill look into that later today thanks for the tip man

I need the bolt measurements how far apart are they spaced??

So i decided to do the video tonight, and it came up 5 red flashes, 5 green flashes, i let it cycle through twice to see if it changed or not. im still puzzled though, ill do a video tomorrow while driving, don't worry ill do it in an empty parking lot to ensure i don't endanger other drivers while driving with my phone in my hand to record the video, and ill do it a few times to make sure i get a good sound quality for you guys, the sound on this video sucked unless your volume is up high. but heres the ECU go at it. came up with no malfunctions.

Well I was in quite a bind today trying to get some new tires and didn't have time to get home and check through the ecu with the flashing lights so ill have to do it tomorrow, then if I get the o2 sensor One ill try to tighten up my exhaust around the exit of my catalytic converter and then do it again and see if they still do the same, if I can ill try and get a video because all this blinking light stuff is new to me and maybe one of you guys can decipher it for me instead of me scratching my head on it. just a double check the red should flash first then green right?? Thank you to everyone who has added their input to help me out so far, and happy New years, ill be talking to you all in the 2013 year.

I used a portable obd2 scanner with an attachment for obd1 with programming that's supposedly able to go back to 1975 year cars and newer, I'm not sure how to get the codes using the lights if you explained it I can try that one tomorrow afternoon and post back with results.

So I ran the codes again this afternoon and wrote them down this time, and I get the two codes P0136 and P0141

Oh I was just basing it on the fact that come springtime I'm doing a SAS anyway so they don't need to last too long either that or I was considering a full independent suspension but that'd be white the tricky setup I still have some time to think it out

Tungsten I do know that I have an exhaust leak as I can hear my valves ticking loudly at high tons and I was underneath it today and I could jiggle my muffler away from the cat about 1/4 inch I think I can just tighten my u-bolt to fix that though but I believe my o2 sensor is working because I passed smog with flying colors earlier this year and the problem has existed since I git it

Thanks nunya ill check that out tomorrow and see if it helps me out

Sorry here's the back I double posted the roof on accident http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/cory9999/IMAG0012.jpg

Here in the wonderful grass valley we found a nice mudhole down melody and played, sorry I couldn't get any videos just the after effectS I was surprised the back was the only part that didn't get covered http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/cory9999/IMAG0014.jpg http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/cory9999/IMAG0013.jpg http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/cory9999/IMAG0014.jpg http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/cory9999/IMAG0004.jpg http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/cory9999/IMAG0005-1.jpg

No I'm not throwing any codes either that or my obt1 scanner isn't registering them but would my idea of switching to a carb help at all??

So I took a peek under my pathfinder today and those sway bar links are the front that attach the sway bar to the lower control arm and they're perfect size I did measurements and all to match it, I also replaced a bad sway bar link in the rear today took about 30 mins total from cutting to replacment with the new one and here's a couple pics of cuts and new <a href=http://s699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/cory9999/?action=view&current=IMAG0010.jpg target=_blank><img src=http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/cory9999/IMAG0010.jpg border=0 alt=></a> <a href=http://s699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/cory9999/?action=view&current=IMAG0011.jpg target=_blank><img src=http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/cory9999/IMAG0011.jpg border=0 alt=></a>

As odd as it sounds I keep a spare of every belt, gaskets, a spare oil pan (if for some reason I get hung up on something and jerk it around and rip a hole in my oil pan) more than enough oil, coolant, clutch fluid, brake fluid, power steering fluid, all my tools including jacks, jack stands, 20' 12-ton tow strap, fix a flat, replacement trail lights, carb cleaner, all filters. The list goes on, I have about 600lbs of equipment kept in my pathfinder at all times wether I'm wheeling or driving to the store, you never know when something will go wrong and I'm prepared to fix it.

Well just my little bit of input, I got my pathfinder November 2011 knowing I do a lot of 4x4ing I welded the spider gears, to give a 100% full locked up rear end, it worked more than great except when turning sharp while going slow on Tarmac the rear tires chirp. After the 200,xxx miles I've put on it, needless to say the weld has since broken around 75,000 miles that I put on it and since then I haven't really 4x4ed much just the occasional trails and hill climbs, I did notice a giant difference between stock and welded posy, but after knowing how to wheel without the posy I don't think I wanna go back just yet.

So I want to crank up my torsion bars , and I'm sure that's not only gonna jack up my toe angle but I'm not sure if its gonna have an effect with my camber angle, I already have a bit too much positive camber which I can adjust myself but if it's too excessive what would be a good plan of recovery from this??

Hmm well I guess I'll give them all a shot, I'm sure summit offers some sort of a warranty or I can contact the manufacturer directly, got nothing to lose. Thank you for the input.

To be specific I need the measurements for where the throttle body sits, I don't want to take off the throttle body to measure as of yet, I'd prefer if someone is possibly rebuilding one of these motors and has the intake off to measure lengthwise and widthwise I'm not worried about the offset of the two sets of holes just need a measurement like for example (3" by 4"). I'm planning to custom fabricate an aluminum plate to sit on top of the intake for a carburetor swap. Any help is thanked for in advance.

So I found these on summit racing and the price is right, just want some input of the manufacturer as I've never heard of them. Thanks. if you need a bigger picture to see the names and info, I can do that as well.

I'm running an '88 pathfinder VG30i motor, when I take off, if I shift to second too soon when I'm getting on the gas pedal it bogs out like sputtering while super slowly upping the rpms till I hit 3,000 then I get a quick torquey jump of power, I mean I can just shift to the next gear at 3,500rpms, to 5,500rpms and this never happens, just around 1,500-2,000rpms, any clue as to what's going on?? I was told it had to do with my EGR valve but that seems senseless, would my plan to convert to a carburetor fix this issue?? But just need a main answer of what's happening and how do I stop it from happening?? Thanks for any help in advance.

I've checked out Sway-A-Way, and it wasn't too specific on wether the $205 was for the pair or individual, I'm hoping for the pair, because thats a pretty steep price for some steel bars ha, once again thanks for the help i really appreciate it.

This is exactly what I needed, thank you so much for such a quick response, my shock bushings are fine I just replaced them with Monroe nitrogen charged shocks along with my lower ball joints but the rest, along with my upper ball joints I need to replace same with my torsion bars so I'm guessing a good estimate would put me in the $300-$400 range to replace all that. Once again thank you for this info, the way you presented it was outstanding as well and I hope you had a great Christmas yesterday too. Cheers.