gv280z
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Posts posted by gv280z
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Question, do all of you guys still have two catalytic converters on your trucks? I'm still have a hard time with this two cat thing...grrrrr...I wanted to cut one of and replace with flex pipe or something and everone was "Oh GOD NO!!!! You can't do that!!! It's going to throw codes at you and it's ILLEGAL!"
damn man....I swear people freak the frosted pudding out when you say your going to change the OEM setup.
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Alright here we go! EGR / EGR cooler DELETE coming this week!!! YAY!! No more clogged EGR valves, or white / gray smoke and no more overheating and plus a lot more power! Hurray!!! And then we only have to look forward to failing head bolts from stretching out and roller rocker bearings disinigrating inside the engine !!
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wow, uhh...Nice intro...sorry to hear you are all banged up. Hope you can heal up and get back to work soon. Regarding this Pathfinder you've stumbled across...you can do better...waay better, I'd keep looking if I were you. There are some pretty good deals on some WD21s and early R50s here in Houston if you don't mind the trip, you really might wanna take a gander at Houston Craigs List. I've run across several deals I'd consider if I were looking, on both sides of the generation divide. For instance:
(Holy crap dude!) http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/4657927519.html
http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/4581474002.html
I'd jump at both of these, atleast worth a hard look anyway.
Cool job man, I think locomotives are interesting as hell too. You don't get to hear from very many railmen from the train culture. I think it's pretty amazing that all of those millions of tons of weight are being pulled around by giant direct current batteries and electric motors, score one for the geeky underdogs, right?
Nice to have another Texan on board!
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I traded a 1980 Datsun 280zx for an 85 Maxima with the digital speedometer, I really liked that car until it got totalled one morning
Welcome here fellow Nissan addict
Hi!, my name is Greg and I'm also a Nissan addict. -
Hmm, that looks like a Nissan option to me...it's perfect, the contour matches the fender. Or there is someone out there building really great winch bumpers for R50s.
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I used 2.25, and no I didn't get any gains that I know of, but after I eventually install two new high flow cats and all the piping at 2.25...yeah, there'll probably be something there..just the muffler by itself, not really...to tell you the truth, I'm not sure I didn't loose power...
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I KNOW, I know exhaust talk AGAIN.....I just wanted to highlight my own personal experience, for what it's worth. I just had this Flowtech Raptor installed for a 100 bucks, muffler cost me $30 at O'Reilly auto parts: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/FLTM/50050FLT/N0599.oap?ck=Search_N0599_-1_-1&pt=N0599&ppt=C0112 and I'm really happy with it.
It's an upgrade over the heavy, giant original muffler, cheap as Sin and has a nice, low, barely audible rumble. There's absolutely NO cabin drone noise, it's not obnoxious in any way, you can hear the exhaust tone once you know it but any other person riding in the car would never know anything was different.
Power not bad either, sounds good but within reason under heavy acceleration...I can't tell you for certain that there is any power increase, drivability seems to be slightly improved..I think...could be psychosomatic and I just filled up so I'll have to wait to see any mileage gains. I'm really happy cause also got my exhaust hung correctly, apparently it's been broken off the hangers for last 3 years and ever time i'd hit a bump I could always feel something loose slapping the underside of the truck and it drove me nuts!
Also learned that what I thought was a resonator that I could have deleted, turns out that I'm lucky enough to have TWO inline catalytic converters! WTH? So that'll be my next cut and replace..couple of high flow cats.
So anyway, if your in need of a cheap, basic new muffler that may get you a little better flow over OEM and NO annoying exhaust drone filling the cabin...check it out, for me...way worth $30 entirely.
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Damn..for me it must have been my go-kart or Mongoose bmx....Redline flight 175 3 piece cranks and bearclaw pedals that liked to dig into your shins occasionally....had a number plate too...hehe..
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Toyota Celica GT4 All Trac turbo
circa 92 - 94, round there..-
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Im going to throw out there any car that is currently in the "tuner" crowd. No hear me out, not the vehicles that have been "modified"(ebay or otherwise), but the cars that are left untouched. A lot of people have destroyed 240sx's and its getting harder and harder to find them in decent condition. Same goes for the AE86, Civic Si, 300zx, Supra, Miata.... See where Im going with this?
