theexbrit

:laugh: I love all the different opinions I wonder how somebody like Pennzoil & Fram can stay in business for all these years if they're so bad I'm not biased to any one product & I agree that Fram filters seem like shee-ite with all that cardboard. I watched a couple of videos on YouTube where they cut open different filters & the Purolator seemed to have lots of filter surface area compared to the Fram, also better bypass valve, etc. Anyway, I'm not trying to start any "oil fights", everyone has their own thoughts on these subjects. Personally, I'd like to find a good oil & filter that MOST people agree is worth the money.

Great job!! Unfortunately it has come to late to save my Pathy from dented doors. that kind of cage would definitely have saved my truck, the boulder hit right where the middle bar is!

I use Pennzoil 10-30w, don't need 5w as it never gets very cold in Southern California! I'm also using a dreaded Fram Toughguard at the moment but will probably use something else next oil change. Everyone has their own likes/dislikes as always, & I'm not particularly "wedded" to one brand or another. As for synthetic oil in a high mileage car here's what I found out from several sources......... "Should I Use Synthetic Oil In My Car? That depends on the vehicle's age, mileage, and the carmaker's recommendations for engine lubricants. Older vehicles with high mileage tend to have excessive mechanical wear in the engine, allowing for internal oil leakage. On vehicles with high mileage, it is not recommended to use full synthetic oil because it is thin and very free flowing, and use of it does (more often than not) result in internal oil combustion. I used full synthetic oil in a Plymouth Neon. After logging120K miles the car started to consume oil at an alarming rate. Concerned, I switched to a semi-synthetic oil that was more full-bodied and the consumption stopped. I logged another 30K miles and sold it. It's still running with over 200K miles today and it doesn't burn oil. Carmakers use full synthetics and semi synthetics in some of their engines today. In most cases, you will find that a synthetic lubricant is used when there's a high performance engine with tight engine tolerances, high compression, and high operating temperatures. Follow your owner's manual for motor oil recommendations. If you want to use synthetic oil and your car is still under warranty, check with your local dealer before switching to synthetic oil (just to make sure you're covered with the switch)." It seems that semi-synthetic is the best choice for high mileage cars.

That's great info TC, thanks!

That'd be great bro, thanks. I'm just amazed that Nissan doesn't seem to stock them, or do they but they're just outrageously priced?

This is true & I can vouch that Karmann & a stock Montero both made it through the "Rock Garden" just after Diablo Drop Off in Anza Borrego, that was pretty tough section for stock vehicles. Kudos to you both. Now, of course trying to tackle a section like "Denting Boulder Gulch" where I had my run in with the rock, well...................

I'll snap a couple of pics tomorrow. It took a while to figure out which clips actually fit & look best.

:laugh: :laugh: I think the exhaust pipe one looks good because it exits the fender further back.

Thanks guys. It looks like the NEOx 3mm bulbs with the plastic base are exactly right for the one I want to replace, but I'm guessing you can't use them as they're too long (as Towncivilian says) I had this same problem with some H3 LED replacement bulbs I bought for the fog lights, they were too long to fit in the lens. TC, how did you fit the bulbs in the plastic holder? The ones from Radio Shack look like they're just the bare bulb.

Anyone replaced the tiny "micro" bulbs that illuminate when the AC or Recirc switch is pressed? I've searched everywhere & even the dealer doesn't have them. It looks like the teeny tiny bulb comes with the tiny little circular plastic base as one unit, but it's definitely separate from the whole switch assembly that my dealer was trying to convince me to buy.

It's hard to get them off without breaking the plastic mounting "tabs", maybe dirtymike can tell you how he did it. I just removed mine totally & plugged the holes with door panel clips. Personally, I like the look without flares as it makes the tires seem beefier if you have pro comps, but then again mine is a beaten up old '96 not a clean 2004

I was wondering if a square pipe might look better than a round pipe? I thought of using 3" gutter down pipe, anyone tried this?

Do as stioc says if you're having trouble getting the old studs out. Personally I used a press. A little tip, if you buy the top mounts without the studs already fitted it's a bastard to get a wrench on the last stud nearest the inner fender. Tack weld the studs to the mount before you fit them.

Everything has been pretty much said by the other guys, but just to add my 2 cents worth when mine was stock it did pretty well over most terrain, you just have to go a little slower & be a bit more careful I have a 2" lift but only "El Cheapo" 31"x10.5" Kelly Safari AT's & I'm really surprised at what the Kelly's have got me through. As the others have said, it depends on what type of terrain you want to hit. If it's mostly trails then an AT will be fine most of the time, but being in New England It's going to be damp a lot of the time so an MT would probably be better for you. That said, my Kelly's have got me through some deep mud holes, but that's California mud :laugh:

The stock wheels are hub centric, most aftermarket are lug centric. I have lug centric Pro Comps on mine & use tapered nuts tightened in the correct sequence, no problems with mine except a very slight vibration at about 50mph. I was thinking of using spacers but as I said, if you tighten the lug nuts in the correct sequence you shouldn't have a problem.

This is the thing I was thinking of........... http://www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=rr_4004_c

Yeah, more cigarette lighter ports. I have an inverter but I don't run it all the time. This module I saw was really cool, you fed a power line in direct from the battery & you could run all kinds of accessories of it. I wish I could remember the name of it.

That's what I did, it looks kinda cool. Hardware stores usually have a big selection of trim plugs.

Hi all, I need some more 12v power/USB outlets for my iPad, phone, etc, not sure where I saw it but I remember seeing a 12v auxiliary power outlet module that was made for off roading. It was pretty expensive but I read good things about it, anyone have any ideas or recommendations? Thnx.

If your clunk is coming from the front, check your sway bar links. Mine were shot when I bought the car & were clunking like heck. I put new ones on but one of the bolts came a bit loose & it started clunking again until I tightened it up. I also had a clunk from the steering rack, the pipes were leaking allover the drivers side rubber mount & had eaten it away so my steering rack was moving around a bit. That clunk was when I turned from one lock to the other so that was easy to ID. If it clunks over bumps I'd go for the sway bar links.

That sounds like maybe a master cylinder problem. My brakes are like most peoples, they're not great but there's no "lag" such as you have.

Bombay Beach is the most famous area, but it's degrading fast. A lot of the stuff in these documentaries has gone now. last time I went there most of the "landmark" structures had gone (salt is VERY corrosive). This whole area is fascinating, we go to Anza Borrego a lot as you can see in our desert trip posts (Karmann, me & others), that's right by Salton Sea. There's also "Salvation Mountain", Joshua Tree, Ocotillo Wells off road area & tons of other cool places.

Happy Birthday DVW!!!

Well I figured it out I think. The 168/194 are "5w" but on the package it said "14.5v", I got another bulb, I think it was 3825 or something, maybe it was the 2825. I'll look tomorrow. Anyway, 2825/3825 was listed as "13.5v" on the package. Well I put the bulb in & hey presto it's as bright as the others! Unfortunately they are all listed as "5w" so I don't know if they're actually 4.5w, 3.8 or whatever, but what you're saying makes sense unless it was the different volts needed

Sounds like it may be a problem with the anti lock brakes. If it believe the car is sliding in reverse it must confuse the ABS or something.