MrT

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-90899.html Look at it this way. You'll save the money you spend on this in gas by not having to drive around seeing if the things you did had any effect. You won't regret it. It's the ONLY way to accurately trouble shoot wiring.

Get a multimeter so you know what is going on instead of just randomly guessing?

just an FYI. While they might work together the R-134a molecule is smaller than that of R-12. This makes a lot of converted systems leak because the the hoses are not made for R-134a.

put a glove on and pull harder... If that doesn't work I'd recommend a set of pliers and some good old mechanical advantage.

That is a pretty good guide. It covers cars with a built in amp. I think that throws A LOT of people for a loop when they replace the stereo. And if you have the factory amp and want to run your speakers from aux amp (instead of just your subs) have fun running all new speaker wires. And just to throw in my $.02. Don't waste your money on "car audio" power wire. Go to your local Electric Supply store and just buy the proper gauge Stranded Copper THHN wire. It's easier to install, just a "shielded" and way, way, way less $$. And don't buy over sized wire because you think it's "cool." All you are doing is spending more money to give yourself a bigger headache. To find what gauge wire you need you should take the total RMS wattage (sum of RMS/ch you plan to use) of your amp divided by 13.8. This is your amperage draw. Give yourself a reasonable buffer ( x1.5-2). under 40A = 8ga 40 - 55 = 6ga 55 - 75 = 4ga 75 - 100 = 2ga

Well, I guess I'm a little late on this one but I would have kept it. That is a very common spot for it to rust through since the water collects in that flange. I can't really tell from the pictures but these mufflers come with a heat shield that rusts apart but usually leaves the muffler in tact. Either way if anyone ends up here with the same problem all you need to do is cut the flange off and use a section of new exhaust pipe (~$5) cut it to size and slip it over the two ends. Then you just put a clamp on either end and call it a day. I fixed mine for $10 and it's never given me a problem since.

If you use the tool that came with your truck it's pretty easy. If you don't have one, good luck...

How many have actually driven the R51? I have quite a bit. SO.... Pros: 1. It has power... 2. LOTS of power. 3. Did I mention the 4.0L V6 with 266hp (and it gets avg. 19-20mpg compared to 14-17mpg for underpowered VG33E R50s) 4. Comfort is tops of all Pathys (I've driven all forms) 5. As capable off-road as an R50 6. It has a modern suspension. In theory not the greatest for off road... but on a road, a real road, far and away the best handling pathfinder. Cons: It could look better. Just my humble opinion. But that being said. I'd take an R50 In no respect is it a better vehicle, but for some reason I just like it more.

If you aren't into beating the @!*% out of your Pathy... and I mean really beating it, you can just leave it off. I've put 50k on mine without one and it looks just fine.

Yes, it's cheap and actually good. I got that exact model as my "first" meter. I have a better one now but that thing still works and it's not because I was nice to it. It's a pretty handy device to have in general too. As for where to test you do it at the ECU and at the MAF. Test at the MAF for the 12V source and at the ECU for the signal from the MAF. You'll have to consult the FSM for the correct pin on the ECU harness. It should also explain the procedure in greater detail and tell you what the voltage coming from the MAF should be at a given rpm. You'll have to be careful when you test at the sensor because it's weather sealed (at least it is on my R50) and you want to get under that but not tear or rip it. At the ECU is easy once you know which pin it is. And if you have someone else handy it makes it easier. That way they can jiggle the connector while you watch the meter.

Do you have a multimeter? It's pretty much the only way to tell if your MAF is working properly other than some blatantly obvious "MAF not working" issues. i.e. kicks into "limp home mode" and you have a MAF code. You test it by first making sure it's receiving the proper voltage and then seeing if the voltage steps properly when you increase rpm. If you don't have one already I highly recommend THIS. It will be your new best friend if your Pathfinder is anything like mine.