Yes, I do and it pisses me off to see what disgusting, ghettofied lengths that people will stoop to on how to really screw up a once great car...but guess what, I've got a little ray of sunshine for you...errr...I think. You see, I've only just "discovered" this car for myself and now I'm really charged up about them....
The early to mid 90s Lexus SC 400 and 300. I'm way more partial to the SC300 because I like the straight 6 double overhead cam Supra engine. I've always loved Supras and here I've found where they all migrated to in camouflage.
These cars only really had one generation and only had slight cosmetic and small engine variances and seems to me have been largely ignored / looked over or forgotten about. The really interesting thing is the 300 is only just a shade slower 0-60 than the 4.0 v8 engine'd SC400 and seems they'd have about the same rate of acceleration. I am stoked to have discovered these cars and would really like to get one. However, searching on CL does shows some signs of morons getting their hands on them too...but hopefully they are the minority.
Ahh Lord...
I'm wrong, they've been corrupted too. Sigh. Tried to find some good links but there are none, other than Wikipedia. -
As the others suggested, I'd take a look at the hubs. I can't remember if auto hubs are swappable between axles but if they are, swap them and see if the problem moves. I wouldn't think you could test auto hubs by spinning the wheels while the front is in the air since they would require a load on them.
If you think the hubs are the problem, I may still have my old auto hubs floating around somewhere you are welcome to have gratis, just pay shipping from FL. They are from my 87. Double check spline counts, I think mine is 27. I'll try to remember to check this thread regularly, let me know.
Good luck.
("++3 On the diff...I'm not sure about the locking hub but it seems to me something related to the diff itself...")
Are you referring to my post? Cause the sentence above was the only time I mentioned the hubs, if the hub locks or binds up, then it would pull just as well as the other side that is also "locked", if it is broken and fails to lock then it just wouldn't give any power when needed.
I'm focused on the ring and pinion gears inside the diff itself, or the output shaft may be corrupt, gnarled, binded up because of operating at a severe angle.
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Acura NSX, Homina HOMINA!
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Crap I totally forgot about the Honda S2000 for the classic category! That thing should be in a league of its own. I think it was one of the first of the newer small cars to have well into the 200 hp range out of a naturally aspirated 4 cyl engine, without nitrous. Just before that, the closest thing would have been the H22 from the last gen Prelude at like 195 hp, which was a lot from a 4 cyl without assistance, and that's the way I like 'em, all motor baby
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If we are talking ugly, as in U. G. L. Y. the Ford Flex has got NO alibi! It looks like a refrigerator on wheels. And then I put the BMW Mini Clubman (extended version) behind that, I like Minis but that Clubman is horrid.
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++3 On the diff...I'm not sure about the locking hub but it seems to me something related to the diff itself...say for instance the left side output shaft is binded up and can't spin, so that leaves all the power going RIGHT, to the passenger side..that tire is pulling hard because the other is bound up. I say, engage in 4 High and lift into the air, and just try to spin the tires, if you can't spin the left but are able to spin the right, or the left is unequally stiff to spin, the right spins more easily than the left...there you go...maybe you've got a caliper locked up..could be off balance hydraulics in the brake lines, or one of your caliper piston is siezed....oh but that doesn't explain why it's exclusively in 4 wheel that you have the problem...
seems to me like one half of your diff is gummed up,...OR...it's a bad U joint in the axle, maybe due to a bad angle caused by the lift? Show us some pics of your front suspension and shafts.
Is it possible for the splines to get crossed?
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Every time I see a newer Sentra, that looks exactly like the tall, narrow style of the Corolla, it just pisses me off..I can't believe Nissan did that to that once tough looking, muscular car. I can't stand the "tall narrow" trend that is seems like everyone is moving towards..blah.
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Wow, that thing is coming right along man. Crap, what time was it at the three minute mark? Just watching you work on those lugnuts with the cicada's outside chirping, I could almost feel the 3 a.m. delirium, out there in the garage for the last 5 hours beating on that damn wheel! Good stuff man, you should start a youtube channel and get subscribers and get paid. I think people would watch, you and your dad are a fun team to watch and you do good video editing.
