Splish

Depends, what parts do you want, how much of it do you want? Get in touch with me... Lenny.Burch@hotmail.com or 905-346-4852

I have had many adventures with this vehicle over many years. I will miss it! Kijiji Ad: http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/st-catharines/2004-nissan-pathfinder-chinook-offroad/1171232249?src=topAdSearch 2004 Nissan Pathfinder Chinnook (#664 Limited Edition) Vehicle Specs: http://www.autos.ca/car-test-drives/test-drive-2004-nissan-pathfinder-chinook/ Contact by Phone or Email: Lenny lenny.burch@hotmail.com 905-346-4852 3.5L V6 (Nissan VQ35DE Engine) 4 Speed Auto with O/D Vehicle: 290000 kms Engine: 104000kms (Rebuilt at 186000kms) $4250 O.B.O. as is. Factory: Power Steering Electronic Brake Assist Power Sunroof Power Windows Power Door Locks Keyless Entry (2 FOBS, only one key) Dual Heated Mirrors Cruise Control Air Conditioning Anti-Theft System Extras: ARB Winch Mount Bull Bar Smittybilt X20 8,000Lb Winch PIAA 50W Fog Lights 2x KC Highlighter Long Range Lights 120W Custom 3/8" Steel Front Skid Plate Rocky Road Outfitters Super Slider Rock Sliders Custom 5/8" steel Differential Skid Plate KYB Front Struts Old Man Emu 1/2" Lift Heavy Duty Front Coils 2" HDPE Strut Spacers Bilstein 5100 Rear Shocks Class III/IV Hitch Dick Cepek 16" x 8" DC II Black Wheels (*Brand New*) Toyo Open Country AT II 265/75 R16 (32") Tires (*Brand New*) I am the second owner of this vehicle. Purchased in 2008 from a lease return. Engine runs immaculate. Transmission, tranfer case and differentials in great condition. Needs some body work, some re-upholstry work, and very minor mechanical work. Stereo only has AM/FM as the tape deck and CD Player have died. Factory 150W Bose Amp and 6 Bose Speakers. I have done most of the work on this vehicle myself, and oil changes have been performed every 5000kms with Semi-Synthetic Oil.

I have the ARB Winvh Mount Bull Bar on my 2004 Nissan Pathfinder. It is listed on the ARB website as only fitting up to 2002 models, but they are wrong. I origionally purchased it expecting to have to modify it slightly, but no mods needed, it bolted right on, all bolt holes lined up, and plenty strong. In the 6 years I have had it on my truck, I have winched off it many times with a 10,000lb winch and a snatch block. So I have put 20,000Lbs loads on it and it never budged. I highly recommend it. Next time I take it apart, I plan to weld the mounts directly to the frame with some stitch welds just to ensure its strength, but that is a want, not a need!

So I currently have the AC 2" lift coils and KYB struts on my truck. Have had them for about 4 years. and really, not very impressed at all. So it's time for new struts. I have decided to order the 2" Strut spacers from Snake Racing in Australia, and the Old Man Emu 1/2" lift springs. But I haven't decided on struts yet. Can anyone give me some advice of struts, what brand and model would you recommend and why? Thanks.

I run through Northern Ontario a lot in the summer. Many water crossings, and submerge my difs all the time, so I change out the fluid. I think the t case has a breather line on it, but have never really checked, so I change that too just to be safe. In the winter I don't change it at all as I am not up there. Eventually, I will get my ass in gear and put breather lines on my difs. I have also seen these awesome little plastic accordian style things that go on the difs that expand and contract to let air in and out, yet are completely sealed so water and debris can't get in. I saw them once on a website for Toyotas, but can't seem to find them now.

I was going to start on this same type of project soon. I was thinking I would run one line from back to front and right into my air intake box which has a snorkel. I can then tie the rear dif, t case, front dif and transmission all into the one main line. What do you think, would that work?

This has happened to me. The aluminum t case combined with a steel filler plug leads to trouble. They cease up all the time and usually require a torch to loosen them. However, its not easy getting a torch up in there. I did snap a 13mm tool off in mine before. So I went and bought a new filler plug, then welded an old socket to the filler plug. The heat from the weld was enough to loosen it up and then I spun it out. Put the new filler plug in with a little anti-sieze on the threads and it has been very good ever since. I change my fluids once a month, and now I apply anti-sieze to the threads of all my filler and drain plugs. Just a tiny bit though, don't go crazy with the stuff.

The parking brake light in Pathfinders is also the "Brake Fluid Low" Light. Your brake fluid is low, which would explain why when you acceslerate, the light comes on. The fluid moves and the sensor turns on the light...

Have you guys ever seen those accordian style breathers. No hoses, just a plastic accordian that can expand and contract. That way, it can let out air, or take air in, yet no contaminents can get in.

Ok, so I am installing some rock sliders I built. The sliders will bolt on, however, I need to weld some tabs onto my frame. I have a 2004 Pathy, and I can't get the grinder up in there to clean off the frame. My frame has a powder coat on it, and then some undercoating spray that is about 5 mils thick on top of that. What is the easiest way to remove all that, and like I said, I can't get a grinder up in there...

That;s why I am building mine out of aluminum. Trying to keep the center of gravity as low as I can. The lower the center of gravity, the less likely you are to roll...

Ahh, so a middle mount is just a spring spacer. Basically making the spring stiffer. Ok, got it. Thanks.

Yeah, I understand how they call it a 2" lift. Basically all they have done is changed the ride height. However, they gave me 4 springs that are 2" higher than stock. The front ones I compressed to all hell to get them on, then the weight of my engine, ARB bumper, skids and Winch still pressed them down a little. However, in the rear of the truck, there is little to know extra weight to compress the springs. It was riding at the full height of the springs. I sat in the drivers seat and slid forward out of it, I kid you not! I had 2.5" to 3" of rake. It looked like a drag car. So I left the ridiculously compressed springs on the front, put the OEM springs back in on the rear, and now, it looks factory again. I have gained some ride height in the front, no doubt, and with the Rancho 9000s in the rear, I have much more travel in my system. Currently, with this setup, I have about an inch of rake, and I will fix that problem with a 1" spacer. I think that AC should inform people that it is not a lift kit, just a stiffer spring to change ride height, or supply OEM springs for the front with a 2" strut spacer! At least that way, I would still have the full travel down in the front.