MadMax2

After making a long trip *carefully* touch each wheel (quick touch at first, just to test if its really hot) then see if you can find a wheel that is hotter, that normally is the brake that is dragging/wheel bearing failing. If that doesn't lead you to the right direction than its best to just to jack the front up to get the front wheels off the ground and test their rolling resistance (Sometimes you will get the noise when spinning the tire to also pinpoint the noise), then pull wheels off and inspect the pads/baking plates. From my experience most noise is from wear indicators telling you its time for a brake job. I normally touch all of my wheels when on a trip that uses more than a tank of gas, especially trailer wheels!

That window tint didn't look too bad. I'm curious how it would work removing really bad tint.

I finally got around to reading this thread and its making me want to finish removing my old tint. I have tried the trash bag and ammonia (Phew stinky), I've tried the hair drier, I've tried whiskey. The best thing I've found is a good old razor blade. http://www.amazon.co...eywords=scraper Lisle makes my favorite. The blades are easily removed, quick and painless. And for razor blades I stock up on these 3.00 blades from harbor freight http://www.harborfre...9/category/427/ I'll scrape off as much as I can and throw the blade in a bucket when it starts feeling weak (i usually go threw about 10 blades a window). I usually keep a bucket on a chair with the door open (all the old tint goes in there) and the blades too (empty the trash into a cardboard box to avoid destroying a trash bag) . Takes about 10 minutes a window, if the adhesive stays on while pulling the tint off don't worry. Just spray with water and use a new blade and it will come right off.

Check the cigarette lighter fuse, mine did the exact same thing.

Thank you. Also would like to have one of these... I keep an eye on my temperature but it sure does add peace of mind when I am distracted. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-Warning-Light-Kit-Water-Temp,41442.html

I think they go "Cone" side in?

Got these in today to replace soon.... Not sure if the bushings face like this .... or like this.... ??? Manual doesn't say too much...

Thought I'd create a Topic to include everything I am doing/Going to do/Need to do for my 1993 Pathfinder 4x4 5 speed. Threw these in the other day... 1.79 with free shipping from ebay. Not too bad, cheaper than 194 replacements at the autoparts store (2.99+tax)

I like the sound of my flowmaster with the cat delete, but with a stock cat I would try a glasspack. It should be loud enough for most people and performance should slightly increase. It takes a long time for most quality glass packs to go bad from my experience, I am a Cherry Bomb fan, but I have seen off brands, purple hornies, magnaflow bullets, ect. all hold up for a long time.

I don't understand, they fail after 10-12 years and they are replaced with the same part? I had many honda's come in with tail lights "stuck" on, I installed bolt/lock nut and never worried about it again. I've done this on my own vehicles too, never had a issue, I have not climbed under my pathfinders dash yet to see if if its a bolt/nut application but even if it wasn't there has to be a better solution. I believe they used these plastic inserts to get people to come to repair shops and to save on manufacturing time/material costs.

VG33 swap with Villager pistons

Too many variables, it will sound better and many claim better mpg with a free flowing exhaust vs stock but if your foot gets heavier due to the pleasant tone you might be see a decrease. What are these "glass pack problems" you speak of? a muffler that small being chambered seems to be restrictive in my mind, I am currently using a 40 series flowmaster with no converter, I haven't seen a change in mpg, just a better sound. I didn't feel any difference in hp/tq with changing my exhaust, you might gain a little but for me it was not noticeable.

Yeah we require a visual of all of those thing's too... but nobody does it unless they are trying to make money. I've had friends go to inspection stations after doing work on them asking me why I didn't do my job, I would show up to the inspectors station with the car there ask them where the "Dry rotted" belts they would grab a dim light and shine it down... you couldn't even see the belts... I pulled out my c4 led stream light and asked them to look again, piratically brand new green stripe gates belts. He then apologized... what a scam artist. In Texas they can fail you if the inspector feels the vehicle is unsafe even if it is not on the checklist, its their back up clause but most inspectors don't remember/or know it. You can get DOT led turn signals from most major truck stops btw. My 93 has a passenger front corner lamp that needs to be replaced, windshield, front brakes, corner lens, possibly drivers seat belt. front suspension rebuilt, tires. Maybe a converter if they are picky. My Pathfinder was in Colorado for a few years then migrated to Texas, so its just about rust free as they get on the underside.