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Dude I saw you in a movie once, the fbi was hunting you and all these black helicopters circled around and shot at your house, But you'd already escaped out through the tunnels underneath, great movie..I mentioned in ealier posts that I'm out in the the woods and don't have high speed internet. My computer is hooked to a party phone line (with wires) and only has a dial up connection. Which means I have pulse not tone connection. Unless your over 40 or so (does any one remember a phone with a dial) you might not know what that means but basically it means I can't send photos to photobucket etc.. A couple of the boys on here have offered to help with this (Nunya and Bushnut) and when I get my new email address straightened out I will try to get them to set me up with photos. Also I have no cell phone, DVD's, CD's, GPS's, iPhones, ETC or any other initials except VHS. I live on a dirt road where sometimes I don't see traffic for days...and I love it. Some people go off roading now and again, I do it every time I get to the end of the driveway.
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My recommendation is, if after you talk to your sons friend and tell him the work that needs to be done, and you tap all of your resources for advice and information...and nothing works out, and you feel you absolutely must do something about your truck, then spend $200 and get a decent set of used tires from a small tire shop, spray off the engine with degreaser in the car wash, and get the sunroof fixed...sell the car for $3700 neg, accept $3300 and pocket the $2900 left over cuz that's what it's worth in fair to good condition in your zip code of 68503 in Lincoln, here's the link for your car:
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Hello,
I have loved my Pathfinder since the day I bought it new. Now I am looking at a lot of repairs/ maintenance ~$3500 and was told by an independent mechanic he wouldn't put the money into it since the exhaust manifolds tend to go at around 165,000 miles. Plus, was just reading the threads about the rust issue. I asked both the dealer and the independent mechanic if I should junk it because of rust and both said no. I live in Lincoln, Nebraska and we get salt on the roads here.
This is what I have been told I need:
1. Both Valve cover gaskets are leaking approx cost to fix: $385 but the NIssan Service Mgr. said he didn't know what other problems they would find once they were "in there."
I'd say this one is the most labor intensive because of removing the intake plenum, but your son's friend should be able to get it.
2. Replace Spark plugs, wires, fuel filter and PCV valve approx. $300This shouldn't be necessary because you had a tune up at 100,000 miles
3. Replace front struts approx.$780 at dealer, $925 at independent mechanic
parts cost $100 for the pair and your son's friend can do this
4. Replace rear shocks $316 at dealer, $330 at independent mechanic
parts cost $100 for the pair and your son's friend can do this
5. Replace four tires $769 from dealer
This one you've got a little bit of wiggle room, depending on sales being run at various dealership, buy 3 get one free, etc....brand, size, various factors raise or lower tire costs, I'd say $500 to $800 here.
6. Alignment $70 from dealer $90 from independent mechanic
This one is pretty much gonna remain the same....
7. Needs new Distributor cap and rotor only the independent mechanic says this no price yet.Again, you shouldn't need this because you had a tune up at 100,000 that included all of these things.
8. Repackaging Front wheel bearings, new pads and turn rotors Only the Nissan Service Mgr says I need this $300
I'm not sure about repacking the front wheel bearings, there's not hardly any labor involved and parts cost less than $50 I'd guess, new pads are around $30 to 60 per set front / rear and turning the rotors I'd guess about 15 per rotor and the friend can do this.
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Trailing and traction arm bushings are Torn Only the Nissan Service Dealer says I need this $500Probably can slide by on this, maybe stave off to another time but the bushings themselves are not expensive, probably $30 for a kit, The kid should be able to do it...it may not even really be necessary though.
10. Sunroof leaks into cabin when it rains haven't gotten an estimate on that. I was hoping I could just clean and Armour-all the gaskets to stop the leak.
This one I'd take to a windshield repair shop and let them check it out, the diagnosis may cost you around 50 to 90 but they usually include that in the cost of repair if you decide to go forward. It may not turn out that bad.
A lot of this stuff kinda seems like some hype to me. If I were you I'd first talk to everyone I know, use all your resources, and second, focus on the things that you are really aware of, that you know are affecting your drivability in this car, brakes, tires, sunroof...stuff like that. The necessity on some of this stuff is kinda left open to interpretation, and from their point of view it's like " It's good to just, you know, go ahead and get it done....and pay us..even though, it's not technically critical.."
If your mechanic is worried about the bolts breaking, he can go ahead and change them out for a higher grade bolt, which would save you in the long run. This is an issue atleast with my generation of VG30 v6 engine, yes,the bolts do break...it's a common problem. It's not a reason to throw away a car.
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When I bought my 94 SE, I paid 1800 for it, and then immediately paid 350 to have a broken exhaust manifold stud fixed.
