Cory74700

I'm not sure which brand it was but it said right on the page that they were meant for a d21 hardbody pickup which has dma different frame and crossmember and my bad it was the cross member not the frame that gets cut I would still enjoy making my own set of headers for dirt cheap and ceramic coating them myself and doing the whole deal for under $100 rather than paying in excess of $450-$500 for a pair from some company that can't even ceramic coat the inside. And I've seen Mr510 headers, the outlet has the same connector as stock making it less universal for a true dual exhaust which is what I'm aiming for, coming off the headers to twin CA legal cats to dual glasspacks and on out, I'm more into uniqueness rather than stock, I mean how many people have a true dual exhaust on a pathfinder, and not coming off a Y pipe?? Sounds like a challenge to me, especially the ability to make it work with the IRS ill be doing, I love a challenge, unlike Chevy headers, those are straightforward to make

I've been doing some research on the headers available for this motor through various companies, and I don't like the fact that it requires the cutting away from some of the frame to instal them. So I've come to the conclusion that I will be making my own set of bolt on headers specific to the vg30imotor in the pathfinder. I will then either be chroming them or ceramic coating them, does this sound like a good idea or bad?? I can get all the necessary pieces, I have plenty of welding experience, and ceramic coating is fairly simple as well. If I were to be able to successfully able to make these continuously would it be possible to have a short term market for them?? Thanks.

I'll just have to plan a day to go to the pick and pull with a measure tape and look around

That all depends on the location, I'm in a part of California that is tighter than a ticks ass with the smog requirements but they have some leniency here since mypathfinder is an 88 with tbi, I have a funky egr valve that causes a weird bog and had to drop my idle below 750 to pass but I passed with flyring colors, it just all depends on the year and motor style

I wasn't planning on having this be an easy task, as I said, SAS is easy, and I enjoy a challenge, I like making new things and custom parts to make things work, I think ill go to to the pick n pull today and take a peek under some cars, I know the camaro of the 80s had a frame under It and still had the IRS on some models maybe I can look there because I know that's a rear end that will hold up to all the power that my engine has

Well what would be a good option to look for?? The ford escape was the first one I found to be almost exact to the width of the pathfinder rear end so I kinds liked that idea, I don't think Chevy or jeep did an IRS , I know the ford expedition did it in the newer models but that's way wider than the pathfinder, I mean it won't really matter too much because I'd like to have a wider wheelbase for stability reasons and cornering and all, but I haven't really found a suitable option yet.

The escape has a 3.1L v6 with slightly less horsepower and torque I'm sitting at almost 190 Hp and about 220 lb ft of torque so yes the CVS would snap that's why I'd beef them up a bit and convert to 6 lug

The escape does have a frame under it that's the reason I am choosing to go with an escape rather than like a Nissan armada which is way wider anyhow, and why neither for coilovers vs struts??

True and my on road top speed well that's unknown because my speedometer stops at 105 at about 3800 rpms in 4th gear but back to the topic, I was doing some more thinking and what would be better for off-road and on road combo use, coilovers or some high spec struts??

Yes but the 4.10 will not only bring the rpms back closer to normal opposed to my current 2.20somethin but will also allow me to still have a good top speed, right now I max out just over 180mph on a dyno, which I know is unnecessary, and I know you don't believe me as didn't anyone else so ill post that pic right now http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/cory9999/dynospeednumberone-20130116-234303.jpg

Well when I get the 35s I'm thinking about doing 5.13 front and rear or maybe 4.10 and keep my top speed a little higher but right now the escape is at a 3.77 gear ratio which is higher than what my front and rear are right now

Fixed a nasty exhaust leak that kept sucking water into my catalytic converter, considering removing the cat till I have to smog at the end of the year, and hopefully by that time ill have a completely new exhaust system complete with fully custom made headers by me and a dual exhaust setup ran from a glasspack with twin outlets

That could work too but I would have to have it on an allignment rack while I make my welds to ensure that its gonna drive perfectly straight and have no rear steer, and I don't know anyone that will let me use their allignment rack while welding on it.