Have you done state inspections up there? I talked to a few people in PA about it, they really just look for frame damage due to rust, brakes in proper order, and visually safe in the rural counties , simular to Texas. I know for sure I will be replacing my windshield, cleaning up the leakage all over, rebuilding the front suspension, better tires, ect. I will install a magnaflow converter if I have to but I don't know if they will make me. If they say something I'll install a hallow converter I have. One of my inspections here in Texas (rural area) I pulled in turned on my headlights and hazards, gave my insurance card. The guy didn't get off the stool in front of the computer, he then told me I had a turn signal burnt out and gave me a bulb and screw driver after walking over and putting on my new sticker. I used to do state inspections all the time at my last job, my favorite ones are the 1997-1999 over 8500lb gross weight vehicles. Our systems won't let you run a dynometer test or a 2 speed idle test when you enter 1997 or newer as the year, and if your over 8500lbs federal government did not require obd2 until 2000 or 2001, so your supposed to use an adapter from obd1 to obd2 plug and if your check engine light for obd1 isn't on you pass, obd1 has no idea if your converter is there or working lol. Other things that are funny is the wipers cannot have a tear more than 1/2'', but your wipers don't have to function to pass. Windshields that are cracked pass, but its illegal to drive in Texas with one and you can be ticketed, Just as crazy as Colorado, if you don't have snow chains you can be ticketed, even if its summer.

Tech Tip... replacing shocks doesn't help it every suspension component is in need of replacement

Then my horrible suspension

The Pathfinder & Parts The tools and equitment The gut

^^^^^^^^^ I agree with the last post I got it all installed today, 30 bucks total invested. Took a quick video after leaving the exhaust shop. NOTE: the video I took of my exhaust open y pipe was with the windows rolled up, this video is taken with front windows down. [media=] [/media]

I don't like converters. That aftermarket magnaflow normally will last a year or two before the insides wear down and you begin failing smog tests. Plus advance is too expensive.. http://www.amazon.com/Magnaflow-53004-Universal-Catalytic-Converter/dp/B000COWZRU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1347057318&sr=8-2&keywords=MagnaFlow+Universal+Catalytic+Converter 47.00 free shipping for us prime users. I decided to make everyone happy including my wallet. I picked up a flowmaster 40 series 2.5 in/out for 10 bucks at a junk yard and my exhaust shop is supposed to install it for 20 keeping the piping the same over the axle back. I slid the muffler over the cut pipe today and it sounded pretty quiet. I'm going to be moving to PA soon in a county they don't do smog testing, I will call a inspector up there to see if they do a visual for the converter before I leave Texas.

Eh not too bad, My 65 volkswagen was a lot louder, I had a header and a stinger, and if you know anything about old volkswagens... they are made of a lot of thin metal with little sound deading material... well little back in 1965, so just about none. I could get next to straight pipe harley's and make their riders cover their ears. My MR2 was louder as well, it was straight pipe with about 2 feet of pipe from the collector, with its gearing I was at 4,000rpm at 70mph+, drove it from Houston to New York like that lol. Loud exhaust is in my DNA.

Dropped $40 into the well today so I figured I'd take another video to change the notorious empty wd21 fuel gauge lol..

haha so true! About to put 20 in her today.. that may get me a few more days! Gas is really going quick now that I have the a/c kinda working (I replaced the idler pulley and installed a new belt, blows cold but linkage for airflow direction isn't working and its blowing out of defrost/floor)

Here is a video I took yesterday, its terrible cell phone quality though. (This is straight pipe that exits before the converter)

I am a slow driver, my pathfinder is currently running with about 12'' of exhaust pipe after Y union, I could not tell a difference between current and before with stock exhaust and now almost open headers. I have listened to several exhaust sound clips on youtube and I don't care for any of them except this, but it is a dohc...

I know everyone is going to cry at the thought of this... but I really enjoy the sound of dual exhaust, I am not looking to gain much power, just sound. I was looking to run pipe from each manifold down pipe and eliminate the y pipe and use a single glasspack on each side and have the exhaust exit just like factor , just from each side. I am currently running with my exhaust cut just before the converter, its not too loud to me (im young) but its not a good verbal, I'd like to try true duals. Has anyone done this before? Maybe a X pipe, but I doubt it.