KBB on my truck is around 2500. Since then I've put 800 in tires on it, and a new windshield at 380 because of rust. I put a stereo and speakers in it for about 250...it's due for an exhaust system overhaul....and guess what? I'm handing this one down to my son in a few years when he starts driving, and I couldn't be happier.
I'd never batt an eye. It's a good vehicle and it's staying in my family and will remain relevant. I bought it with 188,000 miles, it now has 210,000 and has take us camping, trekking, driving across Texas, offroading...my son learned to drive in it offroad...it's a part of us.
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Agree with everything above on DIY, you can get through it, ask a friend or two for help..but the: Tires / Shocks struts / Spark plugs, wires , cap and rotor, brakes, alignment,
It's all spec'd wear and tear items, those don't define the vehicle itself, it's no surprise those parts are bad...having 3 feet of body cancer eating up the side or floorboards...that's a different story all together, which I just threw in for comparison...
Your truck is young, it just needs to be freshened up a bit. If you freshen it up to sell it, A. That's a nice vehicle now that someone else gets to enjoy but they're not going to pay $7 or 8 Grand for it so you can get your repair cost back out of it plus whatever the vehicle is worth to begin with. B. Say that you do spend 2,000 refreshing your truck just for yourself, and not for sale, tell me any other time that you can spend a mere 2Gs on any other vehicle that you found for sale online or in a lot with some weirdo in a sport jacket chasing you around the lot that you have to register, insure and license, all the bs hoops you jump through when you get a new used car, you have to go through it, learn about it, find all the bugs, crack pipes and sticky pennies and issues and then spend MORE money on it to fix the small repairs, tires, minor issues, get it the way you like it...by the time you're done, you've probably spent again what you paid for the vehicle initially.
You wouldn't have to go through all that again and you'd know exactly where your truck stands, what it's issues are, you already know it, it's a familiar old friend.
If you don't put any money into it, and just decide to stick a fork in it, you will not get your asking price, no one will give you 3 grand for that truck when they know they're going to repair it, they'll offer you half that and you'll let it go for less than 2 grand because you don't think you're going to get any better offers and then you have to sit with the idea that you just released a vehicle with a KBB value of over 4,000 for less than 2. That is a stink that's hard to wash off.
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2002 Gen Sentra SE-R / Spec V
Why did they move away from this? That really pisses me off...Nissan had a good thing going here and they had to mess with it. I would kill to have one of these in my stable.
Even the SE-R non Spec-V model, this was a great looking, well engineered sporty car...
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I think for smart, innovative and stylish cars that are actually competing with Japanese automakers, the Ford Focus and Fusion (1st gen both) will be classics, and I also third the GT-R as well. Also the Mazda Miata even though it's built on a 25 year old platform, it was a well designed platform from the ground up, specifically for that car with a well balanced FR design in planning, and is still being built today. That chassis wasn't used on any other vehicle, none of the Volkswagens / Audi's can say that, nor can even the mighty 3000 GT from years back which was built on a Diamante platform.
I almost forgot about the two last generations of Corvette. My favorite Vette ever, of all time, with the most beautiful and elegant lines, the Z06..I love love love this car, and the new Stingray. Infact, here lately there's been a very aggressive resurgence of fantastic muscle cars from The Big 3 at a time geo-politically that couldn't be any more diametrically opposed to loud, brash gas guzzling AMERICAN muscle cars. The Chargers, Challengers, Mustangs and Camaros of this current generation are beautiful, extremely powerful and smart with the best fuel economies ever achieved from this class. The Charger has finally kicked the Interceptor Crown Vic off the Police pursuit pedestal. Not to mention the Ford Edge as well.
When I started writing this I didn't know it was going to become a soliloquy on how we've got stables and stables full of great cars being made that could all become classics or remain relevant in one way or another at a more strange time in our history with the price of oil and the Left's obsession with making us drive around in bubble cars that no one wants.
Apologies for breaking the rules...hard to keep the lid on this one..
My new muffler
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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I'm so far really happy with my rinky dink little auto parts store muffler and my truck has really good power,I can't tell you if it's been improved but I do enjoy putting my foot I it and it does get up pretty good. I know my truck began life in Washington state and then some how made it to TX and I don't think either cat uses an O2 sensor. I need to get to the bottom of this, guess I need to send some pics.