I woukdnt be concerned with flex that's for the other pathfinder getting straight axled this would be mainly for if I have to ever drive fast off-road possibly to pass by all the jeeps and chevys and Ford's with straight axles and they have to drive slow through ruts. Thanks for the input so far all three of you, is still like some more input from other members, yes the all wheel alignment will be a task but I think if I get my welds right and those custom control arms right, all ill have to worry about is mainly camber angle, ill also have the task of converting from a 5 lug to 6 with those cv shafts but hopefully when the money comes ill be able to get some beefier hopefully a bit longer ones too

I'm considering ripping the Indepentent rear suspension off of a first generation Ford Escape which has a rear wheel width of 70.1 opposed to the Pathfinder's 66.5 so it will be really close, and looking under my aunts Escape the way the frame rises and lowers in the rear is actually pretty similar to the Pathfinder's frame as well so the mount wouldn't be too difficult either. I'm planning to be able to do coilovers front and rear, even though her set up is struts I would be plugging those holes with a custom made bracket to then be able to mount the lower of the coilover to. Then following the swap I would custom fabricate some upper and lower arms to allow me to lift the front and rear to accommodate for 35" tires along with cutting the fenders to flow with the bumper ill be making as well. I need opinions on this, do's and don'ts, pros and cons of this idea. My reasoning for all of this is to be able to have the smoothest possible ride for 4-wheeling and off road use. Any suggestions will be taken into consideration and before any of you tell me to go SAS this is just experiment and for uniqueness, and because out of all the swaps I've seen I've never seen an IRS on a first gen pathy plus I like the difficulty ill have. and when I have spare $1,500 I'm picking up another 88 pathy to do a SAS to.

Took the upper and lower air pan off then removed the MAF and cleaned it with some isopropyl alcohol. I soaked my whole intake yesterday driving through the river and splashing around, and the check engine light came on and sounded like I was driving with a worn out 454 with a moody cam. Problem solved, pathy is happy and purrs like a kitten again =]

Yes it had bolts at one point the brace is there there are just no bolts to worry about so its like taking off a carburetor lower pan =] but I figured out when I ran my codes I forgot to flip the switch back to normal mode on my ecu, problem solved and that smell I had, was just burning the isopropyl alcohol out cuz I cleaned out the entry as well, now check engine light is off and she purrs like a kitten again instead of sounding like a 454 with a lopey cam haha and yes mine is rigged for California's jacked up smog policy hopefully ten years from now they'll move the smog exempt year to after 88 and I can get rid of the smog crap

Yes it had bolts at one point the brace is there there are just no bolts to worry about so its like taking off a carburetor lower pan =] but I figured out when I ran my codes I forgot to flip the switch back to normal mode on my ecu, problem solved and that smell I had, was just burning the isopropyl alcohol out cuz I cleaned out the entry as well, now check engine light is off and she purrs like a kitten again instead of sounding like a 454 with a lopey cam haha and yes mine is rigged for California's jacked up smog policy hopefully ten years from now they'll move the smog exempt year to after 88 and I can get rid of the smog crap

so i went out there, took it all apart and snapped some photos, i used rubbing alcohol as you suggested but it really wasnt that dirty to begin with, then afterwards, i fired it up and got a lot of odd smelling smoke coming out of the tailpipe, that may just be my cat burnt up, im not sure but then my check engine light started flashing the 1,2,3,4,5 thing that the cpu does... anyway heres some pics... btw the second pic was after i took the three screws out.

So im not positive, but i think i may be a lucky one, my lower pan isnt held on by any bolts or anything, so i get the joy of not swearing at the japanese engineers. ive had the whole pan assembly off before and it was a breeze no pulling too hard or swearing at all. the swearing and yelling came when i had to figure out the hard way of changing my thermostat, that it is probably a million times easier if the intake manifold is off. needless to say, it worked, but thank you so much for this info. my next day off ill be sure to go and pickup some MAFS cleaner and come home and clean the hell out of that thing, i believe it may just be carbon on it though because of a huge backfire resulting in about a foot wide fireball shooting out of my intake last night then trying to smolder for a minute until i blew it out.

no the 324 out of a 1963 el camino, its a really small v8 engine but with tons of mods available

well i ran my ECU codes and threw a 12 which is [Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor]. I've heard there's a Mass Airflow Sensor built into the Throttle Body and is removed by one or two screws, but before I dive head first into it, I'd like to find out where to pull the screws from. It's to my understanding that the Mass Air Flow Sensor isn't like most, where the air is channeled through a tubular like thing, that it almost looks like an injector stuck in there sideways, but I do not know wether its on the left, right, front, or rear of the TBI...

I need to remove and clean it but I have no idea where it is on an 88 pathfinder with the vg30i motor. Anyone ever had to do this before?? I have little to no experience with the tbi system and I've been looking like crazy for a post on the topic but got slim to no results, mass airflow sensor isn't even a word in my Chilton manual thanks in advance for any help.

ok ill do that thank you for all your help

I have no experience with mass airflow sensors, or the whole Throttlebody Intake to be quite truthful, have you any experience with removing it and cleaning it??