Cory74700

I'm not sure which brand it was but it said right on the page that they were meant for a d21 hardbody pickup which has dma different frame and crossmember and my bad it was the cross member not the frame that gets cut I would still enjoy making my own set of headers for dirt cheap and ceramic coating them myself and doing the whole deal for under $100 rather than paying in excess of $450-$500 for a pair from some company that can't even ceramic coat the inside. And I've seen Mr510 headers, the outlet has the same connector as stock making it less universal for a true dual exhaust which is what I'm aiming for, coming off the headers to twin CA legal cats to dual glasspacks and on out, I'm more into uniqueness rather than stock, I mean how many people have a true dual exhaust on a pathfinder, and not coming off a Y pipe?? Sounds like a challenge to me, especially the ability to make it work with the IRS ill be doing, I love a challenge, unlike Chevy headers, those are straightforward to make

I've been doing some research on the headers available for this motor through various companies, and I don't like the fact that it requires the cutting away from some of the frame to instal them. So I've come to the conclusion that I will be making my own set of bolt on headers specific to the vg30imotor in the pathfinder. I will then either be chroming them or ceramic coating them, does this sound like a good idea or bad?? I can get all the necessary pieces, I have plenty of welding experience, and ceramic coating is fairly simple as well. If I were to be able to successfully able to make these continuously would it be possible to have a short term market for them?? Thanks.

Alright, I apologize, I just got heated and I just hate when people accuse me of being a liar before they can prove me wrong without the proper facts to do so. It won't happen again that's my guarantee to you personally.

As wolkersdorfer said yheres not much aftermarket support but there are many members here that either custom fab excellent aftermarket parts themselves that either can meet or exceed the top names or have good references

I'll just have to plan a day to go to the pick and pull with a measure tape and look around

That all depends on the location, I'm in a part of California that is tighter than a ticks ass with the smog requirements but they have some leniency here since mypathfinder is an 88 with tbi, I have a funky egr valve that causes a weird bog and had to drop my idle below 750 to pass but I passed with flyring colors, it just all depends on the year and motor style

I wasn't planning on having this be an easy task, as I said, SAS is easy, and I enjoy a challenge, I like making new things and custom parts to make things work, I think ill go to to the pick n pull today and take a peek under some cars, I know the camaro of the 80s had a frame under It and still had the IRS on some models maybe I can look there because I know that's a rear end that will hold up to all the power that my engine has

Good choice for the year range, these little SUVs will go through anything you throw at them except extremely deep mud and quicksand (both of which I have sunken mine in) but if you keep it to the dry terrain they will go further than almost any jeep, definitely further than any Chevy or ford pickup, and the heavier vehicles, your right about the 4runners being held at high values by their owners, but that's to expect for most of all foreign vehicles of that era. As slartibartfast said, general maintenance will keep them on the road and offroad for a very long time. If you go with an 87-89 with the vg30i throttlebody engine, just be careful with water as they're known for sucking water into the intake and leaving you stranded until you either let it dry out of immediately clean the MAF which will make your engine run super rich and spew out heaps of black smoke due to the buckets of fuel being burnt while running hydrolocked. I've had my pathfinder for over a year now, put just over 100,000 miles on it and it still is my daily driver/off-road toy with 316,xxx miles on it . The only issue I've come across is bushings tend to wear very fast if they're still original and its driven off-road a lot, and the sucking water in the intake, other than that, you should be very pleased with the power, handling on and off-road, and the fuel economy after some tuning to the motor. Also the motor is really easy to work on aside from changing the spark plugs. Hope you get a pathfinder and stay in the community, there's a lot of people on here that can assist you with literally any problem/issue you may have, and everyone if is full of respect and kind words to help assist you the whole way through your journey.

Well what would be a good option to look for?? The ford escape was the first one I found to be almost exact to the width of the pathfinder rear end so I kinds liked that idea, I don't think Chevy or jeep did an IRS , I know the ford expedition did it in the newer models but that's way wider than the pathfinder, I mean it won't really matter too much because I'd like to have a wider wheelbase for stability reasons and cornering and all, but I haven't really found a suitable option yet.

The escape has a 3.1L v6 with slightly less horsepower and torque I'm sitting at almost 190 Hp and about 220 lb ft of torque so yes the CVS would snap that's why I'd beef them up a bit and convert to 6 lug

The escape does have a frame under it that's the reason I am choosing to go with an escape rather than like a Nissan armada which is way wider anyhow, and why neither for coilovers vs struts??