My light hasn't worked since I got it. Can't say I miss it. The gas gauge is the best one I've ever had though. It's actually fairly accurate, if you take into account that the middle of the 'E' line means 3 gal. left. I've had two Fords that the gas gauges must have been logarithmic. You'd fill it up and when it got to 1/2 you really had a 1/4 and it quickly fell to 'E' from there. Just one more reason never to buy a Ford again I guess...

That works... who knew... I was looking through the body parts and it's a "Stay-Front suspension member" [54465] at least that's what it looks like to me. And it's only $12!!!

Not part of the actual radiator support. Bolts to the bottom of it and connects to the subframe.

Quick question. Hope one of you can help. What do you call the part that connects the bottom of the rad support to the subframe? I've got two and one is almost rusted away. I figure I could just go to a junk yard and pull one for cheap but I'm guessing it would be full of rust too and these things look like they'd be cheap if someone still makes them. Any help is much appreciated.

I looked around and all I could find is an information plaque on the firewall but there was no obvious build date on it. Just the Transmission model which while the same as the TSB isn't included in the model years the TSB covers. I crawled under to try and find a serial on the Trans case itself to check but I couldn't find one anywhere I could see from underneath.

You need to connect the lead that supplies a +12 when the unit is on to TWO wires on the factory harness. The factory amp turn on lead is LG/R on the factory harness. Then it should work like a champ!

So I noticed a little Fluid around the drain plug of my transmission. Figured it wouldn't be a bad idea to check the level since I never have since I purchased it. To my surprise I got my arm showered in trans fluid. I know you are supposed to keep the WD21's overfilled but I can't find anything on Manual Trans R50's. I drained the extra fluid and was just wondering if it was a good idea to overfill it again. I was planning on changing the fluid over anyhow but wanted the word from the guys here to see what you all do. Thanks.

I was looking around when I pulled the computer and I think there is a sensor missing that should get pushed in when the clutch is all of the way out. It WILL crank without the clutch needing to be depressed.

The only coil I have is the one in it. The plug looks fine to me (a little white on the electrode). Same as the rest except #2 which is more black than white. Just changed the plugs about 15k ago. Wires test within spec for resistance (~12.5k for #4, ~10.5k for #2[the ones I swapped]). My only thoughts left are bad rings on #4 (which would make sense with the stall out on cold starts) or a bad valve (which I would think would happen at all rpm and not just at idle?). I don't have a compression tester though. Any suggestions on brand etc? The only thing that would make sense to me for the coil being bad is that the #4 wire has the highest resistance. Really hoping I don't have a bad valve or rings. Injector maybe? Is it normal for just one to go bad (of course in the most god awful place to get at)? The only other oddity I've noticed is that after I shut off the car after a few mins I can hear a noise that is coming from the tank area (fuel pump?) that will turn on for maybe 5 sec and then shut back off. it'll do it ever couple of minutes or so and then no more after about 10min. I've got an extra fuel filter that I never put on but that just doesn't make sense to me since the miss is always on the same cylinder. Thanks for the help so far btw.

UPDATE: the error code does not follow the wire...

'78 Suzuki GS1000

Cap and rotor look to be in good shape. It's always the #4 so I don't think it'd be the coil. Wire has no visible defects. connectors are still clean and with no corrosion so to speak of. Plug is in good shape. replaced them all ~16k ago. They all are wearing the same. Only happens at idle. If I keep it at 1k rpm it's fine. let it drop and after about 20sec to 1min at idle I get the flashing light and a miss code. Will stall out on cold starts but not when warmed up. Only had it knock once and it was on a cold start at about 2 deg F.

ok, misfire code is back... any help... anyone?

ok, well I've pulled these codes before and they are always the same. They showed up as a group only when it went into fail-safe. And it's a 5spd if that matters for the Trans code. EDIT: ok so I checked the FSM (may should have done that first?) and it lists the Mass air as a possible cause for the miss. But I'm still clueless about the Trans codes.