True and my on road top speed well that's unknown because my speedometer stops at 105 at about 3800 rpms in 4th gear but back to the topic, I was doing some more thinking and what would be better for off-road and on road combo use, coilovers or some high spec struts??

Yes but the 4.10 will not only bring the rpms back closer to normal opposed to my current 2.20somethin but will also allow me to still have a good top speed, right now I max out just over 180mph on a dyno, which I know is unnecessary, and I know you don't believe me as didn't anyone else so ill post that pic right now http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/cory9999/dynospeednumberone-20130116-234303.jpg

Well when I get the 35s I'm thinking about doing 5.13 front and rear or maybe 4.10 and keep my top speed a little higher but right now the escape is at a 3.77 gear ratio which is higher than what my front and rear are right now

Fixed a nasty exhaust leak that kept sucking water into my catalytic converter, considering removing the cat till I have to smog at the end of the year, and hopefully by that time ill have a completely new exhaust system complete with fully custom made headers by me and a dual exhaust setup ran from a glasspack with twin outlets

That could work too but I would have to have it on an allignment rack while I make my welds to ensure that its gonna drive perfectly straight and have no rear steer, and I don't know anyone that will let me use their allignment rack while welding on it.

I woukdnt be concerned with flex that's for the other pathfinder getting straight axled this would be mainly for if I have to ever drive fast off-road possibly to pass by all the jeeps and chevys and Ford's with straight axles and they have to drive slow through ruts. Thanks for the input so far all three of you, is still like some more input from other members, yes the all wheel alignment will be a task but I think if I get my welds right and those custom control arms right, all ill have to worry about is mainly camber angle, ill also have the task of converting from a 5 lug to 6 with those cv shafts but hopefully when the money comes ill be able to get some beefier hopefully a bit longer ones too

I'm considering ripping the Indepentent rear suspension off of a first generation Ford Escape which has a rear wheel width of 70.1 opposed to the Pathfinder's 66.5 so it will be really close, and looking under my aunts Escape the way the frame rises and lowers in the rear is actually pretty similar to the Pathfinder's frame as well so the mount wouldn't be too difficult either. I'm planning to be able to do coilovers front and rear, even though her set up is struts I would be plugging those holes with a custom made bracket to then be able to mount the lower of the coilover to. Then following the swap I would custom fabricate some upper and lower arms to allow me to lift the front and rear to accommodate for 35" tires along with cutting the fenders to flow with the bumper ill be making as well. I need opinions on this, do's and don'ts, pros and cons of this idea. My reasoning for all of this is to be able to have the smoothest possible ride for 4-wheeling and off road use. Any suggestions will be taken into consideration and before any of you tell me to go SAS this is just experiment and for uniqueness, and because out of all the swaps I've seen I've never seen an IRS on a first gen pathy plus I like the difficulty ill have. and when I have spare $1,500 I'm picking up another 88 pathy to do a SAS to.

So he said all he did was solder the chip then reprogram the ecu even further to allow for more power and better fuel economy, he didn't really go into details, all I know is the guy is a genius with cars, ecus and motors of any size, shape, etc he has my father's F250 with the Triton V-10 getting 25mpg from doing the same thing, chipping then reprogramming.

Not sure what jive means and the ecu chip came from an unconfirmed company, my uncle found it through his database at his shop through the internet its for a 91 hardbody with a vg30 fuel injected engine. I'm not sure what all he did modifying.it to my ecu, ill stop by and see if he remembers

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/cory9999/dynorun1-20130116-234300-1.jpg http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/cory9999/dynospeednumberone-20130116-234303-1.jpg found these on my old iPhone from summer 2012. First dyno run I did after a long tune up right after I got out of UTI. And the second was somewhere near Arlington, TX on my way back from Montgomery, Alabama after I regeared my rear end and got a longer 5th gear to replace the stock overdrive 5th gear. There's no way in hell the mph is correct though because my tires arent rated for that high and would've blown, and my speedometer stopped at 105 at 4,500 rpms 4th gear though so ill never know.

You act like its unheard of to chip an ecu and further reprogram it. Both dynos I used were dynojets and they read pretty similar readings even though they were two different locations and models of dynojet

Stock engine, all ground wires redirected to the block except main ground from battery, regear in the rear, 5th gear, reprogrammed ecu to tell fuel pump to push more and suck more air, not a whole lot really and I'm only pulling about 50-55hp over factory results nothing impressive really it at least I'm not impressed other than the fact that I'm well over 300,xxx miles

I don't have those on file ill call the guy in the AM and have him fax them over

And heres the pink slip to match the vin for the door tag now go fskc yourself for calling me a liar http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/cory9999/IMAG0091.jpg